What was that fish? More than 500 species of finned creatures live in the waters of the tropical Atlantic and Caribbean Sea. While you may not see them all on your next Caribbean snorkeling vacation, some of these fish are regulars on the reefs and easy to spot. Here’s a quick look at 10 of the fish you are most likely to find swimming about or tucked in rock and coral crevices when you put your head under. Photo: Walt Stearns
French Angelfish
There are actually five species of angelfish in the Caribbean, but the one that’s considered to be the darling of the reef is the French angel. They are identifiable by their black background coloration, which sets off scales rimmed with golden yellow. If you see a similarly shaped fish that’s black with vertical yellow bands, it might be a juvenile, because French angelfish change coloration when they reach maturity. They are monogamous and will often stay together until death. The fish are commonly seen swimming about in pairs and picking at sponges, which constitute about 70 percent of their diet. Photo: Walt Stearns
Lionfish
There is no disputing the beauty of the red lionfish with its brightly striped body and frilly supersize fins resembling feathers. A species originally native to the Indo-Pacific, the fish found its way to the tropical Atlantic through the aquarium trade and has since become an invasive species throughout the Caribbean, Bahamas and the East Coast of the United States. As a result, it is now one of the most common fish you are likely to see when diving or snorkeling. The best policy is look but don’t touch, as lionfish are equipped with long, needle-sharp spines that are highly venomous. Photo: Walt Stearns
Coney
One of the cutest, yet often misidentified, members of the grouper family is the coney. They are quite common in shallow water and seldom shy. The confusing part is that they can have several color variants. The more common is an all-white body with a chocolate- color hood, but they can also be reddish brown with many small blue spots. Another less common color phase is yellow with the same tiny blue spots, which give the fish its second name: the golden hind. Coneys are very territorial, feeding mainly on small fish and crustaceans. They will sometimes follow moray eels that are out hunting for food. Photo: Walt Stearns
Spotted Moray Eel
There is no mistaking a moray eel when you see one with its head protruding, mouth open in seeming menace, from a lair in the reef or wreck. Actually, the eel is just flexing its jaws to pump water through its gills. The most common is the spotted moray, a medium size member of the moray clan that seldom grows longer than 3 feet in length. They are typically solitary by nature, spending most of the day peering from the safety of a hole with only the head protruding. At night, they become more active, roaming the reef in search of small crustaceans and fish. Photo: Walt Stearns
Creole Wrasse
Measuring just 4 to 8 inches in length and sporting deep purple- blue coloration, the Creole wrasse is perhaps the most abundant member and widely distributed of the Caribbean wrasses. A single school can number well into the high hundreds, and they look like a dark blue cloud as they move through the water column feeding on plankton. The Creole wrasse is most active by day, when they always move as groups to create safety in numbers. At night they scatter and retreat alone to rocky crevices in the reef to sleep. Photo: Walt Stearns
White-Spotted Filefish
The white-spotted filefish takes its name from the rough, sandpaper-like skin that covers its flattened body. Island lore claims the dried skin of these fish was once used to sand wooden boats. You may find them finning slowly around clumps of seaweed or above corals, which they sometimes nibble on with their sharp incisor teeth at the front of their snout-like mouths. When startled, they can turn their entire body black in a matter of seconds. They have a sharp spine at the top of their head, which can be raised to deter would-be predators from munching down. Photo: Walt Stearns
Queen Triggerfish
Adorned in distinctive bands of blue, purple, turquoise and green the queen triggerfish is one of the most regal residents of the reef. They are often found roaming coral and rocky bottoms looking for invertebrates, notably sea urchins, which they crack open with the large incisor teeth in the front of their snout-like mouths. Triggers take their name from a unique defense mechanism. Their two forward dorsal fins have evolved into a pair of spikes. These remain retracted most of the time, but when a threat arises, they spring upward and lock into place with a trigger-like mechanism that deters would-be predators from attacking. Photo: Walt Stearns
Cottonwick Grunts
When you encounter a school of fish hovering near a reef in a closely spaced school, they are most likely grunts. Among the more common is the cottonwick, also called the blacktail grunt. The name comes from the grunting sound they make by rubbing the flat plates of their teeth together – a sound that is amplified by the swim bladder. Grunts become more active at night, when the schools break apart to hunt for small fish and crustaceans. These fish are closely related to snappers, but are not as tasty a table fare, so they are often left alone for snorkelers and divers to enjoy. Photo: Walt Stearns
Goatfish
It’s easy to see how the goatfish gets its name. The distinctive pair of whiskers that protrude from their chins are known as chemosensory barbels, and they help these bottom feeders locate food as they riffle through sediment in search of anything edible (like goats do). Small worms, crustaceans, mollusks and other small invertebrates are a large part of their staple diet. In the Caribbean, you are likely to see either the spotted or the yellow goatfish. The yellow goatfish is recognizable by its all-white body with a large single yellow stripe. By day, when they are not feeding, they can form large aggregations. Photo: Walt Stearns
Horse-Eye Jack
Considered a game fish with minor commercial value, the horse- eye is one of the larger members of the jack family, reaching lengths of 2 feet. They are easily recognized by their smooth, reflective silver skin and large horse-like eyes, but they will sometimes mix in with other schooling fish such as crevalle or wrasses. They range into open water, but also make appearances over reefs from time to time – especially those close to open water. While they are generally wary of humans and may move slowly away as snorkelers approach, large schools will sometimes form a giant donut-shaped formation around a swimmer or diver. Photo: Walt Stearns
What was that fish? More than 500 species of finned creatures live in the waters of the tropical Atlantic and Caribbean Sea. While you may not see them all on your next Caribbean snorkeling vacation, some of these fish are regulars on the reefs and easy to spot. Here’s a quick look at 10 of the fish you are most likely to find swimming about or tucked in rock and coral crevices when you put your head under.
If you are SCUBA certified, you probably already know about Grand Cayman Island: It’s one of the top-rated dive destinations in the Caribbean, offering up stellar underwater visibility, colorful reefs, shipwrecks and plunging underwater walls. But you don’t have to be a diver to discover what lies below, and in some cases, you don’t even have to get your head wet to see under the sea. Here, from mildest to wildest, are some of the ways to discover Grand Cayman’s underwater attractions.
Thanks to clear waters and nearshore reefs, the west end of Grand Cayman is ideal for glass bottom boat tours. An easy and relatively inexpensive way to watch fish flit about the shallow corals or take in the remains of a shipwreck is aboard the Reef Roamer. This stable, 34-foot vessel plies the calm waters around the George Town harbor and is suitable for ages pre-K to post-retirement. It’s popular with the cruise ship crowd, so on-island visitors may want to reserve ahead rather than chance walking on.
If you are ready to delve a bit deeper into Grand Cayman’s underwater scene, but don’t want to lose contact with the surface, you can experience a submarine-like adventure aboard the Seaworld Observatory. This custom-built tour vessel places passengers in a below-water viewing chamber where they can easily watch the surrounding sea life, while remaining dry and in air-conditioned comfort.
For a glimpse of what lies farther below, sign up for a tour of duty aboard the Atlantis XI. This is a true submarine, capable of moving freely about the ocean floor at depths of 100 feet. The large central passenger chamber eliminates any sense of claustrophobia, there’s no rocking motion, and because the sub is sealed and dry, there are no pressure changes during descents and assents. Individual viewing ports provide glimpses of shipwrecks, reefs and the upper edge of the island’s famous underwater walls. There are also night trips, where the sub’s powerful exterior lights are used to reveal the hidden details of reef life.
Large portholes line the sides of the Atlantis Submarine. These windows provide fantastic views and bring in light to keep passengers from feeling claustrophobic. Photo: Cayman Islands Submarine
It’s an update on Jules Verne. Sea Trek sends you underwater with an air-filled helmet on your head and an airline providing a steady flow of fresh air from the surface. Like an old-fashioned hard hat diver, you’ll be weighted to walk on the bottom, so there are no swimming or buoyancy control skills to master. Heads stay dry during a guided underwater stroll along a marked pathway, making it possible to wear glasses or keep your contacts in place. Children as young as eight can participate.
Instead of attempting to master underwater buoyancy skills, Sea Trek divers follow a handrail to enjoy a guided tour of the reefs, with no fear of bumping fragile formations. Photo: Karen Doody/SeaTREK
SNUBA is like SCUBA diving, only without the tank and other bulky equipment. The air supply remains on the surface, leaving the diver unencumbered, with just a breathing mouthpiece and a small harness that acts as a surface tether. Because depths are limited to 20 feet or less, there’s no need to consult decompression tables or deal with the other physiological concerns of deeper diving. All one needs to do is master the simple acts of breathing through a regulator and equalizing the ears during descent, then it’s off and swimming. Among the SNUBA adventures offered on Grand Cayman are fish feedings and a visit to a shallow shipwreck.
SNUBA divers get their air supply through a long hose that attaches to a tank floating on the surface. This adventure can be enjoyed with no prior dive training. Photo: Steve Foulger
Many of the same operations that cater to active scuba divers also offer introductory programs that allow neophytes to master the basics. Programs are usually about two hours in length, and include some initial on-land instruction on the use of the equipment, followed by one or more underwater excursions. When choosing, look for programs that are sanctioned by one of the major training agencies, which include PADI, NAUI, SSI and SDI.
A tandem stroll on a quiet beach, an intimate candlelight dinner overlooking the sea, private conversations on a moonlit terrace. These are the moments when romance blossoms. The trick is finding the appropriate combination of ambience and amenities that encourage passions to ignite or rekindle. One such place where these elements come together is on the island of St. John. Reached only by ferry or private boat from nearby St. Thomas, this smallest and quietest member of the U.S. Virgin Islands is far from the cruise ship crowds, yet easy to reach, and rich in scenic beauty. Though much of the island remains in a natural state as the Virgin Islands National Park, there is an idyllic harbor town graced with a collection of excellent restaurants, and a select number of upscale resorts that are perfect for couples seeking to celebrate new love or fuel an existing flame.
The expansive Caneel Bay Resort includes both manicured grounds and green spaces left for wildlife habitat. The property also encompasses seven beaches. Photo: Steve Simonsen/Caneel Bay
This north shore resort oozes with as much charm and grace as its founder, Laurance Rockefeller, who purchased the Caneel Bay Plantation in the 1950s with the goal of creating the perfect vacation spot. And if disconnecting from the technological tethers of modern life and digging your toes into the sands of seven gorgeous Caribbean beaches is your idea of a perfect vacation, it’s safe to say Rockefeller achieved his goal. Traditional island stonework, Danish modern furnishings and 1950s beach style come together in the guestrooms, which are devoid of telephones and TVs. Turn off your smartphones and you can suspend all reminders of the outside world as you watch deer and donkeys graze Caneel’s beautifully manicured grounds, where trim lawns span the distance between 18th century sugar plantation ruins. While each of the resort’s seven beaches is magnificent in its own right, one of the best spots for couples seeking solitude is at the far end of Scott Beach. There is a great snorkel spot nearby, and Caneel’s chefs can provide delicious picnic lunches to bring along. Later, you can celebrate a day of doing almost nothing with dinner at ZoZo’s Ristorante, where the weathered stone remains of a historic sugar mill have been transformed into the island’s finest dining experience, complete with enthralling sunset views of the Caribbean.
Once the private estate of Laurance Rockefeller, Caneel Bay’s Cottage 7 is popular with honeymooners, as it offers both privacy and dramatic water views. Photo: Michael Grimm/Caneel Bay
The beachside gazebo at the Westin St. John has certainly seen its share of nuptials, and for good reason. This premium Starwood property provides the full range of amenities and services needed to please not only the newlyweds, but also any family and friends they choose to invite, be they young or old. Happy couples take note: The same offerings that put the Westin high on many a bride’s wish list are equally suited to staging a romantic anniversary or family reunion. Brick pathways meander through impeccably landscaped grounds where 96 guestrooms are spread out in clusters. A recent renovation to both interior and exterior gives the property a fresh new feel. While the new couple may just want to retire to their room, other members of the wedding party can head to the resort’s massive pool, a full quarter acre in size, and framed by an equally expansive deck. A sugar-sand beach and the shimmering turquoise waters of Great Cruz Bay are just steps away, and the Westin’s water-sports staff can arrange all manner of aquatic adventures. Ashore, there are tennis courts and a fitness center for the ambitions, a full-service spa for the self-indulgent and a Kid’s Club that accommodates toddlers to 12, plus a teen program. Iguana feeding, a favored activity for youngsters staying at the Westin, has given rise to a healthy population of these prehistoric reptiles, which skitter along resort pathways and through the property’s mature trees. A trio of on-site restaurants are convenient for mealtime meetups, but it’s equally easy to slip away to one of the many fine restaurants in the nearby village of Cruz Bay.
The centerpiece for relaxation is this oversize pool at the Westin at St. John. The resort boasts 47 tropical acres overlooking Great Cruz Bay. Photo: Brian Minnich/Westin St. John Resort
What could be more romantic than playing house in the Caribbean? Sharing a morning cup of coffee in your private sitting room as trade wind zephyrs filter through open French doors that frame an electric- blue sea just beyond. This scenario is best played out in living quarters a bit grander than your average hotel room, and one of the Caribbean’s best places to turn this fantasy into reality is at the Gallows Point Resort. Cloistered on the end of an elevated peninsula on the south side of Cruz Bay, at the mouth of the town’s harbor, this all-suite property encompasses a collection of one-bedroom residences. All include full kitchens and separate living areas, and some place the bedroom and an additional half bath in an open second-story loft. Reserve an ocean view room for the ultimate combination of stunning nightly sunsets and the gentle sound of waves lapping at the shore, or a harbor side room where you can keep tabs on the comings and goings of island ferries, and sometimes hear hints of music carried from town on the night winds. The resort pool and hot tub are positioned to take maximum advantage of water views, and while there is no sandy beach to speak of, water access is easy via steps that lead to fish-filled shallows and a floating dock. Gallows has the lushest and most intricate landscaping of any St. John resort, hands-down, plus two oceanfront gazebos complete with swings begging for a romantic interlude.
The villas at Gallows Point Resort sit on a peninsula at the mouth of Cruz Bay, surrounded by lush landscaping and offering private balconies with water views. Photo: Steve Simonsen/Gallows Point
Whether it’s just a couples’ thing or the little ones or loved ones are invited, Grande Bay’s in-town location provides an ideal base of operation for island-wide activities, as well as a luxurious retreat once the day is done. A relative newcomer to the St. John’s resort scene, the property offers an upscale and immaculately finished collection of studio to three-bedroom suites, all with private terraces overlooking the harbor at Cruz Bay. Rather than expand outward, resort amenities stack upwards, as the pool sits rooftop to provide sweeping island views, and the glass-walled fitness center takes in equally inspiring vistas. Kitchens, which are fitted with top-of-the-line appliances, may tempt you to stay in and cook dinner together. If not, many of the island’s best restaurants and most popular bars are just steps away. Cruz Beach is also just across the road, while a rental car is the best way to discover all the island’s beaches and scenic destinations. You’ll get your own parking spot at Grande Bay’s parking garage—the only one on island. For the ultimate in personal space, choose the one-bedroom Yemaya penthouse, which devotes nearly 2,000 square feet to private indoor and outdoor living space and delivers elevated and unobstructed views of Cruz Bay, Pillsbury Sound and St. Thomas, all for just the two of you.
Between the soft, enveloping trade winds and the scent of hibiscus and frangipani they carry, it’s a cold heart indeed that doesn’t feel at least a little romantic in the Caribbean. Almost any moonlit beach or relaxed restaurant can be the launching pad for love, but there are some special times and places that you should experience for yourself. Here are our picks for the Caribbean’s most romantic moments.
“A Book of Verses underneath the Bough / A Jug of Wine, a Loaf of Bread / and Thou Beside me singing in the Wilderness….” Omar Khayyam never saw Pigeon Island on St. Lucia, but no doubt it was just this sort of place he had in mind when he wrote his famous quatrain. Pack your bread and wine and head up the hiking trail to Fort Rodney. The view from on top is magnificent, sweeping across Rodney Bay and Reduit Beach. The fort and bay are named for Admiral George Rodney, who bedeviled the French, Spanish and Dutch fleets in the 18th century. There are cannons commanding the seaway leading to Gros Islet and plenty of spots to sprawl on a blanket in the shade of the ruined fortifications.
The site of historic forts and the source of magnificent views, St. Lucia’s Pigeon Island is now joined to the main island, thanks to a man-made earth causeway added in the 1970s. Photo: St Lucia Tourist Board
Both mysterious and mystical, the Maya temples of the Yucatan make you feel the vastness of time and spark appreciation for the pleasures and people of the present. A short drive from Cancun, the largest structure at Chichén Itzá is “El Castillo,” the Temple of Kukulkán, the Feathered Serpent. On the spring and autumn equinoxes, the steps that ascend the pyramid cast a moving shadow that looks like a large, feathered snake slowly crawling down the structure’s stone side. Avoid the hordes of addled New Agers by visiting a few days before or after the equinox. The serpent will still appear and you can enjoy each other’s company without so many spectators. How considerate of the Mayan astronomers to put on a light show just for the two of you.
Each year at the times of the spring and fall equinox, evening shadows on Chichén Itzá’s Temple of Kukulkán create patterns that resemble a giant serpent ascending the stairs. Photo: Victor Pelaez/iStock
The stone fortifications that protected San Juan have been stout enough to survive for more than 400 years. But in 1797, the city was almost forced to surrender to British troops. Sir Ralph Abercrombie and his invasion fleet lay at anchor in the harbor. The bishop of San Juan recruited scores of women and led a torchlight parade, called a rogativa, atop the city’s walls to pray for deliverance. Seeing the huge procession of torches, the Brits concluded the town had been massively reinforced. The hoisted their anchors and sailed away in the night. A statue commemorating the event stands in the Plazuela Rogativa overlooking San Juan Harbor. At sunset, the city walls and the statue are bathed in a glow thick and sweet as orange marmalade while the lights blink on across the opposite shore.
Perched on the heights overlooking the languid Chavon River in southeastern Dominican Republic, Altos de Chavon is a re-creation of a 16th century Mediterranean village. Cobblestone streets meander past small shops, art galleries and restaurants, while a broad walkway along the cliff’s edge invites extended gazing over a rolling landscape that encompasses the Casa de Campo golf course. Head over to St. Stanislaus Church and sit in the niche that holds the church’s bell to watch the bougainvillea lining the ravine glow as the sun disappears. Afterward, enjoy a long, lingering dinner.
An authentic replica of a medieval European village, the buildings and cobblestone streets of Altos de Chavon were fabricated from the rock spoils of a nearby highway project. Photo: Debbie Snow
The east side of Harbour Island, just off Eleuthera in the central Bahamas, is rimmed by three glorious miles of pink sand. The beach is wide and lapped by gentle waves muffled by the offshore reef. The distinctive color comes from tiny foraminifera, single-celled organisms that create a pink shell. They die by the millions to create a colorful carpet for lovers. Get to the beach before the sun comes up and watch as the first tendrils of light skip across the tops of the waves onto the sand. Work up your various appetites before heading back to your hotel for breakfast and a rest.
This is the Caribbean’s original den of iniquity. Although not quite as lively as it was pre- Castro when it was run by mobsters Meyer Lansky and Santo Trafficante Jr., the stage show at the Tropicana celebrates the primal Afro-Caribbean rhythms of Cuba and serves them up with plenty of skin and sizzle. A night in the Salon Bajo las Estrellas with scantily clad dancers scampering along catwalks in the towering trees that line the outdoor showroom will have you feeling the heat.
Since 1939, the cabaret shows at the Tropicana Club have remained one of Cuba’s most iconic acts. Today, the lights shine brighter than ever to welcome a new wave of tourism. Photo: Compflight
On the southwest coast of Puerto Rico near La Parguera is a bay with a shallow entrance that traps microscopic bioluminescent critters. Find a local guide with a small boat, take your mask and snorkel and head out on a moonless night. Test the waters by trailing your hand overboard—when you find the plankton, the friction of your fingers will cause them to glow bright green. Slip overboard and watch in amazement as the two of you literally light up the night.
Anguilla is known for two things: luxury resorts and beautiful sand beaches. In all, the island offers 33 gorgeous stretches of powdery white sands formed from crushed coral and washed by clear aquamarine waters. Whether it’s a walk on the shoreline, a dip in the water or some downtime in a chaise lounge, beach going simply doesn’t get any better than here.
The list of Caribbean hotels that make the pulse pound and your significant other look even more significant is a long one. Like beauty, romance is in the heart of the beholder. There are beach bungalows far from the madding crowd where it’s just you two and a couple of tiki torches and hotels in the middle of lively and historic cities; resorts with staff awaiting your every command and boutiques that let you be. Whatever your romantic style, here are our choice properties for your consideration.
Your private sundeck awaits at Belize’s Cayo Espanto resort. This private island is just a few minutes by boat from the town of San Pedro, but a world apart from other resorts. Photo: Cayo Espanto
Even though it’s only three miles from bustling San Pedro, Cayo Espanto is a Caribbean cocoon, a private island with no access from the outside world save its own guest ferry. Seven villas are strategically spaced around the four-acre island to create maximum individual privacy. And each is unique: Casa Ventanas is built over the water and reached via a dock; Casa Olita has a private plunge pool, private beach and outdoor shower; Casa Estrella is two stories, with an elevated ocean view that goes on forever. On your way to the island, forego the ferry and arrive by helicopter to soak in spectacular vistas of sea and sky.
Once there, you’ll be greeted by the staff and your housemen who will take care of your every whim. The chef will drop by daily to discuss your dinner desires; your houseman will coordinate lunch and take you to a nearby deserted islet, where he’ll rake the sand to perfection and set you up with a cell phone to call him when you’re ready to return. After a delicious day of snorkeling, swimming, bonefishing or sunbathing you can return to your villa at Casa Brisa to take in the breezes or savor the sunsets from the west-facing Casa Solana, either villa is guaranteed to make your heart grow fonder.
The architecture of the Hostal Nicolas de Ovando incorporates a trio of 500-year-old homes that are the oldest European-built stone structures in the Americas. Photo: Serge Detalle/Ovando House
Nicolas de Ovando arrived in the Dominican Republic in 1502 at the head of some 2,000 colonists, leading the first organized European settlement in the New World. The hotel, Hostal Nicolas de Ovando isn’t just named for him, it’s literally in his house. Actually it’s three houses and the first European-built stone dwellings in the Americas. They were erected in 1502 along Las Damas, the first street in what would become the headquarters of Spain’s American enterprises, Santo Domingo. Listed as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO, this hotel oozes historic charm: In fact, it would be accurate to say there is no more historic hotel in the western hemisphere. The stone-walled structures enclose a central courtyard graced by a fountain and surrounded on four sides by a two-story gallery, it’s arched openings and columns a rhythmic counterpoint to the brick and stone.
Inside, the owners have done a masterful job of blending modern decor with the structure, highlighting the eccentricities of the half-millennium-old buildings rather than hiding them. The 74 rooms aren’t cookie-cutter, as they’ve been designed to work with the building. There’s a pool in a walled garden with plenty of room for lounging and just outside the door all of the charms of the colonial city. Wandering the narrow, cobblestone streets past the home of the conquistador Hernán Cortés leads you to the Alcazár de Colón, the family home built by Diego Columbus, Christopher’s son, which is now a museum. Nearby there are quaint restaurants, small shops filled with art and keepsakes and the Cathedral of Santa María la Menor, the first Catholic church in the Americas. Buy a freshly rolled cigar at the shop across the street and check out menus at the nearby restaurants until you find one with a paella and an atmosphere that suits your mood. Afterwards, head back to the Ovando house and listen to the live jazz echoing off centuries-old bricks.
Jamaica’s Half Moon resort is a diverse and expansive property that commands a significant swath of coastline and offers private villas and cottages with direct water views. Photo: Half Moon Resort
If you suspect that the uber wealthy know something the rest of us don’t, you need no further proof than Half Moon, near Montego Bay, Jamaica. In the mid-1950s, a group of industrialists and heirs to some of America’s largest fortunes began to build winter cottages on a picturesque private beach. The cluster of cottages evolved into the full-size resort Half Moon, which attracted the rich and famous to luxuriate in the naughty atmosphere of the North Shore. Far from prying eyes in London, New York and Hollywood, celebrities could let down their hair for some serious fun. Errol Flynn spent years on the North Shore as did James Bond author Ian Fleming. JFK and Jackie stayed at Half Moon; so did Audrey Hepburn, Clark Gable, Joan Crawford and most of the current generations of British royals.
Half Moon now sprawls over 400 seaside acres, encompassing a Robert Trent Jones Sr. golf course, several dozen (that’s right, dozen) pools and a shoreline embroidered with small palm- shaded coves. There’s an equestrian center, multiple fine dining restaurants and a 68,000-square-foot spa. While you can be perfectly happy in one of the luxury rooms, if romance is what you’re reaching for, one of the original West End cottages or a Royal Villa offer the ultimate in pleasurable pampering. The residences are staffed and you’ll have a butler, cook and housekeeper making sure you want for nothing. You can loll by a private pool and just keep telling each other how lucky you are.
It will take a boat ride from Providenciales to reach the secluded grounds of Parrot Cay. Once there, guests have coral reefs and miles of secluded beaches to enjoy in solitude. Photo: Parrot Cay
Owned by the stylish Como organization, Parrot Cay is a 1,000- acre private island just east of Providenciales in the Turks and Caicos. For such a secluded resort, it’s remarkably easy to get to: It’s a half-hour boat ride from the well-served airport in Provo, just south of the Bahamas. The name and location attract celebrity A-listers like Ben Affleck and Christy Turlington with simplicity and superior service. The design is understated: modern but with a clear nod to the regional plantation style. If you’re looking for acres of hand-carved mahogany paneling, this isn’t your jam. But if you’re looking for acres of deserted beach, this is the place. There are three miles of powder-white sand lapped by calm, laser-green water, the Atlantic swell tamed by the offshore reefs.
Grab a lounger and soak up the ambience at the infinity-edge pool overlooking the ocean; when you feel ambitious, take a ramble down the beach and remember to look down, there are beautiful shells underfoot, including partridge tuns, turban tops, sand dollars and queen conch. Turks and Caicos is one of the few places where you can reliably see live queen conch underwater, and the empty shells wash up on beaches and can be found in shell piles left behind by local fishermen. There are water toys on the beach or you can arrange a private boat excursion to Iguana Cay or fish on the enormous flats behind the islands. The resort rooms are clustered around the main pool, but for enhanced privacy oceanfront villas have their own pools—some are heated, ensuring year-round 24/7 skinny dipping. If you’re not coupled out by then, head for a his and her massage in the very private treatment cottage at the highly rated Shambhala Retreat.
The Canouan Resort sprawls over expansive and meticulously landscaped grounds that rise from the beach to high bluffs that provide expansive views of the central Grenadines and the Caribbean Sea. Photo: Canouan Resort
Canouan is not a place you get to instantly. It does have an airport, but the closest international service is in St. Vincent or Barbados, so you have to want to go there. And you definitely want to go. Canouan Resort at Carenage Bay occupies about a third of a 1,200-acre former plantation, complete with a 17th- century Anglican church. Down here south of St. Vincent, the islands are lumpy leftovers from a series of volcanic explosions. The resort fronts the beach and spills up onto the hill. Most of the rooms and villas are beachfront, though a few very private dwellings are perched on a 900-foot bluff with views that reach all the way to the Tobago Cays.
The property owners are Italian and there’s a sense of style throughout, especially in the restaurants and Bellini’s bar, so pack your killer heels and some sparkly accessories. You’ll get to dinner without breaking a sweat, too. You’ll be given a golf cart on arrival so you never have to walk unless you want to. The property received major upgrades just last year and a new ultra-exclusive boutique, Pink Sands Club, opened next door so expect to see private jets lined up on the runway. When you’re not relaxing over a fine wine just drinking in the ambience, stroll Shell Beach or take a charter to snorkel with turtles in the Tobago Cays.
Vacationers are lured by visions of expansive swaths of sand, bright waters, casual beach culture and a smorgasbord of water sports. Aruba delivers on these promises, but there’s more to this island beyond the sun and fun. Better than half of all visitors come back, and many form lasting bonds and friendships with locals. It’s not uncommon to find folks who return twice a year for periods of a month or more; many have been coming to Aruba for decades. The island does it right, and it all starts with the people. The Aruba license plate states “One Happy Island,” which is not just a motto, but an integral element of the local atmosphere.
Though officially part of the Netherlands, Aruba is home to a wide range of cultures and ethnic groups, some dating from the days of the Dutch Caribbean trade, others more recent arrivals. Dutch overtones are evident, but so too are Caribbean and South American influences. Adding to the mix, you may find an artist from Spain, a yoga instructor from Norway and a chef from Italy. Over the centuries, each nation has brought a bit of their homeland culture, which can be seen in the island’s food, drink, dance and art. Native Arubans, descendents of the Arawak, are sprinkled with a dash of Dutch, Spanish and African that blends into a rich cultural mix.
Aruba’s well-stocked supermarkets turn grocery shopping into an international affair. Much like the island’s diverse population, store shelves are stocked with an eclectic range of products from around the world. Take home one of Europe’s finest coffees, Douwe Egberts, and tins of almond windmill cookies from Holland. South America contributes Cacique rum and Harina P.A.N. cornmeal for making Venezuelan arepas. A bounty of sauces, condiments and spices come from Asian distributors, sharing shelf space with favorite North American brands.
Rather than rely on rainfall or limited and sometimes brackish groundwater reserves, Aruba gets ample supplies of fresh, coral- filtered drinking water from a state of the art desalinization plant in Oranjestad. The island is quite proud of its taste, and it flows from taps in generous and safe-to-drink quantities. Now, this pure water has also become a key ingredient in a local beer: Balashi. The island brew has edged out sister island Curacao’s Amstel as the local beer of choice.
Aruba’s calm west coast is flanked by miles of magnificent beaches, and at the center of the action is Palm Beach, the Aruban equivalent of Copacabana. This stretch of sand is home to the island’s finest resorts and is a playground for water sports, beach activities and plenty of people watching. Whether it’s spending the day lazing in a chaise, bobbing on a float or napping under a shaded palapa, everyone makes it to Palm Beach at one time or another. Closer to town, lower-key Eagle Beach is a favorite with families, who come to play in banks of soft sugary granules and frolic in small pale turquoise waves.
More than 20 percent of Aruba lies within Arikok National Park. Located along the island’s northern shore, this 13-square-mile preserve resembles an arid Arizona landscape, with intriguing rock formations, caverns and giant cacti. Explorations can take place on foot, via horseback or by car. In addition to ancient Arawak petroglyphs, there are caves to be discovered along with pocket- size beaches and tidal pools tucked into coves that protect waders from the pounding surf. Wildlife includes donkeys, lizards, burrowing owls and the occasional rattlesnake.
Most everyone who visits Aruba takes in some water-based activity, even if it’s just a snorkel from the beach or a sunset sail. The steady trade winds that blow from the east made the island an early mecca for the sport of windsurfing, and kiteboarders have since joined in. In more sheltered waters, where hotels block the wind, conditions are ideal to paddle a kayak or take a yoga class on a SUP. And just offshore, coral reefs and shipwrecks beckon divers and snorkelers.
The island’s 200-plus eateries are known for serving up a medley of international cuisines. Dutch, French, Belgium, Chinese, Italian and Thai dishes are favorites, but don’t pass up the opportunity to try local recipes like keshi yena—a ball of Gouda or Edam cheese filled with spiced chicken or beef, tomatoes, onions, olives, green pepper and raisins. Pastechi, an empanada filled with chicken, beef or fish, is a favorite grab-and-go snack from markets and bakeries. Dutch and Indonesian influences come together in another local pairing: chicken satay with peanut sauce, served with French fries and mayo.
Casinos are big on the island, and just about every large resort has its own. The tables at the Hyatt Regency Casino, the Marriott Stellaris Casino and the Radisson on Palm Beach are busy day and night. In town you can try your luck at the Seaport Casino and spend your winnings at the shops, restaurants and bars right there. One of the island’s first—now rebuilt bigger and better—is the Alhambra Casino, with its own shopping and dining arcade. Operated by the Divi Group and close to its resort locations on Eagle Beach, this casino even provides complimentary transportation via golf carts, so carrying all that loot is never a burden.
When the sun goes down, Aruba parties on. There is no shortage of nighttime activities both in Palm Beach and downtown Oranjestad, where you’ll find the best action including rooftop dancing and ocean views from the Local Store bar. Mojito’s Cantina & Grill at the Royal Plaza Mall pulls in the Latin lovers who gravitate toward salsa and bachata, and at the Grand Café Tropical in Renaissance Marketplace, dance tunes dominate the scene. The hotel zone is ideal for a nightcap at places such as MooMba Beach Bar & Restaurant, which sits under a massive palapa right on the sand. If your night takes you no farther than Palm Beach, several clubs and bars are within walking distance of many hotels.
For a small island, Aruba has a burgeoning art community, with locally grown talent. Inspiration often comes from nature, but exposure to global art and ideas has influenced both technique and medium. You’ll find sculptors, potters and painters; some portray the local landscape while other offer subtle social and environmental messages. A variety of work is showcased at three primary galleries: Gasparito Restaurant & Art Gallery, Insights Art Studio and long-time favorite Que Pasa Restaurant, Art Gallery & Bar. Exhibitions can also be viewed at the Marriott and Westin resorts on Palm Beach.
Bob Marley’s plea for unity, “One Love,” was doubtless inspired by his own homeland. Because of its size-150 miles long by 50 wide-Jamaica is almost continental in its diversity. It has sinuous beaches that wind along the base of its North Shore hills, a mountain range that soars above 7,000 feet, a broad plain pocked with caves, waterfalls, dense cities and nearly uninhabited rural districts. This landscape forged a multicultural national identity that embraces everyone from international entrepreneurs and musical artists who perform worldwide to Rastafarians who seldom interact with outsiders. For travelers, this Jamaica is no one-trick pony.
Jamaica may be the Caribbean’s most musical island. It gave birth to ska, rocksteady and reggae, at least putting it on par with Cuba, the birthplace of salsa, son and cha-cha. Music is everywhere in Jamaica, and while the performers work in many styles, there’s a Jamaican way of making music that’s instantly identifiable. It’s the trademark of internationally appreciated artists, ranging from the various members of the Marley clan to Beenie Man, Buju Banton, Bounty Killer, Peter Tosh, Bunny Wailer, Jimmy Cliff… it’s a long list. Whether it’s a Rasta with a guitar down by the beach or tuning up in a Montego Bay nightclub with a dancehall deejay, this is the fountainhead of a sound that has found fans around the world.
The Arawak Amerindians named the island Xaymaca, the land of wood and water. The towering trees, rivers and waterfalls must have been a revelation to these first arrivals from the low-lying sandy Windward Islands. Other than displacing the Arawaks, the Spanish did little to develop the island, and the British took it from them in 1655. The British established plantations and pirate havens—Port Royal was called the “Babylon of the West”—and the wealth generated by these enterprises built fine houses in Kingston and on plantations scattered along the coasts. Catch a glimpse of the grandeur at the 19th-century Devon House or the Institute of Jamaica in Kingston. See the grit at the museums of Port Royal, also in Kingston. Harmony Hall near Ocho Rios is a proper snapshot of the genteel country life and boasts an art museum to boot.
For British artists and aristocrats the North Coast was a hedonistic playground where they could cavort, uninhibited by London’s moralizing majority. The playwright, Noel Coward, built his vacation home, Firefly, on a cliff once used by the pirate Capt. Henry Morgan as a lookout. Swashbuckling actor Errol Flynn, who earned himself the nickname Tasmanian Devil, bought Navy Island in Port Antonio and spent years there dodging a statutory rape charge pending in Hollywood. You can tour Firefly and James Bond author Ian Fleming’s Goldeneye estate in Orcabessa, which is now a luxury resort.
Sugarcane was one of the main crops of the big plantations. What do you do with a ton of sugarcane? Obviously, you crush and ferment it, then cook up some rum. Jamaica was the official supplier of the spirit to the Royal Navy until the service’s daily rum rations were discontinued in 1970. You’ll find the island’s best at any bar or restaurant, or you can go to the source and visit the distilleries. Myers’s and Appleton Estate are the leading export brands, producing superbly blended spirits aged up to 30 years.
They may be younger and their antics more outrageous, but the rock ’n’ roll generation has also found Jamaica the perfect foil for their wild side. There’s a pervasive hipness at places like the Rockhouse hotel in Negril and Jakes resort in Treasure Beach; whether those vibes are left behind by Mick Jagger and Bob Marley or just an innate sense of boho chic, you can feel fabulous without even bothering to put on a shirt and shoes.
Jerk cooking has spread almost as widely as reggae. Meat seasoned with allspice, Scotch bonnet peppers, cloves, cinnamon and a few other spices, was originally smoked in a pit to preserve it. These days, jerk is generally grilled over a wood fire, often in an oil drum. As good as jerk pork, chicken or goat is, that’s only a part of the story. Jamaican cuisine has many other ingredients: peas ’n’ rice (pigeon peas and rice), bammy (cassava bread), patties (meat turnovers), curry goat and the national dish, salt cod and ackee.
Jamaica has a bit of everything iconic about the Caribbean: mountain peaks, broad sandy beaches, rocky seaside cliffs, rolling coastal plains, lazy rivers, waterfalls, mangrove coasts, vast swamps and lush valleys. Much of it is cloaked in visually searing highway-sign-green foliage punctuated by bursts of bougainvillea, fuchsia, ginger and orchids. On the shoulders of Blue Mountain Peak sits a cloud forest thick with towering palm tree-size ferns richly furred with bromeliads. That gives way to an elfin forest of miniature, wizened plants as you climb. On a clear day you can see Cuba, 90 miles away, from the 7,400-foot peak; at night, the lights of Kingston twinkle just below.
With all of that landscape to play in, there’s no lack of ways to get an activity buzz. Without leaving most resorts you can try windsurfing or any number of water toys. You can cross the forest canopy on a zip line, hunt for saltwater crocs, dive, hike, bike, climb and ride ATVs, horses or camels. Sports operators are everywhere; just ask at your hotel tour desk.
If you just want some sand to lie on, there are plenty of stretches from which to choose. You’ll have no difficulty finding the spots popular with visitors, but if you’re a little adventurous, there are many less obvious choices to be discovered. Boston Beach near Port Antonio is famous for its jerk stands; nearby Winnifred Beach is popular with locals; Cosmos Beach is near Negril’s Seven Mile Beach but gets far less traffic; same with Cornwall Beach near Montego Bay which is often nearly deserted when the adjacent (and popular) Doctor’s Cave Beach is packed. Farther along the North Shore in Orcabessa is small but scenic James Bond Beach, where scenes from the 1962 Bond flick Dr. No were filmed.
While it’s possible to spend as much in Jamaica as anywhere else in the Caribbean, it’s also possible to spend far less. The island has the full range of guest houses, hotels and resorts. You can rent a basic beach cabin in Negril for less than $50 a night and work your way up to a room with a butler at a beachfront resort or on to a million-dollar private villa. In the middle, scores of resorts and budget-stretching all-inclusive properties let you go Jamaican your way.
A leader in eco-tourism, Bonaire is surrounded by an underwater marine park protected in perpetuity. Today and tomorrow, divers and snorkelers will explore pristine reefs pulsing with sea life. Topside, adventurers bike and hike along the coast and in the rugged parched interior.
The quirky yet magnificent Caribbean flamingo calls Bonaire home. Most live and breed at Salt Lake, a nesting ground that’s off limits to humans—though you can get a peek of pink from the road (bring binoculars for a closer look). Sightings are also plentiful at the landlocked salt lake of Gotomeer in Washington Slagbaai National Park, where the big birds can be seen preening and feeding on insects along the water’s edge. The flamingo is Bonaire’s signature icon, so protecting the island’s 15,000 pink-feathered residents is high priority.
You’ll see the signs along the roadside as you travel in the countryside. The island’s feral donkeys graze on succulents and sparse green leaves growing along the sloping landscape. Occasionally, a couple will stop dead in the middle of the road en route to greener pastures. Night driving commands some caution as a stray could be around the next curve. Originally brought in by the Spanish, the pack animals once served as a means of transportation. Today they are free to roam the hillsides and like all living creatures on Bonaire they are protected; more than 400 live on a sanctuary where visitors can see them up close.
Thanks to dive pioneers like Capt. Don Stewart and others passionate about the underwater world, the reef system around Bonaire was declared a national marine park in 1979. Today STINAPA, a government-commissioned NGO, overlooks the park like a favored child. The most recognized marine park in the Caribbean, it is permeated with colorful stands of coral and the shimmering iridescence of 350 species of fish. Bonaire took a strong conservation stance in the early ’70s to watch over the turtle population, prohibit spearfishing and protect reefs by installing mooring balls to prevent anchor damage. Divers are dropped by boat or enter the water from shore.
Impressive in size, the 13,500-acre Washington Slagbaai National Park covers nearly 20 percent of the island. It is a testament to Bonaire’s conviction to preserve the environment above ground as well as beneath the sea. The grounds of two former plantations were purchased by the government and established as a national treasure in 1969. The park, which celebrates its 45th birthday June 1, 2014, is home to 190 species of birds, free-roaming goats, donkeys, lizards and an array of flowering cacti.
Bonaire’s strong conservation ethic and love for nature has helped to protect the yellow-shouldered Amazon parrot (Amazona barbadensis). The colorful bird, known locally as the lora, is green and yellow and shows a display of blue and red feathers in flight. These birds arrive from Venezuela and Margarita Island and find the rocky cliffs and holes in Bonaire’s lignum vitae and gum trees ideal for nests. Noise and construction chases them away, so researchers love the fact that nearly 20 percent of Bonaire is under the watchful eye of park rangers, giving the approximately 800 yellow-shouldered parrots remaining in the wild a chance for survival.
Young Dutch entrepreneurs are drawn to Bonaire for the laid-back atmosphere, sunny skies and business opportunities made possible by the island’s long association with the Netherlands. They open restaurants, bars and small shops, bringing with them their European attitudes. This bohemian Euro-flair on a tiny island stands out and gives Bonaire a touch of international appeal. You can shop for gourmet Dutch treats at the supermarkets, learn a few Dutch words and linger over long meals at some of the trendy outdoor cafes and restaurants in Kralendijk.
There are 85 officially named dive sites off of Bonaire and Klein Bonaire, and almost half are reachable by shore. Divers and snorkelers can load their gear in a rental car—or one of the pickup trucks specially equipped with gear racks—and follow the coastal road to rock markers painted bright yellow and emblazoned with the name of the site. Most sites have convenient parking areas just a short walk from shore, and the swim to the reef is equally easy.
As you drive to the southern tip of the island, you’ll see what looks like snow-covered mountains. In reality, they aren’t. They are actually mounds of salt, drying and crystallizing for export. During the island’s colonial period, salt had been an important trade commodity, harvested by hand and carried on backs of men to ships that sailed to Europe. Today the natural product that comes from the sea is pumped by machine into ponds, the brine is then pumped into crystallizers and after it is harvested, washed and dried for export. While most of the salt heads to foreign lands you can buy a bag of sea salt crystals in local shops to take home for a soak.
While the sport might be waning in some parts of the world, it’s still big on Bonaire. People travel from Europe and North America for a chance to sail in steady winds, ranging from 15 to 20 knots in the winter months and 25 to 30 knots during the high winds of summer. The warm waters of Lac Bay, coupled with side onshore breezes, make the spot one of the best in the Caribbean. For the neophyte the best place to learn is inside the protected bay, where shallow waters and a sandy bottom make learning that first beach or water start a reality. A few days of practicing your jibes in the side onshore winds will take you to the next level before you head home.
Artists find inspiration in nature both above and beneath the water. Janice Huckaby depicts underwater life and natural settings of the island in watercolors, oil and acrylic. Sculptures of mermaids and turtles are also in her realm of imagination. Germaine Nijdam finds discarded items on the coasts and turns them into wall art. Driftwood, plastic bottles and rope become fish, sunbursts and quaint island vignettes. She also makes benches and stools from wood that once floated in the sea. Both local and visiting artists are celebrated in an annual art festival. Dia di Arte at Wilhelmina Park in Kralendijk takes place the first Sunday every July.
Often called the sleeping virgin, St. Croix is the largest of the United States Virgin Islands, yet the least visited. This means there’s plenty of elbow room to wander the national parks and historic sites, and a table with a water view is always waiting at Christiansted’s taverns. You’ll even be able to find a secluded spot on one of the many beaches that ring the island.
One of the Caribbean’s finest coral gardens lies just offshore of St. Croix. Buck Island Reef National Monument is a protected underwater park that’s part of the U.S. National Park Service. The 176-acre island is fringed by a 704-acre reef system rich with elkhorn coral groves that form interlacing channels and sun-dappled grottoes alive with colorful tropical fish and waving sea fans. Interpretive plaques identify the various types of coral, the marine habitats and the fish that swim by. Directional arrows lead the way through the coral maze. Topside, the sandy shores of Turtle Beach double as a nesting area for hawksbill turtles and a rookery for frigates and brown pelicans. Hike the nature trail to the crest of the hill for panoramic water views, then back to the sandy shores and throw down a towel for some time in the sun.
Take a trip back in time at the seven-acre waterfront of Christiansted’s National Historic Site, which still resembles a Danish seaside town of the 18th or 19th century. Here, a collection of five sun-dipped historic buildings remain intact and ready for inspection. Fort Christiansvaern guards the harbor, complete with dungeons, ramparts and cannons. The nearby Scale House once regulated trade and collected duties for the crown, while the namesake spire of the Steeple Building guided mariners into port. Both are open for self-guided tours. Also not to be missed are the Danish Custom House and the Danish West India & Guinea Company Warehouse, which now doubles as a courthouse and post office.
Sunset views and jazz come together on the third Friday of each month in the seaside town of Frederiksted on the island’s southwest coast. Rebuilt after a massive fire in 1878, the town shows off its Victorian architecture with gingerbread-laced front porches wrapped in purple bougainvillea. Gather up your friends and family, some blankets and lawn chairs and find your spot at Frederiksted Beach just north of the pier. Local and international jazz musicians begin playing at 5:30 p.m. and continue on until sunset.
Columbus landed at Salt River in 1493 while looking for freshwater deposits, and instead found the not-so-friendly Caribe Indians. Today Salt River Bay National Historical Park and Ecological Preserve is explored by a different type of adventurer; kayakers paddle around mangrove forests and over coral reefs that are home to many rare and endangered species. If you are lucky, you might spot a hawksbill turtle or the roseate terns that roost here. Take a moonlight guided tour and watch the water light up with bioluminescence.
In addition to the island’s annual winter Carnival, The town of Christiansted blocks the streets four times a year for Jump Up, a cultural festival that’s a celebration of food, dance and music. Mocko Jumbies, traditional stilt dancers that ward off evil, parade through the streets while shops and restaurants stay open late. Vendors set up stalls along the boardwalk and sell local cuisine, artwork and jewelry while the music of the steel drum lingers in the background.
Direct flights from the East Coast and no passport or visa requirements for U.S. citizens make a quick weekend getaway easy. Pack light and add to your collection of tropical wear while you are there. U.S. citizens can bring back up $1,600 in duty-free goods without paying an import tariff, and locally made items like artwork, jewelry and clothing are also free of sales tax. Both Cruzan Rum and Captain Morgan’s Rum are island-made, so plan on stocking up the liquor cabinet as well.
St. Croix embraces its agricultural roots with an annual fair and mango festival. The island, once known as the breadbasket of the region, is seeing a rebound in small-plot and organic farming. Nestled into the rainforest on the island’s northwest corner, the Ridge to Reef Farm practices sustainable agriculture and provides the local community with healthful produce. Weekly tours, overnight working stays and volunteer programs are offered for those seeking to learn about farm life on a tropical island or maybe spend a few days working in the fields.
An island of foodies, St. Croix has its fair share of celebrated chefs and varied cuisines. The culture harbors a widespread fascination with food: its history, preparation and presentation. And drink is not far behind. First launched in the year 2000, the St. Croix Wine and Food Experience has grown into a top-rated international food festival that attracts globetrotting epicureans. During the week-long event, held every April, celebrity chefs host intimate Cork & Fork dinners paired with wines in private homes. Other highlights include wine tastings from credentialed sommeliers, chef competitions, sunset barbecues and progressive dinners in Christiansted’s old town. The signature event is Taste of St. Croix, a night of sampling that brings together the culinary offerings of more than 50 island restaurants, chefs, farms and caterers.
St. Croix is noted for its jewelry arts, and nothing says a visit to the island like a hook bracelet. This Cruzan icon was originally designed by Sonja Hough more than 40 years ago and has since been duplicated by many. You can find examples cast in gold or silver, with or without stones. Whatever the form, the message is all about love. Wear it with the open end of the hook pointed up toward your heart to signify you are taken. With the open end of the hook worn down, away from your heart, the message is that you are unattached or single.
The peninsula of Sandy Point National Wildlife Refuge is the longest and most pristine stretch of beach in the U.S. Virgin Islands. This beach is the largest leatherback turtle nesting site in the U.S. and remains off limits to humans from May to September. The site is managed by the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Department, which does allow human visitation on Saturday and Sunday during off-nesting months. This refuge is also a prime location for bird-watching, so be sure to pack a pair of binoculars and be on the lookout for brown pelicans, black- necked stilts and yellow warblers.
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