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Puerto Rico Cabo Rojo Rock Formation

Caribbean Snapshots: Cabo Rojo, Puerto Rico

 

On Puerto Rico’s far southwestern tip, 100 miles and a world away from the bustle of San Juan, a mile-long spit of land juts into the Caribbean. This is Cabo Rojo, the red cape, so named for the rust-colored cliffs that rise from the surf. Barren and starkly beautiful, the cape is uninhabited and untouched by civilization, save for Los Morrillos Lighthouse. This landmark structure, which once guided sailors away from the rocks, now attracts day- trippers, who come both for the view and to swim at an adjacent beach.

From the lighthouse, trails lead westward along the cliffs to a cove that overlooks a natural rock bridge. A mere three feet wide, this rock spine tempts the adventurous to inch their way out to the connected spire, while the more prudent are content to take in the view from the safety of the bluff. After admiring this natural wonder and snapping a few photos, hikers can continue to explore the surrounding cliffs, which are riddled with small caves, and home to thousands of sea birds.

St Thomas Charlotte Amalie

Walk This Way: 99 Steps, St. Thomas USVI

 

Charlotte Amalie is one of the busiest cruise ports in the Caribbean. But if you walk a few blocks beyond the waterfront taverns of Veterans Drive, and the duty-free offerings of Dronningens Gade, you can discover a city with a rich history, where cobblestone streets and colonial-era buildings serve as reminders of Danish rule and pirate occupations.

One of the more picturesque remnants of this era is the walkway known as 99 steps, which climbs the hillside from Kongens Gade toward the landmark tower of Blackbeard’s Castle. This thoroughfare, listed on old maps as Greater Tower Street, is one of the best surviving examples of the old town’s numerous stair-stepped streets known as frigangs that connected the waterfront to hillside dwellings.

The Danish-made bricks used to build these stairways date from the 1700s, and were originally used as ship’s ballast before being repurposed as a building material. Today, the stairway is primarily used by sightseers, often as part of a walking tour that takes in other historic landmarks such as Fort Christian, Emancipation Park and the St. Thomas Synagogue, which is the second oldest in the Western Hemisphere. Those who delight in details might note that, despite the name, the stairway actually includes a total of 103 steps. But who’s counting; just enjoy the view.

Antigua Redonda Island Sunset

Caribbean Snapshots: Redonda, Antigua

 

If you happen to be sailing between the islands of Nevis and Montserrat, you’ll pass close to a barren, rocky island ringed by cliffs that rise from crashing surf to heights of 1,000 feet. Though it might not look like much, it’s claimed that the island of Redonda is the home of the Caribbean’s only remaining monarchy. Christopher Columbus made note of the island as he sailed past on his second voyage, and named it Santa María de la Redonda, meaning Saint Mary the Round.

Having no potential for settlement, the islet was largely ignored until the British annexed it to Antigua, with the intention of harvesting the valuable deposits of phosphate-rich guano (aka bird poop) that covered the slopes. A mining colony was established on the inhospitable landscape, and harvesting operations continued until the start of the First World War. At the peak, some 200 workers lived on Redonda, but today it lies vacant, with broken cisterns, rusting machinery, crumbled barracks and a hint of an old post office–all weathered remains of the past mining community.

The tale of Redonda’s monarchy begins with a trader from Montserrat named Matthew Shiel, who laid claim to the island in 1865 so that his newly born son, Matthew Phipps Shiel, could be known as the King of Redonda. His figurehead sovereignty was said to be recognized by the British when they took control of the island. In later years, this title would be passed on not by heredity, but to a succession of literary figures, who ruled their kingdom from afar, preferring the pubs of London to the sunbaked slopes of their fiefdom. The current king goes by the title of Michael the Grey, though there is some dispute as to the order of ascension, with several laying claim to the throne. Various other titles and knighthoods were dispensed to cronies of the kings over the years, but the only subjects his highness presides over these days are flocks of sea birds, an assortment of lizards and a herd of goats.

 

bermuda

Bermuda: 10 Reasons to Go

 

Quaint, yet cosmopolitan. Bermuda is a vacation destination that draws visitors from both sides of the Atlantic. Traditions such as high tea, croquet lawns and afternoon cricket matches blend with modern recreations ranging from golf to scuba diving. History buffs have forts and lighthouses to discover and the beaches are some of the best in the world. Top that with a warm and friendly population whose cultural mix include British, West Indian and a touch of Portuguese and you have a destination that everyone loves and no one wants to leave.

1  Go Coastal

While pink beaches are the island’s trademark, some stretches of coastline are actually covered in soft, creamy-white sand that is just as striking when set against the electric blue waters. Coastlines are punctuated by coves, etched out caves and natural arches formed by centuries of wave erosion. Exploring the coastlines is always interesting and adventurous as you climb over rugged ledges and rocky formations for expansive ocean views. 

Horseshoe Bay Bermuda

The pink sands of Horseshoe Beach are sheltered by rocky headlands and a fringing reef. This is one of Bermuda’s most popular beaches, and a favorite destination for snorkelers. Photo: Todd Taulman/iStock

2  Maritime History

The vision of the British was to make Bermuda the Gibraltar of the west. Construction of the Royal Naval Dockyard began in 1809. This sprawling 75-acre complex was intended as a base to defend the British colonies and to attack American forces. Built by slaves and convicts, the stonewalls surrounding the yards once housed ammunition and barracks. Today you still enter the Dockyard via stone gates, but inside there are shops, restaurants and galleries along with the Bermuda Maritime Museum. 

Bermuda Royal Naval Dockyard

Bermuda’s Royal Naval Dockyard was once an important British military port. Today, the expansive grounds and resorted buildings are a favorite destination for sightseers. Photo: Gerald LaFlamme/iStock

3  The Magic Bus

Bermuda’s bus system is second to none. Known as the Bermuda Breeze, these pink-and-blue coaches are the primary means of transport for locals and visitors alike, and run from one end of the island to the other. The buses are spotlessly clean, run on a schedule and are a perfect place to chat, meet locals and other visitors. More than just a driver, the man behind the wheel is an ambassador for the island.

4  Pristine Properties

Bermuda may be the cleanest island in the world. The island villages are quaint and tidy, as Bermudians take great pride in their property. You’ll notice manicured green lawns and gardens full of blooms; some homes have a vegetable plot arranged so perfectly that it could be featured in a gardening magazine. Stone walls separate properties and orchards and are covered in spider lilies and flowering vines. Homes are tinted in a collection of water taffy pastels. You’ll see lime green, sky blue, lemon yellow and raspberry pink, all topped with stark white limestone roofs. 

Bermuda Village

Though often referred to as the island of Bermuda, this British Overseas Territory is actually composed of 138 separate landmasses, most connected by a network of bridges and roadways with tidy villages. Photo: iStock

5  Top-notch Sleepovers

No mater where you check in, you won’t find a tattered, run down or even a run-of-the-mill resort on the island. Choices range from elegant and historic beach hideaways where guests are indulged in food, wine and white glove service to cottage colonies where you feel more like a resident than a hotel guest. These cottage compounds are unique to Bermuda and date back to an era when guests came for extended summer stays. Stay in a cottage on the grounds of a resort and you can enjoy both privacy and the conveniences of on-site restaurants, lounges, and recreational amenities.

6  Tee time

Bermuda has more golf courses per square mile than any other island, including several that are ranked as among the best in the world. Some courses offer spectacular views of the ocean from elevated tees and hilltop clubs, while others such as Belmont Hills have panoramic views of Hamilton Harbour and the Great Sound. Those looking for a memorable challenge can take on two of golf’s most legendary holes: the Mid Ocean Club’s intimidating fourth, known as the Cape, and the spectacular oceanside par-3 16th at Port Royal.

Southampton Golf Course Bermuda

The Turtle Hill Golf Club at the Fairmont Southampton has been ranked among the top par-3 courses in the world. Bermuda offers seven golf courses, including several of championship quality. Photo: iStock

7  Men in Shorts

Nowhere else in the world can men go to business meetings in shorts. No, not beach shorts, but stylish, pressed Bermuda shorts. Proper business attire states that shorts cannot be more than two inches above the knee and should have a two-inch hem. The entire ensemble includes leather shoes—preferable loafers— worn with matching or coordinating knee socks and a long sleeve shirt, tie and jacket. Add a briefcase and you’ve got your power executive. The shorts started as a result of offering businessmen a respite from the warm summers and today are worn in the colors of Bermuda: lime green, pink and lemon yellow—with matching socks, of course.

8  World of Goods

The island is a crossroads for international maritime commerce. During the American Civil War, Bermuda traders ran supplies through the North’s blockades of Southern ports. Today international commerce centers around the capital of Hamilton. Front Street is lined with shops selling imports from around the world. You can stock up on Lalique and Wedgewood along with Irish linens, Scottish Tweeds, Swiss watches, Cuban cigars and Italian silk scarfs all duty free. Local artwork includes hand-blown glass, pottery, paintings and sculptures which can be found in Hamilton and shops at the Dockyard. 

Hamilton Bermuda

Bermuda’s capital city, Hamilton, is both a major international center and a popular port of call. Front Street faces the harbor, and is lined by a collection of popular shops and cafes. Photo: iStock

9  Think Pink

The color of Bermuda is pink. Everywhere you look you’ll find a shade of blush, rose or coral brushed on a building, used in a logo and in articles of clothing. Men, in particular, wear a lot of the color and most have a pair of pink Bermuda shorts in their wardrobe. The various tones of pink are a reflection of the natural beauty of the island, its pink sand beaches and pink sunsets. 

Bermuda Pink Building

This traditional building displays Bermuda’s signature pink hue, and reflects a time before air conditioning, when breezeways and overhangs capitalized on cooling breezes. Photo: Megan Morgan/iStock

10  Wrecking Crew

The treacherous reefs surrounding the island have claimed many a ship. Today Bermuda is known as a wreck diving mecca, with more than 400 vessels sunk off its coastlines. There are 16th- century Spanish galleons, merchant steamers from the 1800s and decommissioned freighters intentionally sunk for reef building purposes. The largest wreck is the Cristobal Colon, a 500-foot luxury liner. Most wrecks are in relatively shallow water, and are easily reached by several dive operators.

St. Lucia Pitons at Sunset

Caribbean Snapshots: The Pitons, St. Lucia

 

The twin peaks known as the Pitons are among the most iconic landmarks in the Caribbean. Located on the west-central coast of St. Lucia, they rise dramatically from the shore to heights of just over 2,600 feet. The Arawak viewed the spires as gods; the larger of the pair, Gros Piton, being the god of thunder, fire and food, while Petite Piton was endowed with fertility, the phases of the moon and tides. Today these majestic summits are admired by visitors from around the world, and are under the protection of UNESCO World Heritage Site.

The cones are actually the remains of a pair of long-dormant volcanoes, and their slopes continue downward beyond the beach, giving divers and snorkelers a coral-encrusted volcanic slope to explore. Ambitious hikers can make their way to the top of Gros Piton on a steep but manageable trail, while an ascent of Petit Piton is considered a borderline mountain climbing expedition. Those who make it to the top of either are rewarded with 360-degree views of St. Lucia, the Caribbean Sea and even the neighboring island of St. Vincent. If you’d prefer to enjoy the view in a more leisurely fashion, check in to one of the upscale resorts that nestle into nearby hillsides. Properties such as Jade Mountain offer especially impressive panoramas of the peaks from balconies and private plunge pools set high on an adjacent slope.

Cuba Salto De Vegas

Caribbean Cascades: Salto Vega Grande, Cuba

 

To the west of the scenic town of Trinidad, the green slopes of Cuba’s Escambray Mountains rise to heights of 3,000 feet. Here, jungle rivers flow through steep canyons and plunge over waterfalls to fill cool, inviting swimming holes. Much of this rugged and verdant landscape is protected within the boundaries of the Gran Parque Natural Topes de Collantes.

This nature reserve is fast becoming a favorite with hikers and eco tourists, who can explore miles of pathways that wind through groves of ferns, bamboo and eucalyptus, and lead up to wooded slopes riddled with grottoes and caves. Some, such as the route to the popular Salto del Caburni falls, can be demanding, and will require sturdy walking shoes and several hours to complete.

By contrast, the footpath from the roadside to a view of the Vega Grande falls is short and relatively easy. After taking in the panoramic vistas, many visitors continue on to the base of the falls, where a sparkling freshwater pool awaits.

San Felipe Del Morro

Caribbean Snap Shots: Castillo San Felipe del Morro, San Juan, Puerto Rico

 

The massive stone walls and iconic turrets of this fortress have become one of the most famous landmarks in Puerto Rico. Known to most simply as ‘El Morro’ this sprawling fortification occupies a seaside promontory overlooking San Juan Bay. Soon after the original Spanish colony of San Juan was founded on the shores of the bay, work began on a fort that would guard the entrance to what would become one of the most strategic and active ports of call in the Caribbean.

For the next 200 years, work continued as fortress walls grew higher, thicker, and longer. The cannons repelled English and Dutch warships, but were no match for the US fleet that shelled and then captured the fort during the Spanish American War. When control of the island shifted from Spain to the United States, El Morro became a US military base, and remained active until 1961, when it was turned over to the National Park Service. Now recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage site, the grounds are restored to their 18th century appearance.

Today, no visit to Old San Juan would be complete without a walking tour of El Morro, though seeing the entire complex will require some legwork as you hike over hillsides and climb winding flights of stone stairs to reach lookout posts where sentries once stood guard against the approaching enemies. Following the labyrinth of tunnels, dungeons, ramparts, towers and barracks can take most of the day.

Weekends bring out locals who come to the grassy hillside to picnic, relax and fly kites. The strong breezes that come in off the Atlantic and the spacious park-like area make “El Campo” ideal for flying homemade or store brought craft. Food vendors sell drinks and snacks, and the sky is filled with a rainbow of darting and soaring colors.

Cuba Partagas Cigar Factory

Authentic Caribbean: Partagas Cigar Factory, Havana, Cuba

 

Cuba is considered the birthplace of the premium cigar, and many legendary brands were created in factories located right in the capital of Havana. Among these, none are more recognized and revered than the Partagas label. The original factory, built by founder Don Jaime Partagas in 1845, is still in operation, though now owned and managed by the Cuban government. Inside, workers use traditional hand-rolling techniques to transform select aged tobaccos from the country’s Vuleta Abajo region into the distinctive smokes that are prized by cigar connoisseurs around the world.

Portions of the factory’s interior were renovated in 2012, but the distinctive neoclassical facade facing Calle Industria remains unchanged. The factory is literally across the street from Cuba’s capitol building, and any walking tour of Havana should include a stop at this historic landmark, where visitors can watch tobacco leaves being transformed into fine cigars by hand, and then shop for the finished product at the on-site store. A current trade embargo prevents the importation of Cuban cigars into the United States, but ongoing changes in policy may soon open the market.

 

Culebrita Turtle Beach

Caribbean Snap Shots: Playa Tortuga, Culebrita, Puerto Rico

 

Time it right and you might have one of the most gorgeous beaches in the Caribbean all to yourself. The small, uninhabited island of Culebrita sits just off the northeast coast of the larger and sparsely populated island of Culebra, 15 miles east of the Puerto Rico mainland. Now designated as a National Wildlife Refuge, this mile-long dollop of coral rock features lowland tropical woodlands, wetlands and six pristine beaches.

The best of the bunch is Playa Tortuga, which is arched around a sheltering bay on the island’s leeward side. This positioning provides shelter from prevailing swells, and keeps the beach free of detritus pushed ashore by the easterly trade winds. Turtles prefer this beach for the same reasons as the few humans who visit: seclusion and shelter. Several species of turtle come ashore to nest, and can also be seen gliding about in the shallows, feasting on the sea grasses that grow in the bay.

If you can’t muster your own boat and crew, hire a water taxi to ferry you over from Culebra, itself reachable from the Fajardo area of Puerto Rico by ferry. You’ll need to bring all provisions, as the island is gloriously wild. Once there, sunning, swimming and snorkeling are the order of the day. Hiking trails crisscross the island and a favorite path leads to the ruins of historic Culebrita Lighthouse, built in 1886 and offering panoramic vistas of surrounding islands and the Caribbean.

San Jose Del Cabo Central Plaza

Walk This Way: Plaza Mijares, San Jose Del Cabo, Mexico

 

Cabo San Lucas may be party central, but there’s more to the southern tip of the Baja Peninsula than tequila shooters and all night parties. Some 20 miles to the north of Land’s End, the town of San Jose Del Cabo offers a historic side, and a dose of arts and culture. Head for Plaza Mijares, which lies in the heart of old town, where cobblestone streets run though a neighborhood that dates back to the 1700s.

As in many Mexican towns, the plaza is a hub of local social activity, which can include live music, private celebrations and public fiestas. Just across Hidalgo Street, the Iglesia San José is worth a visit. The original mission built on this site dated from the 1500s, but was destroyed in a powerful hurricane in the early 20th Century. The current church was reconstructed in the 1930s, and remains the focal point for a number of religious and cultural ceremonies.

From Hidalgo, stroll down Obregon street, where a number of historic buildings have been transformed into cafes and galleries. From November to June, locals and visitors converge on this area each Thursday evening for the Art Walk. This event has become a major social gathering, with dozens of artists and artisans exhibiting their wares in a festival-like atmosphere that spills into the streets.