Tag Archives: Florida Keys

Florida Keys Sunset Kayaking
Florida, Florida Keys, Play, Trip Ideas

Sunset Kayaking in the Florida Keys

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An evening paddle in the Lower Florida Keys promises sensational sunset viewing and an opportunity to get up close with nature. You won’t find a more prime spot than on the tranquil water flowing under the No Name Key bridge, a few strokes from Big Pine Key Adventures’ launch at the Old Wooden Bridge Fish Camp on Big Pine Key. Choose a red, yellow or blue kayak, strap on a vest and push off into the shallow waters on the edge of Boggie Channel. From here, you can go east toward the Atlantic Ocean or west into the Gulf of Mexico. You can also paddle across the channel to No Name Key’s shore for a close up look at the red mangrove’s prop roots and water fowl foraging at dusk.

More experienced kayakers can explore on their own with a self-guided kayak chart that’s provided. Those looking for a tour can join Capt. Bill Keogh, his dog Scupper and fellow kayakers for the sunset paddle. A naturalist guide and professional photographer, Keogh has been paddling these waters for more than two decades. He can answer all your questions about the long-legged egrets and great white herons that frequent the Florida Keys and the majestic ospreys soaring above, as well as the sea grass waving below and the fish flitting through it. And if the sunset tour leaves you eager to travel more of the waterways, Big Pine Kayak Adventures also offers kayak fishing and backcountry tours.

Ma's Fish Camp Islamorada Key Lime Pie, Florida
Eat, Florida, Florida Keys, Key West, Trip Ideas

Best Key Lime Pies in the Florida Keys

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Capturing sunshine in a pan, Key lime pie represents the heart and soul of the Florida Keys. Each slice is a reflection of the pioneering spirit that led settlers to these isolated islands in the 1850s. Fresh milk was scarce, but the indigenous Key limes were plentiful. When condensed milk reached the market in 1856, it became the perfect marriage of ingredients. The acidic lime juice when mixed with egg yolks and condensed milk caused the filling to thicken without baking—a process called souring. The creamy concoction was poured into a pastry crust and topped with a whipped meringue made from sugar and the leftover egg whites. A classic dessert, named the official Florida state pie in 2006, was born.

Variations of the original recipe have emerged over the years from the graham cracker crust to whipped cream topping. Only one rule holds true: Key lime pie must be made with real Key limes. In 1965, Florida State Representative Bernie Papy, Jr. even tried (unsuccessfully) to make it illegal for anyone to advertise Key lime pie not made with Key limes. The unique taste of the Key lime is more tart and aromatic than Persian limes, which have a slight bitter flavor. The juice is yellow, making the filling of any Key lime pie a pale yellow—never green. Want to embark on your own quest to discover the best Key lime pie? These five restaurants always make the shortlist of favorites in the Florida Keys.

Fish House, Key Largo

Key lime pie is the perfect finish to a meal of fresh local seafood. It’s fitting that the creamy dessert at the Fish House has been making mouths water for more than 25 years. José Ornelas has been baking the pies for 20 of those years, providing the delicate touch needed to whip the meringue topping into the perfect peaks and valleys. People driving by on U.S. Highway 1 have been known to pop in for a slice after simply smelling the pies baking in the oven. The Fish House recipe balances equal parts sweet and tart and uses the graham cracker crust, which became more popular than the pastry shell in the 1940s. They bake 100 to 200 pies a week, depending on the season, for both the main restaurant and their sister eatery Encore. You can pick up a bottle of Key lime juice if you want to try and bake your own pie once you get home. They’ll happily give you the recipe.

Mrs. Mac’s Kitchen, Key Largo

You can’t miss the glowing neon sign advertising the award-winning Key lime pie at Mrs. Mac’s Kitchen as you drive down U.S. Highway 1 in Key Largo. Featured on PBS’s Flavors of the Florida Keys and Check Please as well as in Cosmopolitan and Travel + Leisure magazines, their silky pie is more on the sweet side. Perfect for a hot tropical day, they serve a cold version more similar to an ice cream pie in texture. The recipe, in use since 1976, was handed down from the original owner’s mother, who is the namesake of the restaurant. They bake their pies daily, using a graham cracker crust for the base and a fresh whipped cream topping. Hungry patrons savor about 200 slices a day, and the restaurant mails an average 300 pies per year to devotees around the country. Now with a second location, also in Key Largo, Mrs. Mac’s makes it easy to stop for a slice on the way south to Key West and north back to the mainland.

MA’s Fish Camp, Islamorada

At MA’s Fish Camp, Barbara Cockerham bakes Key lime pies daily in small batches. A Keys resident for over 48 years, she remembers the joy of watching her mother baking and aims to invoke that same nostalgia in the diner. She uses the meringue topping in the spirit of tradition, but each slice also comes with a dollop of fresh whipped cream. The meringue is so delicate that the pies have to be kept at eight degrees until sliced up and served on a cold plate. The tart filling is the consistency of a chilled stick of butter and layers nicely with the nutty graham cracker crust. During the high season, Cockerham makes at most 15 pies a day, so make sure you put your orders in early. They’ve been known to run out. MA’s doesn’t ship their pies, so you’ll have to make the trip to taste her delicious creations in person.

Kermit’s Key West Key Lime Shoppe, Key West

The pie at Kermit’s Key Lime Shop in Key West has garnered national attention with spots on Food Network’s America’s Best Sweets and Pie Paradise. Cooked up by Kermit Carpenter, who has been using his grandmother’s recipe for over 25 years, his Key lime pie has a clean, refreshing taste. Carpenter, decked out in his trademark green toque, even showed TV host Al Roker how to make a Key lime pie live on the Today Show. People flock to the Elizabeth Street store to try their specialty: Key lime pie slices dipped in a dark Belgian chocolate and frozen on a stick. Since the chocolate is not too sweet, it provides a nice contrast to the pucker-inducing pie. The store also features more than 125 products made with Key limes from cookies to soaps. Spend some time at the tasting station sampling sauces and jams like Chipotle Key Lime Barbecue Sauce or Key Lime Jalapeno Pepper Jelly.

Blue Heaven, Key West

Meringue lovers will be in, well, heaven at the funky Blue Heaven Restaurant in Key West’s historic Bahama Village. Featured most recently on Travel Channel’s Bizarre Foods with Andrew Zimmern, their mile-high topping is whipped into tall airy peaks and valleys and lightly tanned in the oven. Country crooner Kenny Chesney loves it so much that he flew his grandmother from Tennessee just to have a slice. Since 1994, owner Richard Hatch has based the recipe on his mother’s classic lemon meringue pie. The limes are fresh-squeezed for each pie, and they go through about a case each day. Blue Heaven also wins the contest for best atmosphere. Their private courtyard (once home to Hemingway’s boxing matches) is filled with roaming chickens and lounging cats soaking in the sun. Grab a seat outdoors under the shaded canopy of the gumbo-limbo tree and prepare to be wowed.

Key West Sunset, Florida
Clearwater Beach, Florida, Florida Keys, Key West, Plan, Sanibel Island, Trip Ideas

Great Places to Watch a Florida Sunset

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As the sun sinks toward the sea, the western horizon ignites in glowing hues of orange and pink. Yet another magnificent Florida sunset is underway, bringing awe-inspiring visions no matter where you are in the state. In Key West, watching the sunset from the Mallory Square waterfront remains a popular tradition, drawing residents and visitors alike to witness nature’s nightly magic lantern show. But there are also quieter places nearby such as this strip of sand on aptly-named Sunset Key where one can enjoy the day’s ending with a bit of solitude.

Florida Keys Seaplane
Florida, Florida Keys, Key West, Play, Trip Ideas

Florida Keys Seaplane Adventures

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Once you view the Florida Keys from the window of a seaplane, it’s easy to believe that’s how the beauty of the tropical archipelago is truly meant to be appreciated. Taking in the palm tree-covered islands, the bridges that connect them and the emerald water that surrounds them from about 500 feet up is enough to impart a sensory overload of jaw- dropping scenery. Throw in a pillow-soft landing on the water and a picnic lunch on one of the uninhabited islands and you have a travel experience that will stand out in your mind forever.

Florida Keys Aerial, Florida Keys Seaplane Adventures

More than 1,700 islands make up the Florida Keys, including uninhabited spits of land and mangroves that look like fuzzy green puzzle pieces from the air. Photo: Robert Zehetmayer/iStock

Julie Ann Floyd and Nikali Pontecorvo of Key West Seaplanes (keywestseaplanes.com) help make these kinds of memories for guests every day. The duo owns and operates three luxury seaplanes in which they take travelers on island adventures throughout the Keys and beyond. “We’re taking seaplane travel to the next level,” says Floyd, “where everything is nice and comfortable.” One of their newest seaplanes, customized with extra-long wing tips and power modifications to the engine make for a smoother and safer ride, was named grand champion at the Sun-N-Fun air show in 2012, and the latest addition to the fleet was built to the same specifications.

Flights they offer range from 30-minute aerial tours of Key West, where you’ll get an amazing overview of the island and see sights like the Southernmost Point, Fort Zachary Taylor and Christmas Tree Island, to day-long island-hopping tours of the Keys. The amphibious planes can land at uninhabited islands for the ultimate private getaway or pull up at a dock for breakfast, lunch or dinner at Little Palm Island or the Moorings resorts, or anywhere in Islamorada, Key Largo and Ocean Reef, among other destinations. “When you come in by seaplane,” Floyd adds, “people know you’ve arrived.” Along the way you’ll buzz by iconic Keys landmarks like the Seven Mile Bridge and the Alligator Reef Lighthouse from a perspective few ever encounter. Passengers even spot dolphins, sea turtles and other sea life in the crystal-clear water below.

Want to go on a more international trip? No problem (as long as you have a passport). Key West Seaplanes picks up travelers in any city or any suitable body of water in the Keys or mainland Florida, and can head out for day trips to the Bahamas, including destinations like Bimini, Nassau, Freeport and Paradise Island. However long your flight or where your destination, the views alone will help make it the flight of a lifetime.

Key West Aerial

An aerial view of Key West with the Florida Keys in the distance. Key West is just 90 miles from Cuba. Photo: Andy Newman/Florida Keys News Bureau

Florida Keys Shipwreck Diving
Florida, Florida Keys, Play, Trip Ideas

Favorite Wreck Dives in the Florida Keys

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It’s common to see visitors to the Florida Keys stand in awe as they gaze upon the sparklingly clear blue-green water that surrounds the island chain. Take a peek beneath the surface, though, and there’s much more to see. Not only does the water teem with vibrant coral reefs and schooling fish, but it’s a treasure trove of shipwrecks dating as far back as the 18th century. More than 10 ships make up the Florida Keys Shipwreck Trail, or “wreck trek,” creating an underwater playground for snorkelers and divers. Local dive shops rent any gear you might need and can pair you with a dive buddy if you’re traveling solo.

Key Largo Favorites

Several of the wrecks lie off of Key Largo, where dive operators like Horizon Divers and Island Ventures take aquatic adventurers to explore the remains of these ships. The City of Washington sank in just 25 feet of water, making this a prime spot for snorkelers. Clear visibility means it’s easy to spot the moray eels and nurse sharks that call the area home and see the pieces of the ship, which sank in 1917. The wreckage is scattered along 325 feet of seafloor, but you can follow the outline of what’s left of the hull and watch schools of jacks and yellow-striped grunts swim through the engine mount and coral-covered pieces of deck ladders. The Benwood, which sank in a collision during World War II, is a diver’s paradise. The hull, fractured but intact up to the first deck, fills your entire view from the surface. Dive 25 feet and swim over the wreck to spot barracuda hovering above the deck and goliath grouper lurking in the cracks and crevices. Go down another 20 feet to swim along the hull and see a plethora of colorful hard corals and sea urchins that have attached themselves to the walls. Keep an eye out for the dye bomb from when the Benwood was used for aerial target practice.

Divers wanting to go bigger will also have to go a bit deeper to explore the massive superstructures of the 510-foot USS Spiegel Grove, which rises some 60 feet above a 130-foot-deep sand bottom. Put down after years of meticulous planning and preparation, this former Navy landing ship made headlines when it turned turtle a day before its planned sinking, then stubbornly refused to put its bow under. When it finally did sink, the ship came to rest on its side. Three years later a storm surge from Hurricane Dennis rolled it upright, and it has now become the Key’s favorite wreck.

Spiegel Grove diving Florida Keys

After a decade in the water, portions of the USS Spiegel Grove are now covered in a colorful carpet of corals and sponges, adding an extra degree of interest to the ship. Photo: Stephen Frink/Florida Keys News Bureau

Where to Stay: A waterfall pool, private beach and balconies overlooking the Florida Bay make the Hilton Key Largo Resort a prime spot for your time spent topside. Proximity to John Pennekamp Coral Reef State Park and marinas used by many Key Largo dive shops makes the Hilton a popular choice with visiting divers. But if your plan is to engage in more water-sports adventures than diving, you’ll find parasailing, windsurfing, kayaking and paddleboarding, along with Hobie Cat rentals at the resort’s beach. Exhausted and hungry at the end of the day, guests just head to the resort’s Treetops Bar & Grill for platters of seafood.

Marathon and Beyond

Head west to Marathon and hook up with Tilden’s Scuba Center for a trip to the resting place of the Adelaide Baker, just off of Duck Key. The only big piece that remains of this 1889 wreck is the main mast, but the debris lies in the midst of a thriving reef with visibility that snorkelers and divers crave. It’s just 20 feet deep, which gives snorkelers a clear view of the colorful parrotfish and porkfish that dart around the brain coral and sea fans the reef is known for. On the deep side of the reef, and a few miles to the west, the intentionally-sunk freighter Adolphus Busch serves as a fish haven and attracts divers comfortable at depths of 80 to 100 feet. To cap off a Key’s wreck adventure, divers can head to the end of the highway in Key West to discover the USNS Vandenberg, a former troop transport and missile-tracking ship that is the latest addition to the wreck trek. This 17,120-ton behemoth—the biggest wreck in the Keys—was sunk as an artificial reef about seven miles off of Key West in 2009. Today it’s a regular stop for most dive centers on the island. Open-water divers can swim over the massive radar dishes and antennae, which are visible in just 40 feet of water, and deepwater divers can explore the bridge, main deck and hull, which rest at 140 feet. Coral has already started to cover much of the ship’s surface, and sea life like barracuda, grouper and snapper have moved in.

Florida Keys Shipwreck Vandy

A group of divers descends on the USNS Vandenberg soon after its sinking. The large antenna dish in the background was used to track rocket launches during the space race. Photo: Haig Jacobs/Florida Keys News Bureau

Where to Stay: Hawks Cay Florida Keys Resort on Duck Key is smack in the middle of the Keys—the optimal place to base yourself for diving and snorkeling in the middle and lower Keys. Two-story villas with up to three rooms can house groups looking to get wet, and the on-site dive crew at the resort’s marina makes booking your boat a breeze. The resort’s saltwater lagoon, fed by the Atlantic and encircled by a sandy beach dotted with thatched huts and chaises, is the place to be when not out under the water. And at night a friendly crowd gathers around the poolside fire pit to toast the end of the day.

florida keys shipwreck

A diver examines images attached to the superstructure of the USNS Vandenberg. After gaining an underwater patina, this artwork was returned to the surface for exhibit. Photo: Andreas Franke/Florida Keys News Bureau

 

 

Florida keys waterfront homes
Florida, Florida Keys, Plan, Trip Ideas

Florida Keys: 10 Reasons to Go

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In a league of its own, the Florida Keys has an island vibe that makes you want to kick back and relish life – all at a much slower pace than on Florida’s mainland. With the Atlantic Ocean on the east and the Florida Bay and Gulf of Mexico on the west side, each island in this dangling string has its own personality. You’ll find great places to snorkel, fish, kayak and indulge in all sorts of water sports, as well as plenty of wildlife sightings along the way. Friendly bars and restaurants, ranging from fish shacks to fine dining, and a growing art scene, round out life in the Keys.

1  It’s the Lifestyle

Maybe your stay is only for a few days, but the main reason to visit the Keys is for its island lifestyle, and even a city slicker can easily fall into the rhythm and start promising themselves they’re moving here first chance they get. (Ask any local; they’ve heard the story many times.) Life slows down abruptly once you step foot onto this chain of tropical islands, so throw away any well-planned itinerary and just go with the flow.

2  Gone Fishing

Serious fishermen have been coming here for decades, and novices are always welcome. Take your pick: deep sea fishing out in the Atlantic Ocean, backcountry angling in the Florida Bay or bonefishing in the shallows of the flats. You’ll find top-notch fishing guides who know where the fish hang out so get ready to reel in a boat load.

3  Key Lime Pie

A signature taste, the Key lime pie has been around these islands since early Bahamians settled here more than 100 years ago and made pies with the juice from the islands’ citrus. Evolving over time, the creamy, sweet-but-tart dessert was made with either a traditional or graham- cracker crust and topped with either meringue or whipped cream. The debate goes on as to which is better, but you can decide for yourself. The pie is served at restaurants throughout the Keys, but the place local’s most often recommend is Mrs. Mac’s Kitchen on Key Largo.

4  Paddle Time

The mangrove islands that sprout up off the main keys are ideal for kayakers on the lookout for Mother Nature’s children. Spot waterfowl like herons and egrets hiding in the tangled prop roots of the red mangroves and peer into the clear waters to see fish and crustaceans in their natural habitat. Outfitters provide kayaks, and guided trips are an ideal way to get acquainted with the islands’ natural side.

5  Diving Deep

The most popular dive and snorkel spot is John Pennekamp Coral Reef State Park off of Key Largo, where the reef gets all the attention. Stingrays, angelfish and barracuda are found here along with fan and boulder corals. For the more adventurous divers, shipwrecks and artificial reefs are plentiful in these southern waters as well. And for landlubbers, the History of Diving Museum in Islamorada can answer any questions about the sport’s past.

6  Lobster Lovers

Home to the Florida spiny lobster, the Keys is the place to get the freshest lobster dinner. But if you’re up for an adventure, you can catch your own in the wild during season, August through March. Most popular is the season’s kick-off, a two-day mini-season held the last consecutive Wednesday and Thursday in July. Rules and limits on your take apply, so know before you go.

7  Seafood Feast

In all of Florida, the Keys is probably the best place to find the freshest seafood. Stone crabs are brought in from October through May and you can watch boats being unloaded at the Keys Fisheries in Marathon. Buy them at the adjacent market or enjoy them in the restaurant. On Stock Island just before crossing the bridge to Key West, Fishbusterz is where shrimpers and fishermen sell their catches. Look for yellowtail snapper, hogfish and all sorts of grouper, along with plump Key West pink shrimp and spiny lobsters in the market’s display case.

8  Tiny Deer

For nature lovers a sighting of a Key deer makes a trip through this chain of islands so rewarding. In the National Key Deer Refuge on Big Pine Key, your chances of spotting the smallest North American deer are good. The Key deer live only in the Florida Keys and are known for swimming between islands. Residents are often surprised when they pop up in backyards.

9  Eclectic Accommodations

Nestled behind tropical greenery off U.S. Highway 1, the one road through the chain, are some really cool properties. Fishermen seeking luxury can book at the Cheeca Lodge & Spa in Islamorada, where U.S. presidents have stayed during fishing trips. Boaters arriving by sea dock near their room or bungalow at La Siesta Resort & Marina on Islamorada. Romantics find hideaways tucked amongst blooming bougainvillea at Key Largo’s Kona Kai Resort, where escaping from life’s daily routine is totally possible. The whole family can hang out at Hawk’s Cay Resort on Duck Key, a water-sports mecca. And for accommodations on the sand, book a two-level beach house at Tranquility Bay Beachfront Hotel & Resort in Marathon.

10  Island Rentals

No kidding! Although it might be a bit extreme for most of us, you can rent a whole island. Seabird Key near Marathon is one option. The 10-acre island’s Old Florida-style cottage with its wraparound porch makes the perfect tropical getaway for a group of eight. Loll in a hammock strung between coconut palms or explore the surrounding waters in the 19-foot Boston Whaler provided for guests.

Big animal encounters, Diving with Goliath Grouper
Bahamas, Bahamas-Grand Bahama Island, Bahamas-New Providence, Bahamas-Out Islands, Belize, Cancun, Caribbean, Cayman Islands, Dominican Republic, Florida, Florida Keys, Play, Trip Ideas

10 Places in the Tropics for Big Animal Encounters

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Coral reefs and colorful tropical fish are what many seek when they embark on snorkeling or diving adventures. But there are bigger fish in the sea, and at select places in the Caribbean and tropical Atlantic, you can be all but guaranteed a chance to come face to face with critters that are closer to your own size—or significantly larger. Here are some of the best big animal adventures I’ve enjoyed and can endorse.

Giant Grouper

You’ll need to be comfortable performing a drift dive at depths of 60 to 80 feet for an almost-guaranteed chance to see the biggest fish on the reef. Protected status has brought the Goliath grouper back to the reefs of South Florida, where it’s sometimes possible to swim with 40 or more fish weighting 200 to 400 pounds. The annual late-summer spawn brings together the greatest number of fish, but there’s a good chance of seeing several behemoths cruising the ledges off Jupiter, Florida, at any time of the year.

Moray Eel

The teeth are wicked sharp, but that doesn’t stop Spencer Slate from hand feeding the moray eel he’s nicknamed Sundance. It’s all part of his weekly Creature Feature dives, which take place on the coral reefs near Key Largo, Florida. The big eel isn’t the only animal that comes when Spencer pulls out some tasty fish treats. There’s also a large resident grouper that shoulders in for a bite, and at least one nurse shark, destined to become the recipient of one of Spenser’s bear hugs. Next, participants in the feed are given the chance to mug with the animals themselves while the dive shop’s photo pro shoots souvenir stills and video.

Humpback Whales

Every year from January to April, pods of humpback whales pass through a region known as the Silver Banks. Located some 60 miles north of the Dominican Republic, this marine sanctuary has become a prime destination for in-water humpback encounters. Due to the long runs from shore, these interspecies meet-ups are usually staged from liveaboard dive boats. If jumping overboard isn’t for you, opt for a single- day whale-watching trip in Samana Bay.

Loggerhead Turtles

Sea turtles are among the most common large animals found on reefs throughout the Caribbean, and they are usually quite tolerant of divers and snorkelers—though it’s never a good idea to chase or harasser them. The experience turns from ooh to wow when the encounter involves a loggerhead turtle. These heavyweight hard shells can grow to 300 pounds or more, and live to a half century. A good place to find them in shallow water is among the remains of the Sugar Wreck, which is located just off Grand Bahama’s west end.

Manatee

When Florida’s coastal waters grow cool in the winter months, resident herds of sea cows move into the relatively warmer waters of spring-fed estuaries such as Crystal River on the Gulf side of the state. There, it’s possible to don mask, snorkel and a wet suit to get up close with these gentle giants. Just don’t get too aggressive or attempt to touch them, as there are strict regulations regarding interactions. This will all be explained to you during the brief ride from dock to manatee sanctuary. For more than two decades, Bird’s Underwater has remained one of the most reliable and convenient operators for manatee encounters.

Nurse Sharks

The sound of an approaching boat draws an aquatic menagerie of moochers that includes grouper, jacks, southern stingrays and nurse sharks to the sandy shallows known as Shark Ray Alley. These fish were originally conditioned to seek scraps from local fishermen, who once stopped here to clean their catch. The site is now part of the Hol Chan Marine Reserve and one of the most popular aquatic attractions in Belize. The nurse sharks, typically as benign as their name implies, sometimes seem to nuzzle up to swimmers, but what they are really after is a handout. Several operators run trips to the site from nearby Ambergris Caye.

Reef Sharks

The Bahamas offer a wide range of shark-diving adventures, some mild, some wild. The most accessible, consistent and safest are the reef shark encounters offered by Stuart Cove’s Aqua Adventures. You can don scuba to watch these impressive predators take the bait during a shark-feeding dive, observe them circling below while snorkeling the reefs, or climb into one of Stuart’s unique one-person submersibles to motor among them. The shop picks up at most of the major resorts on New Providence and Paradise Island, and caters to everyone from first-timers to movie crews who come here for guaranteed action footage.

Wild Dolphins

The meetings between human and cetacean that take place in the bright, sand-bottom shoals of the Bahamas are nothing like the encounters staged with captive animals. These are spotted pods of wild, free- swimming dolphin. When they approach, it is of their own free will, not institutional conditioning. Pods can sometimes be found in the Little Bahama Bank, but it is near the small island of Bimini that they make their most consistent appearances. Dolphin day trips can be booked with tour companies on Bimini, or for an extended adventure, there are dedicated liveaboards offering trips of up to a week.

Stingrays

Stingray feeds have spread to several islands in the Caribbean, but the original and still the most popular takes place in the waters of Grand Cayman’s North Sound. Here, dozens of tour boats are drawn to a shallow patch of sand where a resident group of stingrays has been conditioned to accept a free seafood meal. While participants kneel or stand in the shallows, the rays flit among them, getting up close to create memorable photo ops. There are actually two adjacent sites where the rays are fed, and for the best experience, avoid the large boats that ferry cruise-ship crowds and opt for one of the smaller operators.

Whale Sharks

The idea of coming face to face with a 35-foot-long shark might be alarming, were if not for the fact that these filter-feeding giants gorge on plankton, not humans. In fact, when you find yourself in the path of one of these slow-moving fish, they seem to pay you little mind as they move forward with mouths agape to suck in their tiny prey. The best place to swim with whale sharks is on the Contoy Banks, which lie north of Cancun and are best reached by boats leaving from Isla Mujeres or the more remote Holbox Island. Prime whale-spotting season begins in late May and runs into early September.

florida keys highway
Florida, Florida Keys, Key West, Plan, Trip Ideas

Florida Keys Road Trip

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Whether you drive the 127-mile-long chain in one day or break up your trip with an overnight, take time to get off the highway and experience each island’s flavor, from tropical gardens and huge fish to gorgeous sunsets and miniature deer. A road trip through the Florida Keys turns up some great finds, here are a few we think are worth a stop.

The Botanic Gardens at Kona Kai Resort, Key Largo, Mile Marker 97.9

With a location facing the Florida Bay and the Everglades National Park, this garden with 250 tropical species is tucked in the Kona Kai Resort. Despite its compact size, the garden is packed with 42 different palm species—and that’s just to start. Stroll past waterfalls and banks of ferns en route to the orchid house. Book a garden tour in advance and learn about Florida’s native plants, varieties of bamboo, tropical fruit trees, bromeliads and cycads.

Bass Pro Shops, Islamorada, Mile Marker 81.5

If you plan to do some fishing—or if you just arrived from northern climes and desperately need some cool, functional clothing that makes you look like a real fisherman—stop at the two-story Bass Pro Shops. It’s got all the reels, rods, lures and anything else you might need for saltwater fishing, fly fishing, and even kayaking and canoeing. Boaters have a showroom with tons of equipment to upgrade their watercraft. The store even stocks electronic fishfinders; however, we doubt you’ll have any problem finding something to reel in down here in the Keys.

Lorelei, Islamorada, Mile Marker 82

Keep an eye out for the funky mermaid sign as you cruise down U.S. Highway 1 and follow it to this iconic Keys bar and restaurant. Grab a table on the patio or beach overlooking the Florida Bay and bobbing sailboats. The Lorelei’s conch fritters and a cold beer make the perfect pair. Come at dusk for live music island-style and sunset celebrations.

Robbie’s Marina, Islamorada, Mile Marker 77.5

A colorful Old Florida landmark, Robbie’s marina is more than just a place to take a fishing, snorkel or kayak trip into the Florida Bay or the Atlantic Ocean. From the weather-worn dock you can feed the huge tarpon that loom below. In the parking lot under coconut palms, vendors sell island art of Keys’ landscapes and wildlife. And at the Hungry Tarpon restaurant, the chef will cook your catch; if you didn’t go angling, then order his fish-of-the-day sandwich, which is always a good choice.

Keys Fisheries, Marathon, Mile Marker 49

Keys Fisheries. Florida Keys road trip

The freshest stone crab claws are sold by the pound from October to May at Keys Fisheries. Photo: iStock

Find your perch on the elevated deck facing the Gulf of Mexico and watch the commercial fishing boats return. Keys Fisheries is both a working fishery, known for its hauls of stone crabs during seasons (October to May), and a seafood restaurant/market. Its culinary claim to famous is the lobster Rueben sandwich, made with Florida spiny lobster. The number of sandwiches sold since the staff started keeping track in 2002 is posted on the wall. Last time we checked the count was more than 208,000! How’s that for delicious?

Seven Mile Bridge, Mile Marker 47

Drive into the sunset. An excellent vantage point for viewing memorable Florida Keys sunsets is the Seven Mile Bridge heading southwest. The elevated road provides an unobstructed panorama of the sun, clouds and water, as yellows and blues turn into shades of pink and mauve. Check the sunset hour and time your road trip to catch those last minutes before the fire ball disappears into the Gulf of Mexico.

National Key Deer Refuge, Mile Marker 31

August is the best time of year to spot the tiny Key deer and their offspring in the Lower Keys. Photo: iStock

August is the best time of year to spot the tiny Key deer and their offspring in the Lower Keys. Photo: iStock

To spot a Key deer, the tiny endangered species that inhabits the Lower Keys, stop at the National Key Deer Refuge on Big Pine Key. Comparable to the size of a Great Dane, the deer measure about 30 inches tall and weighs around 75 pounds. The best viewing time is when they come out to forage at dusk. If no Key deer cross your path, head to neighboring No Name Key for a slice of pizza and cold beer. Tucked in a back street, the No Name Pub has the best pizza in the Keys and more dollar bills hanging from its ceiling than you can count.

Pier House, Key West, Mile Marker 0

When you reach the Pier House Resort & Spa on Key West you know you’re at the end of the line. Check into this tropical property just off Mallory Square, the hub for nightly sunset revelry. You’ll be in the heart of Old Town and can easily navigate the historic area on foot. Four-poster beds, rattan furniture and plantation shutters make the room attractive; just be sure to book one facing the Gulf of Mexico and Sunset Key, so you have your own private viewing area when the orb dips behind the horizon. Or to be part of the action, join the crowd in Mallory Square, where tightrope walkers entertain and vendors sell everything from trinkets to paintings of the famed sunsets.

Will Soto juggles while balancing on the tightrope at the Mallory Square sunset celebration. Photo: Bob Krist/Florida Keys News Bureau

Will Soto juggles while balancing on the tightrope at the Mallory Square sunset celebration.
Photo: Bob Krist/Florida Keys News Bureau