St. John Aerial
Seen from above, the US Virgin Islands present a tantalizing hint of what lies below. When Caribbean waters transition from deep blues to vibrant aquamarines, it is a sign that snorkel worthy coral reefs and swimmer friendly sandbars await. An aerial view of the island of St. John reveals the shallows of Cruz Bay, and a ring of reef around tiny Steven Cay. Photo: Christian Wheatley/iStock
Sea Turtles
Coral reefs along the northern coast of the island of St. John are a favorite haven for sea turtles like this young green turtle, which is cruising among stands of Elkhorn coral. These turtles are important to the health of the reef, as their grazing helps keep algae growths under control. Photo: Christian Wheatley/iStock
Trunk Bay
Want to find the best places to snorkel from a beach? Look for the dark patches in the water that show up against the lighter sand bottom. Here at St. John’s Trunk Bay, the underwater snorkel trail is located in the patch of rocks that lie between the beach and the smaller island of Thatch Cay. Photo: Christian Wheatley/iStock
St. Thomas Aerial
On the eastern end of St. Thomas, the outlying islands of West Cay and Salt Cay actually straddle the boundary between the Caribbean Sea and the Atlantic Ocean. Maybe it’s just the way the light hits, but the Atlantic waters on the left side of the photo seem just a bit bluer. Photo: Christian Wheatley/ iStock
Swirls of Baitfish
On shores where the shallow reefs of the US Virgin Islands run close to deep water, schools of baitfish move close to shore to escape the marauding game fish that lurk in the open ocean. When this happens, snorkelers are immersed in swirling clouds of living silver. It is an experience that can be both exhilarating and slightly disorienting. Photo: Kelly vanDellen/iStock
Buck Island Aerial
A direct overhead view of St. Croix’s Buck Island Reef National Park clearly shows the maze of coral channels that are the site of an underwater snorkeling trail. Here, interpretive slates lead snorkelers along a guided route, and provide insights into the intricacies of the coral reef environment. Photo: NOAA
St. Croix Underwater
A coral encrusted pile of concrete rubble beneath St. Croix’s Frederiksted Pier has become home to a green moray eel. Despite displaying seemingly vicious teeth, morays are not generally aggressive, and are likely to bite only if they feel threatened or are harassed. Photo: USVI Department of Tourism
Seen from above, the US Virgin Islands present a tantalizing hint of what lies below. When Caribbean waters transition from deep blues to vibrant aquamarines, it is a sign that snorkel worthy coral reefs and swimmer friendly sandbars await. An aerial view of the island of St. John reveals the shallows of Cruz Bay, and a ring of reef around tiny Steven Cay. Photo: Christian Wheatley/iStock
The historic pink hotels that grace beaches in Florida and the Caribbean harken back to the palazzos built by wealthy Italian families in the 19th century. When pink crossed over to the New World it was embraced by builders of the 1920s and beyond.
Bermuda is a destination that is all about pink; there are pink sand beaches, pink mopeds, pink Bermuda shorts and pink buildings. Here, the pink Fairmont Southampton stands out among the green landscape of Southampton Parish.
The best way to see St. Thomas is from the top. The mountain ridge that forms the island’s spine offers a number of scenic spots that beg for a photo op, and entice observers to linger and take in the big picture. At several, you can even sit and enjoy a cool libation while drinking in the views. Here are five overlooks that shouldn’t be missed.
The Drake’s Seat overlook is named for the famous English privateer Sir Francis Drake, who once used this hilltop vantage point to keep watch over his fleet, and scan the horizon for passing Spanish galleons. This panoramic view faces north and takes in Hans Lollik Island, Thatch Cay and the British Virgin Islands of Jost van Dyke and Tortola. There is no shop or bar here, just a parking area off Hull Bay Road, and a couple of benches. But the views are definitely worth a stop.
The elevated vantage point at Drake’s Seat takes in views of Magens Bay and the British Virgin Islands, where pirate ships once lurked awaiting passing ships. Photo: Debbie Snow
The highest point on the island is also one of the most popular. Mountain Top was St. Thomas’ first major tourist attraction since back in the day, and lays claim to being the birthplace of the Banana Daiquiri. This hilltop observatory perches 1,500 feet above the Caribbean, and provides sweeping views of Magens Bay, St. Thomas and 20 surrounding islands. In addition to t-shirts, hats and all manner of souvenirs, the on-site gift shop sells nautical antiques and ship models.
An often-overlooked vantage point on the way to the top of the island is the Mafolie Hotel, which has one of the best decks for taking in views of the downtown waterfront some 800 feet below. This hotel, along with the restaurant and bar, has been an island favorite since 1952, and continues to be one of the best spots to dine with a view of the harbor lights at night. It’s also a great place to take in a sunset with a Mafolie Painkiller or Mafolie Passion, two of their signature drinks.
The outdoor deck at the Mafolie Hotel is a favorite with locals and tourists alike, and one of the best places on the island to enjoy dinner served with harbor views. Photo: Debbie Snow
The quickest and easiest way to get from the waterfront to a hilltop view is by boarding the aerial tram at Havensight to Paradise Point. The Skyride gondolas carry passengers up 700 feet to the top of Flag Hill, where there’s a bar, restaurant, gift shop and nature trail. This is another good spot to watch the boat traffic below, or take in a sunset. There are good views of Charlotte Amalie, and on clear days you can see all the way to St. Croix, Vieques and Culebra.
Gondola cars carry passengers from the cruise ship docks on the Charlotte Amalie waterfront up to an overlook deck and restaurant at Paradise Point. Photo: Chrissy Rhodes/Paradise Point
This elevated oasis is easy to find, as it is perched at the eastern end of the scenic route known as Skyline Drive. The observation platform looks down on Charlotte Amalie and across the water to neighboring Water Island and Hassel Island. Fruit daiquiris are the house specialty, and the deck is a great place to linger with one of these signature concoctions while watching the comings and goings of boats in the harbor below.
Hawksnest? Seen it. Trunk Bay? Been there, done that, got the t-shirt. Once you’ve hit the most popular beaches on the island of St. John, it’s time to head off the beaten path to some of the lesser known, yet equally stunning, stretches of shoreline. Let us take you to our top five secluded St. John beaches, but shh…don’t tell your friends.
The seclusion of a private beach and the renowned beauty of St. John’s north shore come together at Little Cinnamon. Located west of much larger Cinnamon Bay, this private paradise is a short walk through a wooded trail and a quick scramble over a rocky point away from the main beach. Little Cinnamon boasts the same pristine waters and soft white sand as the more popular north shore beaches, along with a curious added bonus: a plane wreck. The wreck of a Cessna that crashed and sank just off the shoreline is still visible, its propeller, engine, and one of the wings peeking out from the sandy ocean floor.
Little Cinnamon Bay is just a short walk from the main beach, but far away from the crowds. The remains of a small airplane make for interesting snorkeling. Photo: Andrea Milam
Sometimes hard work offers the best rewards. Case in point: Brown Bay. This gorgeous, secluded, never crowded beach on the eastern end of St. John’s north shore is your prize at the end of a moderately difficult 30-minute hike through one of the dryer, hotter areas of the island. Soft white sand begs you to plop down for an afternoon nap, but first, take a dip in the bay’s warm waters. The combination sandy and grassy bottom is home to a huge population of conch. Snorkel out toward the point on the east side of the bay and you’ll see a wide variety of corals along with larger fish.
The half-hour hike required to reach Brown’s Bay keeps the crowds away. Those who do make the trip are rewarded with soft white and clear water. Photo: Andrea Milam
There’s a sweet little spot on St. John’s north shore called Peace Hill. It’s got a sugar mill ruin with sweeping ocean views, and is a short, easy walk from a small parking lot. Make the quick trip up the hill to take in the view, but on the way back down the hill, duck left into the bush about 20 yards before the parking lot. About a 10-minute walk down an infrequently maintained but generally quite passable spur trail, Denis Bay is a little slice of often-private heaven. This small strip of pristine white sand boasts excellent snorkeling along with shade if you want it, and plenty of sun if you don’t.
An unmarked by easily passable trail from Peace Hill leads to Denis Bay. Those who make the ten-minute walk will discover good snorkeling and an uncrowded swatch of sand. Photo: Andrea Milam
Hawksnest is arguably one of St. John’s most popular beaches. Go there early and grab a parking spot, then hit the beach and head west. Walk right on past the beach-goers tucked into the shade of the sea grape trees; you know better than them. A short hike through a wooded beachfront trail followed by an easy scramble over a rocky outcropping later, and you’re at your own private beach: Little Hawksnest. This small stretch of soft coral sand is as beautiful as any of the island’s other north shore beaches, without the crowds. Entry into the water is a soft, sandy, gentle slope. Don’t bother on high surf days, however, as the beach all but disappears beneath the waves.
Next door to St. John’s popular Hawksnest Beach, the smaller beach known as Little Hawksnest provides a quiet refuge from the crowds. Photo: Andrea Milam
This beach is so far off the beaten path it doesn’t even have a name. On St. John’s East End, past the popular Vie’s Snack Shack and the sign advertising “Hansen Bay,” you’ll see a small dirt pull-off to your left and a large tree shading a small sandy and rocky beach to your right. This modest little patch shares Hansen Bay with Vie’s Beach while maintaining an ends-of-the-earth feel. You may share this beach with a local from time to time, and you’ll most definitely encounter a chicken or two, but for the most part, it’s all yours.
The small, no-name beach that sits at the end of the road to Hansen’s Bay almost guarantees privacy and good snorkeling for those who find it. Photo: Andrea Milam
The smallest of the U.S. Virgins, St. John offers a more intimate and natural take on island life. It is just nine miles long by five miles wide, but rolling hills, contorted coastlines and winding roads make it appear to be much larger. There is only one town, and two-thirds of the island is owned by the National Park Service, ensuring that beaches are kept free of large resorts, and hillsides are laced with hiking trails rather than freeways.
The beaches along St. John’s north shore are among the most beautiful in the world. In postcard-perfect settings, sheltering bays of sparkling turquoise waters meet soft white sands lined with coconut palms and sea grape trees. Because these beaches lie within a national park, there are no high-rise hotels to mar the view. At famous strands such as Trunk Bay, Hawksnest and Cinnamon, its best to arrive in the morning or late afternoon to avoid the cruise ship crowds that make day trips from St. Thomas. Less visited but harder to find are Salomon, Francis and Little Hawksnest.
St. John’s Trunk Bay is considered one of the most beautiful beaches in the Caribbean. Just beyond the white sands, a guided snorkel trail leads through coral gardens. Photo: David Coleman/iStock
This small island throws a big party. The St. John Festival is a month-long event that combines the traditions of Carnival with celebrations of emancipation and independence. The party kicks off in early June when the sounds of steel pan bands fill the air at Franklin Powell Park. The next 30 days are filled with races, regattas, pageants, concerts, food fairs and the opening of a Festival Village. The celebration culminates in observations of Emancipation Day on July 3, and a parade and fireworks on the Fourth of July.
A children’s troupe takes part in the annual Fourth of July parade during St. John’s month-long festival and carnival that includes food, music, dance and pageantry. Photo: Christian Wheatley/iStock
On St. John, happy hour starts early and runs late. Judging by the number and variety of bars that dot the island, you might think drinking was the national pastime. But libations are typically enjoyed at a causal pace known as Limin’, which is more social event that indulgence. Cruz Bay is home to an ongoing meet up that moves from bar to bar, while on the other side of the island at Coral Bay, locals gather to play darts, watch sports and grab a bite. Favorites are the lobster rolls at the Tourist Trap or burgers at Woody’s back in town.
During the Danish colonial times, the island was dotted with sugar plantations and the stone windmills that crushed cane into valuable syrups. The cane fields have long since returned to forest, but remnants of fallen mills are found throughout the island. One of the largest and best-preserved mills can be found at Annaberg Plantation, where the stonewalls of the tallest mill in the Virgin Islands still stands. At Zozo’s, the shell of another 18th- century sugar mill overlooking Caneel Bay Resort has been incorporated into a hilltop restaurant that combines elegant dining with sweeping island views.
The seaside village of Cruz Bay is the hub of island activity. The town ferry dock is the link to the outside world, with boats constantly arriving and departing for St. Thomas and the British Virgin Islands. Just steps away is a lively downtown filled with an eclectic mix of small shops, restaurants and bars. Nicknamed “Love City,” Cruz Bay puts out a welcoming and carefree vibe, where backpackers and sailors mingle with escaped Wall Street executives and the good times flow freely into the streets.
If hotels aren’t your thing, St. John is your island. With more than 500 private homes, villas and condos in the rental pool, vacation stays in private residences is the island norm. Many properties provide ocean views from elevated decks, and include private pools. Couples, families and groups have a range of choices from intimate bungalows to six-bedroom compounds set on lushly landscaped grounds.
Many of the hillside residences scattered across St. John are available for rent, providing a more personal and private vacation experience for families and groups. Photo: Christian Wheatley/iStock
In keeping with the island spirit, animals often roam free. It’s not unusual to see mama hen walking down the streets of Cruz Bay with chicks in tow. On the island’s east end, donkeys are often seen on rural roads as they make their way from field to field. Slow down or stop your car and they will come over and nudge you for a pat on the head or a snack. Keep your eyes peeled as you drive through the hilly countryside of the national park and you may catch a glimpse of the white tail deer that were originally brought to the island to be hunted, but now roam free and unmolested.
The wild donkeys that roam the fields and woodlands of St. John are descendants of plantation draft animals. They often approach humans in hopes of a snack or a nuzzle. Photo: Kirsten Hammelbo/iStock
Thanks to Laurence Rockefeller, almost three quarters of St. John is now a national park. In 1956, the famous philanthropist donated some 5,000 acres to the Federal Government, and subsequent land donations have increased the park’s holdings to more than 7,200 acres. In addition to harboring some of the most scenic beaches in the Caribbean, the park offers 22-well marked hiking trails that provide everything from easy half-hour strolls through wooded valleys to all-day hikes to remote hilltops and deserted beaches. Popular hikes include Reef Bay Trail and Ram Head Trail, which provide dramatic sea views.
The gin clear waters that surround the island invite immersion. The best snorkeling is at Trunk Bay, where an underwater snorkeling trail has been laid out and managed by the National Park Service. Here, markers and identification plaques lead you through coral gardens filled with tropical fish. The site is popular, and can become crowded at times, but is well worth the visit. Among the less visited yet very snorkel worthy sites along the north coast are Hawksnest Beach, Maho Bay Beach and Cinnamon Bay Beach where you can spend an entire day underwater.
Coral reefs lie just offshore of many St. John beaches. Protected by national park status, these reefs sport colorful growths of sea fans and swirling schools of tropical fish. Photo: iStock
Cruz Bay is the jumping off point for day trips to other islands. In addition to connecting to St. Thomas, ferries run to destinations in the British Virgins, including the capital of Tortola and the beaches of Jost van Dyke. A wide range of private boats can also be chartered for bar hopping trips to Jost van Dyke, snorkeling trips to Sandy Cay and day sails to the many small islands nearby.
The Caribbean is home to thousands of snorkel-worthy beaches and reefs, and I’ve spent hundreds of hours exploring sites near and far. For the optimum combination of calm water, easy access, vibrant coral growth, abundant fish life and sheer variety, here are my favorites.
Coral reefs start close to shore all along Bonaire’s sheltered western coastline, but the most colorful sites are a short boat ride away. A five- minute ride across calm water brings you to the low-lying, uninhabited shores of Kline Bonaire. Your boat captain can choose from one of more than two dozen sites based on conditions, and my consistent favorite begins right off No Name Beach, where hard and soft coral growth starts in as little as five feet of water.
Sea turtles are often seen along the shoreline of deserted Kline Bonaire island, which is just a short boat ride from dive resorts on the west coast of Bonaire. Photo: Alejandro Gutierrez/ Tourism Corporation Bonaire
I’ve spent hours watching the fish life on Anse Chastanet Reef, but every so often, I find myself pausing to admire the view above the water. A foreground of golden sand and jungle green frame the towering profiles of St. Lucia’s most famous landmarks, the Pitons. Just a short swim from shore, a coral-covered plateau presents an undulating profile that rises within five feet of the surface, and then falls from 20 feet to depths of more than 100. In addition to large schools of tropical fish, this site is known for its small invertebrates, giving critter spotters hours of enjoyable hunting.
On the island of St. Lucia, the twin spires of the Pitons provide a dramatic backdrop for snorkelers exploring the near shore reefs at Anse Chastanet. Photo: Bernd Rac/Anse Chastanet Resort
Between the bareboat fleets, tour operators and private boaters, you’ll seldom find the waters around the rock pinnacles known as the Indians deserted. But that’s OK, there’s plenty of coral-covered reef to go around. I especially enjoy the steep cliff faces to the west, where seas are calmest and the underwater landscape is the most dramatic. The usual roster of reef characters there in abundance, including blue tangs, queen angels and a colorful assortment of parrotfish. Peek into the crevices and you might discover an eel or lobster lurking in the shadows.
The distinctive rock pinnacles known as the Indians are the most popular snorkeling destination in the British Virgin Islands, offering clear water and colorful corals. Photo: BVI Tourist Board
Cancun isn’t known for great snorkeling. But drive a few miles south to the sleepy fishing village of Puerto Morelos, and you’re just a short boat ride from the Yucatan’s premier national marine park. The coral gardens begin a half-mile from the beach, and there are always a number of panga-style launches on the beach, with gregarious crews ready to provide guided snorkel tours of the park. Depths are typically less than 10 feet, making it easy to spot the menagerie of reef creatures that flit through the sea fans and coral fingers.
A short distance south of Cancun, the national marine park at Puerto Morales features protected reefs rich in fish life and corals. Photo: Adam Saltman/Flickr
There are literally hundreds of miles of pristine shallow reef to explore around the islands of the Turks & Caicos. When I’m staying on Providenciales, and don’t feel like a boat ride, there’s no need to go far. Right off the beach is a three-mile expanse of coral heads and sea grass shallows known as Smith’s Reef. I sometimes enjoy searching the grass beds for hidden critters, but it’s the coral heads that hold the greatest variety of life. To locate a coral patch from shore, look for the patches of water that have a brownish tint, which indicates hard bottom.
On the island of Providenciales in the Turks & Caicos island group, the coral heads of Smith’s Reef start just offshore of the Turtle Cove Marina and stretch for three miles to the east. Photo: Turks & Caicos Tourist Board
In the heart of the Bahamas, the Exuma Land and Sea Park encompasses dozens of islands and miles of protected reef. The best way to explore the fish-laden waters of this aquatic preserve is by signing up for a half or full day boat tour. The guides will not only know which sites are best based on tides and weather, they will also put you on to a number of additional adventures such as a swim through the hidden grotto from the James Bond film Thunderball, or a visit to the famous swimming pigs of the Exumas.
The Exumas Land and Sea Park encompasses a number of small islands and thousands of acres of shoals and reefs ideal for swimming and snorkeling. Photo: Darryl Massaro/Flickr
Belize’s original marine reserve packs a lot of underwater diversity into a relatively small area. Hol Chan is the Mayan phrase for “little channel” and when snorkelers arrive at this cut in the reef after an easy boat ride from Ambergris Caye, they are treated to spur and grove coral formations, sea brass beds and mangrove nurseries. Most tours also take in the site’s famous Shark Ray Alley, where southern stingrays and nurse sharks gather to nosh on fishy morsels offered by dive guides. The interaction is safe, and will put you right in the middle of the action.
Nurse sharks gather in the shallow waters of Belize’s Hol Chan Marine Reserve in anticipation of a free meal of fish scraps. These placid reef dwellers pose no danger to humans. Photo: iStock
It’s been more than 50 years since Buck Island Reef was declared a National Monument, and it’s still one of the Caribbean’s most popular snorkel sites. Located off the northeastern shore of St. Croix, Buck Island offers deserted white sand beaches and an encircling reef dominated by branching Elkhorn formations and groves of undulating sea fans. An underwater snorkel trail leads through the coral maze, which is home to hawksbill sea turtles. Shallow depths put swimmers face to face with the many tropical fish that seek shelter in the branching arms of the corals.
St. Croix’s Buck Island National Monument includes a white sand beach and one of the most extensive groves of elkhorn corals in the Caribbean. Photo: Steve Simonsen/ US Virgin Island Department of Tourism
A visit to Aruba’s De Palm Island is part snorkel trip, part beach party. Located just off the main island’s southern coast, this all-inclusive day resort offers half and full day experiences that include beachside buffets, libations, entertainment and guided tours to the nearby reef, which is one of the best on the island. Snorkel equipment and instruction are included in the price of admission, and while water conditions are beginner friendly, the underwater landscape offers plenty to keep even veteran snorkelers enthralled.
De Palm Island is located just off the coast of Aruba. Guests who come for an all-inclusive beach day can enjoy guided or individual snorkeling on reefs just off the beach. Photo: De Palm Tours
I love to swim with sea turtles, and one of the best places to do this in the southern Caribbean is in the Tobago Cays. This collection of five uninhabited islands lies just east of Mayreau in the southern Grenadines. It became a wildlife reserve in 2006, and is home to a colorful array of marine life— including a population of resident turtles. The formation known as Horseshoe Reef encircles four of the five islands to create calm conditions for snorkeling. Portions of the park can get a bit crowded when several tour boats arrive at once, but even on busy days I’ve always been able to slip off and find a quieter corner of the reef to enjoy.
In the southern Grenadines, a group of five small, uninhabited islands known as the Tobago Cays provide excellent snorkeling within the protected shallows of Horseshoe Reef. Photo: Debbie Snow
The most visited of the US Virgin Islands, St. Thomas continues to entice travelers to its green hills, resorts, beachside bars and stunning strands of sand.
Aptly named Skyline Drive ascends the mountainous spine of St. Thomas to provide magnificent views of island and ocean. There are numerous overlooks for photo ops, including Mountain Top, where the observation deck delivers sweeping vistas that take in Magens Bay, the island’s north shore and the green peaks of the British Virgins. A ride on the gondola to Paradise Point yields equally inspiring views of Charlotte Amalie, and come sunset, the place to be is the Mafolie Hotel and Restaurant to watch the evening twinkling lights of St. Thomas unfold below you.
At night, the hillsides of St. Thomas come alive in a light show that is visible from miles at sea. Overlooks along Skyline Drive are favorite locations to admire the view. Photo: Aneese/iStock
From St. Thomas’ east end, big game fishermen set a course on an offshore shoal known as the North Drop to do battle with trophy- sized blue marlin. Offshore anglers can also reel in table fare such as tuna, wahoo and mahimahi, while closer to shore, the reefs hold snapper, snook and jack. Something is always biting.
St. Thomas is a water sports paradise, with plenty of action beyond the beach. From paddleboard tours to yacht charters and snorkel trips, there’s something for all ages and tastes. Steady trade winds provide ideal conditions for sailors, windsurfers and kite boarders, while the clear waters draw scuba divers to reefs and shipwrecks teeming with life. Those who prefer to stay dry can also enjoy the sea with a visit to the underwater viewing chambers at Coral World, or a ride on the Nautilus submarine.
While St. Thomas has plenty to keep visitors occupied, it’s equally easy to take a day trip to sister island St. John. Ferries leave Red Hook on the hour for the 20-minute ride over to Cruz Bay, where quiet beaches and the laid back village of Cruz Bay await.
A combination of steady trade winds and sheltered waters make St. Thomas an ideal cruising ground. A number of companies offer sailboats for charter. Photo: Christian Wheatley/iStock
A short ferry ride whisks you from the bustle of the Charlotte Amalie waterfront to the quiet of Water Island, where there are no taxis or high-rises. A short walk though the woods brings you to Honeymoon Beach, were you can spend the day snorkeling, sunning or chilling at a laid-back beach bar. Nearby Hassel island will delight nature lovers and history buffs, who can book a kayak tour or hiking excursion to this island preserve, which is now managed by the National Park Service. The island holds the remains of a former British garrison, a coaling station and one of the first steam powered marine railways in the western hemisphere.
Charlotte Amalie’s legacy of Danish architecture includes red roofs and whitewashed walls. Many homes are fitted with rainwater catchments to harvest tropical showers. Photo: Ramunas Bruzas/iStock
The annual island-wide celebration brings plenty of steel drums, drinking and partying in the streets, but St. Thomas’ version of this Caribbean celebration also offers up a range of activities that kids, families and the neophytes can enjoy. It’s a combination of an amusement park, calypso show, food fair, parade and fireworks.
Colonial Danish architecture is prevalent on the island, as the Danes ruled the island from 1666 to 1917 with a few short interruptions, and developed St. Thomas as a center of maritime trade. Charlotte Amalie is filled with historic structures that once warehoused sugar, cotton, indigo and tobacco. Government and private buildings from that era also remain intact. Highlights in town worthy of exploration are Government House, Fort Christian and Haagensen House.
Located in Charlotte Amalie, the historic building that now houses the Legislature of US Virgin Islands was constructed in 1828 as a barracks for Danish policemen. Photo: Steve Heap/iStock
The island’s culinary scene blends the traditional with the eclectic and innovative, offering everything from beach bar favorites and Caribbean staples to international fare and fusion cuisines. For a bit of history and innovative cuisine head to the Old Stone Farmhouse up at Mahogany Run. Here you’ll dine in a 19th century stone walled structure once part of a sprawling sugar plantation. For local fare, stop off downtown at Gladys’ Café for lunch, and load up on bottles of her famous hot sauce.
It’s hard to resist a day of retail adventures in downtown Charlotte Amalie, where one can wander in and out of the eclectic shops and boutiques that line Main Street, aka Dronningens Gade. Offerings range from handmade sandals and one of a kind pieces by local artists to big-name brands like Cartier and Rolex. Duty- free and tax-free pricing sweetens the deals on watches, diamonds and emeralds.
Charlotte Amalie’s downtown shopping district centers around Dronningens Gade and a network of pedestrian alleys that connect this main street to the waterfront. Photo: Roby Vannucci/iStock
From umbrella-embellished beaches to small coves hidden down dirt roads, there are 44 beaches to choose from on St. Thomas. Some are reached through a resort, while others are easily found by car, where you can park close to the sand. The most photographed—and with good reason—is Magens Bay Beach; a small admission is requested as you enter to maintain the beach in its pristine manner.
Located on the eastern end of St. Thomas, miles from the cruise ship chaos of Charlotte Amalie, the settlement of Red Hook is a quieter take on this Caribbean port. The protected harbor is a favorite stopover for sailors, and also the jumping off point for ferryboat service to the island of St. John and the British Virgins.
Clustered around the ferry landing are a smattering of island-style bars and eateries. During the day, the comings and goings of ferry passengers set the tone, but come evening, the waterfront scene heats up as cruisers come ashore from anchored boats to join in nightly celebrations that often move from one waterfront tavern to the next.
Clear tropical waters beg for exploration with mask and snorkel. Sure, you could sign up for a boat trip, but at these favorite St. Thomas beach resorts, immersing yourself in a world of Technicolor reefs and tropical fish is as easy as wading in.
This condominium resort is located directly on one of the island’s best white-sand beaches, with a coral reef that’s just a short swim from shore. Here, clear waters showcase an underwater landscape filled with tropical fish, stingrays and conch. More adventurous snorkelers can continue out to explore the rocky shoals surrounding Pretty Klip point, or search the bay’s sea grass beds for turtles. The on-site water sports center can provide snorkel equipment and advice, or arrange boat excursions to more distant snorkeling sites.
Guests at the Sapphire Beach Resort enjoy easy access to one of the best snorkeling beaches in the Virgin Islands. Photo: Christian Wheatley/iStock
The resort’s home-style accommodations include private balconies, and full kitchens with large living areas. All units have air conditioning, safes, cable TV, ceiling fans and phones. Sapphire Beach Resort is just outside the town of Red Hook, which is the jumping off point for ferry service to St. John and the British Virgin Islands.
The west-facing beach at Secret Harbour provides a cove sheltered from trade wind swells. As a result, the calm waters just off the palm-shrouded beach are ideal for youngsters and those new to snorkeling, as well as activities such as standup paddle boarding. For more fish life, guests can fin out to the rocks beyond the right-hand end of the beach, where parrotfish glide through a submerged boulder field.
The protected cove at Secret Harbour Beach Resort is an ideal place for children and novices to hone their snorkeling skills. Secret Harbour
The property blends the comforts of spacious condominium accommodations with a full range of resort amenities that includes a water sports center, spa, tennis and fitness centers, full-time concierge service and two on-site restaurants. Each studio, one or two-bedroom unit incorporates ocean-view patios or balconies, indoor/outdoor dining and a fully equipped kitchen.
One of St. Thomas’ favorite resorts is now part of the Dreams family of all- inclusive properties. Here, a collection of luxury rooms and suites are perched on a bluff overlooking the emerald and sapphire shallows of Water Bay. Guests can see snorkeling reefs from balconies, and it’s a short walk down to the private beach, where snorkelers are greeted by gregarious tropical fish such as yellowtail snapper. A short swim towards the right side of the bay leads to rock piles that host a collection of corals and sea fans where parrotfish, blue tangs and trumpet fish lurk.
Guests at Dreams Sugar Beach enjoy fantastic water views. A private beach provides snorkelers with easy access to a lively coral reef. Photo: Dreams
Dreams is a family-friendly property offering a wide range of activities for all age ranges, seven on-site restaurants, nightly entertainment and numerous additional all-inclusive amenities.
With beachside hammocks strung between palm trees, all just steps from your room, you might be tempted to remain ashore and just chill. But the waters of Bolongo Bay are certainly worth viewing through mask and snorkel, and one need not swim far from shore to start seeing fish. The entire bay is sheltered from north and east swells, and the right of the Bay is especially calm, and features a collection of boulders that attracts a variety of marine life.
Bolongo Bay overlooks a calm bay that is ideal for a wide range of water sports. The best snorkeling is just a short swim from the beach. Photo: Bolongo Bay
This family-owned resort was the island’s original all-inclusive property, and it has remained a favorite for four decades. In addition to snorkeling, guests have access to standup paddleboards, kayaks and other water sports equipment, along with daily snorkel and dive excursions to area sites. The resort includes three pools, three on-site restaurants, a lively beach bar and some of the island’s best live entertainment.
On an island where hiking through cool, shaded forests abound, St. John’s Salt Pond offers something very different. Located on the island’s sunbaked south coast, where rock bluffs and scrub dominate the landscape, this peninsula can only be reached by hiking trails, making it an ideal getaway for anyone seeking a bit of solitude.
The trail begins at the Salt Pond Bay parking lot, a 15-minute drive from Coral Bay. A short five-minute walk down a relatively steep dirt trail and you’re at beautiful Salt Pond Bay, where the often-calm waters offer excellent snorkeling. You could set up camp and spend the day sunning and swimming, but if you want to stretch your legs first and take in some scenic vistas, keep walking to the south end of the beach. As the sand starts to give way to a trail of dirt and rocks, you’ll find a National Park sign that points the way to a pair of hiking trails.
Your hike begins here, at the protected beach of Salt Pond on St. John’s sunny southern coastline. Photo: Andrea Milam
The first portion of this trail winds gently up and down through a cactus forest, eventually ascending to about 100 feet above sea level, with big, open-ocean views. Birds provide the soundtrack, while Turks head cacti offer up their brilliant pink fruit to those who know where to find them. About 20 minutes into the hike, you’ll descend back to sea level to cross a unique blue cobblestone beach. Once you’re back on the trail, you’ll quickly ascend toward a cut in the hillside, which is the trail’s peak.
The Ram Head Trail begins in a thorn bush and cacti forest, and then climbs to a ridge that provides sweeping water views. Photo: Andrea Milam
As you rise in elevation to approximately 200 feet above sea level, the hillside below you is littered with hundreds of Turks head cacti, standing at attention like soldiers guarding one of Mother Nature’s prized creations. Approaching the crevasse in the hill, you’ll get an initial glimpse of the wild open ocean below, and with it, the sense you’re about to witness something amazing. And then, it hits you — the wind, that is. Just when the sweat is really starting to pour, and the sun’s rays are really starting to punish, Ram Head provides deliverance in the form of all-natural air conditioning, as cool sea breezes whip up through the crevasse.
To reach the top of the Ram Head peninsula you’ll cross narrow paths and a stone beach. Photo: Andrea Milam
The trail to Drunk Bay provides an easier alternative to the Ram Head hike. The beginning of this route is also located at Salt Pond’s south end. On this third of a mile-long trail, you’ll skirt the large salt pond that gives the bay its name and arrive after a short five-minute walk at wild, windswept Drunk Bay. This rocky beach is littered with coral fragments and all kinds of interesting flotsam and jetsam, which beach-goers use to create sculptures of people, gravity-defying formations, and messages. Tap your creativity to leave your own mark on the beach before heading back for Salt Pond. Swim, relax, and enjoy the water as you summon up the energy to walk back to the parking lot with a well- earned sense of accomplishment.
The beach at Drunk Bay is lined with rugged coral and stone waiting to be made into a beach sculpture. Photo: Andrea Milam
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