Tag Archives: Martinique

Martinique Coastal Drive

Just Back from Martinique

 

The flight from Miami provided a chance to replay fond memories of Martinique. In my early 20s, I hopped a sailboat to the island and spent three idyllic weeks sleeping under the stars, swimming on remote beaches and dining on local fruits and crispy baguettes hot from the oven of a village bakery. From the scenery to the culture to the food, this most French of Caribbean islands left quite an impression. In the years since, my work for scuba diving magazines took me all across the Caribbean, but never again to Martinique. Now, it was time to conjure my very limited command of the French language, and see what changes the years had brought to the island.

Banana Trees Martinique

Habitation Clement rum distillery and grounds include botanical gardens, an art museum, aging rooms and rum tasting room which is the finale to any rum tour. Photo: Paul W. Locke

An Emerging Market

Martinique has long remained off the North American tourism radar. Recently, however, lower airfares and new direct flights from North America promise to open the market. That said, all of the other airliners docked at Aimé Césaire International Airport when we arrived bore the markings of European carriers. Curbside, we were immediately pegged as Americans by a crowd of taxi drivers with little to no command of English. No problem, they quickly waved over one of their bi-lingual contemporaries, and we were soon ushered into a gleaming new Mercedes taxi and on our way to the resort district of Trois-Ilets and Pointe du Bout.

The route, which I remember as a narrow two-lane, had evolved into a divided highway, flanked by car dealerships and big-box stores. Five miles later, we turned onto a secondary road, and the scenery reverted to cane fields and cottages. What stayed with us was the traffic. “We have 400,000 people on the island and more than 240,000 cars,” our taxi driver explained. As I later confirmed, he was not joking. A high standard of living, combined with sparse options for public transportation, has turned Martinique into an island of drivers.

Fort De France Martinique

Dusk in Fort-de-France seen from the waterfront. The city is popular for gold jewelry shops, madras fabrics and the covered market where vendors offer local handicrafts, tropical produce and homegrown elixirs. Photo: Shutterstock

To the Point

Located across the bay from the capital city of Fort-de-France, the peninsula of Pointe du Bout is home to a collection of waterfront hotels dating from the 1980s. A more recent addition is the Creole Village, with its themed Colonial architecture. The shops and eateries of the village were originally created as a day-trip destination for cruise ship passengers, who disembark at Fort-de-France, and make a 15-minute ferry ride across the bay. But compared to most other islands in the Eastern Caribbean, cruise traffic to Martinique is light, and we saw few ship-bound tourists afoot. Instead, the ice cream shops and cafes of the village have become a favorite with local teens and the island’s see-and-be-seen 20-somethings.

A quarter-mile to the south of Pointe du Bout, the scene turns more local and less scripted. Here, fishmongers and coconut water vendors man makeshift stalls along the sands of Anse Mitan beach, small fishing boats bob at anchor, and the menus posted outside small beachfront restaurants are printed only in French. We checked in to a vintage two-star hotel near the town dock, and it was beginning to feel more like the island of my memories.

Trois llets Pointe Martinique

Pointe du Bout in Trois-Ilets is connected to Fort-de-France by ferry service. The marina serves as home base for yachties and Creole Village offers a handful of bars, eateries and shops. Photo: Walt Stearns

Life Aquatic

The marina at Pointe du Bout is the starting point for a number of aquatic adventures. We sampled one of the favorites by boarding a large sailing catamaran for a day sail up the coast. The schedule included time to watch wild dolphins frolic, stops to snorkel, and shore leave at the historic waterfront of Saint-Pierre. What set this voyage apart from similar boat trips offered on other Caribbean islands was lunch. I was expecting the usual chips and sandwiches served up by the deckhands. But, not in Martinique. Our boat crew included a dedicated chef, and after the crew set tables with cutlery, wine glasses and flowers, the appetizers began to appear and the reds and whites began to flow. Next came the salad course, and then the main course cooked fresh to order, a cheese platter, and finally, a flambé for dessert, with coffee to finish.

Sailing Martinique

Exploring the north coast from Pointe de Bout to Saint-Pierre via catamaran on a sailing trip with Kata Mambo is a pleasant way to see the island. Photo: Pierce Hoover

Beyond Downtown

Island tours are an almost obligatory part of any Caribbean vacation, and Martinique would be no different. Our full-day van trip to the island’s north began with a stop in the capital city of Fort-de-France. Anyone expecting a quaint, historic waterfront would be disappointed to discover that the capital city is a bustling, traffic-filled, metropolitan hub. The main interests include the historic buildings of Cathédrale Saint-Louis de Fort-de-France and Bibliothèque Schoelcher and the seaside Fort Saint-Louis.

The tour took a turn for the better as we headed north along the coast, and made a stop at the historic Neisson distillery. Martinique is world-famous for its rums, which have been awarded the designation of “Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée”, much like fine French wines. The highlight of the day was time spent in the rainforests of the island’s mountainous interior, where waterfalls and rushing streams cascade through rugged valleys.

Neisson Rhum Martinique

Family-run Neisson Rhum distillery has been a working facility since its inception in 1932. After a guided tour through the distillery visitors are keen to sample the rum tasting finale. Photo: Christel Coita/Martinique Promotion Bureau

Southern Charms

Martinique’s true charms were not revealed until we turned our attention to the south. The Caribbean coastline between Pointe du Bout and the village of Sainte-Anne is punctuated by small bays, hidden coves and quiet beaches. Many of these coastal indentions show traditional fishing villages, along with a limited number of boutique beach resorts. These quiet oceanfront havens are best discovered by simply following the secondary roads that hug coastal bluffs and descend into sheltering valleys. By far, my favorite was the villages of Les Anses d’Arlet, which include four small communities tucked into a succession of coves connected by a steep, winding coastal road. Particularly charming is the southernmost settlement of Anse d’Arlet Bourg, which seems pleasantly, stuck in an earlier century. Here, local children swim from a community pier, and the quiet beach seems beyond the range of tour buses.

Grande Anse Des Salines Martinique

The southern region of Martinique is known for its picturesque bays and white sand beaches. Grande Anse des Salines in Sainte-Anne is one of the most popular spots. Photo: Luc Olivier/Martinique Promotion Bureau

Windward Green

Yet another aspect of Martinique was revealed on a subsequent drive over the central hills to the island’s windward coast. Here, the island’s agricultural heritage lives on in sprawling fields of sugarcane and banana plantations. Trade winds are a constant and welcome companion, mitigating the warmth of the tropical sun, and flowing onto the verandahs and chambers of the intimate guesthouses that are tucked away on hillsides overlooking farms and distant ocean views. On my next visit to Martinique — and there will be a next — the only real decision will be between hiring a private hillside home on the outskirts of Anse d’Arlet, or reserving a room at a small guest house on the windward coast. Or, if time permits, perhaps both.

Martinique Anses dArlets

Anses d’Arlets has maintained its traditional calm and tranquil lifestyle over the years. Local kids jump from the pier, swimmers shadow the coastline and diners visit seaside eateries. Photo: Antoine Omere/Martinique Promotion Bureau

 

St. Lucia Fond Doux Holiday Plantation

Caribbean Plantation Inns

 

If chrome-and-glass towers aren’t your idea of a vacation resort, you’ll be pleased to know that there are a select number of small hotels in the Caribbean that evoke the charms of the Colonial Era. Three of the most iconic plantation inns in the Caribbean are found on the green islands of Martinique and St. Lucia. These properties, once working plantations, remain true to their agricultural roots, while also paying homage to the elegance of days gone by.

Fond Doux Holiday Plantation, St. Lucia

This early French colonial estate pays homage to its history, as the property continues to grow cacao much as it did in the eighteenth century. Today the estate is the pride of husband and wife team Lyton and Eroline Lamontagne, who transformed the estate into a place of integrity and national pride, while also maintaining the natural environment. What first began as a heritage site for day visitors has evolved into an eco–friendly tropical resort with a nod to traditional architecture and workmanship. The plantation includes a collection of 15 one and two-bedroom cottages, with amenities such as private plunge pools, canopy beds, outdoor showers and private decks or terraces. The property has a spa that uses all natural organically grown ingredients in the treatments, a gift shop and two onsite restaurants.

St. Lucia Fond Doux Holiday

The triple cascade pool at Fond Doux Holiday Plantation sits within an enveloping grove of palms and tropical greenery, creating a serene environment for relaxation. Photo: Fond Doux Plantation

Set within the crater of an extinct volcano that is part of the Soufriere caldera, Fond Doux’s 135-acre grounds are accented with flowering trees, fruit trees and walking trails. This four-mile area surrounding the plantation offers guests access to active sulphur springs and the towering peaks of the Pitons, which are St. Lucia’s fame. The town and market of Soufriere is nearby, as are beaches, zip lining or hiking the Pitons. Fond Doux translates to “sweet valley” and the sweetness of chocolate fills the air during harvest time. Guests are invited to join in the process of harvesting, drying, and rolling cacao beans, leading to the final production of chocolate bars made on property. For its attention to the environment, Fond Doux planation has been certified by Green Globe International for a number of years, and continually strives to increase greener operations.

St. Lucia Fond Doux Holiday Plantation

Guest cottages at Fond Doux Holiday Plantation are handcrafted by Caribbean artisans, and furnished with an authentic and eclectic mix of period furnishings and artwork. Photo: Fond Doux Plantation

Le Domaine Saint Aubin, Martinique

Set on a hilltop near Trinity Bay on Martinique’s bucolic east coast, Le Domaine Saint Aubin is a 19th century Creole manor house set on the site of a former sugar plantation. While much of the original estate was sold to other farming families in years past, the mansion is still surrounded by farmland. Current owners Joëlle & Laurent Rosemain have restored the property to its Colonial Era roots, and now offer 30 unique guest accommodations divided between the main house, a conversion of the original stables, and a collection of cottages built in the style of the original manor. All rooms are decorated with 19th century Louisianan mahogany furnishings, and fitted with accents pieces that bring back the elegance of the time.

Martinique La Domaine

Before the current owners of Le Domaine Saint Aubin restored the manor house to its original splendor, it had fallen into disrepair and gained a reputation as a haunted house. Photo: Domaine Saint Aubin

Le Domaine’s park-like property encompasses a French garden, open terraces and a pool with views of the sea. The long grass lawn is flanked by groves of mango, banana, and avocado, which add to the chef’s pantry, while beds of anthuriums and heliconias are incorporated into flora arrays that brighten guest rooms. The onsite restaurant is elegantly furnished with mahogany period antiques and offers breakfast and an exceptional, fixed-price dinner to both hotel guests and visitors. Adjacent to the dining room is a similarly decorated music room that becomes the resort’s social center. While somewhat remote and quiet, the manor is close to the Banana Museum and Saint James Rum Museum.

Dining Room La Domaine Martinique

The dining room at Le Domaine Saint Aubin showcases antique mahogany furnishings. Menus feature both classic French cuisines, and dishes influenced by local Creole traditions. Photo: Domaine Saint Aubin

Balenbouche Estate, St. Lucia

This family-owned property is a step back in time, and an immersion into a lush laid-back lifestyle of St. Lucia. Balenbouche Estate is a colonial sugar plantation and has been under the watchful eye of the Lawaetz family for three generations. Its members strive to preserve the authenticity of the estate, and share its history with guests. The 60-acre grounds include a historic sugar mill, a 180-year old colonial plantation house and five cottages where guest come to stay. The grounds surrounding the estate’s cottages and great house are covered in fruit orchards, flower gardens as well as an organic farm. It provides an ideal location for weddings, retreats and workshops. There are several secluded black sand beaches within a short walk, some of which are suitable for swimming on calm days.

St. Lucia Balenbouche Estate Frangipani

The Frangipani guesthouse at Balenbouche Estate was constructed with 100-year-old wood from two houses in the nearby community of Fond St. Jacques. Photo: Balenbouche Estate

The five cottages, each unique and designed to blend with the natural surroundings, are dressed in gingerbread fretwork, wood- carved furniture and quaint decks and porches framed with flowering plants. Each cottage is named after local flora like Almond, Callabash, Nanuan and Waterlily and Banyan. Rooms are cooled by St. Lucian breezes and celling fans. Larger cottages offer guests the option to prepare their own meals, while breakfast is served daily. Dinner is served once or twice a week in the small restaurant that seats just 24. The cuisine is a blend of Asian and Creole flavors, incorporating fresh, plant-based dishes, organic produce and local seafood.

St. Lucia Balenbouche Estate Dining

Balenbouche Estate serves dinner twice a weekly by reservation. Meals are a blend of St Lucian/Creole, Asian and International cuisines, made with local and organic ingredients. Photo: Balenbouche Estate

Hiking Saba

Highest Hikes in the Caribbean

 

For some, it’s enough to admire a cloud shrouded Caribbean peak from the comfort of a beach chair. But for those up for a challenge, a day hike to the high point of the island can make for a life list adventure. There are a number of peaks in the region that are worthy of being called mountains, some soaring a mile or more above the ocean below. Here are five of the best climbs in the Caribbean.

Guadeloupe, La Soufrière

Guadeloupe’s Basse-Terre island is a land of rainforest-clad slopes, waterfalls, bubbling hot springs and remote forest glens that are home to more than 270 species of birds. Rising above it all is the imposing silhouette of La Soufrière Volcano, which reaches a height of 4,800 feet above the Caribbean. This semi-active volcano last erupted in 1976, and has been simmering away quietly ever since. Reaching the summit is no stroll in the park, but it’s also not as difficult as one might imagine. A road leads up the slope to a parking area set on the flanks of the volcano at an elevation of 3,100 feet. From this starting point, it takes most hikers a bit less than two hours to climb the remaining 1,700 feet to the top. The way up begins as a footpath, but turns into more of a scramble near the summit. Along the way, rainforest slopes turn to stunted groves, then lava fields where underground vents known as fumaroles release sulphur-laded steam. Depending on the day, the peak may be shrouded in clouds, or provide panoramic island views. In either case, the most fascinating sight is a look into the alien-like landscape of the inner crater, where a wide crevice known as Hells Gate releases clouds of smoke and steam.

Guadeloupe Hiking

A narrow road leads half way to the summit of Guadeloupe’s La Soufrière Volcano. From there, it takes hikers about two hours to make their way to the top on a trail that winds it’s way around the slope. Photo: Guadeloupe Islands Tourist Board

Dominican Republic, Pico Duarte

Reaching the highest peak in the Caribbean isn’t something you can do in a day. But if you have two or three days to spare, an ascent of Pico Duarte is a life-list experience. Climbs usually begin in the foothills of the Armando Bermúdez National Park, and follow a 15-mile route along the northern slope of the mountain. Hikers are required to hire the services of a local guide, who uses pack mules to carry food and camping gear. Day one of the trek involves a steady but manageable climb from an elevation of 4,000 feet to a campsite at 8,000 feet. Along the way, walkers follow flowing streams, and pass through three climates zones. Day two is devoted to ascending the final 2,000 feet to arrive at the summit, which is nearly two miles above sea level. Some ambitious walkers will make the entire return trip on this same day, while others extend the excursion with a second night of camping, and more time at the top.

Dominican Republic Pico Duarte Hike

A view from the summit of Pico Duarte, which is the highest mountain in the Dominican Republic, and the entire Caribbean. Photo: Dominican Republic Ministry of Tourism

Saba, Mount Scenery

If you want to reach the highest point in the Kingdom of the Netherlands, don’t book a flight for Amsterdam. Instead, take the puddle jumper from St. Martin to the small island of Saba, which remains a special municipality of the Kingdom. Book a room at one of the small guest houses that perch midway up the slopes of the extinct volcano that forms the island, and lace up your hiking shoes for a workout that includes more than 1,000 hand- made stairs as part of the trail that climbs to the 2,855-foot summit of Mount Scenery. Plan on an hour and a half for the trip up, which will leave time along the way to take in the unique flora of the elfin cloud forest, where centuries-old mountain mahogany trees are smothered in orchids and bromeliads. Plan to start your ascent by mid morning to arrive by noon, which is often the time when clouds part to provide the best views of island and ocean.

Saba Mountain Scenery

The higher elevations of Saba’s Mount Scenery are home to one of the Caribbean’s only cloud forests. Here mahogany trees and giant ferns thrive in the mist-shrouded slopes. Photo: Kai Wulf/Flickr

Martinique, Mount Pelée

The Caribbean’s most notorious volcano took out an entire town when it belched forth a cloud of deadly gas in 1902. Today, Mount Pelée is a slumbering giant, and tropical foliage has regrown to mask the fields of volcanic ash that once clad the side of this 4,400-foot peak. Hikers have several choices when ascending the cone. The easiest is the Grande Savane trail, which is a two-mile route that begins at mid-mountain on the sunny western slope and entails a 1,800-foot climb. Also popular is the Ajoupa Bouillion hike, which is a seven mile round trip that winds up at the eastern side of the volcano, providing climbers with cooling trade winds and a better chance of clear weather which begins north of Morne-Rouge. A volcano museum near the start of this route in the town showcases artifacts and models of volcanic events. Most challenging is the trail from Grand Riviere, which starts at sea level and makes a five-mile ascent on the northern face. All three trails converge near the top, where it is possible to descend into the inner caldera, which is covered in thickets of giant ferns.

Martinique Mount Pelee

On the northern end of Martinique, Mount Pelée dominates the island’s landscape. Trees have regrown on slopes that were covered in ash and lava by the eruption of 1902. Photo: Luc Olivier/Martinique Promotion Bureau

St. Kitts, Mount Liamuiga

The interior hills and mountains of St. Kitts lie within a protected nature preserve. This provides numerous hiking opportunities on wooded slopes, and the island’s signature route is a climb up Mount Liamuiga. The route is just two and a half miles long, during which you will climb from a starting point at 2,000 feet above sea level to a ridge rising to an elevation of 3,800 feet. But its not the distance or the elevation gain that makes this a somewhat challenging trek, it’s the terrain. Hikers follow a narrow path through a dense rainforest, making their way over roots, rocks and fallen logs as they ascend. On arrival at the rim of this long extinct volcano, the reward is a view of the inner crater, which is appropriately named the Giant’s Salad Bowl. The sides of this thousand-foot-deep, mile-wide formation are clade in lush jungle growth, while the center contains a shallow freshwater lake surrounded by steaming sulphur vents.

St. Kitts Mount Liamuiga

Mount Liamuiga is a long extinct volcano on the island of St. Kitts. It’s inner crater measures more than a mile across and 1,000 feet deep, and its slopes are now covered in rainforest foliage. Photo: St. Kitts Tourism Authority

Martinique Domaine Saint Aubin

Caribbean Snapshots: Le Domaine Saint Aubin, Martinique

 

On the northeast coast of Martinique, the 19th century Creole plantation house known as Le Domaine Saint Aubin now welcomes guests, who can immerse themselves in the ambiance of a bygone era. Inside, antique mahogany furnishings set a tone of refined elegance. Built in Louisiana- style, the manor house reflects the design with expansive terraces, exposed beams and wooden columns. Lushly landscaped grounds hold groves of mango, banana and avocado trees that thrive in the rich volcanic soil.

The property perches on a hillside overlooking the Atlantic Ocean, were it is caressed by eastern trade winds. To the west, the landscape is overshadowed by the towering form of Mount Pelee, and surrounded by farmlands that yield a bounty of fresh foods for inclusion in the estate’s kitchen.

Martinique

Caribbean Snapshots: Diamond Rock, Martinique

 

When visitors to Martinique admire the sunset from Pointe Diamante, they might be surprised to know that the small island on the western horizon was once part of the Royal Navy. During the Napoleonic wars, British commander Samuel Hood realized that the volcanic spire known as Diamond Rock occupied a strategic position between the islands of Martinique and St. Lucia. In January of 1804, he sent crews to scale the islands rugged heights.

Fortifications were built, cannons were hauled up the cliffs by rope, and the rock was commissioned as HMS Diamond Rock, with the designation of a sloop of war. For the next 18 months, the guns mounted atop the rock harassed French vessels, forcing them to steer wide of the coast of Martinique, and away from the harbor at Fort-de-France. The French navy eventually mounted an attack. The rock withstood two weeks of withering cannon fire, but short on food and water, the British sailors lowered the flag on their ship that couldn’t be sunk.

Today, uninhibited Diamond Rock provides refuge for sea birds and a number of rare land animals. But naval traditions run deep, and to this day, whenever a British warship passes the rock, they salute their “stone frigate.”

Martinique llet Madame

Caribbean Snapshots: Ilet Madame, Martinique

 

There’s no better way to go off the grid than spending a day exploring uninhabited islands. On the east coast of Martinique, finding your own little offshore paradise is as easy as traveling to the fishing village of Le Robert. At the head of the township’s namesake bay lies a collection of sandbars, reefs and 10 small islands that form an aquatic playground for sailors, paddlers and swimmers. One of the largest and most favored of this group is Islet Madame. Yachtsmen from around the island of Martinique are lured to the calm anchorage that lies just off this small, green spit of land, while day visitors make their way over in private launches from the township of Le Robert.

The island is a protected refuge ringed by white sand beaches and surrounded by translucent waters where coral reefs create calm lagoons. Getting there is easy, as a number of tour operators offer sailing and powerboat excursions to the islands. A few adventurous locals even wade and swim a quarter mile over from Pointe La Rose.

Once there visitors find spectacular snorkeling, kayaking and swimming. On shore, there are paths to follow through the foliage, plenty of shaded areas and some local wooden huts to provide shelter from the elements. The island is prized for its collection of native tree species and protected animals, including iguanas, lizards, birds, hummingbirds and turtles. The scene is low-key though the week, while weekends may bring local boaters, who gather for a raft-up party at one of the nearby sandbars known as le Fonds Blanc. Visitors have described these islands as among the most beautiful in the entire Caribbean. If you are on Martinique, it’s a destination that shouldn’t be missed.

Martinique Mount Pelee

Island Escapes: Hiking Martinique’s Mount Pelée

 

There’s a slumbering giant on the island of Martinique, and you can climb its shoulders. It’s been nearly a century since Mount Pelee erupted in volcanic fury, covering the city of St. Pierre in a cloud of toxic ash that killed more than 30,000. Things are much quieter these days save for a few historic ruins. Little evidence of this tragedy remains, and hiking the green slopes of the volcano is a popular activity.

Rising to nearly 4,600 feet above sea level, Mount Pelée is one of the highest peaks in the Antilles. There are several paths that lead to the summit, the most popular being the trail along the Aileron Ridge. This route begins at the village of Le Morne-Rouge on the eastern side of the volcano, and follows its namesake ridge upward to circumnavigate the crater rim, drop into the fern forest of the inner caldera, then summit the steep inner cone. The upper slopes of Mount Pelée are frequently covered in clouds, but even on days when there are no grand panoramic views of island and ocean, the scenery is worth the climb.

Mt Pelee Martinique

From a vantage point near the crest of the Mount Pelée crater rim, a hiker takes in a view of the Aileron Ridge. The climb from sea level is challenging but achievable. Photo: Richard Christophe/iStock

For a sunnier, shorter and steeper path to the top, hikers can approach from the west on the Grande Savane trail. Adventurous trekkers seeking the path less trodden will sometimes opt for a third route that follows a trail known as the Morne Macouba up the northern face of the volcano.

All three trails join near the summit. The summit often takes three to four hours, so plan for a full day to get there and back. Each trail includes some steep and at times muddy terrain, making hiking boots the best choice for footwear. It’s advisable to carry plenty of water and snacks, plus exposure protection for both rain and shine. Depending on Pelée’s mood, you could be hiking in the mist or under the hot Caribbean sun. It’s possible to make the climb on your own, but many hikers sign up for a guided trek, which can be arranged though a number of tour operators and hotel desks.

Martinique Pointe du Bout Bar

Caribbean Beach Bars: Coco Bar, Point de Bout, Martinique

 

It’s the next best thing to going to sea. Perched on pilings in a quiet cove on the western edge of Martinique’s Pointe de Bout resort area, the iconic Coco Bar invites beach goers to abandon their chaise lounges in favor of a shaded over- water barstool. In addition to serving up a range of libations—many based on various combinations of local fruit juices and rums—the bar offers a tasty array of light fare with a French flair.

Midday, the atmosphere remains low key, but as evening approaches, this thatched-roof dock becomes one of the best places on the island to toast the sunset. And after that first indulgence, it’s easy to linger on into the twilight, savoring the refreshing ocean breezes and panoramic views as the lights of Fort-de-France twinkle in the distance.

Grand Cayman Papagallo

Best Caribbean Islands for Fine Dining

 

There was a time when a Caribbean restaurant that provided matching forks was considered to be putting on airs. No more. Today, dozens of celebrated dining rooms across the region plate superb offerings that fully justify upscale cutlery and fine china. Celebrity chefs have opened signature eateries gone island style, and a new wave of homegrown talent adds local flair to established traditions. One can find a respectable range of fine dining options on nearly every island, but some stand above the rest in terms of the plentitude of choices and the overall experience.

Grand Cayman

Don’t let the fast food franchises that have popped up along West Bay Road fool you. An island that was once a wasteland for fine dining enthusiasts has emphatically upped its game and become a food-first destination. There are culinary all-stars. Eric Ripert’s Blue at the Ritz-Carlton showcases locally caught seafood, complemented by an 800-label wine list. Michael Schwartz’s Genuine Food & Drink offers a casually elegant indoor/outdoor setting where the emphasis is on the chef’s signature New American cuisine. And the list of chefs and supporting casts keeps getting stronger. The lineup at the Camana Bay complex alone is enough to justify the airfare: Cindy Hutson’s Ortanique serves up highly personal recipes in a South Beach setting, and Mizu is a tour of the greatest hits of Asian cuisine. Across the island Kaibo at Rum Point has high-end cuisine and a world-class rum bar. And these venues just scratch the surface of the island’s vibrant restaurant scene.

Cayman Islands Food, Cayman Cookout Day, Best Caribbean Islands for Fine Dining

A tempting morsel plated during the annual Cayman Cookout. Hosted each January at the Ritz-Carlton Grand Cayman, this event celebrates the island’s culinary talents. Photo: David Wolfe/Cayman Islands Department of Tourism

St. Martin

It’s French and it attracts a lot of people with money—enough said? Well, not quite enough. St. Martin has earned a reputation as the fine dining capital of the Caribbean, and the caliber of culinary achievement displayed along Grand Case beach is both varied and stellar. L’Effet Mer weighs in with its trilogy of crab (crab tartar, crab cake and crab roll), sweet pepper gazpacho and duck liver; Le Pressoir impresses with frog legs Provençale, crispy snails and a tasting plate of four variations of foie gras; Mario’s Bistro is an institution, famous for its jumbo scallops with crab mashed potatoes and shrimp penne flambéed with bourbon. At L’Estaminet, Chef Ina Urfalino puts a personal twist on French culinary traditions with dishes such as duck breast au cacao, and mahimahi marinated in Guyanese masala. While the majority of cuisines favor French and French fusion, there are also flavors of Asia, Italy and the Caribbean that can be savored at more than 400 restaurants across the island.

Martinique

While St. Martin is thoroughly French, Martinique—also an overseas department of the Republic—mixes it up. Even in its colonial days, Martinique was the more exotic creole sister of the Windwards, the African identity of its population complemented but never subverted by European customs. So while there’s plenty of excellent French cuisine to be had at traditional favorites such as Fort-de-France’s La Cave a Vins, there’s also a healthy serving of creole to go with it. Delices Caraibes serves up shrimp in coconut milk; Metis takes what the sea offers and gives it a twist with dishes such as snapper with basil or shrimp flambéed with rum. On the windward side, La Domaine Saint Aubin is a French- style “hotel du charme,” a 19th-century manor house with an enthusiastic and accomplished chef who takes full advantage of local ingredients, which are transformed into memorably orchestrated prix fixe dinners.

Santo Domingo Plaza, Dominican Republic

Caribbean Islands with a European Vibe

 

Poking around a seaside village in Provence, loitering in a creperie with the Mediterranean stretching away just outside the window, browsing boutiques filled with small things that are useless—but beautiful—to be brought home. There are places in the Caribbean that evoke that same languorous vibe and have the charm and the spirit of Europe. While you won’t mistake Martinique for the Cote d’Azur or Santo Domingo for Seville, they do offer experiences—food, atmosphere and accent—that satisfy in ways a trip to the Continent never could. Plus, the beaches are a whole lot better.

Martinique

For those familiar only with the Anglophone Caribbean, Martinique is a revelation. Sure they speak French here—alongside Creole Martiniquais—but it’s the food, the architecture and the atmosphere that give it the sense of being a lost bit of Provence that somehow floated across the pond and fetched up on a reef. The narrow streets of Fort de France wind up from the bay into the hills beyond. The spire of the white cathedral punctuating the skyline; the byways lined with French Creole buildings clad in pastel wood and plaster.

No French town is complete without its fresh market, and Le Grand Marché Couvert (Covered Market) has been the focal point since 1901. Row after row of vendors offer everything from fresh melons to bois bandé—herbal Viagra. Walk a few blocks to the considerably upmarket Rue Victor Hugo, with shops that showcase the latest fashions from Paris and the French Riviera. Make time for lunch at La Cave a Vins; enter through the wine cellar before sitting in the formal dining room or, better yet, the airy atrium lined with sun-splashed trompe l’oeil murals of French vineyards. As in France, food comes first, with wine a close second, and La Cave delivers on both counts. But La Cave is by no means the only eatery that could hold its own in the mother country. Many of the local chefs came here from the Continent or were trained there, and it shows in the minute details lavished on the dishes.

Martinique, Caribbean Islands with a European Vibe

Martinique’s St. Pierre was once known as “the Paris of the Caribbean.” Almost completely destroyed by a volcanic eruption in 1902, the town rebuilt, but never regained its prominence. Photo: iStock

Cross the bay from Fort de France to La Village Creole in Trois-Ilets, a bricked pedestrian promenade lined with shops and cafes. Pick out some handmade jewelry, choose a cafe for dinner and then stay for music and drinks at the Hemingway pub. Just as some of the most delightful parts of France are not in Paris, you have to get away from the tourist hustle of Fort de France to get the full experience. Le Domaine Saint Aubin on the east coast is a perfect model of the gastronomic hotels that dot the French countryside. Run by a husband- and-wife team of chef and hotelier, the hotel is known for both the food and the hospitality; the 19th century plantation house is a Creole confection. Visit La Pagerie, the childhood home of Empress Josephine, and read Napoleon’s racy letters to the love of his life. The few traces that remain of Saint-Pierre—the former capital leveled by an eruption of Mount Pele in 1902—are picturesque, like the ruined forts and abbeys you find on the Continent.

Something you won’t find in France is rhum agricole, which some would argue is the lifeblood of Martinique. Most rums are produced from molasses (sugar cane juice that’s been reduced to syrup); rhum agricole is produced from the juice itself, before it’s been boiled down. You can tour the distilleries—Clément has the old machinery to gawk at and a beautiful 19th century plantation house—and come away with a liter of heaven in a bottle. Though it may lack the flowing fields of lavender, Martinique is a fair proxy for Provence, with the added bonus of palm trees and those incredible volcanic beaches—just the place to grab a bottle of rum, settle into the shade, drink and dream. C’est merveilleux!

Santo Domingo, Dominican Republic

Founded in 1498, less than a decade after Columbus’ first voyage, Santo Domingo is the oldest surviving European city in the Western Hemisphere. Following a hurricane in 1502, the current city was carefully planned on a grid laid down by Nicolás de Ovando, the colonial governor sent from Spain. Ovando placed the city where the left bank of the Ozama River meets the Caribbean Sea, on a small rise that, once lined with fortifications, was easy to defend. While a vast metropolis has grown up around it, inside the walls of the old city, you could be in Seville, the port from which the New World fleets sailed. Narrow streets are crowded by stone buildings, their doors opening immediately onto slender sidewalks. The house of Hernán Cortés, the conqueror of Mexico, is here, along with the oldest Cathedral in the New World, Santa María la Menor. This may—or may not—be the burial place of Christopher Columbus; Seville claims him too and has DNA that strongly suggests at least some of his bones are there.

Stone walls half a millennium old encircled the city and major sections still stand. The Condé Gate on the western edge of the district marks Independence Square, with its fortifications and monuments to the country’s founders. On the southeast corner is Fortaleza Ozama, its brooding, blockish walls a stark reminder of the business of war. At the time they were built, Spain was barely 20 years removed from the reconquest of their country from the African Moors; Ovando himself fought the Moors before being posted to the New World. The walls are medieval: stout, square and devoid of ornament. Ovando’s own house is now a hotel, the original walls exposed, its graceful galleried courtyard a peaceful redoubt for relaxation and soft jazz.

Santa Domingo Plaza, Dominican Republic

The stone buildings that line Santo Domingo’s Plaza de España were once the homes of colonial-era merchants. Today, many have been converted to shops and restaurants. Photo: Laura Garca/iStock

The Alcázar Colón was built by Diego Columbus, Christopher’s son, when he was sent to replace Ovando as governor in 1509. With its pillared galleries, it echoes the Romanesque buildings of Seville and Granada. Inside are masterworks of European painting and tapestry, heavy carved furniture with simple squared lines and a trove of antiques. In front of and behind these iconic Iberian walls, the life of the city goes on as it has for hundreds of years. People relax in the shade of trees across from the cathedral, families come out to slowly stroll and couples walk hand in hand past small shops and corner bodegas. The sights and sounds are Old World, and there’s a taste of Spain in the restaurants if you know where to look. Ironically, Dominicans prefer Italian food and tasteful trattorias abound. At El Meson de la Cava, an elegant restaurant literally inside a cave, tapas are mixed with seafood and the inevitable Italian specialties. A more traditional lineup of tapas is offered at Cantábrico, with plenty of Manchego to go with the jamon, pulpo and chorizo. Fantastico.

Barbados

While the rest of the Antilles flip-flopped between owners in the great colonial chess match of the 17th and 18th centuries, Barbados has been resolutely British since the arrival of the first English colonists in 1672. Stolid, conservative and ultimately very stable, Barbados built its wealth on sugar plantations. Affluent planters constructed expansive homes of coral rock as an enduring monument to their success, and many still stand across the island, timeless capsules preserving proper English domestic architecture. The styles range from 17th century Jacobean— all the rage back home when the earliest plantations were built—to Georgian and Victorian. Only three original Jacobean mansions are left in the Western Hemisphere and two—Drax Hall and St. Nicholas Abbey—are in Barbados. Drax would look right at home on a manor in the Cotswolds.

Barbados Bridgetown

Home to the third oldest political system within the British Commonwealth, Barbados’ historic parliament buildings are prime examples of Gothic architecture. Photo: Flavio Vallenari/iStock

Perhaps reluctant to apply the newfangled style to religious buildings until it had proved itself, Bajan churches are imposing Gothic edifices with that steady, time-tested Anglican attitude. In addition to architecture, iconic British traditions were imported intact. The national sport is cricket, while horse racing at Garrison Savannah—begun in 1845—comes in a close second. A walk down Broad in Bridgetown will remind you of the high street in any middling city in England, with the exception that the prices are all duty-free. For a dive back in time, head up to Bagatelle Great House. The gracious plantation manor was built in 1645, with a formal garden and large covered porches. Arrive in the afternoon at Chatters Tea Room for high tea, complete with fine china, cucumber sandwiches and a proper cuppa. Cheerio, then.

St. Barts

If you took the French Riviera and dropped it into the tropics—wait, they already did. It’s called St. Barthélemy. Beyond chic, St. Barts was the home away from home for Caribbean crooner Jimmy Buffet, and celebrities from both sides of the pond are seen here regularly. In part, it’s the style. The fact that St. Barts is also very expensive doesn’t hurt the exclusivity factor either. It’s a remarkable transformation for a place that didn’t have electricity until the 1960s. That came courtesy of the mayor, a Dutchman who landed his plane on a grassy field—there was no airport—and ended up buying a rocky promontory on Baie St. Jean. He built a little hideaway hotel and that hotel, Eden Rock, became a magnet for glitterati.

St Barts Gustavia

In the height of the season, St. Bart’s Gustavia Harbor fills with a collection of mega-yachts, giving the island one more thing in common with the French Riviera. Photo: Christian Wheatley/iStock

Across the island at Gustavia, the streets scramble up a steep hillside; small cafes with patisserie selections worthy of a Paris suburb rub elbows with elegant boutiques. While the chicness of it all is very Riviera, it’s the attitude that seals the deal: food in the Continental fashion prepped with a fanatical attention to detail and, of course, the perfect wine. There are 150 bottles in the cellar at the Eden Roc, including a $4,200 bottle of Petrus and a $7,500 Jeroboam by Cristal. Your cheeseburger in paradise will be served with brie rather than cheddar, and at $45 you hope it will be personally grilled by superstar chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten, who operates the hotel’s restaurants. Tres bon!

Curacao

Viewed from Sint Annabai (St. Anna’s Bay), the tall, narrow buildings of Willemstad’s historic Punda district could be canal houses in Amsterdam, save for their bright Easter-egg exteriors. Here as at home, the Dutch taxed homeowners by width rather than square footage, creating domino-like rows of tall, skinny houses with distinctive steeply pitched roofs and Dutch gable ends. Crossing the swinging Queen Emma pontoon bridge brings you down into the streets of Punda, where narrow byways are lined with small shops and restaurants. Sit down at a table and all around you may hear native Dutch from the many expats and islanders educated in the Netherlands, or Papiamentu, a Creole dialect of Dutch, Portuguese, Spanish, English and Amerindian. Several thousand makambas (Dutch) live in Curacao, and 40 percent of the island’s tourists are Europeans.

The food is different, too. A collection of edibles gathered from across the 18th century Dutch empire: roti and tandoori from India, rijstaffel (rice table) and bami (stir-fried noodles) from Indonesia and okra and peanuts from Africa. The foodstuffs arrived in the holds of Dutch traders, and once on shore, they evolved and blended. Keshi yena is a delicious concoction of Gouda cheese stuffed with chicken, onions, sliced olives and raisins. The best of these made it back to Amsterdam and are served there today, a gastronomic bond between the motherland and the former colony.

Curacao Arch

In Curacao, the narrow facades and multi-story floor plans of homes along Willemstad’s waterfront are reminiscent of Amsterdam, but the colors are pure Caribbean. Photo: Sara Winter/iStock

Get that grounded historic feeling from a visit to Mikve Israel-Emanuel, the oldest synagogue in the Western Hemisphere. Sephardic Jews from Portugal who came here to find freedom from persecution founded the congregation in 1651, and the synagogue was built in 1732. The floor is covered with sand to remind worshippers of the 40 years Israelites spent wandering in the desert after their escape from Egypt. There are forts as well—Amsterdam, Nassau and Beekenburg—with the expected walls mounted with cannons. The only things missing are bicycles and canal boats—that, and the long, hard winters. Muchu bunita, muchu nechi!