Cozumel embodies an unpretentious and laid-back lifestyle just right for sundresses, T- shirts, shorts and flip-flops. You’re never far from a beach bar,where you can savor the sea air under a shaded palapa and wiggle your toes in the sand. Long known for world-class diving and now a busy cruise port, Cozumel has another layer that you’ll discover once you get off the tourist route—powdery sand beaches, treasured nature preserves and a prevailing Mexican allure and friendliness.
1 By the Sea
Take in the scene along the Malecón in San Miguel, the white-washed seaside promenade where lovers walk hand-in-hand and families snap photos under the twin bronze eagle statues that flank the Mexican flag.
2 Go West
Beach clubs and beach bars are ubiquitous on Cozumel. You’ll find the hip and cool, the family-friendly and those that resemble theme parks loaded with water-sports opportunities. The sandiest shores are found on the west-central coast, south of town. There you’ll find everything needed for a day at the beach: food, drink, showers, music, plus shallows for swimming and reefs for snorkeling. Avoid those venues packed with cruisers or time your visit for the latter part of the day when the ships call their passengers to embark. Find a spot on the sand, score a hammock, order a margarita and wait for the sun to set.
3 Birdie, Bogey or Eagle?
A first for Mexico, the Cozumel Country Club is a designated and certified Audubon International Cooperative Sanctuary where careful attention was taken to maintain Cozumel’s natural surroundings. The club’s 18-hole, par-72 course was designed by the Nicklaus Design Group to not only provide spirited play, but also give players a chance to commune with nature between shots. The course is lined by tropical forest, mangroves and marshes, which are home to iguanas, crocodiles, raccoons and more than 100 species of birds.
4 Fiesta Time
Cozumel clings to its Mexican and Mayan roots, and celebrations rival any of those on mainland Mexico. Sure, there’s Carnaval in February, but even dearer to the Mexican spirit is Day of the Dead in November, where altars of flowers, candles and food are set out to remember lost loved ones. Hotel lobbies, restaurants and bars pay homage with displays of skulls and skeletons dressed in brightly-colored attire.
5 Lighthouse View
Make the journey to the pride of Cozumel, the 247-acre Faro Celarin Ecological Reserve at Punta Sur on the southern tip of the island. For a bird’s-eye view of the convergence of east and west coasts, climb the 130 steps of the lighthouse. The reserve’s five ecosystems include a lagoon with crocodiles, a mangrove with egrets and water birds and a pristine stretch of beach fronted by a fish-laden reef.
6 From the Sea
Fresh seafood dominates many menus and fish served Veracruz style with its distinctive mixture of spices and peppers is a local favorite. Direct-from-the-sea ceviche is made from fish, shrimp and conch, and keeping with the authentic Mexican experience expect it served with a basket of hot tortilla chips and a selection of homemade salsas. Local hot spots that have stood the test of time include La Conchita del Caribe, La Choza and El Capi Navegante.
7 Nightly Crowd Control
Even though Cozumel gets its fair share of cruise ships, they are gone by nightfall and that’s when the island reverts to the small, intimate town it really is. Locals come out of hiding; visitors can mingle and relax without being approached to buy a souvenir. Stroll around the plaza of Benito Juarez Park in San Miguel, grab a churro (sugar-dipped fried pastry) from the vendor carts or nab an outside table at one of the cafes and watch the night unfold.
8 The Wild Side
Pack up the jeep and get out of town for a day trip to the east coast beaches. Here, fronted by the elements, you’ll find long stretches of deserted sand perfect for walking, cresting waves where surfers play, and windswept beach bars decorated with driftwood, bottles and buoys that made landfall. Beach bars are off the main drag down sandy roads—just follow the handmade signs. Favorite stops might include Playa Bonita, Punta Chen Rio and Punta Moreno, a prime spot for surfers.
9 Feathered Snowbirds
Cozumel is a haven for the true snowbird—the kind with feathers. It also attracts bird lovers, who will delight in trying to spot the 250 species of birds that live on or spend time on Cozumel. The American flamingo hangs close to Punta Sur and warblers of all colors—black-and-white and yellow-throated—can be spotted in clumps of undisturbed forest. Real finds are the brightly-colored hooded oriole, Yucatan woodpecker and the Cozumel emerald, a tiny elusive hummingbird.
10 Underwater World
Cozumel’s sheltered western shoreline is washed by a constant north-flowing current. This stream of clear oceanic water nurtures a rich overgrowth of corals and sponges on the shallow reefs that flank the coast and on the submerged cliffs that plunge propitiously into the depths just offshore. Divers and snorkelers can hitch a ride, dropping overboard from dive boats, which follow attentively while those below are propelled over fish-laden structures. Fabled sites such as Palancar Reef are must-dos for any diver, and the clear waters also allow snorkelers to imbibe the colors and sensations from a surface vantage point.
