Tag Archives: St. Vincent & the Grenadines

Nassau Christmas

Five Unique Caribbean Christmas Traditions

 

Like much of the world, the Caribbean celebrates the Christmas holiday season with music, lights, food and gift giving. But islanders have also created a number of their own traditions, adding even more cheer to the end of the year. Here are five celebrations that are unique to the Caribbean.

A Different White Christmas

If you wake up on Christmas morning in Grand Cayman Island and see front yards covered in a blanket of white, you aren’t imagining things. Lacking snow, islanders created the tradition of the Sand Yard. Starting in late October, buckets of white beach sand are carried to homes, and deposited in piles in the front yard. On December 24th, piles are raked into even blankets of white, and are not to be stepped on until Christmas morning. The tradition has faded in urban areas, but may still be seen in traditional neighborhoods.

Pre-dawn Parties

For more than 100 years, residents of St. Vincent have started celebrating the Christmas season early. Literally. Starting at around 5 am on the 16th of the month, the Nine Mornings Celebration gets underway with parades, concerts, dances and group bike rides that end in ocean swims. Festivities wrap up around 7 o’clock and everyone heads off to work, ready to repeat the fun every morning through December 24. In many areas, the final morning’s celebration culminates with a steel band “jump up” party.

Christmas With a Bang

In the Dominican Republic the Christmas season kicks off in October, launching three months of parties, special meals and traditions such as Double Sueldo—an extra month’s pay to help fund the holidays. The biggest party of the season, Noche Buena, takes place on Christmas Eve, and in the weeks leading up to this gathering of friends and family, the skies come alive in impromptu barrages of fireworks. Known as fuegos artificiales, this tradition borders on a national obsession, and everyone gets in on the noisy fun.

Next Day Giving

The December 26 observance of Boxing Day began in England when employers and masters would reward their servants and employees with a seasonal gift box. The tradition continues on Caribbean islands with strong British heritages such as Barbados, where this post-Christmas holiday provides a chance to make the neighborhood rounds and drop off gifts to friends and relatives, then enjoy a picnic or beach outing.

Taking It to the Streets

In the early hours of December 26th, thousands of elaborately costumed dancers parade on the streets of downtown Nassau. The night comes alive with the rhythms of goatskin drums, cowbells, whistles and horns. Crowds of onlookers line sidewalks and the balconies of nearby buildings. The procession culminates with a pass by the judge’s stands for a chance with cash prizes and awards. Smaller versions of Junkanoo are staged on other islands, and the entire spectacle repeats on January 1.

 

Belize Hol Chan Reef Scene

The Caribbean’s Best Snorkel Sites

 

The Caribbean is home to thousands of snorkel-worthy beaches and reefs, and I’ve spent hundreds of hours exploring sites near and far. For the optimum combination of calm water, easy access, vibrant coral growth, abundant fish life and sheer variety, here are my favorites.

Kline Bonaire

Coral reefs start close to shore all along Bonaire’s sheltered western coastline, but the most colorful sites are a short boat ride away. A five- minute ride across calm water brings you to the low-lying, uninhabited shores of Kline Bonaire. Your boat captain can choose from one of more than two dozen sites based on conditions, and my consistent favorite begins right off No Name Beach, where hard and soft coral growth starts in as little as five feet of water.

Bonaire Klein Turtles

Sea turtles are often seen along the shoreline of deserted Kline Bonaire island, which is just a short boat ride from dive resorts on the west coast of Bonaire. Photo: Alejandro Gutierrez/ Tourism Corporation Bonaire

Anse Chastanet, St. Lucia

I’ve spent hours watching the fish life on Anse Chastanet Reef, but every so often, I find myself pausing to admire the view above the water. A foreground of golden sand and jungle green frame the towering profiles of St. Lucia’s most famous landmarks, the Pitons. Just a short swim from shore, a coral-covered plateau presents an undulating profile that rises within five feet of the surface, and then falls from 20 feet to depths of more than 100. In addition to large schools of tropical fish, this site is known for its small invertebrates, giving critter spotters hours of enjoyable hunting.

St Lucia Anse Chastanet Snorkeling

On the island of St. Lucia, the twin spires of the Pitons provide a dramatic backdrop for snorkelers exploring the near shore reefs at Anse Chastanet. Photo: Bernd Rac/Anse Chastanet Resort

The Indians, British Virgin Islands

Between the bareboat fleets, tour operators and private boaters, you’ll seldom find the waters around the rock pinnacles known as the Indians deserted. But that’s OK, there’s plenty of coral-covered reef to go around. I especially enjoy the steep cliff faces to the west, where seas are calmest and the underwater landscape is the most dramatic. The usual roster of reef characters there in abundance, including blue tangs, queen angels and a colorful assortment of parrotfish. Peek into the crevices and you might discover an eel or lobster lurking in the shadows.

BVI the Indians Rocks

The distinctive rock pinnacles known as the Indians are the most popular snorkeling destination in the British Virgin Islands, offering clear water and colorful corals. Photo: BVI Tourist Board

Puerto Morelos, Mexico

Cancun isn’t known for great snorkeling. But drive a few miles south to the sleepy fishing village of Puerto Morelos, and you’re just a short boat ride from the Yucatan’s premier national marine park. The coral gardens begin a half-mile from the beach, and there are always a number of panga-style launches on the beach, with gregarious crews ready to provide guided snorkel tours of the park. Depths are typically less than 10 feet, making it easy to spot the menagerie of reef creatures that flit through the sea fans and coral fingers.

Puerto Morales Mexico Reef Fish Snorkel

A short distance south of Cancun, the national marine park at Puerto Morales features protected reefs rich in fish life and corals. Photo: Adam Saltman/Flickr

Smith’s Reef, Turks & Caicos

There are literally hundreds of miles of pristine shallow reef to explore around the islands of the Turks & Caicos. When I’m staying on Providenciales, and don’t feel like a boat ride, there’s no need to go far. Right off the beach is a three-mile expanse of coral heads and sea grass shallows known as Smith’s Reef. I sometimes enjoy searching the grass beds for hidden critters, but it’s the coral heads that hold the greatest variety of life. To locate a coral patch from shore, look for the patches of water that have a brownish tint, which indicates hard bottom.

Turks and Caicos Smiths Reef

On the island of Providenciales in the Turks & Caicos island group, the coral heads of Smith’s Reef start just offshore of the Turtle Cove Marina and stretch for three miles to the east. Photo: Turks & Caicos Tourist Board

Exumas Land and Sea Park, Bahamas

In the heart of the Bahamas, the Exuma Land and Sea Park encompasses dozens of islands and miles of protected reef. The best way to explore the fish-laden waters of this aquatic preserve is by signing up for a half or full day boat tour. The guides will not only know which sites are best based on tides and weather, they will also put you on to a number of additional adventures such as a swim through the hidden grotto from the James Bond film Thunderball, or a visit to the famous swimming pigs of the Exumas.

Exumas Bahamas Land Sea Park

The Exumas Land and Sea Park encompasses a number of small islands and thousands of acres of shoals and reefs ideal for swimming and snorkeling. Photo: Darryl Massaro/Flickr

Hol Chan Marine Reserve, Belize

Belize’s original marine reserve packs a lot of underwater diversity into a relatively small area. Hol Chan is the Mayan phrase for “little channel” and when snorkelers arrive at this cut in the reef after an easy boat ride from Ambergris Caye, they are treated to spur and grove coral formations, sea brass beds and mangrove nurseries. Most tours also take in the site’s famous Shark Ray Alley, where southern stingrays and nurse sharks gather to nosh on fishy morsels offered by dive guides. The interaction is safe, and will put you right in the middle of the action.

Belize Hol Chan Nurse Sharks

Nurse sharks gather in the shallow waters of Belize’s Hol Chan Marine Reserve in anticipation of a free meal of fish scraps. These placid reef dwellers pose no danger to humans. Photo: iStock

Buck Island, St. Croix

It’s been more than 50 years since Buck Island Reef was declared a National Monument, and it’s still one of the Caribbean’s most popular snorkel sites. Located off the northeastern shore of St. Croix, Buck Island offers deserted white sand beaches and an encircling reef dominated by branching Elkhorn formations and groves of undulating sea fans. An underwater snorkel trail leads through the coral maze, which is home to hawksbill sea turtles. Shallow depths put swimmers face to face with the many tropical fish that seek shelter in the branching arms of the corals.

St Croix USVI Buck Island

St. Croix’s Buck Island National Monument includes a white sand beach and one of the most extensive groves of elkhorn corals in the Caribbean. Photo: Steve Simonsen/ US Virgin Island Department of Tourism

De Palm Island, Aruba

A visit to Aruba’s De Palm Island is part snorkel trip, part beach party. Located just off the main island’s southern coast, this all-inclusive day resort offers half and full day experiences that include beachside buffets, libations, entertainment and guided tours to the nearby reef, which is one of the best on the island. Snorkel equipment and instruction are included in the price of admission, and while water conditions are beginner friendly, the underwater landscape offers plenty to keep even veteran snorkelers enthralled.

Aruba De Palm Island

De Palm Island is located just off the coast of Aruba. Guests who come for an all-inclusive beach day can enjoy guided or individual snorkeling on reefs just off the beach. Photo: De Palm Tours

Horseshoe Reef, Tobago Cays

I love to swim with sea turtles, and one of the best places to do this in the southern Caribbean is in the Tobago Cays. This collection of five uninhabited islands lies just east of Mayreau in the southern Grenadines. It became a wildlife reserve in 2006, and is home to a colorful array of marine life— including a population of resident turtles. The formation known as Horseshoe Reef encircles four of the five islands to create calm conditions for snorkeling. Portions of the park can get a bit crowded when several tour boats arrive at once, but even on busy days I’ve always been able to slip off and find a quieter corner of the reef to enjoy.

Horseshoe Reef Snorkeling St Vincent Grenadines in Tobago Cay

In the southern Grenadines, a group of five small, uninhabited islands known as the Tobago Cays provide excellent snorkeling within the protected shallows of Horseshoe Reef. Photo: Debbie Snow

St. Vincent Vermont Nature Trail

Walk This Way: Vermont Nature Trail, St. Vincent

 

St. Vincent is one of the greenest and lushest islands in the Caribbean, and much of the central highlands remain in an unspoiled and natural state. This landscape offers plenty of great hikes on trails that pass by waterfalls, wind through rain forests and climb to the islands highest point, La Soufriere, at 4,048 feet high.

For those not up for a long, steep day of climbing, the Vermont Nature Trail offers the perfect alternative. Located within a 10,000-acre nature preserve in the island’s southern interior, this trail is just a half-hour drive from the capital of Kingston. On the way, the road passes through coconut plantations, and then climbs into the mountains to offer views of coastal valleys and bays.

The trek is fairly moderate with marked trails and informative signs noting the flora and fauna in the area. The two-mile pathway leads walkers through the Buccament Valley, with landscapes that transition from reclaimed plantation grounds and rainforests filled with towering ferns to tropical evergreen groves and stands of bamboo that reach 60 feet high.

These woodlands are home to the island’s national bird, the rare St. Vincent parrot. These birds are easy to recognize by their unmistakable call and flamboyant plumage. Birders will delight to know that the area is also a sanctuary for the crested hummingbird, red-capped green tanager, black hawk and the whistling warbler.

Tobago Cays Mayreau Salt Whistle, Grenadines

Caribbean Snapshots: Salt Whistle Bay, Mayreau, Grenadines

 

The smallest inhabited island in the Grenadines chain, Mayreau is home to just 300 people, and one of the most idyllic anchorages in the entire Caribbean. Salt Whistle Bay is a crescent moon-shaped body of water on the island’s northeast coast that offers calm, crystal clear waters for snorkelers, white sand beaches for sun worshipers and secure holding ground for the yachtsmen who drop anchor during a cruise through the islands.

Shore leave usually centers around the Salt Whistle Bay Beach Club, along with a smattering of local restaurants and open-aIr bars scattered along the beach. The island’s only settlement is just a short walk away, and the views from atop Station Hill take in the Tobago Cays, Canouan and Union Island.

Mayreau is served by an island ferry, but most visitors arrive by private boat, often during the course of a yacht charter originating in St. Vincent or Grenada. This relative isolation ensures that Salt Whistle Bay will never see cruise ship crowds, and will remain one of the Caribbean’s most memorable stopovers for those who do make landfall.

St Vincent Union Island Happy Island Bar

Caribbean Beach Bars: Happy Island, Union Island, St. Vincent

 

You won’t find Happy Island on the Admiralty charts, but it’s well known to sailors who ply the southern Caribbean. This tiny bit of dry land, which lies just to the west of St. Vincent’s Union Island, wasn’t always there. In 2002, a local visionary named Janti Ramage came up with a unique way to deal with the piles of discarded conch shells that littered island beaches. He began to collect and pile the shells on the shoal known as Newlands Reef, and after several months of manual labor, had enough recovered real estate to build on. Thus was born Happy Island.

This unique restaurant and watering hole has since become a must-do destination for charter boat crews and locals alike, though you can only approach through the surrounding shallows by small boat, or aboard a water taxi that whisks passengers over from Clifton Harbour. Island tunes, trade winds, grilled lobster and cold libations are the order of the day, and of course, a signature rum punch that has sapped the ambitions of many. Janti has since sold Happy Island, but the whimsical spirit of its creator lives on, and the Caribbean’s newest island remains one of the high points of any sailor’s voyage through St. Vincent and the Grenadines.

Cayo Espanto Belize

The Caribbean’s Most Romantic Hotels

 

The list of Caribbean hotels that make the pulse pound and your significant other look even more significant is a long one. Like beauty, romance is in the heart of the beholder. There are beach bungalows far from the madding crowd where it’s just you two and a couple of tiki torches and hotels in the middle of lively and historic cities; resorts with staff awaiting your every command and boutiques that let you be. Whatever your romantic style, here are our choice properties for your consideration.

Casa Brisa Belize

Your private sundeck awaits at Belize’s Cayo Espanto resort. This private island is just a few minutes by boat from the town of San Pedro, but a world apart from other resorts. Photo: Cayo Espanto

Isolated Splendor: Cayo Espanto, Belize

Even though it’s only three miles from bustling San Pedro, Cayo Espanto is a Caribbean cocoon, a private island with no access from the outside world save its own guest ferry. Seven villas are strategically spaced around the four-acre island to create maximum individual privacy. And each is unique: Casa Ventanas is built over the water and reached via a dock; Casa Olita has a private plunge pool, private beach and outdoor shower; Casa Estrella is two stories, with an elevated ocean view that goes on forever. On your way to the island, forego the ferry and arrive by helicopter to soak in spectacular vistas of sea and sky.

Once there, you’ll be greeted by the staff and your housemen who will take care of your every whim. The chef will drop by daily to discuss your dinner desires; your houseman will coordinate lunch and take you to a nearby deserted islet, where he’ll rake the sand to perfection and set you up with a cell phone to call him when you’re ready to return. After a delicious day of snorkeling, swimming, bonefishing or sunbathing you can return to your villa at Casa Brisa to take in the breezes or savor the sunsets from the west-facing Casa Solana, either villa is guaranteed to make your heart grow fonder. 

Dominican Republic, Santo Domingo Ovando House

The architecture of the Hostal Nicolas de Ovando incorporates a trio of 500-year-old homes that are the oldest European-built stone structures in the Americas. Photo: Serge Detalle/Ovando House

Hot in the City: Hostal Nicolas de Ovando, Santo Domingo, Dominican Republic

Nicolas de Ovando arrived in the Dominican Republic in 1502 at the head of some 2,000 colonists, leading the first organized European settlement in the New World. The hotel, Hostal Nicolas de Ovando isn’t just named for him, it’s literally in his house. Actually it’s three houses and the first European-built stone dwellings in the Americas. They were erected in 1502 along Las Damas, the first street in what would become the headquarters of Spain’s American enterprises, Santo Domingo. Listed as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO, this hotel oozes historic charm: In fact, it would be accurate to say there is no more historic hotel in the western hemisphere. The stone-walled structures enclose a central courtyard graced by a fountain and surrounded on four sides by a two-story gallery, it’s arched openings and columns a rhythmic counterpoint to the brick and stone.

Inside, the owners have done a masterful job of blending modern decor with the structure, highlighting the eccentricities of the half-millennium-old buildings rather than hiding them. The 74 rooms aren’t cookie-cutter, as they’ve been designed to work with the building. There’s a pool in a walled garden with plenty of room for lounging and just outside the door all of the charms of the colonial city. Wandering the narrow, cobblestone streets past the home of the conquistador Hernán Cortés leads you to the Alcazár de Colón, the family home built by Diego Columbus, Christopher’s son, which is now a museum. Nearby there are quaint restaurants, small shops filled with art and keepsakes and the Cathedral of Santa María la Menor, the first Catholic church in the Americas. Buy a freshly rolled cigar at the shop across the street and check out menus at the nearby restaurants until you find one with a paella and an atmosphere that suits your mood. Afterwards, head back to the Ovando house and listen to the live jazz echoing off centuries-old bricks. 

Jamaica Half Moon Resort Entrance Montego Bay

Jamaica’s Half Moon resort is a diverse and expansive property that commands a significant swath of coastline and offers private villas and cottages with direct water views. Photo: Half Moon Resort

Traditional Luxe: Half Moon, Montego Bay, Jamaica

If you suspect that the uber wealthy know something the rest of us don’t, you need no further proof than Half Moon, near Montego Bay, Jamaica. In the mid-1950s, a group of industrialists and heirs to some of America’s largest fortunes began to build winter cottages on a picturesque private beach. The cluster of cottages evolved into the full-size resort Half Moon, which attracted the rich and famous to luxuriate in the naughty atmosphere of the North Shore. Far from prying eyes in London, New York and Hollywood, celebrities could let down their hair for some serious fun. Errol Flynn spent years on the North Shore as did James Bond author Ian Fleming. JFK and Jackie stayed at Half Moon; so did Audrey Hepburn, Clark Gable, Joan Crawford and most of the current generations of British royals.

Half Moon now sprawls over 400 seaside acres, encompassing a Robert Trent Jones Sr. golf course, several dozen (that’s right, dozen) pools and a shoreline embroidered with small palm- shaded coves. There’s an equestrian center, multiple fine dining restaurants and a 68,000-square-foot spa. While you can be perfectly happy in one of the luxury rooms, if romance is what you’re reaching for, one of the original West End cottages or a Royal Villa offer the ultimate in pleasurable pampering. The residences are staffed and you’ll have a butler, cook and housekeeper making sure you want for nothing. You can loll by a private pool and just keep telling each other how lucky you are. 

Parrot Cay COMO Turks and Caicos tiki hut

It will take a boat ride from Providenciales to reach the secluded grounds of Parrot Cay. Once there, guests have coral reefs and miles of secluded beaches to enjoy in solitude. Photo: Parrot Cay

Hip Hangout: Parrot Cay by COMO, Turks and Caicos

Owned by the stylish Como organization, Parrot Cay is a 1,000- acre private island just east of Providenciales in the Turks and Caicos. For such a secluded resort, it’s remarkably easy to get to: It’s a half-hour boat ride from the well-served airport in Provo, just south of the Bahamas. The name and location attract celebrity A-listers like Ben Affleck and Christy Turlington with simplicity and superior service. The design is understated: modern but with a clear nod to the regional plantation style. If you’re looking for acres of hand-carved mahogany paneling, this isn’t your jam. But if you’re looking for acres of deserted beach, this is the place. There are three miles of powder-white sand lapped by calm, laser-green water, the Atlantic swell tamed by the offshore reefs.

Grab a lounger and soak up the ambience at the infinity-edge pool overlooking the ocean; when you feel ambitious, take a ramble down the beach and remember to look down, there are beautiful shells underfoot, including partridge tuns, turban tops, sand dollars and queen conch. Turks and Caicos is one of the few places where you can reliably see live queen conch underwater, and the empty shells wash up on beaches and can be found in shell piles left behind by local fishermen. There are water toys on the beach or you can arrange a private boat excursion to Iguana Cay or fish on the enormous flats behind the islands. The resort rooms are clustered around the main pool, but for enhanced privacy oceanfront villas have their own pools—some are heated, ensuring year-round 24/7 skinny dipping. If you’re not coupled out by then, head for a his and her massage in the very private treatment cottage at the highly rated Shambhala Retreat. 

Canouan Resort St Vincent and the Grenadines

The Canouan Resort sprawls over expansive and meticulously landscaped grounds that rise from the beach to high bluffs that provide expansive views of the central Grenadines and the Caribbean Sea. Photo: Canouan Resort

The Jet Set: Canouan Resort, Canouan Island, St. Vincent and the Grenadines

Canouan is not a place you get to instantly. It does have an airport, but the closest international service is in St. Vincent or Barbados, so you have to want to go there. And you definitely want to go. Canouan Resort at Carenage Bay occupies about a third of a 1,200-acre former plantation, complete with a 17th- century Anglican church. Down here south of St. Vincent, the islands are lumpy leftovers from a series of volcanic explosions. The resort fronts the beach and spills up onto the hill. Most of the rooms and villas are beachfront, though a few very private dwellings are perched on a 900-foot bluff with views that reach all the way to the Tobago Cays.

The property owners are Italian and there’s a sense of style throughout, especially in the restaurants and Bellini’s bar, so pack your killer heels and some sparkly accessories. You’ll get to dinner without breaking a sweat, too. You’ll be given a golf cart on arrival so you never have to walk unless you want to. The property received major upgrades just last year and a new ultra-exclusive boutique, Pink Sands Club, opened next door so expect to see private jets lined up on the runway. When you’re not relaxing over a fine wine just drinking in the ambience, stroll Shell Beach or take a charter to snorkel with turtles in the Tobago Cays.