Caribbean harbors have an energy all their own. In contrast to the busy industrial ports of the world, they offer a more intimate take on nautical customs. Colorful cargoes and passengers arrive and depart on diminutive island freighters and vintage ferries. Historic waterfronts are filled with the energy of commerce, but also populated by the merely curious, who come to stroll the docks, ogle the yachts and see what treasures an incoming mail boat might disgorge. Here are seven of our favorites.
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Caribbean Islands with a European Vibe
Poking around a seaside village in Provence, loitering in a creperie with the Mediterranean stretching away just outside the window, browsing boutiques filled with small things that are useless—but beautiful—to be brought home. There are places in the Caribbean that evoke that same languorous vibe and have the charm and the spirit of Europe. While you won’t mistake Martinique for the Cote d’Azur or Santo Domingo for Seville, they do offer experiences—food, atmosphere and accent—that satisfy in ways a trip to the Continent never could. Plus, the beaches are a whole lot better.
Martinique
For those familiar only with the Anglophone Caribbean, Martinique is a revelation. Sure they speak French here—alongside Creole Martiniquais—but it’s the food, the architecture and the atmosphere that give it the sense of being a lost bit of Provence that somehow floated across the pond and fetched up on a reef. The narrow streets of Fort de France wind up from the bay into the hills beyond. The spire of the white cathedral punctuating the skyline; the byways lined with French Creole buildings clad in pastel wood and plaster.
No French town is complete without its fresh market, and Le Grand Marché Couvert (Covered Market) has been the focal point since 1901. Row after row of vendors offer everything from fresh melons to bois bandé—herbal Viagra. Walk a few blocks to the considerably upmarket Rue Victor Hugo, with shops that showcase the latest fashions from Paris and the French Riviera. Make time for lunch at La Cave a Vins; enter through the wine cellar before sitting in the formal dining room or, better yet, the airy atrium lined with sun-splashed trompe l’oeil murals of French vineyards. As in France, food comes first, with wine a close second, and La Cave delivers on both counts. But La Cave is by no means the only eatery that could hold its own in the mother country. Many of the local chefs came here from the Continent or were trained there, and it shows in the minute details lavished on the dishes.
Cross the bay from Fort de France to La Village Creole in Trois-Ilets, a bricked pedestrian promenade lined with shops and cafes. Pick out some handmade jewelry, choose a cafe for dinner and then stay for music and drinks at the Hemingway pub. Just as some of the most delightful parts of France are not in Paris, you have to get away from the tourist hustle of Fort de France to get the full experience. Le Domaine Saint Aubin on the east coast is a perfect model of the gastronomic hotels that dot the French countryside. Run by a husband- and-wife team of chef and hotelier, the hotel is known for both the food and the hospitality; the 19th century plantation house is a Creole confection. Visit La Pagerie, the childhood home of Empress Josephine, and read Napoleon’s racy letters to the love of his life. The few traces that remain of Saint-Pierre—the former capital leveled by an eruption of Mount Pele in 1902—are picturesque, like the ruined forts and abbeys you find on the Continent.
Something you won’t find in France is rhum agricole, which some would argue is the lifeblood of Martinique. Most rums are produced from molasses (sugar cane juice that’s been reduced to syrup); rhum agricole is produced from the juice itself, before it’s been boiled down. You can tour the distilleries—Clément has the old machinery to gawk at and a beautiful 19th century plantation house—and come away with a liter of heaven in a bottle. Though it may lack the flowing fields of lavender, Martinique is a fair proxy for Provence, with the added bonus of palm trees and those incredible volcanic beaches—just the place to grab a bottle of rum, settle into the shade, drink and dream. C’est merveilleux!
Santo Domingo, Dominican Republic
Founded in 1498, less than a decade after Columbus’ first voyage, Santo Domingo is the oldest surviving European city in the Western Hemisphere. Following a hurricane in 1502, the current city was carefully planned on a grid laid down by Nicolás de Ovando, the colonial governor sent from Spain. Ovando placed the city where the left bank of the Ozama River meets the Caribbean Sea, on a small rise that, once lined with fortifications, was easy to defend. While a vast metropolis has grown up around it, inside the walls of the old city, you could be in Seville, the port from which the New World fleets sailed. Narrow streets are crowded by stone buildings, their doors opening immediately onto slender sidewalks. The house of Hernán Cortés, the conqueror of Mexico, is here, along with the oldest Cathedral in the New World, Santa María la Menor. This may—or may not—be the burial place of Christopher Columbus; Seville claims him too and has DNA that strongly suggests at least some of his bones are there.
Stone walls half a millennium old encircled the city and major sections still stand. The Condé Gate on the western edge of the district marks Independence Square, with its fortifications and monuments to the country’s founders. On the southeast corner is Fortaleza Ozama, its brooding, blockish walls a stark reminder of the business of war. At the time they were built, Spain was barely 20 years removed from the reconquest of their country from the African Moors; Ovando himself fought the Moors before being posted to the New World. The walls are medieval: stout, square and devoid of ornament. Ovando’s own house is now a hotel, the original walls exposed, its graceful galleried courtyard a peaceful redoubt for relaxation and soft jazz.
The Alcázar Colón was built by Diego Columbus, Christopher’s son, when he was sent to replace Ovando as governor in 1509. With its pillared galleries, it echoes the Romanesque buildings of Seville and Granada. Inside are masterworks of European painting and tapestry, heavy carved furniture with simple squared lines and a trove of antiques. In front of and behind these iconic Iberian walls, the life of the city goes on as it has for hundreds of years. People relax in the shade of trees across from the cathedral, families come out to slowly stroll and couples walk hand in hand past small shops and corner bodegas. The sights and sounds are Old World, and there’s a taste of Spain in the restaurants if you know where to look. Ironically, Dominicans prefer Italian food and tasteful trattorias abound. At El Meson de la Cava, an elegant restaurant literally inside a cave, tapas are mixed with seafood and the inevitable Italian specialties. A more traditional lineup of tapas is offered at Cantábrico, with plenty of Manchego to go with the jamon, pulpo and chorizo. Fantastico.
Barbados
While the rest of the Antilles flip-flopped between owners in the great colonial chess match of the 17th and 18th centuries, Barbados has been resolutely British since the arrival of the first English colonists in 1672. Stolid, conservative and ultimately very stable, Barbados built its wealth on sugar plantations. Affluent planters constructed expansive homes of coral rock as an enduring monument to their success, and many still stand across the island, timeless capsules preserving proper English domestic architecture. The styles range from 17th century Jacobean— all the rage back home when the earliest plantations were built—to Georgian and Victorian. Only three original Jacobean mansions are left in the Western Hemisphere and two—Drax Hall and St. Nicholas Abbey—are in Barbados. Drax would look right at home on a manor in the Cotswolds.
Perhaps reluctant to apply the newfangled style to religious buildings until it had proved itself, Bajan churches are imposing Gothic edifices with that steady, time-tested Anglican attitude. In addition to architecture, iconic British traditions were imported intact. The national sport is cricket, while horse racing at Garrison Savannah—begun in 1845—comes in a close second. A walk down Broad in Bridgetown will remind you of the high street in any middling city in England, with the exception that the prices are all duty-free. For a dive back in time, head up to Bagatelle Great House. The gracious plantation manor was built in 1645, with a formal garden and large covered porches. Arrive in the afternoon at Chatters Tea Room for high tea, complete with fine china, cucumber sandwiches and a proper cuppa. Cheerio, then.
St. Barts
If you took the French Riviera and dropped it into the tropics—wait, they already did. It’s called St. Barthélemy. Beyond chic, St. Barts was the home away from home for Caribbean crooner Jimmy Buffet, and celebrities from both sides of the pond are seen here regularly. In part, it’s the style. The fact that St. Barts is also very expensive doesn’t hurt the exclusivity factor either. It’s a remarkable transformation for a place that didn’t have electricity until the 1960s. That came courtesy of the mayor, a Dutchman who landed his plane on a grassy field—there was no airport—and ended up buying a rocky promontory on Baie St. Jean. He built a little hideaway hotel and that hotel, Eden Rock, became a magnet for glitterati.
Across the island at Gustavia, the streets scramble up a steep hillside; small cafes with patisserie selections worthy of a Paris suburb rub elbows with elegant boutiques. While the chicness of it all is very Riviera, it’s the attitude that seals the deal: food in the Continental fashion prepped with a fanatical attention to detail and, of course, the perfect wine. There are 150 bottles in the cellar at the Eden Roc, including a $4,200 bottle of Petrus and a $7,500 Jeroboam by Cristal. Your cheeseburger in paradise will be served with brie rather than cheddar, and at $45 you hope it will be personally grilled by superstar chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten, who operates the hotel’s restaurants. Tres bon!
Curacao
Viewed from Sint Annabai (St. Anna’s Bay), the tall, narrow buildings of Willemstad’s historic Punda district could be canal houses in Amsterdam, save for their bright Easter-egg exteriors. Here as at home, the Dutch taxed homeowners by width rather than square footage, creating domino-like rows of tall, skinny houses with distinctive steeply pitched roofs and Dutch gable ends. Crossing the swinging Queen Emma pontoon bridge brings you down into the streets of Punda, where narrow byways are lined with small shops and restaurants. Sit down at a table and all around you may hear native Dutch from the many expats and islanders educated in the Netherlands, or Papiamentu, a Creole dialect of Dutch, Portuguese, Spanish, English and Amerindian. Several thousand makambas (Dutch) live in Curacao, and 40 percent of the island’s tourists are Europeans.
The food is different, too. A collection of edibles gathered from across the 18th century Dutch empire: roti and tandoori from India, rijstaffel (rice table) and bami (stir-fried noodles) from Indonesia and okra and peanuts from Africa. The foodstuffs arrived in the holds of Dutch traders, and once on shore, they evolved and blended. Keshi yena is a delicious concoction of Gouda cheese stuffed with chicken, onions, sliced olives and raisins. The best of these made it back to Amsterdam and are served there today, a gastronomic bond between the motherland and the former colony.
Get that grounded historic feeling from a visit to Mikve Israel-Emanuel, the oldest synagogue in the Western Hemisphere. Sephardic Jews from Portugal who came here to find freedom from persecution founded the congregation in 1651, and the synagogue was built in 1732. The floor is covered with sand to remind worshippers of the 40 years Israelites spent wandering in the desert after their escape from Egypt. There are forts as well—Amsterdam, Nassau and Beekenburg—with the expected walls mounted with cannons. The only things missing are bicycles and canal boats—that, and the long, hard winters. Muchu bunita, muchu nechi!
Turks and Caicos: 10 Reasons to Go
For many years, the islands of the Turks and Caicos have remained a faint blip on most North Americans’ tourism radar-despite the fact that these islands lie just below the Bahamas, hours closer to the mainland than the majority of more familiar Caribbean destinations. And proximity isn’t the only attraction. The varied islands of this British Overseas Territory offer spectacular beaches and a range of vacation experiences from the posh and exclusive to the simple and reclusive. If you aren’t familiar with the T&C, it’s time to discover what awaits.
1 Water World
The most stunning asset, and the one your fellow visitors won’t stop talking about, is the water. These may be the most geographically fortunate islands in the region. The Caicos Bank, Turks Bank and nearby Mouchoir and Silver banks butt up to vertiginous cliffs that plunge more than a mile below the surface. This interface of shallow and deep has created an aquatic wonderland below and a feast for the eyes above. The mottled tourmaline and laser-like jade of the shallows fades to ultramarine and then deepest cobalt just offshore. There are many islands with beautiful water, but the colors here are unique and unequalled.
2 Grace Bay
Rimming the north shore of Providenciales island is one of the best beaches in the region. Period. The sand is soft, the beach is wide, and the water that licks at the toes of the joggers, walkers and sunbathers is bathtub warm and gin clear. It’s hard to believe that a few short decades back, there were zero resorts on this beach. The beach itself is public, so you can walk it end to end and check out the many styles and varieties of accommodations along the way. Many have pools overlooking the beach and most have loungers set up for their guests, with territorial boundaries marked by different colors of umbrellas— one resort all pink, another all white. If you make the seven-mile hike along the full length, you’ll find plenty of rest stops where one can relax on a shaded deck and enjoy a nosh and an ultra-cold Turks Head lager.
3 Short Hop
Despite its emphatically off-the-beaten-track atmosphere, it’s very easy to get to the Turks and Caicos from the eastern United States. There are direct flights from Miami, Atlanta and New York. Flying time is 90 minutes from Miami, three hours from Atlanta and four hours from New York. The proximity, access and atmosphere have attracted New York’s glitterati class, who’ve discovered a place in the sun they can get to—and reliably get back from—over a long weekend.
4 Hip & Chic
The spillover of high expectations from celebrity and high-power corporate visitors has created a demand for chic on Providenciales and raised the bar for restaurants and other services across the board. The dusty days of undersupplied general stores is long gone, and, while there aren’t any Lilly Pulitzer stores as of yet, the boutiques at the more expensive resorts do offer exceptionally stylish and appropriately pricey clothing and accessories. Parrot Cay and Amanyara resorts cater to the trend conscious, and the general tone on Provo is genteel and well- heeled.
5 Gone Troppo
While the power players concentrate at the priciest places, plenty of accommodations throughout the country cater to those placed otherwise on the economic scale. There are high-value (though not necessarily inexpensive) accommodations on Provo in the condo-tel vein and even more located in private homes and apartments around the island. Once away from Provo’s population center, you’ll find guesthouses, B&Bs and small boutique hotels of all stripes. It’s possible to go completely troppo, rent a small room for a month and barely feel it in your bank account. Instead of perusing an extensive wine list, you can spend your time chowing down on fresh conch ceviche, snorkeling untrammeled reefs and exploring uninhabited islets.
6 Conched Out
The competition among restaurants, especially on Provo, has created a surprising and robust culinary culture. Food on the island is well above average for the region, and the best is on par with the swank eateries of South Beach or SoHo. The secret? Seafood—ultra fresh and lots of it. Provo has the world’s only conch farm, and the national dish is conch and grits (yes, grits—the island was colonized by planters from the American South). You may have fallen in love with conch fritters in the Bahamas or Key West, but the chefs here have taken them to a whole new plane of existence. In addition to tender, juicy conch served ceviche, Creole and cracked, there’s grouper, snapper, mahimahi, tuna and more caught in the morning and served to you by lunch. Most menus offer them in relatively simple dishes, but that just lets the incredible flavor shine more.
7 Submersible Behavior
Midway between the beaches and the ocean depths are shallow coral reefs that provide hours of exploration and underwater cliff faces that tempt scuba-equipped divers to delve a little deeper. On a number of islands, access to these coral gardens requires nothing more than a short swim from shore, while tour services deliver passengers to more distant reefs in a flotilla of craft that range from sleek speedboats to relaxed sailing catamarans. Operators offer a range of half-day adventures, but some of the best sites are reserved for all-day trips that include stops on deserted beaches.
8 Silence!
If you’re looking for uncrowded, this is it. The mid-winter holidays will bring out a crowd in some parts of Grace Bay as snowbirds descend on the loungers, but even on comparatively bustling Provo, if you want your own private stretch of sand, you can find it. Head around the corner past Northwest Point and you’ll have your pick of empty beaches. If you’re staying on one of the other islands, merely heading a few hundred yards away from the resort’s beach will get you all the elbow room you could want and, often, your own private reef to snorkel.
9 Explore
The dearth of population also means no Disney-esque lines at the few well-known tourist sites or any of the scores of cool, but lesser-known, attractions: There are caves on Middle Caicos, 200-year-old graffiti atop Sapodilla Hill, salt pans on South Caicos and Salt Cay, a tidal estuary on Grand Turk plus hundreds of rocky islets all wrapped in a mantle of unfathomable depths.
10 The People
The majority of Turks Islanders are descended from Bermudian salt rakers, brought here to gather and bag salt deposits evaporated from seawater. They’re gracious hosts, only too happy to welcome visitors to the islands. The tourist economy means that just about anyone who wants a job can have one, which also means that crime is very infrequent. You’ll meet people who are genuinely glad you’re there and are anxious to help you have a good time.
Hawaii’s Natural Wonders
Hawaii is home to so many spectacular sights it’s nearly impossible to picture just one iconic landscape when imagining the state’s natural beauty. Sprawling beaches, towering coastal cliffs, tropical rainforests, volcanoes and red-hot lava flows are just a few of the picturesque scenes the islands provide—not to mention the bounty of bays and lagoons that make for stunning views of the Pacific Ocean.
The Caribbean’s Most Romantic Moments
Between the soft, enveloping trade winds and the scent of hibiscus and frangipani they carry, it’s a cold heart indeed that doesn’t feel at least a little romantic in the Caribbean. Almost any moonlit beach or relaxed restaurant can be the launching pad for love, but there are some special times and places that you should experience for yourself. Here are our picks for the Caribbean’s most romantic moments.
Picnic at Fort Rodney, Pigeon Island, St. Lucia
“A Book of Verses underneath the Bough / A Jug of Wine, a Loaf of Bread / and Thou Beside me singing in the Wilderness….” Omar Khayyam never saw Pigeon Island on St. Lucia, but no doubt it was just this sort of place he had in mind when he wrote his famous quatrain. Pack your bread and wine and head up the hiking trail to Fort Rodney. The view from on top is magnificent, sweeping across Rodney Bay and Reduit Beach. The fort and bay are named for Admiral George Rodney, who bedeviled the French, Spanish and Dutch fleets in the 18th century. There are cannons commanding the seaway leading to Gros Islet and plenty of spots to sprawl on a blanket in the shade of the ruined fortifications.
Equinox, Temple of Kukulkán, Mexico
Both mysterious and mystical, the Maya temples of the Yucatan make you feel the vastness of time and spark appreciation for the pleasures and people of the present. A short drive from Cancun, the largest structure at Chichén Itzá is “El Castillo,” the Temple of Kukulkán, the Feathered Serpent. On the spring and autumn equinoxes, the steps that ascend the pyramid cast a moving shadow that looks like a large, feathered snake slowly crawling down the structure’s stone side. Avoid the hordes of addled New Agers by visiting a few days before or after the equinox. The serpent will still appear and you can enjoy each other’s company without so many spectators. How considerate of the Mayan astronomers to put on a light show just for the two of you.
Sunset at the Rogativa Statue, San Juan, Puerto Rico
The stone fortifications that protected San Juan have been stout enough to survive for more than 400 years. But in 1797, the city was almost forced to surrender to British troops. Sir Ralph Abercrombie and his invasion fleet lay at anchor in the harbor. The bishop of San Juan recruited scores of women and led a torchlight parade, called a rogativa, atop the city’s walls to pray for deliverance. Seeing the huge procession of torches, the Brits concluded the town had been massively reinforced. The hoisted their anchors and sailed away in the night. A statue commemorating the event stands in the Plazuela Rogativa overlooking San Juan Harbor. At sunset, the city walls and the statue are bathed in a glow thick and sweet as orange marmalade while the lights blink on across the opposite shore.
Altos de Chavon, La Romana, Dominican Republic
Perched on the heights overlooking the languid Chavon River in southeastern Dominican Republic, Altos de Chavon is a re-creation of a 16th century Mediterranean village. Cobblestone streets meander past small shops, art galleries and restaurants, while a broad walkway along the cliff’s edge invites extended gazing over a rolling landscape that encompasses the Casa de Campo golf course. Head over to St. Stanislaus Church and sit in the niche that holds the church’s bell to watch the bougainvillea lining the ravine glow as the sun disappears. Afterward, enjoy a long, lingering dinner.
Sunrise, Pink Sands Beach, Bahamas
The east side of Harbour Island, just off Eleuthera in the central Bahamas, is rimmed by three glorious miles of pink sand. The beach is wide and lapped by gentle waves muffled by the offshore reef. The distinctive color comes from tiny foraminifera, single-celled organisms that create a pink shell. They die by the millions to create a colorful carpet for lovers. Get to the beach before the sun comes up and watch as the first tendrils of light skip across the tops of the waves onto the sand. Work up your various appetites before heading back to your hotel for breakfast and a rest.
The Tropicana, Havana, Cuba
This is the Caribbean’s original den of iniquity. Although not quite as lively as it was pre- Castro when it was run by mobsters Meyer Lansky and Santo Trafficante Jr., the stage show at the Tropicana celebrates the primal Afro-Caribbean rhythms of Cuba and serves them up with plenty of skin and sizzle. A night in the Salon Bajo las Estrellas with scantily clad dancers scampering along catwalks in the towering trees that line the outdoor showroom will have you feeling the heat.
Swimming in the Bahia Fosforescente, Parguera, Puerto Rico
On the southwest coast of Puerto Rico near La Parguera is a bay with a shallow entrance that traps microscopic bioluminescent critters. Find a local guide with a small boat, take your mask and snorkel and head out on a moonless night. Test the waters by trailing your hand overboard—when you find the plankton, the friction of your fingers will cause them to glow bright green. Slip overboard and watch in amazement as the two of you literally light up the night.
South Walton: 10 Reasons to Go
The beach neighborhoods of Northwest Florida surprise with unexpected natural beauty-Gulf waters, coastal dune lakes, forested rivers-and the sophisticated accommodations here give it a style you won’t find elsewhere in Florida. Book a two-story beach house for a week, choose sun-bleached Mediterranean-style accommodations or reserve a room at a SoBe-style boutique hotel. Tucked in these fashionable beach communities are buzzy bars and restaurants, along with art galleries and trendy boutiques all run by some of the friendliest folks around.
1 No. 1 Reason: The Beach
The Gulf beaches in Northwest Florida are carved out of the whitest sand and when the sunlight hits them just right, they look like glistening snow drifts. Together with crystal-clear calm waters, transparent enough to see the soft bottom of the sea, the South Walton beaches will quickly become your favorite stretch after one visit. These are the ideal shores for walking, building sand castles and having a beach picnic. And when ready, take a plunge in the warm waters or rent a paddleboard and work out your muscles.
2 Beach Communities
Scenic Highway 30-A is a two-lane road that hugs the beachside as it zips through a collection of very cool beach communities, 16 in total and each with its own personality. Sand dunes and sea oats surround the eclectic houses that rise up. You’ll be hard pressed to pick your favorite neighborhood, so to start, check out our favorites: Seaside, Santa Rosa Beach, Alys Beach and Grayton Beach.
3 Vacation Rental, the Optimum Way to Go
Yes, you can come for the weekend, but with a huge selection of beach homes for rent it would be a shame not to stay longer. Two-story houses, with rooftop balconies perfect for cocktail hour and beach watching, line the Gulf. Smaller bungalows are tucked behind picket fences a couple of blocks from the shore, and homes with a bleached- white Mediterranean vibe pepper the offerings. Inside designers have perked up interiors with nautical decors, rustic country looks and colors that make you feel as if it’s summer year-round. Bonus: All are within walking distance of the shore and all worthy of a spot in Architectural Digest.
4 Taste of the Beach
When the summer crowds are gone, South Walton hosts Taste of the Beach, a full-blown foodie fest, in November when days are warm and nights are cool. With events from tastings to wine-paired dinners held throughout the area, you have your pick. Saturday’s Seeing Red tasting sprawls throughout Seaside with music on stage and hundreds of booths for sampling the latest vintages. A retail tent is brimming with cases of wine, so when you find your favorite vino, you can stock up right there.
5 YOLO Boarding
They say the sport of stand-up paddleboarding was introduced to Florida here by Jeff Archer and Tom Losee, who created the company YOLO Board (yes, you got it: “you only live once”)—and the perfectly designed paddleboard. These guys know the waterways well and happily direct vacationers to the best coastal dune lakes, forested rivers and of course the Gulf of Mexico for a super SUP experience.
6 Southern Vibe
Everything Southern—accents, hospitality, sweet tea and barbecue— can be found in South Walton. With its proximity to Georgia, Alabama, Mississippi and Louisiana, South Walton is a big draw for vacationers from the U.S. South in search of a beach town with style.
7 Teeing Off
For some, a vacation is never complete without a game of golf. The area boasts 207 holes of golf, and some of the prettiest courses sit near the Gulf. Camp Creek Golf Club blends nature’s blues and greens with watery scenes and plenty of native plants. There are even signs to identify the saw palmetto, marsh hay cordgrass, muhly grass, Gulf cordgrass and live oak that made this course so pleasant to play.
8 Seaside Stroll
One of the most popular neighborhoods is Seaside, where beach and commerce blend. Stop for lunch at Airstream Row, a line of silver trailers with food vendors serving everything from oozing grilled cheese sandwiches to fluffy cupcakes. Poke into the shops on Central Square and then meander over to Ruskin Artists Colony, where the first Friday of every month an art walk takes place. A Gulf-side open-air market is another fun stop where shoppers find sun hats and beach gear. At dusk join the sunset gazers on Bud & Alley’s deck for a cold beer, try the local brew Grayton IPA.
9 Eco Exploring
Forty percent of the land in South Walton is preserved for state parks, dune lakes and coastal forest. Topsail Hill Preserve State Park has three miles of white quartz sand beaches with majestic dunes standing more than 25 feet tall; its trails are ideal for walking and biking. Morris Springs Park has a spring pool with cavities that lead to an underground chamber and is the area’s most popular dive spot. Grayton Beach State Park, with its sugar sands nestled between the Gulf’s emerald waters and rolling dunes covered with sea oats, is picturesque, but it’s also home to the Western Lake and a salt marsh ecosystem, making it a favorite spot with boaters.
10 Where to Sleep
WaterColor Inn & Resort may be the only mega property on Scenic Highway 30-A, but it certainly doesn’t feel big. As part of the WaterColor community, guests can bicycle the neighborhood, launch a kayak from the boathouse and find plenty of dining and shopping options steps from their room. In neighboring Grayton Beach, one of the first communities, Hibiscus Coffee & Guesthouse is a real find. Enjoy cozy Old Florida-style rooms and breakfast in the garden. Those looking for a cool SoBe-style vibe find it at the Pearl, a stunning boutique hotel tucked in Rosemary Beach. The second level overlooks the swimming pool, and its cabanas are comfy spots from which to admire the seashore and surrounding architecture.
St. Pete Beach: 10 Reasons to Go
Soft sugary sand contrasting with the glorious blue Gulf of Mexico is the only thing the communities along St. Pete Beach have in common. After that each stretch has its own mood and personality, so depending on what you want—action or relaxation—you’ll find it here. Kick it up a notch with a kiteboard lesson or let the captain lead the way on a fishing charter. Landlubbers can sightsee by trolley or hang out on the sands. Just take your pick because this beach town has plenty to offer.
1 A Beach for your Mood
From pristine to party central, St. Pete Beach delivers. Somewhere on the 15 blissful miles that extend south from Madeira Beach (Mad Beach, to locals) to Fort De Soto Park’s five islands, you’ll find spots that are frenetic and fun-loving, mild-mannered and mellow—most just a quick walk to a tiki bar or shopping. Surfers hang five or ten off the coast of Upham Beach, one of the few surfable areas along the Gulf. Fort De Soto’s beaches are best for families, thanks to a surf-taming sandbar, and boat-only Shell and Egmont keys are perfect for couples. The historic fishing town of Pass-A-Grille boasts the longest stretch of undeveloped beachfront sans high-rises.
2 Water Sports of all Sorts
Whether you crave the adrenaline rush of soaring above the water or tamer pursuits close to sea level, you’ll find your calling. Kayak dark and narrow mangrove tunnels in the 3,700-acre Weedon Island Preserve or paddleboard along the Gulf Coast. The more adventurous take to the sky on a kiteboard or windsurf at Pass-A-Grille. Want the ultimate water-borne experience? Tradewinds Island Resorts offers public rentals of its futuristic water-powered JetLev and electric surfboards.
3 Explore Pirate Lore
Truth be told, the legend of Gaspar, the notorious pirate said to have trolled the waters around the apropos named Treasure Island, is often disputed: Did he really exist? Nevertheless, St. Pete Beach embraces the swashbuckling past and the documented history of smugglers who did exist around Pass-A-Grille. The Pirate Ship at John’s Pass Village and Boardwalk offers two-hour seafaring missions aboard a replica pirate ship flying the Jolly Roger and onboard water-gun battles, treasure hunts and plenty of pirate tales.
4 Gulf Sunsets
By land or by sea, you’ll be drawn to the Gulf come sunset. Salute the greatest show on earth with a Ka’Tiki Sunset shot at the tiki bar of the same name on Sunset Beach, one of the area’s most secluded and best- kept secrets. Join the nightly sunset celebration at Pass-A-Grille’s Paradise Grill or set sail aboard the Shell Key Shuttle’s sunset cruise with a picnic basket and favorite vintage.
5 Great Seafood
Madeira Beach claims the title “Grouper Capital of the World,” and local restaurants serve signature presentations of the Gulf-caught fish. Dockside Dave’s half-pound battered sandwich is legendary, earning kudos as best in the South. Billy’s Stonecrab, Seafood & Steaks, in Tierra Verde near Fort De Soto, prepares grouper five ways and is the go-to place for succulent stone crab claws during Florida’s October-to- May season. Other fish dishes to suit your palate include the smoked mullet at the cash-only Ted Peters Famous Smoked Fish, a St. Pete institution.
6 Drive Downtown
If you’re shocked by any recommendation to visit St. Petersburg’s bay- front downtown, chances are you haven’t ventured to the city recently. The past decades has seen the rise of towering condos, top-shelf locally owned restaurants and lounges, boutiques, speakeasies and the arts, all just 10 miles from the beach on Tampa Bay. Plan to spend at least a day.
7 For the Birds
Shell Key and Weedon Island preserves are just two of the stops along Florida’s 2,000-mile Great Birding Trail. Visit at dawn for your best chance of spotting snowy egrets, brown pelicans, pileated woodpeckers and the magnificent great blue heron, some reaching nearly 4 feet tall with 6-foot wingspans. Continue your bird immersion at Suncoast Seabird Sanctuary in nearby Indian Shores, America’s largest nonprofit wild bird hospital and home to Isis, a red-tailed hawk who serves as the mascot, as well as an adorable burrowing owl and other feathered friends in rehab.
8 Stop Wishing, Get Fishing
St. Pete Beach is an angler’s dream with so many opportunities—from offshore deep sea, flats and coastal fishing—and experienced captains who know the best spots; you won’t go home with tales of the one that got away. Charter a boat at marinas anywhere along the coast in search of trout, snook, redfish, grouper and Florida’s No. 1 game fish: the mighty tarpon, appropriately nicknamed the silver king for its massive size and fight.
9 Ditch the Car
The Suncoast Beach Trolley spans the entire St. Pete Beach coast—from Madeira Beach to Pass-A-Grille—and operates from 5 a.m. to 10 p.m. daily and until midnight on Friday and Saturday. With such a convenience, it’s all the more reason to stop-hop during the day or check out the local nightlife at Postcard Inn on the Beach.
10 A Date with Your Dog
St. Pete is one of Florida’s friendliest cities for canine companions, and properties like the storied Loews Don CeSar Hotel and Tradewinds Island Resorts go out of their way to deliver creature comforts, including special play areas, spa services and gourmet dog-approved cuisine. Boutiques on Corey Avenue in St. Pete Beach’s downtown historic district cater specifically to pets, and restaurants along the coast have designated doggie decks. Fort De Soto’s off-leash beach and Paw Playground is the Disney of dogdom.
50 Shades of Blue: Anguilla Beaches
Anguilla is known for two things: luxury resorts and beautiful sand beaches. In all, the island offers 33 gorgeous stretches of powdery white sands formed from crushed coral and washed by clear aquamarine waters. Whether it’s a walk on the shoreline, a dip in the water or some downtime in a chaise lounge, beach going simply doesn’t get any better than here.
Honduras: 10 Reasons to Go
A longtime favorite with scuba divers and beach-combing backpackers, Honduras is just beginning to hit the mainstream tourism radar. With hundreds of miles of undeveloped beaches, rich tropical forest preserves, wild rivers and verdant mountain slopes, the country is increasingly gaining the attention of the eco-travel crowd. In addition, a number of resort projects are underway along the coasts that promise to lure sunseekers to some of the Caribbean’s most pristine beaches. For these reasons and more, Honduras deserves a space in the vacation planner.
1 Island Styles
The Bay Islands—Roatán, Utila and Guanaja—lie some 20 miles off the Honduran mainland, and near the edge of the vast Mesoamerican Reef. They are the number one tourism destination in Honduras. Divers from around the world come for clear waters and pristine coral, but one doesn’t have to submerge to appreciate the area’s aquatic charms and beach culture vibe.
2 Stone Works
The remains of the historic Mayan city of Copan contains the finest and most complete collection of pre-Columbian sculptures, friezes and hieroglyphics ever discovered. Occupied for more than 2,000 years, this site is the most studied Mayan city in the world, and the leading tourism draw on the Honduran mainland. The nearby modern village of the same name offers lodging and numerous restaurants, and the area is well served by bus and taxi.
3 Green Spaces
Honduras is becoming Central America’s newest eco-tourism destination—and with good reason. Nearly one third of the country is encompassed in national parks, wildlife reserves or under some other form of protection. Together, these 91 protected areas are three-fourths the size of the entire country of Costa Rica, and include eight distinct biospheres ranging from coral reefs and coastal swamps to rainforests and mountain woodlands.
4 Coastal Charms
Tela Bay and its namesake coastal village have evolved from a historic port and railhead into the mainland’s leading beach destination. A five- mile crescent of sand accommodates a collection of waterfront resorts. Just to the west are the coves and lagoons of Punta Sal National Park, once the haunt of pirates, and now a haven for more than 350 species of birds. Also in the area, you’ll find the village of Miami, which is a center point of traditional Garifuna culture, and Lancetilla Botanical Garden, which is the second largest tropical botanical garden in the world.
5 Growing Concerns
Crops thrive in Honduras soil. Bananas, once the single largest factor in the country’s economy, are still an important export, but farmers have diversified. Rich varieties of coffee grow in the Comayagua Mountains, while pineapples, melons and a cornucopia of tropical fruits can be picked fresh from fields and groves. Restaurants through the country incorporate local ingredients into both traditional and international menus, while some of the freshest tastes come right from village markets and farms across the land.
6 The Next Place
Once the nation’s capital during Spanish Colonial times, the sleepy coastal town of Trujillo overlooks one of the country’s best beaches. The completion of a new pier and the arrival of the first small cruise ship in the spring of 2014 have the town poised for a new era of resort development. Currently these plans are sufficiently modest to ensure the destination retains its small-town appeal while providing better lodging and dining options.
7 Coffee Klatch
Volcanic soils and cool highlands provide ideal conditions for growing fine coffee, and Honduras is the America’s second largest producer of the bean. Coffee lovers can savor local artisanal blends or fully immerse themselves in the culture by visiting one of several farms that offer tastings, facility tours and hiking or horseback expeditions through the plantations and surrounding slopes.
8 Game Faces
Soccer is not just the primary sport of Honduras; it is a passion that permeates the culture, from the impromptu games played at village squares across the country to non-stop sports talk at local cafes and the international competitions staged at the Estadio Olimpico in San Pedro Sula. When the national team is playing, it is not uncommon for business to close early and workers to take the day off.
9 High Water
Ten-mile-long Lake Yojoa is a cool freshwater oasis sitting at an elevation of 2,000 feet in the country’s central highlands. Surrounded by the wooded slopes of volcanic peaks, it’s a haven for bird life and a favorite with fishermen. A signature dish at many of the small shoreside restaurants is fried bass pulled fresh from the lake.
10 The Other Side
Honduras meets two oceans, but only a small fraction of its 560 miles of coastline lie on the Pacific side. Mangrove lowlands dominate much of this region, with a 20-mile canal cut through the greenery to connect the port city of San Lorenzo to the Gulf of Fonseca. This small city, dating back to the 16th century, serves as a staging point for tours into the wetlands and excursions to volcanic Amapala Island, which rises more than 2,500 feet from the surrounding waters and is ringed by black sand beaches.
Panama: 10 Reasons to Go
If you think Panama is just a short cut for ships, there’s much to discover. The lands surrounding the famous canal offer a rich mixture of big city amenities, rural charms and natural attractions. From idyllic palm- fringed Caribbean islands to virgin rainforests and Pacific surf, Panama is a land that rewards the traveler with unexpected delights.
1 The Big Ditch
You’ve known about the Panama Canal since elementary school geography. Now, it’s time to see this historic engineering marvel for yourself. Visit the museum, watch ships from around the world go through the locks and take in the view from the Bridge of the Americas. For the ultimate canal experience, you can even book a single-day cruise through the locks and Lake Gatun.
2 The Ocean’s Abundance
The name Panama is said to mean abundance of fish. With more than 1,500 miles of coastline fronting both the Atlantic and Pacific oceans and hundreds of offshore islands and shoals, the surrounding waters provide a rich habitat to nurture aquatic resources. This bounty delights not only anglers, who make pilgrimages to renowned fishing resorts such as the Tropic Star Lodge, but also restaurateurs, who turn the catch of the day into a range of fresh, savory offerings.
3 Prosperous Times
Panama has the fastest growing economy in Central America, spurred by a vibrant banking industry, and upgrades to the canal system that will soon allow larger ships to pass. Signs of this prosperity are evident throughout Panama City, from the gleaming high-rises along the waterfront and downtown’s upscale eateries to urban retail venues where designer labels dominate.
4 Nature Nearby
You don’t have to go far in Panama to transition from urban amenities to natural attractions. For a day trip with a lighter dose of nature, you can visit rainforest parks such as the Summit Botanical Gardens or take the ferry to Isla Taboga. The more adventurous can sign on for coastal snorkeling and kayaking excursions, hike the forests of Changres National Park, explore an underground river near Lake Bayano or whitewater raft on the Rio Boqueron.
5 Crossroads of the Americas
Not only a geographic midpoint between North and South America, Panama is also a cultural crucible that’s been dynamically evolving since the days the Spanish first arrived. The region is still home to seven Native American cultures, has both African and Eastern influences and, for more than a century, has seen a substantial U.S. presence.
6 Eco Ethics
Scattered throughout the green highlands and the country’s numerous coastal islands are a number of nature-themed lodges built from native materials, powered by sunlight and serving up locally grown fare. This trend is both a reflection of ecological consciousness and logistical practicality. In venues where electricity and roadways are scarce, but natural bounty abundant, it makes sense to live closer to the land.
7 Island Connection
Some of the fill excavated for the canal was used to create a three-mile- long earth jetty connecting the mainland to a trio of small islands just off the coast of Panama City. Known as the Amador Causeway, it has become a favorite venue for walkers and cyclists—though you can also catch a cab out to Perico, Culebra, Flamenco and Naos islands to enjoy the cafes, shops and ocean views of ship traffic. The Smithsonian’s Marine Exhibition Center is also worth a visit.
8 A Taste of China
Chinese immigrants have been adding their cultural spice to Panama’s ethnic mix ever since the first railway workers arrived in the late 1800s. For many years, a significant portion of the country’s retail network was owned by Chinese merchants, and there are still a number of ethnic communities known as barrios chinos. More recent immigrants from Taiwan and Hong Kong have assimilated into the national cultural mix more readily, but reminders of their heritage can be found in some of the best Chinese restaurants in the entire Americas.
9 Archipelagos Aplenty
Panama’s coasts are punctuated by a number of archipelagos worthy of a visit. On the Caribbean side, hard up against the Costa Rican border, the Bocas Del Toros deliver the beachcomber lifestyle, with clear waters, white sands and funky waterfront cafes and lodges. Some 230 miles to the east, the equally beautiful and even more remote San Blas Islands offer true solitude—only 40 of these 360 small green gems are inhabited. Move to the Pacific, where cooler aquamarine waters wash the shores, and you can choose from the white sand beaches of the Pearl Islands, the isolation of the Chiriquí Archipelago or the natural attractions of Coiba, once a notorious prison island, but now a wildlife refuge.
10 Altitude Adjustment
Panama’s western highlands provide a cool respite from the tropical coasts. Here, the Boquete Valley, often called the Valley of the Flowers, is surrounded by green-clad peaks where nature reigns and adventures await. There’s the Volcán Barú National Park for hiking, Rio Chiriquí Viejo for world-class whitewater rafting and kayaking, and the Caldera volcanic area for relaxing soaks in natural hot springs. From the country’s highest point on Volcán Barú, you can gaze down on two oceans.