Weekend in Barbados

72 hours of exploring, tasting, and discovering the past and present on the island of Barbados

 

From rum shops and churches to white sand beaches edged in calm seas and rocky headlands with crashing waves, Barbados is a diverse island. Heavily influenced by British culture, which began with the occupation in the 17th century, the island remains more British than any other Caribbean Island. West Indian elements have been woven into the existing culture, and today’s vibrant society showcases music, food, and art, reflecting the rich tapestry of the two distinct cultures. Crediting a multifaceted past, the island is packed with historic sites, monuments, and museums worth investigating. The sweeping interior hillsides and remnants of sugar plantations, along with the craggy coastlines, are the foundations that stage the island’s gardens, nature, and wildlife.

Take a look inside Barbados with this three-day journey and we’ll bet you plan another trip.

Friday Day One

Breakfast of champions, going underground, and the best fish fry in the Caribbean

6 A.M. The Thoroughbreds

Most people find the half-moon-shaped beach at Carlisle Bay a place to chill, enjoy a swim, and grab a bite to eat. Its proximity to Bridgetown makes it easy to join excursions and get in some beach time, all on the same day. When the sun comes up, another set of swimmers and visitors head to the sands; these are the four-legged kind residing in nearby Garrison Savannah. If you arrive early, you can join in and salute the sunrise overlooking Carlisle Bay with these thoroughbreds. Horses from nearby Garrison Savannah Horse Track are led down the street and onto the beach, entering the ocean for their version of water aerobics and some salt water therapy nearly every morning. The groomsmen, trainers, and owners collect their horses; some make the walk, and others come in trailers, but all are eager for the early morning beach time and a dip in the sea. The horses love it, being brushed and bathed in the warm salt water while the adventurous swim out to deeper water with or without their chaperone. The procession begins with sunrise around 6 A.M. and lasts just long enough for a swim, brush down, and a few pics before heading back to the stables. If you missed your early morning coffee, look for the pink PUC sign where Pop Up Coffee sets up a folding table in the sand, selling coffee and tea to the early risers. Hang around long enough after the horses head back to the stables for a fish cutter, a morning sandwich with or without cheese when Cuz’s Fish stand opens up at adjacent Pebbles Beach. The consensus is that “with cheese” is the way to go.

11 A.M. Tunnels and Pools

Fully fueled for the day, the first stop is Harrison’s Cave, a network of limestone caverns and the most visited attraction on the island. It’s a rite of passage for everyone that visits Barbados. Named after the landowner, Thomas Harrison, and first noted back in 1796, the cave sat undisturbed until 1970, when explorations began. Tunnels were carved out, and streams were diverted to explore the underground natural ecosystem. Today, you’ll board the solar- powered tram for the historical background and submerge into the caverns filled with streams, cascading water, and pools that are framed by stalactite and stalagmite formations.

A new addition to the park venue is a zip line running through the tropical gardens and a rum tasting. At the Mt. Gay Rum Lounge & Bar, you’re invited to taste three rums while you learn about the distillery heritage and history of the oldest rum brand in the world, dating back to 1703.

6 P.M. Friday Fish Fry at Oistins

Another tradition that shouldn’t be overlooked is the Friday Fish Fry. Locals and expats head to Oistins, a historic fishing village on the south coast, for the long-lived spirit of partying, dancing, and eating. This small town is the center of the island’s fishing industry. The adjacent fish market is bustling from morning to night as long as the catch is coming in. You’ll get a full-on picture of what’s cooking for the evening at the open-air grills in front of each of the establishments where smoke rises and lights twinkle. Some pride themselves on bringing in their catch, and others buy from their favorite vendor. Each promises to serve up the tastiest. A handful follow the crowds, agreeing if the line is long, the food must be the best. There’s no wrong choice; once you pick your outlet, select from the options of seafood that include wahoo, snapper, flying fish, and Caribbean lobster with Bajan sides of macaroni and cheese, peas and rice, plantains, and coleslaw; there’s also plenty hot sauces to douse on. Grab a cold Banks beer or rum cocktail, find an empty spot on the community picnics tables, and dig in. Lingering for dancing and more beers while shopping the local vendors is worth a couple of hours of exploration. It’s a good place to pick up jewelry, pottery, ceramics, wood carvings, clothing, and paintings-mostly locally made.

Saturday Day Two

Eat breakfast like a local, take in some history, and spend a night on the town

9 A.M. Local Taste and Social Justice

Grab a quick smoothie at Cuppa Café at the Hilton lobby on-the-go coffee shop and start the day out with the ladies of Characters of Town, a sister- operated tour company and colorful hosts of the island. The Callender sisters, dressed in vibrant Creole attire, are a wealth of information, stories, background, politics, and even some local gossip. Tours starting at the Hilton will begin with a history lesson before heading to Bridgetown for a traditional Bajan breakfast of crispy fish cakes.

The Golden Square Freedom Park, the second green space in Bridgetown, is where we share some island history. The two-acre park opened in November 2021 and commemorates the uprising of the planter class encouraged by Clement Payne, who demanded better working and living conditions. After four days of rioting in the streets, reforms were implemented on July 26, 1937. Plagues, walls, and benches feature thought-provoking artwork and offer a place for reflection and relaxation.

11 A.M. The Neighborhood and a History Lesson

The next stop on the tour is the childhood home of superstar Rihanna. A back street located just outside Bridgetown known as Rihanna Drive is where the small green and yellow house sits; two rum shops flank the street, each claiming more drinks with Rihanna than the other. After a peek at the little house, there’s time for a beer and snack at Boo & Beagles Bar before heading off on the tour.

Historical sites and landmarks are stacked up one after the other throughout the island’s interior. Worthy of a stop is Gun Hill Signal Station. The landmark entrance is marked by a seven-foot-tall coral stone lion, carved in 1868 and restored by the Barbados National Trust in 1983. Gun Hill Signal Station was built in 1818 and became the most strategic signal station to spot oncoming invaders between Christ Church and St. Joseph stations. Today’s visitors take in panoramic and peaceful views of the south coast and Bridgetown.

A drive through some of the lushest areas on the island takes you to the next stop at St. John’s Parish Church, where Gothic architecture featuring arched doors and windows showcase the mid-17th century church. Leaving the church, the road is steep and winding with pristine glimpses of the coast until reaching tall cabbage palms and the entrance to Codrington College, the next stop. Founded by visionary sugar planter Christopher Codrington in 1743 it’s the oldest theological college in the Western Hemisphere. It’s time for a quick picnic overlooking the duck pond and a walk through the nature trail before departing.

6 P.M. The Gap

For dinner and bar hopping, we head to St. Lawrence Gap for a stroll up and down the busy streets where bars and restaurants flow out into the sidewalks. Primo Bar & Bistro is the place for dinner and a view. The boardwalk lounge, where tables overlook St. Lawrence Bay, provides an opportunity to share a pizza and a sunset tipple. Or dine inside where tables are arranged for views of the water, and the eclectic menu includes seafood and pasta dishes steeped in a Mediterranean flare. Try the grilled octopus and sweet potato for starters, and finish with a decadent dessert known as “Death by Chocolate.” The Gap is the center of island nightlife, and there are plenty of temptations for a late night.

Sunday Day Three

Beach time, salute to a famous fort, rest and refuel, and take off

8 A.M. Lazy Morning

Final days are best spent chilling. Take in the morning beachside with breakfast at the Lighthouse Terrace at the Hilton, and ask for a table outside overlooking the beach and pool. Breakfast choices include a buffet or a la carte. Then head off to the sand and sea for a last-minute swim, and a dose of Vitamin D. A walk around the corner where the sand juts out will take you to the lifeguard tower, here the lookout point that stretches around the coast is worth a few pics. Mix in a bit of sun and history and check out the fort where massive cannons are still aimed at the sea and stone walls remain intact. Charles Fort, now a UNESCO World Heritage site, is the oldest and largest fort in Barbados, which was constructed in 1650 to ward off invaders and pirates.

11 A.M. Bajan Lunch

Have lunch at Pebbles Beach next door to the Hilton and on the south side of Carlisle Bay. Choose from a handful of vendors selling smokey barbeque ribs and chicken or grilled fish. Pick up your order and take a seat on the wall or find a spot on the sand. On weekends, locals come with chairs, umbrellas, and beach towels to spend the day. A final tasty meal of grilled fish, mac and cheese, beans and rice and coleslaw at Gap Burgers before heading off to the airport is a good send-off.