Tag Archives: Caribbean

Big animal encounters, Diving with Goliath Grouper

10 Places in the Tropics for Big Animal Encounters

 

Coral reefs and colorful tropical fish are what many seek when they embark on snorkeling or diving adventures. But there are bigger fish in the sea, and at select places in the Caribbean and tropical Atlantic, you can be all but guaranteed a chance to come face to face with critters that are closer to your own size—or significantly larger. Here are some of the best big animal adventures I’ve enjoyed and can endorse.

Giant Grouper

You’ll need to be comfortable performing a drift dive at depths of 60 to 80 feet for an almost-guaranteed chance to see the biggest fish on the reef. Protected status has brought the Goliath grouper back to the reefs of South Florida, where it’s sometimes possible to swim with 40 or more fish weighting 200 to 400 pounds. The annual late-summer spawn brings together the greatest number of fish, but there’s a good chance of seeing several behemoths cruising the ledges off Jupiter, Florida, at any time of the year.

Moray Eel

The teeth are wicked sharp, but that doesn’t stop Spencer Slate from hand feeding the moray eel he’s nicknamed Sundance. It’s all part of his weekly Creature Feature dives, which take place on the coral reefs near Key Largo, Florida. The big eel isn’t the only animal that comes when Spencer pulls out some tasty fish treats. There’s also a large resident grouper that shoulders in for a bite, and at least one nurse shark, destined to become the recipient of one of Spenser’s bear hugs. Next, participants in the feed are given the chance to mug with the animals themselves while the dive shop’s photo pro shoots souvenir stills and video.

Humpback Whales

Every year from January to April, pods of humpback whales pass through a region known as the Silver Banks. Located some 60 miles north of the Dominican Republic, this marine sanctuary has become a prime destination for in-water humpback encounters. Due to the long runs from shore, these interspecies meet-ups are usually staged from liveaboard dive boats. If jumping overboard isn’t for you, opt for a single- day whale-watching trip in Samana Bay.

Loggerhead Turtles

Sea turtles are among the most common large animals found on reefs throughout the Caribbean, and they are usually quite tolerant of divers and snorkelers—though it’s never a good idea to chase or harasser them. The experience turns from ooh to wow when the encounter involves a loggerhead turtle. These heavyweight hard shells can grow to 300 pounds or more, and live to a half century. A good place to find them in shallow water is among the remains of the Sugar Wreck, which is located just off Grand Bahama’s west end.

Manatee

When Florida’s coastal waters grow cool in the winter months, resident herds of sea cows move into the relatively warmer waters of spring-fed estuaries such as Crystal River on the Gulf side of the state. There, it’s possible to don mask, snorkel and a wet suit to get up close with these gentle giants. Just don’t get too aggressive or attempt to touch them, as there are strict regulations regarding interactions. This will all be explained to you during the brief ride from dock to manatee sanctuary. For more than two decades, Bird’s Underwater has remained one of the most reliable and convenient operators for manatee encounters.

Nurse Sharks

The sound of an approaching boat draws an aquatic menagerie of moochers that includes grouper, jacks, southern stingrays and nurse sharks to the sandy shallows known as Shark Ray Alley. These fish were originally conditioned to seek scraps from local fishermen, who once stopped here to clean their catch. The site is now part of the Hol Chan Marine Reserve and one of the most popular aquatic attractions in Belize. The nurse sharks, typically as benign as their name implies, sometimes seem to nuzzle up to swimmers, but what they are really after is a handout. Several operators run trips to the site from nearby Ambergris Caye.

Reef Sharks

The Bahamas offer a wide range of shark-diving adventures, some mild, some wild. The most accessible, consistent and safest are the reef shark encounters offered by Stuart Cove’s Aqua Adventures. You can don scuba to watch these impressive predators take the bait during a shark-feeding dive, observe them circling below while snorkeling the reefs, or climb into one of Stuart’s unique one-person submersibles to motor among them. The shop picks up at most of the major resorts on New Providence and Paradise Island, and caters to everyone from first-timers to movie crews who come here for guaranteed action footage.

Wild Dolphins

The meetings between human and cetacean that take place in the bright, sand-bottom shoals of the Bahamas are nothing like the encounters staged with captive animals. These are spotted pods of wild, free- swimming dolphin. When they approach, it is of their own free will, not institutional conditioning. Pods can sometimes be found in the Little Bahama Bank, but it is near the small island of Bimini that they make their most consistent appearances. Dolphin day trips can be booked with tour companies on Bimini, or for an extended adventure, there are dedicated liveaboards offering trips of up to a week.

Stingrays

Stingray feeds have spread to several islands in the Caribbean, but the original and still the most popular takes place in the waters of Grand Cayman’s North Sound. Here, dozens of tour boats are drawn to a shallow patch of sand where a resident group of stingrays has been conditioned to accept a free seafood meal. While participants kneel or stand in the shallows, the rays flit among them, getting up close to create memorable photo ops. There are actually two adjacent sites where the rays are fed, and for the best experience, avoid the large boats that ferry cruise-ship crowds and opt for one of the smaller operators.

Whale Sharks

The idea of coming face to face with a 35-foot-long shark might be alarming, were if not for the fact that these filter-feeding giants gorge on plankton, not humans. In fact, when you find yourself in the path of one of these slow-moving fish, they seem to pay you little mind as they move forward with mouths agape to suck in their tiny prey. The best place to swim with whale sharks is on the Contoy Banks, which lie north of Cancun and are best reached by boats leaving from Isla Mujeres or the more remote Holbox Island. Prime whale-spotting season begins in late May and runs into early September.

exumas, chat n chill, Bahamas bar

Best Beach Bars in the Bahamas

 

Barefoot on the beach, keeping time to an island beat with a tasty libation in hand is the quintessential tropical vacation indulgence. Here are seven of the Bahamas’ best bars where you can do just that.

Nippers

best beach bars in the bahamas, Nippers, Abacos, BahamasGuana-Cay

Nippers overlooks the Atlantic on Guana Cay, Abacos. Photo: Debbie Snow

The view alone is intoxicating. Perched high atop a dune overlooking the blue Atlantic, Nippers is the place to spend the day on Guana Cay. Steps lead up from a sparsely-settled swatch of powder sand to a multilevel complex of decks, outdoor and indoor serving areas and a pair of swimming pools. Beach games, televised sports and live music add to the fun, creating at atmosphere that is festive but still family friendly.

Where: Great Guana Cay, Abacos

Must Try: Nipper Juice

Get There: Fly into Marsh Harbour airport, taxi and ferry to Guana Cay, short walk to the beach

Stay There: Dolphin Beach Resort on Guana Cay; Abaco Beach Resort in Marsh Harbour

Chat ’n’ Chill

Join the cruising crowd who take daily shore leaves from the sloops and trawlers that bob in adjacent anchorages. You’ll be rubbing shoulders with grizzled boat bums and CEOs alike, and the action spreads beyond the bar to the pine-shaded picnic tables and volleyball courts. Come for open-air worship on Sunday morning and stay for the pig roast, where banker-turned- restaurateur KB Bowe presides over the pit.

Where: Stocking Island, Great Exuma

Must Try: KB’s Rum Punch

Get There: Fly into Exuma International Airport, taxi to Georgetown, water taxi to Stocking Island

Stay There: St. Francis Resort on Stocking Island; Grand Isle resort or Sandals on Great Exuma

Nirvana

A respite from the hustle of Nassau and the swank of Paradise Island, Nirvana is an old-school board-and-thatch beach club where you can grab a bite, savor a cold one or rent a beach chair to enjoy access to the uncrowded—and otherwise inaccessible—Love Beach. The vibe is low key during the day, but the action heats up at happy hour, and the party can go well into the night.

Where: New Providence

Must Try: Margarita

Get There: Cab, rental car or the #10 bus from Nassau

Stay There: Compass Point Resort is next door; mid-range Blue Water Resort and Sandyport Beaches Resort are a few miles to the east

Billy Joe’s On the Beach

Billy Joe's, Grand Bahama

Billy Joe’s in Port Lucaya, Grand Bahama. Photo: Debbie Snow

This long-time landmark sits beachside, and in appealing contrast to the sleek, upscale Port Lucaya developments next door. There are no apologies for the rough plank flooring or plastic beach furniture because this place is all about direct water views, local music and what many consider the best conch salad in the islands.

Where: Lucaya, Grand Bahama

Must Try: Conch salad and a Kalik beer

Get There: Cab, rental car or stroll down the beach

Stay There: Pelican Bay and the Grand Lucayan are within walking distance; the value-priced Bell Channel Inn is a short cab ride

Bishop’s Big Boy Bar

It’s 45-minute pilgrimage east from Freeport to the quiet settlement of High Rock, where it may take a bit of searching to find Bishop’s Bonefish Resort. The reward is a near-deserted beach, and fresh run-and-juice concoctions served by Mr. Bishop himself. Rent snorkel gear to enjoy the reefs, then head over to the restaurant for some local seafood. It’s a no-frills place, but when sand, sun and sea are the focal points, you won’t miss the crowds, the DJs or the tiki torches.

Where: South shore, Grand Bahama

Must Try: Bahama Mama

Get There: Rent a car in Freeport and drive 25 miles east

Stay There: If quiet and simple are for you, book into Bishop’s adjacent seven-room resort

Sherri’s Paradise

The simple sundeck overlooking Bimini’s spectacular Radio Beach oozes island time; the adjacent yellow clapboard kitchen, with its variable hours and whatever-we-caught menu confirms the pace. Relax and order a cold one, because the cracked conch and lobster are worth the wait. You may want to linger even longer when there’s local music, or to catch a memorable sunset.

Where: Alice Town, Bimini

Must Try: Sherri’s Pina Colada

Get There: Fly to South Bimini and water taxi, or take a seaplane into the harbor

Stay There: Bimini Big Game Club remains the first choice while the future of Resort World is solidified

Pete’s Pub and Gallery

Pete's Pub, Abacos, Bahamas

Unique bar at Pete’s Pub, Little Harbour, Abacos. Photo: Debbie Snow

Eclectic doesn’t begin to describe Pete’s Pub and Gallery. Part beach bar, part art gallery, it features the works of Peter Johnson and his progeny, who form their bronze creations in the on-site foundry. Wade right into the harbor to cool off, climb the upper deck for water views, or walk the sandy path to the surf-washed Atlantic.

Where: Little Harbour, Abacos

Must Try: Pete’s Rum Blaster

Get There: Drive a half-hour south from Marsh Harbour or go by boat

Stay There: On site is Barnacle Bill’s Cottage, or the Abaco Club in Marsh Harbour

 

Kayaking the mangroves in Bonaire

Action Island: 10 Outdoor Adventures on Bonaire

 

You’ll see a lot of dive gear coming out of baggage claim at Bonaire’s airport, and all along the coastal road, pickups loaded with scuba tanks sit parked near favorite shore-entry points. Even the license plates proclaim “Divers Paradise.” But what if you don’t have the urge to submerge? Or are looking for something to do after touring the reefs? Sure, you can choose a beach lounge and a cool drink, but don’t settle in just yet, because adventure awaits.

Windsurfing

Neighboring Aruba was the first Caribbean island to become a windsurfing hot spot. But much of the action has shifted to Bonaire, where the waters of Lac Bay are swept by easterly trades, but protected from pounding surf. The epicenter of sailing action is Jibe City, where first-timers just learning to water start can mingle with some of the world’s best freestyle riders.

Kiteboarding

Kiteboarding along Bonaire's southwestern coastline

Kiteboarding along Bonaire’s southwestern coastline. Photo: iStock

Bonaire’s strong, steady trade winds are ideal for the high-flying sport of kiteboarding. The hot spot for kiting is along the island’s southwestern shore at Atlantis Beach. Offshore winds and calm near-shore waters allow beginners to practice their starts without fear of being driven onto a lee shore, while experts stage screaming exhibition reaches and high-flying tricks within camera distance of the beach’s iconic surf shack.

 

Hiking

The best hiking in Bonaire’s arid interior is at Washington Slagbaai National Park, which covers the entire northern end of the island. The two-mile climb up Mount Brandeis begins with a well-worn path, but ends as a scramble over boulders for a dramatic, wind-swept view of the island. At 780 feet, it’s the island’s tallest point. There are several other less taxing but equally memorable hiking paths in the park, including a coastal trail that leads to a spouting blow hole on surf-washed windward cliffs.

Stand-Up Paddleboarding

The SUP craze hasn’t missed Bonaire, and two of the island’s early adopters, Roan Jaspars and Frederick Vloeberghs now offer rentals, lessons and guided tours at SUP Bonaire. If you are paddling on Lac Bay, you can avoid the wind by plying the sheltered mangrove channels. But more often, tours and lessons launch from the calmer western shoreline, where you can enjoy solitude down by the Slave Huts or tour Kralendijk’s waterfront. On lighter wind days, the duo will lead trips across the channel to uninhabited Kline Bonaire.

Birding

No visitor to Bonaire should miss a chance to watch the pink flamingos wade in the shallows of Goto Lake or the Pekelmeer salt pans. If you are really into species identification, you can delve deeper by seeking out the more than 200 types of sea, shore and land birds that either call the island home or stop by during annual migrations. Local ornithologist Jerry Ligon leads tours for both novice watchers and avid ornithologists.

Bicycling

Bonaire's Washington-Slagbaai National Park biking

Bonaire’s Washington-Slagbaai National Park provides miles of dirt roads and challenging terrain. Photo: Debbie Snow

Bonaire offers something for all breeds of pedal-pushers. Caribbean Sports rents classic Dutch-style urban cycles for casual rides around town, or mountain bikes that are ready to take on the island’s challenging single track. For an adventurous but still comfortable in-between, head to Washington Slagbaai National Park for a day of cycling the unpaved loop road, with stops at some of the hidden coves and beaches.

 

Kayaking

Paddling excursions can be launched from most any place on the island’s western shore, and “kayak snorkeling” with clear-bottomed boats provides a different twist on a shoreline tour. The island’s favorite paddling adventure takes place in the mangrove channels in the northern end of Lac Bay, where nature tours begin at the Mangrove Information Center and wind through narrow, shaded waterways before emerging into the bright sunshine of the bay.

Caving

Bonaire’s limestone substrate is riddled with caves. But visits to these subterranean chambers require one to engage in “wild caving,” meaning no handrails, footpaths or built-in lighting. If you are in reasonable physical shape and don’t mind getting a bit dirty, this might be for you. One signature cave tour includes an underground snorkel trip in a clear-water pool.

Fishing

Outdoor adventures on Bonaire, Deep sea fishing

Yellowfin tuna are just one of the gamefish caught in the blue water that run close to Bonaire’s coast. Photo: Tom Balaguer / iStock

The blue waters surrounding Bonaire are fertile ground for a big game- fishing trip. For more than three decades, the man to charter for an angling success has been Capt. Chris Morkos. Whether it’s trolling for billfish and mahimahi, light-tackle plugging on the reefs or bottom fishing, his 42-foot twin-engine Piscatur is equal to the mission. For inshore action, Morkos can also set you up for catching outsized bonefish and permit on the flats.

Sailing

A day sail is a great way to see Bonaire’s coastline, hop over to Kline Bonaire or stage a longer voyage to visit the northern coves of the national park. The sailing catamaran Mushi Mushi is a good choice; its twin hull configuration is both stable and spacious. Even landlubbers can enjoy these passages because the sailing is done on the calmer, protected waters along the island’s west coast. Sunset sails are also a popular option.

 

BVI, sailing the baths

Discovering the British Virgin Islands by Boat

 

Planning a vacation to the British Virgin Islands (BVI) is a bit like opening a box of chocolates. So many tempting choices that it’s hard to choose just one. Nightlife or seclusion? Luxury villa or beachfront cottage? Each island has something slightly different to offer. So why not try them all. Gorging might be a bad thing when it comes to sweets, but if you take to the sea, you can sample the best of the BVI, setting your own pace and itinerary as you harbor hop.

Discovering the British Virgin Islands by Boat

Stowing a kayak aboard allows you to tour the harbor when the big boat remains tied to the mooring. Photo: Pierce Hoover

Ideal Islands

There’s a reason why the British Virgin Islands are the world’s favorite charter-boat destination. The islands seem made for recreational sailing. They are within sight of each other and arranged roughly in a rectangle, with Drake’s Passage in the middle. Predictable trade winds blow in from the east, and there are sheltered harbors and coves on every island. This favorable geography allows cruisers to set zigzagging courses between islands, with crossings lasting hours rather than days. You can leave port late, stop for a bit of snorkeling and still arrive in the next port before happy hour.

Cost-Effective Cruising

Think charter yachts are only for the mega wealthy? Not true. Vessels-for- hire come in all shapes and sizes, from compact sloops to luxury yachts. When you add up the cost on a per-person basis, a boating vacation can compare favorable with a resort stay. At the lower end of the range, a 32-foot sailboat suitable for a couple or family of four can be chartered for $2,000 to $2,500 a week—though in reality you’ll want to add about half of that amount to cover provisions, moorage fees and other incidentals. At the other end of the spectrum, a 65-foot luxury catamaran with crew could command 10 times that sum. But when split between four couples, even that ultra-luxe option breaks down to less than $400 a day per person, and that includes water sports, top-shelf libations and onboard meals created by a personal chef.

Self-Guided or Self-Indulgent

Mid-day libations at Tortolla's Cane Garden Bay

Midday libations at Tortolla’s Cane Garden Bay. Photo: Pierce Hoover

There are two primary types of charter offered in the British Virgins. A crewed charter is like a limo ride: You just sit back and let a professional do the work. A bareboat charter puts you in command—but only if are a competent sailor or powerboat operator capable of navigating around the islands and attending to the various details of shipboard life. As an in- between, many charter companies will add a captain to a bareboat charter for an additional fee. This gives novices a chance to learn the ropes without running afoul of the rocks.

 

 

One Hull or Two?

One of the first decisions you’ll make when choosing a charter boat is whether you want to go with a single-hull vessel or opt for a twin-hulled catamaran. Each has its merits. Serious sailors usually opt for a more traditional monohull, as they enjoy the sensation of a well-tuned craft heeling to leeward as the trade winds urge it forward. Catamarans usually offer a more gentile and upright passage. There’s more deck space on a cat and usually a more spacious central salon with large windows. Sleeping cabins on a cat may be slightly smaller in boats under 50 feet, as they sit in narrower hulls. Catamarans also tend to command a higher charter price as compared to a monohull of similar crew capacity.

Sail Away or Power Up?

A power catamaran BVI

A power catamaran eliminates the work of sailing and allows cruisers to ply calm, lee-shore waters. Photo: Christian Wheatley / iStock

To a sailor, there are few things better than spending the day reaching and tacking about before discovering new ports of call. For those who tend to focus less on the journey and are more about the destination, there are powerboat charters. Motor boaters typically make faster crossings than their sailing brethren, and under power, it’s sometimes possible to plan routes along more sheltered lees shores to avoid wind and waves. But when you do hit a cross sea without the stabilizing effects of a sail, there may be more rolling and pitching. Fortunately, the power catamarans that prevail in the BVI rental fleets are less susceptible to motion than single-hull motorboats.

Anchors Away

Setting an anchor can be tricky, especially in a crowded harbor where dragging the hook or swinging into another boat could dampen a vacation cruise. In addition, the steady wear and tear of metal hooks and chains on fragile sea bottoms can wreck havoc on the underwater ecosystem. In the British Virgins, there’s an easier way to stop for the night. Mooring balls have been installed in most all of the major anchorages. All you need do is loop a bowline around one, pay a modest usage fee and relax, knowing there’s no danger of crashing into another boat or a lee shore.

Beat the Crowds

Setting your own cruising schedule allows you to visit all of the BVI’s most popular landfalls, including The Baths, Cane Garden Bay and White Sound. Even better, you can do it in a time frame that avoids the crowds that often descend on these sites when tour buses and shuttle boats arrive. Cane Garden may be congested midday, but come early or stay late and you will have it practically to yourself.

Travel Like Others Can’t

Local shopping excursion on Cooper Island

Local shopping excursion on Cooper Island. Photo: Pierce Hoover

Having your own aquatic means of transport opens up a whole realm of destinations that are difficult, or in some cases impossible, to reach by cruise ship, ferry or island taxi. It also allows you to pack more into your day. For example, you could cast off after breakfast in Cooper Island, beat the crowds to The Baths, tie up for lunch in Spanish Town, spend an afternoon snorkeling the Dogs, and then head to North Sound for dinner at the Bitter End.

 

Shore Leaves

One of the best parts of cruising the British Virgins is creating your own itinerary. That said, here are some of our favorite stops that should not be missed:

The Bight at Norma Island

Be sure to stop and snorkel the Indians on the way over, then arrive in time to snag a mooring ball in the sheltered eastern end of the bay. Take the dingy over to the cliffs that hide Bluebeard’s treasure cave, swim and swill on the beach at Pirate’s Bight, or leave your inhibitions behind and tie up to the Willie T., the harbor’s notorious floating tavern.

The Baths National Park

You’ve probably seen the pictures. Giant boulders strewn along a white-sand beach like a giant’s abandoned marbles. Come early and tie into one of the park’s day-use mooring buoys, and you’ll have the prime location for snorkeling and exploring the rock formations.

North Sound

The protected waters of Virgin Gorda’s North Sound are home to several great beachfront resorts and eateries. Tie in close to the Bitter End Yacht Club and spend the day beaching it at the Sandbox on Prickly Pear, snorkeling the front reefs or skimming the bay on a rented dinghy or windsurfer. Head to Saba Rock to cap off the evening.

White Bay

The most laid-back beach scene on Jost Van Dyke island is at White Bay. Whether it’s the ring game at the Soggy Dollar or the hammock at Ivan’s Stress-Free Bar, this is beach bumming at its best. Stay for the night and you can, as Jimmy Buffett once sang, “see the lights of St. Thomas 20 miles west.”

Anegada

If time and your charter contract allow, a trip to Anegada is a passage back in time. Low lying and sparely settled, this is the place to spend a day sunning and swimming on the east coast beach of Loblolly Bay before returning for one of the island’s famous barbecue lobster dinners.

Snuba with turtles, st. thomas, USVI

3 Wild Water Sports on St. Thomas

 

St. Thomas is a water-sports paradise. You can fish for trophy marlin, dive wrecks, snorkel reefs, sail the trade winds, paddle a quiet cove or just relax on the beach. And in addition to these expected aquatic pleasures, you can also tap into some unique technologies that take you under—or over—the water in unusual and exciting ways. Here are three water adventures you have to try the next time you visit the island.

Ironman on the Water

Hovering on a flyboard, Lindberg Bay, ST. Thomas, Water sports on st. thomas

Hovering on a flyboard, Lindberg Bay, St. Thomas. Photo: St. Thomas Flyboarding

It’s the next best thing to Tony Stark’s flight suit. A couple of years ago, pro watercraft racer Franky Zapata routed the water-jet exhaust of his machine through a long hose to a stand-atop platform fitted with hand and foot nozzles. This launched an international craze now known as Flyboard®. Strap into one of these devices and you can soar and hover above the water like Ironman or redirect the water jets for a dive below the surface to race like a dolphin. To experience the rush for yourself, head to the Island Beachcomber Hotel, which is home base for St. Thomas Flyboarding.

Owners Tom Fields and Jeff Andrade were professional kiteboarders before discovering Flyboard®, and becoming early converts. They were certified as instructors for the new sport and started a part-time operation on the island of St. Kitts. In the summer of 2013, they relocated to St. Thomas and the Beachcomber. It’s an ideal location, Fields says, because they are close to town, but have direct access to Lindberg Bay, which has some of the calmest waters on the island’s south shore. Before taking to the air, neophyte fliers are given protective gear, such as helmets and life jackets, and introduced to the basics of flight control during a beachside orientation. Then it’s on to the water to practice hovering and controlling the board at low levels before gaining altitude.

“It’s easy to learn,” Fields says. “Our oldest customer so far was a 67-year-old lady, and she got the hang of it in five minutes. We start things off low and like to keep people in their comfort zone. But if you want to go for it, you can get as high as 30 feet.”

St. Thomas Flyboarding is currently launching just one guest at a time, and can handle about 20 participants a day. Reservations are suggested, and a morning flight gives you a jump on the cruise-ship traffic. Pricing runs $130 for 30 minutes or $200 for a full hour. stthomasflyboarding.com

Diving, No Tanks

Virgin Islands SNUBA Excursions operated for more than 20 years, putting thousands underwater. Photo: VI SNUBA Excursions

Virgin Islands SNUBA Excursions operated for more than 20 years, putting thousands underwater. Photo: VI SNUBA Excursions

Most everyone who has snorkeled a reef has felt the urge to go a bit deeper. Doing so usually requires you to take a SCUBA diving course, don heavy equipment and learn the rules of decompression and air management. Or, you could sign up for a SNUBA experience. This underwater breathing system leaves the tank on the surface in a small flotation raft and supplies air to the diver by way of a long air hose attached to a compact mouthpiece.

Diving with a SNUBA rig feels more like swimming, as there is no body-hugging buoyancy compensator or tank to create drag. Even more important, the air hose keeps the diver from going too deep and getting into trouble. By staying at depths of 20 feet or less—which is also the part of the reef that has the most color—and by limiting dive times to a half hour, SNUBA users don’t have to monitor risk factors such as nitrogen loading and ascent rates, which are important when SCUBA divers go deeper or stay longer.

To enjoy a SNUBA dive, participants need only to master two of the most basic skills of diving: clearing their ears on the way down by swallowing, and exhaling as they ascend. As a result, no special certification is required, and persons as young as 8 years old can participate. In addition, the dives take place under the watchful eye of a guide who is a certified divemaster or instructor.

Frank and Tammy Cummings are not only the original SNUBA guides in the U.S. Virgin Islands, they are probably the most experienced providers in the world. Frank was the first licensee for the SNUBA program, and since moving from Northern California to open Virgin Islands SNUBA Excursions some 26 years ago, he and Tammy have lead tens of thousands of participants underwater to enjoy the reefs of St. Thomas and St. John.

For a number of years, the Cummings worked with Coral World to host tours in St. Thomas’ Coki Bay. They still provide tours in this location, but Frank says he prefers St. John, where he leads smaller groups on excursions to less-crowded Trunk Bay.

“I don’t like to run the big numbers,” he says. “I’d rather give people a longer and more personal experience, and St. John is perfect for that.” Trunk Bay is not only a scenic venue, it is part of the Virgin Islands National Park and has some of the island’s best coral formations.

A SNUBA Tour with the Cummings runs $74 for adults, four dollars less for kids under 12. Frank says he’s guided a number of divers who were in their 80s, and recalls one who may have been north of 90. The only requirements are basic swimming skills and a sense of adventure. visnuba.com

Head in a Bubble

water-sports adventures on st. thomas, BOSS

The BOSS keeps the pilot’s head in an air bubble. Photo: Aqua Adventures

They resemble bubble gum dispensers set atop a vintage Vespa motor and go by various acronyms. Whatever the name, these personal submersibles allow a passenger to explore the underwater world while keeping their head out of the water.

In St. Thomas, these little underwater motor scooters are known as the BOSS, as in Breathing Underwater Submersible Scooter. It’s not quite a submarine because the air you breathe becomes slightly pressurized as you descend, and it’s constantly refreshed from a hidden air tank that bubbles gently into the cowling. But at the shallow depths at which these vehicles operate, there’s no need to worry about decompression or pressure changes, and all you need to do is breathe normally and admire the view through the hemispherical face plate. The view is accentuated by the curvature of the bubble, which creates a wide-angle vista much like a camera’s fisheye lens. This panoramic perspective keeps most people from feeling claustrophobic—and you can even wear your spectacles or contacts while inside.

Boss tours are given by Aqua Adventures, which stages day trips to Buck Island National Wildlife Refuge (not to be confused with the Buck Island Reef National Monument in St. Croix). From the harbor in Charlotte Amalie, it’s a 15-minute run in open water to a sheltered cove on Buck Island aboard a 60-foot motorboat that’s been specially configured to transport and launch the BOSS submersibles.

Once in calm water, there’s an orientation briefing, then passengers take their turn in the BOSS and spend the remainder of their trip snorkeling or relaxing on deck. You climb aboard while the scooter is on the surface, which requires just a quick duck-under to get your head into the bubble. Once you are comfortable, the tour guide, who is a certified divemaster or SCUBA instructor, will drop your vehicle down to its cruising depth of eight feet. This may sound shallow, but when looking out, you have the illusion of cruising deeper below the waves, thanks to the bubble optics, while features along the bottom are seen in sharp relief.

Minimum age for the adventure is 10, and the only physical requirement is the ability to climb a short dive ladder when re-boarding the boat, with crew ready to assist if need be.

The three-hour BOSS and snorkel excursion to Buck Island currently runs $129. This tour is popular with the cruise-ship crowd, so if you want to work it into an island stay, you should reserve well in advance. bossusvi.com