Tag Archives: Montserrat

BVI Sandy Spit

The Caribbean’s Best Deserted Beaches

 

When it’s peak season and the cruise ships are in port, it can be a challenge to find a place to park your towel at some of the Caribbean’s most popular beaches. But if you are willing to travel a bit off the beaten path, the crowd scene thins and there are even some stretches of unvisited sand to discover. We can’t guarantee these five choice sites will be completely deserted, but there’s a good chance you and any fellow beachcombers you encounter will be outnumbered by seabirds, iguanas and crabs.

Barbuda

Antigua’s little sister is all about the beach. This low-lying Caribbean outpost is essentially a huge sand spit surrounded by coral reefs. The island’s 17-mile ring of sandy shores remains pristine, due to a lack of development, and the residents’ desires to keep it that way. There are actually pair of modest hotels on the island that cater to off-grid travelers wishing to disappear for a few days and enjoy a low-key vacation. More common are the day-trippers who made the 40-mile hop from Antigua to snorkel, explore the caves and lagoons or head into the mangroves to watch the frigate birds. The island’s longest strand is a 10-mile stretch of pink sand on the southwest shore that is protected by a barrier reef. It’s a great place for a long walk.

Barbuda Beach

The remote and sparsely settled island of Barbuda is ringed in white sand beaches where one can walk for miles and rarely see another human. It can be reached from the sister island of Antiqua. Photo: Antigua & Barbuda Tourism Authority

Uvero Alto, Dominican Republic

An escape from the crowds that frequent the white sands of Punta Cana is closer than one might think. Just 45 minutes from the Dominican Republic’s busiest resort area is the town of Uvero Alto, where the beach offers an entirely different vibe. Here, the crowds are non-existent, the sands are coffee colored and the seas are azure. Much of the wide stretch of beach is backed by coconut palms, and is favored for walking and horseback rides. Swimming and wading are best done close to shore or in reef- protected areas, as the seas farther offshore tend to get wild, because Uvero Alto faces the Atlantic. With far more sand that people; this is a great place to enjoy nature at its best.

Dominican Republic Uvero Alto Beach

A short drive away from the bustling beaches of the Dominican Republic’s Punta Cana resort area, the coast of Uvero Alto provides a far less crowded scene. Photo: Debbie Snow

Savannah Bay, Virgin Gorda, British Virgin Islands

Virgin Gorda is home to one of the most sought after beaches in the Caribbean. To find solitude, skip the world-famous boulders of The Baths and head north from Spanish Town to the sheltered waters of Savannah Bay. Here, a soft sand beach is flanked by green shrubs, with just a few inconspicuous villas peaking through the foliage at the north end. The bay is a local favorite for swimming and snorkeling, but most days you will share the sand with only a handful of people. Sea kayakers are often seen exploring the coastline, and it’s an ideal spot for a snorkel trip or a beach picnic. Just remember to bring your own provisions, because there isn’t a gift shop or restaurant in sight.

Savannah Bay BVI

On the island of Virgin Gorda, the quiet beach at Savannah Bay sees few visitors, even on days when the far more famous boulder fields of The Baths is packed. Photo: Christian Wheatley/iStock

Rendezvous Bay, Montserrat

Beaches are few and far between on this island, where much of the coastline meets the sea in low rock bluffs. But those willing to make the effort can enjoy some truly remote bits of sand. The island itself is a study in greens and grays. Rolling hills and forested mountains dominate interior, but to the south, fields of ash and lava serve as reminders of the last eruption by the Soufrière Hills Volcano. Grass and trees are now reclaiming this landscape, and hiking trails unveil the green isle it was once known as. Meanwhile, the island’s handful of remote beaches is left for the birds and the adventurous. All but Rendezvous Bay Beach are made of grey or black volcanic sand. Rendezvous, on the northwest coast, offers white sand and solitude, as it can be reached only by boat or a hike from Little Bay.

Montserrat Rendezvous Bay

It will require a hike or a boat ride to reach Montserrat’s only white sand beach, but the reward is often having the shores of Rendezvous Bay all to yourself. Photo: David Mac Gillivary/ Montserrat Tourism Board

Gelliceaux Bay, Mustique

With only 800 residents and even fewer visitors, there’s a good chance you can find a stretch of sand on Mustique that you won’t have to share. The island’s irregular coastline is indented with numerous bays and coves that harbor stretches of white sand. A favorite is Macaroni Beach, which receives the majority of the island’s modest influx of visitors, but even this site never becomes anything close to packed. For a true taste of solitude, head to the southeastern coast and Gelliceaux Bay, where the calm waters of the cove are ideal for swimming, snorkeling or paddle boarding. Save for the occasional beach walker staying in a nearby villa, you are likely to have it all to yourself.

Mustique Beach

Gelliceaux Bay is the most secluded beach on the island of Mustique. Its calm waters are sheltered by tall headlands that create ideal conditions for swimming and snorkeling. Photo: Paul Joynson/The Mustique Company

British Virgin Islands Anegada

Off the Beaten Path Caribbean

 

One of the great things about going to the Caribbean is discovering those quiet places where you can disconnect and turn off the outside world. Not an easy thing to do in busy cruise ship ports or when staying at a mega resort. But fortunately, there are islands that hold on to their past, have a respect for nature and the environment and provide all the ingredients for an ideal escape. Here are five of my personal favorites.

Saba

Saba

Saba’s coastline rises precipitously from the sea. Instead of sandy beaches and waving palms, this island offers picturesque villages and hiking trails that lead to cloud forests. Photo: Debbie Snow

Saba is a Caribbean island unlike any other. There are no palm- lined beaches, no casinos or nightclubs, no cruise ships, and never, ever a crowd of tourists. Rising steeply from the sea, Saba’s green-clad slopes are dotted with a collection of storybook villages, where white-walled cottages sport green shutters and red roofs, and stonewalls are layered in flowering vines. A single highway carves a serpentine path along the slopes to connect these settlements; hiking trails fan outward and upward to elfin- like cloud forests that thrive in the highlands of the long-extinct volcanic summit. Surrounding waters, which lie within a marine reserve, provide divers with unique underwater geological formations and fish-laden reefs. The island is so small that everyone knows everyone. It’s friendly and whimsical at the same time. Though connected to the world by both island ferry and small planes, Saba maintains a sense of otherworldly isolation that’s increasingly hard to find in the modern world.

Anegada

Anegada

Anegada’s beaches are never crowded. Some hardly see a human footprint, as most visitors congregate at one of several lively beach bars along the central coast. Photo: Christian Wheatley/iStock

Twenty miles of blue water separate the low-lying shores of Anegada from higher-profile islands of the British Virgins. And it’s not just geography that sets this less-visited outpost apart. Miles of near-deserted white-sand beaches overlook a barrier reef that has claimed hundreds of shipwrecks. A smattering of small guesthouses and fishermen’s camps line the western coast, and much of the interior remains an unsettled realm of tropical scrub and salt marsh. A handful of day-trippers make the crossing from the island of Virgin Gorda each day, settling in at one of the beach bars on the windward coast, and some linger for the island’s signature dinner of barbecue lobster. Come evening, things get really quiet, and the stars come out in a sky where no streetlights mar the view.

Montserrat

Montserrat

Clouds hover over the peak of Montserrat’s Soufriere Hills. Two decades after this volcano’s last major eruption, visitors are once again discovering this green gem of an island. Photo: Debbie Snow

Once known as the “Emerald of the Caribbean” Montserrat was a green and fertile island that attracted discriminating visitors who appreciated the bucolic lifestyle. In 1995, a volcano came to life, spewing lava, smoke and ash that forced more than half the island’s population to evacuate. Today the Soufriere Hills Volcano still spurts some steam and ash, but scientists predict the eruption cycle is waning and will soon die out. Today, the island’s southern coast is coated with hardened lava that reaches from the cone to the coast. Meanwhile, the northern part of the island has returned to green and eco-tourism has taken off. Hiking is a favorite activity. The northern hills are laced with a network of forest footpaths, while a trip to the south takes you into an otherworldly landscape that presents a fascinating glimpse at the aftermath of the eruption.

Bequia

Bequia

An island ferry departs the anchorage at Bequia’s Admiralty Bay. In centuries past, this harbor sheltered pirates, merchantmen and whalers. Today, it’s a favorite with cruising yachtsmen. Photo: iStock

Maritime traditions run deep in Bequia, and continue to this day. Native shipwrights still handcraft island-style boats using tools and traditions passed down through generations. Reminders of the island’s pirate past and whaling days linger, but the anchorage at Admiralty Bay is now filled by cruising yachtsmen, who include this favorite port of call on sails through the Grenadines. Bequia does receive visits by day-trippers from small cruise lines, but their temporary presence doesn’t overwhelm, and merely adds an extra dimension to the waterfront activity. The main street is for pedestrians only and an eclectic mix of bars and restaurants that hug the waterfront. Settle in and you’ll likely hear tales of voyages far and near, and maybe a few tales of the old days.

Iles des Saintes

Les Saintes

The largest of the trio of islands of Les Saintes, Terre-de-Haute delights with a scenic waterfront district where small cafe’s and restaurants deliver a taste of France. Photo: Oliver Hoffmann/iStock

On this trio of small islets off the southern coast of Guadeloupe, the best of France has been transported to the Caribbean. On Terre-de-Haut, the largest of the three, the town of Le Bourg provides a quintessential seaside setting, to which is added a Gallic touch. Think café au lait, crisp banquettes hot from the oven, and just-caught seafood simmering in white wine and savory herbs. Most visitors are French, which adds a refreshing European flavor to the scene. Many come from the main island of Guadeloupe for the day and are gone by sunset. Stay at one of the island’s small hotels and you can practically have the place to yourself after five o’clock.