Tag Archives: Cuba

Cuba Trinidad Santisim Church

Authentic Caribbean: Church of Holy Trinity, Trinidad, Cuba

 

In the heart of Trinidad’s old town, the Church of the Holy Trinity overlooks the Plaza Mayor. It could be said that this neoclassical structure owes both its existence and notoriety to foul weather.

In the early 18th century, a powerful hurricane destroyed the first church that stood on this site. It took nearly 75 years to complete the grand edifice that would become one of Cuba’s largest churches. But it is not the architecture alone that has made this one of Cuba’s most noted religious institutions. The sanctuary is home to “El Señor de la Vera Cruz” (The Lord of the True Cross).

This 18th century wooden sculpture of Christ was originally to be shipped from Cuba to a church in Veracruz, Mexico. The ship carrying the statue was hit by bad weather when leaving Trinidad, and forced to return to port.

Twice more the vessel set sail, only to be rebuffed once more by bad weather, and forced to unload a portion of its cargo. Guided by what seemed an act of divine intervention, church officials decreed that the statue would remain in Trinidad, and to this day, the Lord of the Cross draws both the devout and the curios.

Cuba El Nicho Waterfall

Caribbean Cascades: El Nicho Waterfalls, Cuba

 

Most everyone who visits the central-Cuban cities of Trinidad and Cienfuegos finds their way to El Nicho Falls. Located in the Escambray Mountains, this site is one of Cuba’s most popular natural attractions, drawing locals and visitor alike with the promise of beautiful views, natural beauty and the chance to cool off in sparkling pools of water.

The Parque El Nicho is a small and scenic national park hidden within a wildlife refuge. The cascades known as El Nicho are actually a trio of waterfalls that spill into natural ponds. The Hanabanilla River feeds the waterfalls as it meanders through lush vegetation before it begins to cascade over rocks and ravines into a series of cool, crystal-clear pools.

An easy 10-minute walk takes you to the first set of falls, while an additional half-hour reveals additional cascades, along with beautiful views of the mountains and valleys of central Cuba. Additional marked and unmarked trails within the park also lead to caves and forests that showcase the island’s exotic flora and fauna, including Cuba’s national bird, the tocororo. These birds thrive in the mountains, and are easy to identify with their plumage of purple, red, black and white.

The park is located just outside of Cienfuegos, the trip can take over an hour with the often rough and winding country roads that pass traditional villages, plantations and fields of sugarcane. If driving a rental car, you’ll want to leave plenty of time to take in the scenery and possibly stop off at a coffee, mango or banana plantation. If driving isn’t in your plans than join one of the several excursions that leave from Cienfuegos. You can also take a local bus right to the entrance of the park.

Cuba Salto De Vegas

Caribbean Cascades: Salto Vega Grande, Cuba

 

To the west of the scenic town of Trinidad, the green slopes of Cuba’s Escambray Mountains rise to heights of 3,000 feet. Here, jungle rivers flow through steep canyons and plunge over waterfalls to fill cool, inviting swimming holes. Much of this rugged and verdant landscape is protected within the boundaries of the Gran Parque Natural Topes de Collantes.

This nature reserve is fast becoming a favorite with hikers and eco tourists, who can explore miles of pathways that wind through groves of ferns, bamboo and eucalyptus, and lead up to wooded slopes riddled with grottoes and caves. Some, such as the route to the popular Salto del Caburni falls, can be demanding, and will require sturdy walking shoes and several hours to complete.

By contrast, the footpath from the roadside to a view of the Vega Grande falls is short and relatively easy. After taking in the panoramic vistas, many visitors continue on to the base of the falls, where a sparkling freshwater pool awaits.

Cuba Partagas Cigar Factory

Authentic Caribbean: Partagas Cigar Factory, Havana, Cuba

 

Cuba is considered the birthplace of the premium cigar, and many legendary brands were created in factories located right in the capital of Havana. Among these, none are more recognized and revered than the Partagas label. The original factory, built by founder Don Jaime Partagas in 1845, is still in operation, though now owned and managed by the Cuban government. Inside, workers use traditional hand-rolling techniques to transform select aged tobaccos from the country’s Vuleta Abajo region into the distinctive smokes that are prized by cigar connoisseurs around the world.

Portions of the factory’s interior were renovated in 2012, but the distinctive neoclassical facade facing Calle Industria remains unchanged. The factory is literally across the street from Cuba’s capitol building, and any walking tour of Havana should include a stop at this historic landmark, where visitors can watch tobacco leaves being transformed into fine cigars by hand, and then shop for the finished product at the on-site store. A current trade embargo prevents the importation of Cuban cigars into the United States, but ongoing changes in policy may soon open the market.

 

Cuban Music

Best Caribbean Islands for Music

 

There are going to be guys, and sometimes girls, wearing floppy hats and serenading you from the Jimmy Buffet songbook no matter where you go. Get used to it. But that’s hardly the beginning or end of Caribbean music. The combination of European melodies with African rhythms and forms like the call- and-response chorus melodies has sparked a rich musical culture that is unlike any other. The litany of musical forms that have been invented in the region goes on and on: salsa, son, danzón, rumba … and that only covers Cuba. Add merengue and bachata from the Dominican Republic, calypso and soca from Trinidad, Bahamian rake ’n’ scrape and of course, reggae from Jamaica. And then there are the instruments, from the iconic steel drum to the cajon, marimba, timbales, conga, güiro, and cuatro. As W.C. Fields once remarked about Mae West, the region is a “feast for the eyes and easy on the ears as well.”

Jamaica

Bob Marley. That just about covers it, right? Not even. The superstar and music legend took the sounds of his native Kingston and blended them into a musical form that connects with millions worldwide. And Marley was just one of many artists—Peter Tosh, Bunny Wailer, The Skatalites, Black Uhuru and Buju Banton—who made it to international fame. They’ve been followed by dancehall DJs, jazz players and more recent breakouts like Tessanne Chin, who won Season 5 of NBC’s The Voice. Finding music in Jamaica is easy. In Montego Bay, try the annual Sumfest (mid-summer) for an introduction to all of the sounds of the island or pop into a club along Gloucester Avenue anytime.

Jamaica Music

Steel-Pan, the Caribbean’s iconic music is found throughout the islands and prevalent at beach bars, hotels and restaurants like this oceanside venue in Jamaica. Photo: Lisa F. Young/iStock

Cuba

Music is everywhere in Cuba, as are the people dancing. For a country that suffered so much for so long, it’s amazing how little it takes to get Cubans to break out into song and dance. It’s not only in their blood, it’s their national identity. Maybe this is what Wilson Pickett was singing about when he recorded Land of a Thousand Dances? If it’s not, it should have been. This is the birthplace of the rumba, the cha-cha, son and more beats that were heavily mined by American big band orchestras in the 1930s and 1940s. After Desi Arnaz pioneered a purer form of the music on the TV show I Love Lucy, it was the fusion sound of famous ex- pat Gloria Estefan that brought the Cuban beat to millions of American ears. If you want to hear what Cuba is doing now, Havana is still rocking it at places like Casa de la Musica or Cafe Cantante, while a more sedate experience awaits at Chan Chan, overlooking the Marina Hemingway in Miramar.

Cuba Music

Iterate musicians known as trovadores once roamed Cuba. Their musical style lives on at performing halls known as “Casa de la Trova,” which can be found throughout Cuba. Photo: Flavio Vallenari/iStock

Puerto Rico

Like their Cuban neighbors, Puerto Ricans love to dance. And boy, can they dance. San Juan is chock-full of clubs that heat up as the nighttime air cools down. From Old San Juan out to Condado and down past Santurce into Rio Piedras, clubs are everywhere. Not surprisingly, salsa is on the menu in most, but there are so many variations—from pure salsa to music mixed with jazz or hip-hop— that you’ll never be bored. Reggaeton is extremely popular as well. If you go, expect to see some blazing musicianship and expect to sweat, because you can’t sit still listening to these bands. They’re easy to find, too. If there’s a concert at the Anfiteatro Tito Puente—a big venue named for the New York- born superstar—buy a ticket. Or head for the El San Juan Resort & Casino on the beach in Isla Verde and dress in your best. A less elegant but no less impressive atmosphere can be found at the Nuyorican Cafe in Old San Juan, where an 18th century mansion has been converted to a jazz, rock and salsa club.

Puerto Rico Music

Puerto Rican Bomba music has roots in west African traditions. The rhythms are unique because the drummers follow the lead of the dancer rather than the other way round. Photo: Alfred Wekeloz/Shutterstock

Cuba Local Food

Best Caribbean Islands for Local Food

 

There are more opportunities for fine dining in the Caribbean than ever before. But sometimes, what’s wanted is a taste of the real thing: homegrown island cooking, rich in tradition, local ingredients and love. Whether dispensed from a street vendor’s cart, passed through the window of a colorful cottage or served up at a small beachside restaurant where the owner is also the cook, these are the tastes of the islands that can’t be duplicated. And on some select islands, the collision of European, African and Cariban flavors has produced some especially innovative and unexpectedly delicious results.

Jamaica

Some would argue that this is the king of Caribbean cuisines. The melding of Amerindian cooking techniques—barbacoa—with influences from Spain, England, West Africa, India and China gives Jamaican cuisine a distinctive flavor that’s traveled well. Carried by members of the Jamaican diaspora to distant shores, you can find good Jamaican restaurants all over the Eastern United States, in the U.K. and throughout the Caribbean. Jerk comes to mind instantly, of course, washed down with a cold Red Stripe. But there’s also Stamp and Go (cod fritters), coconut bread, festival (corn bread) and, of course, that delicious combination of flaky pastry crust and spicy meat filling known as patties. For jerk that’s hot off the grill, the vendors on Boston Beach are popularly called “the best,” though good jerk is available everywhere. For patties, Stamp and Go and others, street vendors in Kingston are the original source, but carts have made their way to north shore settlements as well.

Jamaica Jerk Chicken

Jamaican jerk chicken served restaurant style with fresh fruit and peas-n-rice. Street vendors across the island grill up simpler versions of this savory favorite. Photo: Shutterstock

Cuba

With its feet firmly planted in traditional Spanish cooking, Cuba’s cuisine is a kind of “mother tongue” for the Hispanic islands, rich in roasted and spicy slow-cooked meats, accompanied by a variety of staple starches, tempting pastries and fresh fruits. If your only exposure to Cuban has been in the form of a flat- pressed sandwich (which was actually invented in Tampa, Florida) just reading a menu should set your taste buds quivering: boliche (eye round steak stuffed with chorizo sausage), empanadas, croquetas, lechón asado (roast pork) and of course, black beans and rice. Havana’s cuisine has more hints of Creole, while the cooking in the east end of the island is more European. In Havana, 304 O’Reilly and La Guarida, which has a spectacular setting, are best bets. Take to the streets and you will discover a new world of tastes, that includes chicharritas de platano (paper-thin slices of fried plantain) frituras de malanga (deep-fried grated root vegetable mixed with egg and crushed garlic) and the ever- popular tostones, which when done right the plantain slices remain crispy on the outside while delivering a satisfyingly gooey center.

Cuban Ropa Vieja

Ropa Vieja, Spanish for “old clothes” is a classic Cuban dish made from braised and shredded flank steak that is then slow simmered in a spiced tomato sauce until tender. Photo: Sarah Bossert/iStock

Trinidad

While the majority of the population in Trinidad is of African decent,  there is a large ethnic group that descended from the indentured servants who came to the island from India. They brought with them spices and traditional preparation methods for curries, chutneys, roti, as well as words like aloo (Hindi “alu,” potato) pie and geera (Hindu “jira,” cumin) chicken. Creole influences have added savory stews and callaloo to the mix. On Trinidad one can find some of the most authentic Indian and Chinese cooking this side of the international dateline. But what’s most celebrated is the island’s street food: shark and bake (shark meat in a freshly baked bread), pow (roll stuffed with meat), and doubles (two pieces of fresh bread with chickpea filling). You don’t have to go far to find savory offerings of every variety. Plan a day at Maracas Bay near Port of Spain and take your pick of beachside vendors.

Trinidad, Indian Food

The cuisine of Trinidad draws heavily on East Indian influences, including traditional favorites such as curries, saffron rice, naan bread, samosas and pakora. Photo: Joe Gough/Shutterstock

Romantic Sunset in the Caribbean

The Caribbean’s Most Romantic Moments

 

Between the soft, enveloping trade winds and the scent of hibiscus and frangipani they carry, it’s a cold heart indeed that doesn’t feel at least a little romantic in the Caribbean. Almost any moonlit beach or relaxed restaurant can be the launching pad for love, but there are some special times and places that you should experience for yourself. Here are our picks for the Caribbean’s most romantic moments.

Picnic at Fort Rodney, Pigeon Island, St. Lucia

“A Book of Verses underneath the Bough / A Jug of Wine, a Loaf of Bread / and Thou Beside me singing in the Wilderness….” Omar Khayyam never saw Pigeon Island on St. Lucia, but no doubt it was just this sort of place he had in mind when he wrote his famous quatrain. Pack your bread and wine and head up the hiking trail to Fort Rodney. The view from on top is magnificent, sweeping across Rodney Bay and Reduit Beach. The fort and bay are named for Admiral George Rodney, who bedeviled the French, Spanish and Dutch fleets in the 18th century. There are cannons commanding the seaway leading to Gros Islet and plenty of spots to sprawl on a blanket in the shade of the ruined fortifications.

St Lucia Pigeon Island

The site of historic forts and the source of magnificent views, St. Lucia’s Pigeon Island is now joined to the main island, thanks to a man-made earth causeway added in the 1970s. Photo: St Lucia Tourist Board

Equinox, Temple of Kukulkán, Mexico

Both mysterious and mystical, the Maya temples of the Yucatan make you feel the vastness of time and spark appreciation for the pleasures and people of the present. A short drive from Cancun, the largest structure at Chichén Itzá is “El Castillo,” the Temple of Kukulkán, the Feathered Serpent. On the spring and autumn equinoxes, the steps that ascend the pyramid cast a moving shadow that looks like a large, feathered snake slowly crawling down the structure’s stone side. Avoid the hordes of addled New Agers by visiting a few days before or after the equinox. The serpent will still appear and you can enjoy each other’s company without so many spectators. How considerate of the Mayan astronomers to put on a light show just for the two of you.

Chichén Itzá’s Kukulkan, exico

Each year at the times of the spring and fall equinox, evening shadows on Chichén Itzá’s Temple of Kukulkán create patterns that resemble a giant serpent ascending the stairs. Photo: Victor Pelaez/iStock

Sunset at the Rogativa Statue, San Juan, Puerto Rico

The stone fortifications that protected San Juan have been stout enough to survive for more than 400 years. But in 1797, the city was almost forced to surrender to British troops. Sir Ralph Abercrombie and his invasion fleet lay at anchor in the harbor. The bishop of San Juan recruited scores of women and led a torchlight parade, called a rogativa, atop the city’s walls to pray for deliverance. Seeing the huge procession of torches, the Brits concluded the town had been massively reinforced. The hoisted their anchors and sailed away in the night. A statue commemorating the event stands in the Plazuela Rogativa overlooking San Juan Harbor. At sunset, the city walls and the statue are bathed in a glow thick and sweet as orange marmalade while the lights blink on across the opposite shore.

Altos de Chavon, La Romana, Dominican Republic

Perched on the heights overlooking the languid Chavon River in southeastern Dominican Republic, Altos de Chavon is a re-creation of a 16th century Mediterranean village. Cobblestone streets meander past small shops, art galleries and restaurants, while a broad walkway along the cliff’s edge invites extended gazing over a rolling landscape that encompasses the Casa de Campo golf course. Head over to St. Stanislaus Church and sit in the niche that holds the church’s bell to watch the bougainvillea lining the ravine glow as the sun disappears. Afterward, enjoy a long, lingering dinner.

Dominican Republic La Romana Altos De Chavon

An authentic replica of a medieval European village, the buildings and cobblestone streets of Altos de Chavon were fabricated from the rock spoils of a nearby highway project. Photo: Debbie Snow

Sunrise, Pink Sands Beach, Bahamas

The east side of Harbour Island, just off Eleuthera in the central Bahamas, is rimmed by three glorious miles of pink sand. The beach is wide and lapped by gentle waves muffled by the offshore reef. The distinctive color comes from tiny foraminifera, single-celled organisms that create a pink shell. They die by the millions to create a colorful carpet for lovers. Get to the beach before the sun comes up and watch as the first tendrils of light skip across the tops of the waves onto the sand. Work up your various appetites before heading back to your hotel for breakfast and a rest.

The Tropicana, Havana, Cuba

This is the Caribbean’s original den of iniquity. Although not quite as lively as it was pre- Castro when it was run by mobsters Meyer Lansky and Santo Trafficante Jr., the stage show at the Tropicana celebrates the primal Afro-Caribbean rhythms of Cuba and serves them up with plenty of skin and sizzle. A night in the Salon Bajo las Estrellas with scantily clad dancers scampering along catwalks in the towering trees that line the outdoor showroom will have you feeling the heat.

Cuba Tropicana Club

Since 1939, the cabaret shows at the Tropicana Club have remained one of Cuba’s most iconic acts. Today, the lights shine brighter than ever to welcome a new wave of tourism. Photo: Compflight

Swimming in the Bahia Fosforescente, Parguera, Puerto Rico

On the southwest coast of Puerto Rico near La Parguera is a bay with a shallow entrance that traps microscopic bioluminescent critters. Find a local guide with a small boat, take your mask and snorkel and head out on a moonless night. Test the waters by trailing your hand overboard—when you find the plankton, the friction of your fingers will cause them to glow bright green. Slip overboard and watch in amazement as the two of you literally light up the night.