In the Exumas, wildlife encounters can take on some unusual twists
There’s no better way to explore the Bahamian Out Islands known as the Exuma Cays than by boat. This string of small islands, reefs and sandbars stretches some 120 miles through the central Bahamas. Midway down the archipelago is the Staniel Cay Yacht Club, a resort and marina that can serve as a launching point for a unique wildlife encounter. Get your camera ready because the selfies are too funny.
During my visit to Staniel Cay, the staff set us up with a Boston Whaler launch and a waterproof map with directions to where the wild things are: in this case, pigs, nurse sharks and iguanas. You don’t need to whistle, call or brandish tempting foodstuffs to get the wild pigs of Big Major Cay to approach. All you need to do is anchor a boat within swimming range of the beach. The pigs are fast. The six of us on this day trip haven’t even fully removed our lens caps or entered the water before the animals are a couple of yards away. And they’re huge. You don’t have to bend over to rub a hand across their hides—each stands roughly 3 feet tall.
Local lore has it that these pigs, or rather, their pig parents, have been living on this beach since World War II, when enterprising islanders stashed them here for safekeeping. A bacon reserve, if you will. Only, whoever left them here never claimed them post amnesty. Instead, they’ve run, well, hog wild, subsisting on forage and the kindness of picnic-toting tourists. Which explains why they’re not big on personal space. I near one for a picture and it raises its donut-size snout to inspect my face. It bowls into me, making me step back to keep from getting a soaking. Every time I reach down for a pat, it hefts its snout against my palm, presumably sniffing for crumbs. This one definitely thinks I’m holding out.
We’re surrounded by three pigs—one a downy pink, and the others spotted with patches of chocolate brown and black. Their hair is wiry and sparse, like petting a hairbrush. I’m not sure which is more amusing: how physical the pigs are in trying to get to know us, or how unsuccessful my friends are in trying to take selfies with these animals. They have an in-your-face energy, nosing too far into the frame.
And the beach! This is easily one of the most stunning patches of white sand in the Caribbean—the kind the Exumas are known for—and it’s the playground of pigs. From this spot, we motor north to Compass Cay Marina. Under the dock is a school of dozens of nurse sharks. They make me happy; I’ve toted along snorkel gear. It’s unreal to swim among so many sharks in just 12 feet of water.
Before the day ends, the last stop for animal viewing is Bitter Guana Cay. Here, the northern Bahamian rock iguanas appear in packs. They waddle through the sand, hefting big bellies, so clearly they’re doing well. To snap their pictures, we stay low to the ground and approach slowly to avoid spooking them. Unlike with the pigs, these tiny Godzillas make it much harder to score a selfie. So instead, we settle in and simply watch the wildlife watching us.
