Tag Archives: Bahamas Out Islands

Exumas Bahamas Sea Park
Bahamas, Bahamas-Out Islands, Caribbean, Plan, Trip Ideas

Island Escapes: Exumas by Land and Sea

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A short sail from the glitzy resorts of Nassau, a very different side of the Bahamas awaits. Stretching for more than 100 miles southward, the string of small islands known as the Exumas divide the emerald-green shallows of the Bahama Banks from the sapphire-blue depths of the Tongue of the Ocean. This is a yachtsman’s playground, filled with scenic anchorages, deserted white-sand beaches and coral reefs teeming with fish life. But you don’t have to play captain to enjoy a slice of Out Island life, as destinations along the archipelago can be reached by airplane, ferryboat or one of the iconic Bahamian mail boats. Day-trippers can also explore these islands by signing up for one of the speedboat tours or seaplane adventures that depart from New Providence Island each day.

Exumas Bahamas

An aerial view of the Exuma chain of islands. While shallow sand banks stretch to the west of these islands, the waters to the east drop abruptly to depths of a mile or more. Photo: iStock

A favorite destination is the Exuma Cays Land & Sea Park. This nature preserve encompasses more than 18 small islands and 175 square miles of seabed, including some of the Bahamas’ best coral reefs. Most visitors arrive at the park headquarters on the island of Warderwick Wells. A stop at the visitor’s center provides background on this unique park, which became the world’s first above-and-below-water preserve when established in 1958. A seven-mile network of nature trails crisscross the island, leading to panoramic views from Boo Boo Hill, blowholes, the remains of a Loyalist plantation and a driftwood-laden shore that is a beachcombers delight. But the park’s greatest rewards are reserved for those who don mask and snorkel and immerse themselves in the marine environment. A great starting point for a snorkel tour is the beach at Pirate’s Lair. And yes, this island was once a favorite hideout for the Brethren of the Coast.

Exumas

A typical underwater scene at the Exuma Cays Land & Sea Park, with an angelfish hovering over a stand of soft corals and sponges that provide shelter for a school of small snapper. Photo: iStock

Today, thanks to the encompassing protection of the Bahamas National Trust, this idyllic collection of island gems is safe not only from marauding privateers, but also from the influences of development, and the ravages on commercial fishing. The entire park is subject to a no-take policy that includes all forms of terrestrial and marine flora and fauna. Fortunately, you are free to carry your memories home with you, and these are reward enough.

Bahamas Aerial
Bahamas, Bahamas-Out Islands, Plan, Trip Ideas

Caribbean Snap Shots: Bahama Banks

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The Bahamas are often described as a nation of islands. There are in fact more than 700 charted islands and more than 2,000 smaller bits of land – often known as cayes – scattered across the 5,000-plus square miles of ocean within the country’s sovereign boundaries. Much of the remaining area is given over to a pair of gigantic shoals known as the Big and Little Bahama Banks. These expanses of shallow sea floor are actually the tops of huge limestone plateaus—underwater mesas that rise from miles deep to within a few feet of the surface. Colorful coral reefs decorate some areas of the banks, while other portions are covered in shifting sand banks. As currents ebb and flow across the banks, they create channels that, when seen from the air, form intricate curves and whorls of white sand and blue water. Most, like these tidal channels south of the island of Andros, can be reached only by a long boat ride. But when flying into or over the Bahamas, they provide an interesting diversion or photo op for any passengers seated by a window.

Abacos Elbow Cay from Lighthouse, Bahamas
Bahamas, Bahamas-Out Islands, Caribbean, Plan, Trip Ideas

Island Hopping in the Abacos

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The Bahamas is a nation of islands. The best -and sometimes only- way to visit many of these islands is by boat. Take the Abacos, for example. You can fly to the big island, Great Abaco, but you’ll have to take to the water to discover the string of smaller islands, known locally as cays, that lie just to the east. Stretching some 60 miles north to south like a conga line, and flanked by the blue Atlantic to the east and emerald shallows to the west, these water-bound gems are home to dazzling beaches and tucked-away waterfront taverns just waiting discovery.

My plan was to explore those islands in the company of friends, devoting an idyllic summer day to island hopping, wandering the beaches and sampling some savory local eats and libations. Planning this voyage was easy: we’d made arrangements with Abaco Dorado rentals to charter a 26-foot powerboat for the day, complete with captain. We were met at the dock of the Abaco Beach Resort and Boat Harbour Marina just after nine in the morning, and the adventure began.

Setting Sail

Minutes after stepping aboard, we were skimming the glassy surface of the shallow sound known as the Sea of Abaco, our bow pointed toward the northeast and Man of War Cay. This small spit of land lies midway up the archipelago that flanks Great Abaco, and like each cay in the string, it has a unique history and a flavor all its own. Many residents of Man of War can trace their lineage back to Loyalists ancestors, who, after the American Revolutionary War, set sail from the former colonies and settled in the British-held territories of the Bahamas. One of their descendants is Joe Albury, who has spent most of his life creating boats out of wood—some small enough to display on coffee tables, others big enough to set sail. These works of art are on sale in his gallery, where he is more than happy to show visitors around his workspace, giving them glimpses of works-in-progress. The Albury name is quite prevalent on Man of War. Just down the road, past the Albury Grocery Store, is the Albury Sail Shop, where local residents create handmade canvas duffle bags, hats and purses that are fashionable as well as durable. They don’t actually make sails these days, but traditional sailcloth is still used to construct the merchandise—thus the name of this family-run business, which has been humming away for three generations. After stocking up on some of the goods, we re-boarded and headed off for our next conquest.

Elbow Room

Skimming over glass-clear shallows, we could clearly make out the shapes of starfish scattered across the bottom some ten feet below. Within a matter of minutes, the distinctive red-and- white striped profile of a lighthouse came into view, then the low green hills of Elbow Cay rose over the horizon. We idled through the anchorage at Hope Town—one of the most picturesque and oft-photographed harbors in the Bahamas— and stopped at the public dock to stretch our legs. Hunger and thirst set in, and though tempted by several of the local eateries facing the harbor, we opted to pile back aboard for a short ride south to White Sound and the Abacos Inn, which perches on a narrow spit of land overlooking the Atlantic. There, Judy, the friendly proprietor, quickly and graciously whipped up a pitcher of Bloody Marys for our group—very tasty with just the right blend of spices, tomato juice and Vitamin-V. After snacking on some crispy fried conch and plump crab cakes, we agreed that it was time for a swim, or a nap… or both.

Abacos Elbow Cay Lighthouse

Hope Town’s best-known landmark is the distinctive red-and- white striped profile of Elbow Reef Lighthouse, which visitors can climb for a panoramic view of the island. Photo: Debbie Snow

 Life’s a Beach

At the south end of Elbow Cay, a shimmering shoal of bone- white sand stretches westward from a palm-lined shore. Zoom in and you might think you were looking at a shoreline in French Polynesia. Hence the site’s moniker: Tahiti Beach. Local lore has it that savvy cinematographers have used this backdrop as a substitute for the South Pacific. What is certain is that the adjacent sand spit remains a favorite mid-day stopover when cruising the Abacos. The big boats have to anchor out and take the dingy to the beach; we were able to nose our bow right up onto the sand and hop out into ankle deep water. There is no one vibe to Tahiti Beach. Some days you’ll have it all to yourself, our captain tells us. Other days, it’s a total party scene with dozens of sleek speedboats beached in the shallows, their onboard sound systems pumping up crowds of revelers fueled by concoctions of rum and fruit juices. Things were decidedly more mellow when we arrived, with just a handful of swimmers wading in the emerald waters, and a couple of beach umbrellas manned by families. We walked the length of the beach, took a refreshing dip, and lingered lazily in the sunshine. Our clocks were firmly reset to island time, but then an alarm went off: we were getting hungry once again. Fortunately, the cure was close at hand.

Abacos, Tahiti Beach

Just off the palm-lined shores of Tahiti Beach sits a long, sandy shoal that is awash at high tide, then becomes a favorite spot for fun and games when low tides exposes the sand. Photo: Debbie Snow

Landing on Lubbers

Just across the channel from Tahiti Beach lies Lubbers Cay, and one of the Abacos’ favorite stopovers: Cracker P’s Bar & Grill. The gabled roof peeks above the trees of the cay’s highest peak, which with an elevation of 40-feet is considered high for this area of the Bahamas. Patrick and Linda Stewart run this inviting establishment, which is reminiscent of local pubs around the world—with the added enticement of wraparound water views. Patrons arrive in everything from skiffs to super yachts to enjoy the beach, wander the four-acre grounds or pop in for a game of darts, a cool libation and some of the freshest fish you’ll ever taste. If you’ve caught your own, Patrick will put it on the grill. If not, there’s always something fresh from the ocean waiting to be transformed into a memorable meal. Not to be missed is the kitchens legendary smoked fish dip, accompanied by the signature Cracker P’s hot sauce, which features the tang of sapodilla, picked from trees that grow wild on the cay. One may also savor a sip or two from an extensive collection or rums, and perhaps a Cuban cigar, which may be legally purchased at the bar.

An Ideal Ending

As the sun sank low, our captain set a course back to Marsh Harbor, returning us to the Abaco Beach Resort with ample time to shower and relax before regrouping for dinner. Since we had really only ‘snacked’ our way through the cays, it was time for a proper meal in the resort’s signature restaurant, Angler’s. We spent the evening enjoying fresh seafood offerings, sipping wine and listening to the soothing music provided nightly by popular local vocalist Stephen Colebrook. Reminiscing on our voyage, we agreed that one day, while magically memorable, wasn’t nearly enough time to discover all the Abacos had to offer. That was a good thing, we concluded, as this left plenty of reasons to come back.

 

 

 

Pink Sand Beach in Bermuda
Bahamas-Out Islands, Barbados, Bermuda, Caribbean, Plan, Trip Ideas

Best Pink Beaches in the Caribbean

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Some of the Caribbean’s big draws are the beaches. They come in all colors from sugary white sand to glistening pewter and even slate black. But perhaps closest to our heart are the pink strands, often romantic and always breathtaking, in particular when the soft morning light hits the rosy granules. So, make sure you drag yourself out of bed early if you are lucky enough to be staying near one of these pink delights.

Bermuda: South Shore Beaches

While pink sand beaches and pink hotels seem to be synonymous with Bermuda, not all sandy strands on Bermuda are cast in pastel, as there is an occasional creamy white sand beach. But for the most part, the famed south shore is marked by cotton candy swirls of pink sands made from red foram, a tiny marine organism. The animal lives on the undersides of rocks and has a red skeleton. When it dies it mixes with bits of coral and broken shells, giving the sands their signature pink hues.

The Bermuda South Shore Park is an impressive stretch of coast lined with beaches. There you’ll find grassy areas for picnics along the roadside, rolling dunes and plenty of dramatic rock formations. Each beach seems to have a private cove that’s sheltered from ocean swells, and perfect for splashing around. Between Warwick Parish and Southampton Parish you’ll find a selection of pink beaches like Jobson’s Cove, Warwick Long Bay and the most well-known and popular stretch: Horseshoe Bay. Head to Church Bay at the far end and grab a mask and snorkel or West Whale Bay where you might see humpback whales migrating north to their summer feeding grounds during the spring.

Where to stay: Perched on a hilltop with the sea off in the distance is the Fairmont Southampton, a soup-to-nuts resort with golf, spa and a beachside watersports center. Their jitney takes guests on a one-minute ride to and from the beach.

Bermuda Horseshoe Beach

Horseshoe Beach is the most popular beach on the south shore of Bermuda. Summer months may bring crowds but there is always a stretch of beach to call your own. Photo: iStock

Barbados: Crane Beach

The combination of turquoise blue waters, pink sands and feathering palms, all set against a backdrop of dramatic cliffs, certainly makes Crane’s Beach a striking postcard image. You might think that this splendid stretch of beach was named for a long-necked bird. But in reality, the crane in question was a tall, gantry-like metal hoist that once sat cliffside, and was used to unload ships. The site is no longer a cargo port, and is instead touted as one of the 10 best beaches in the world by the Lifestyles of the Rich and Famous. It has also served as a backdrop for hundreds of wedding photos.

Seas are occasional calm enough for casual swims, but more often the waves that strike the island’s exposed eastern coast create currents and a strong shore break. That’s when surfers head out and boogie boarders are seen lining up. For the mere spectator there are soft sands, a coral reef offshore and swimming in more protected areas. Guests of the namesake cliffside resort can descend 100 steps or hop a ride in the glass-front elevator to the sands, where staff is on hand to set up umbrellas and chairs. Sundays are popular with both locals and visitors, as the resort’s sea view restaurant, L’Azure, hosts a Bajan buffet with live gospel music.

Where to stay: The only resort on the island’s southeast coast just happens to be the oldest resort on the Barbados. The Crane has a botanical garden setting and sits anchored on a cliff overlooking the sea. Book a room with a plunge pool on your balcony for the ultimate experience.

Barbados Crane Beach

Swimmers and boogie boarders take advantage of small waves at picturesque Crane Beach on Barbados. Photo: iStock

Bahamas Out Island-Harbour Island

Harbour Island measures just three miles in length, and most of its eastern shore is blessed with a pink sand beach so soft it pours like flour, and shimmers in hues from subtle blush to salmon. The sands are protected by a coral reef that runs the length of the beach and is just a five-minute swim from shore. Here, in canyons of Elkhorn coral you may see a Ridley sea turtle, bottlenose dolphin or even a small shark. Beachside strolls are a daily delight, and in late afternoon you may encounter horses and riders wading into the shore break.

Harbour Island is a favorite with celebrities, and many pass through with little notice, grateful for a respite or hideout from the paparazzi. The island’s slow-paced, low-key lifestyle is treasured by visitors who instantly become part of the community. Walking is a favorite form of conveyance, and golf carts are more common then cars. The local equivalent of restaurant row is Bay Street, where fishing boats bob in the harbor and roadside vendors with small roadside food stands offer up conch fritters, conch salad and fried fish, all pulled fresh from the sea just hours before.

Where to stay: Pink Sands is the definitive experience on Harbour Island, a boutique property with lush gardens and a bird sanctuary. Rooms are set back off the beach but close enough to follow a private path down to the pink sands.

Bahamas Harbour Island Pink Sand Beach

Gentle waves wash the pristine pink shores of Harbour Island, one of many treasured gems in the 700 islands of the Bahamas. Photo: Shane Gross/iStock

 

 

Bahamas, Exumas
Bahamas, Bahamas-Grand Bahama Island, Bahamas-New Providence, Bahamas-Out Islands, Caribbean, Play, Trip Ideas

Bahamas Wade-In Snorkel Beaches

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With hundreds of miles of reefs, rocks and beaches scattered across some 700 islands, there’s no shortage of great snorkel sites in the Bahamas. Some are remote and difficult to reach; others will require a boat ride. But there are also a number of prime fish watching venues that lie just off popular beaches, and within close proximity to a waterfront resort. Here are five of our favorite island destinations where you can go right from the sand to the reef.

Love Beach, New Providence Island

The best place for nearshore snorkeling on the island of New Providence isn’t from the resorts at Cable Beach or Paradise Island, but instead can be found a few miles to the west at Love Beach. Getting there is easy by either public bus or rental car, but you’ll have to know the local ropes to gain access to the water, as this beach is flanked primarily by private homes. Guests of Compass Point Beach Resort have walk-on proximity, while day- trippers can pay a modest fee at nearby Nirvana Beach Club to gain entry, and enjoy changing facilities. From either starting point, the best area for snorkeling is toward the western end of the beach, where coral-covered rock ledges run closer to shore. Blue tangs and yellow-and-blue striped grunts hover in the shadows of overhangs, while the more gregarious yellowtail snapper will often approach. The sandy patches between the rocks hold conch and starfish, and keen-eyed snorkelers may spot the antenna of a spiny lobster hiding deep in a crevice.

Deadman’s Reef, Grand Bahama Island

Come for the day, or book a stay. Either option places you next to Grand Bahama’s favorite snorkeling destination: Deadman’s Reef. The reef lies just offshore of Paradise Cove Beach Resort, which is a 15-minute drive west of Freeport. The resort sits on an otherwise deserted stretch of beach, and in addition to snorkeling, offers a range of day-at-the-beach diversions for both the active and the just relaxing. Right from the sand, snorkelers wade into clear water that is usually calm, and swim less than 100 feet to the start of the reef. Usual sightings include angelfish, barracuda, colorful parrotfish and rays, plus the chance of a sea turtle. To add an extra element to the swim, you can rent a motorized sea scooter that will propel you along the reefs like James Bond.

Small Hope Bay, Andros

Andros is the largest and wildest island in the Bahamas, and home to some of the island nation’s most diverse diving and snorkeling adventures. Some take place from boats, but others await right off the beach. A long-time favorite starting point, and one of the island’s few full-service resorts, is Small Hope Bay Lodge. Snorkel adventures begin right at the resort beach, where guests can wade in to discover schools of tropical fish holding in the shadows of the resort dock. A bit farther out, a series of patch reefs provide hours of exploration. For a truly unique snorkeling adventure, sign up for a half-day inland trip to a pair of freshwater blue holes that includes a walking tour of forests where medicinal plants and more than 50 varieties of orchids thrive.

Pink Sands Beach, Harbour Island

Harbour Island’s famous pink beach is among the prettiest in the Bahamas, and just offshore lie some equally enchanting coral grottoes. Because this beach faces the open Atlantic, conditions aren’t always favorable for snorkeling. But when the surf is down, those willing to fin their way 50 to 100 yards from shore will encounter a maze of coral heads cut by deep channels, tunnels and hidden grottoes. Fish flit in and out of hidden recesses, while sunlight dapples groves of Elkhorn coral. It’s a magical scene, whether you remain on the surface, or dip down into one of the recesses for a closer look. For immediate access to the beach, you can stay at the top- rated Pink Sands Resort, which perches on a bluff overlooking the beach, and is just a short stroll away from the Dunmore Town waterfront.

Harbour Island Snorkeling, Bahamas Out Islands

The east coast of Harbour Island is flanked by an expansive fringing reef offering numerous swim-throughs and coral grottoes. These sites are best visited when seas are calm. Photo: Shane Gross/iStock

Stocking Island, Great Exuma

There are several spots along the shores of Great Exuma Island where reefs come close to shore. Some of the best are on the east side of Stocking Island, which is either a short ferry ride away from George Town, or a few steps from the front porch of cottages such as the Kevalli House. The eastern shores of the island are punctuated by caverns and caves that delve into the underlying limestone strata of the shoreline. Just offshore, coral gardens rise from depths of ten feet or less, providing shelter for a variety of colorful tropical fish. Another good right-from-the-beach option a few miles to the north is Three Sisters Beach, so named for the trio of rock outcroppings that lie within swimming distance of the shore. The Exuma Palms Hotel is the place to stay at Three Sisters. As compared to some of the newer, high-end resorts that have sprung up mid island, it’s smaller and reminiscent of a simpler time, offering clean, comfortable accommodations at a reasonable rate, with a first class restaurant, a magnificent beachfront location and a range of available water sports.

 

Bahamas, Exumas Staniel Cay pigs
Bahamas, Bahamas-Out Islands, Caribbean, Play, Trip Ideas

Swimming With Pigs in the Bahamas

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There’s no better way to explore the Bahamian Out Islands known as the Exuma Cays than by boat. This string of small islands, reefs and sandbars stretches some 120 miles through the central Bahamas. Midway down the archipelago is the Staniel Cay Yacht Club, a resort and marina that can serve as a launching point for a unique wildlife encounter. Get your camera ready because the selfies are too funny.

During my visit to Staniel Cay, the staff set us up with a Boston Whaler launch and a waterproof map with directions to where the wild things are: in this case, pigs, nurse sharks and iguanas. You don’t need to whistle, call or brandish tempting foodstuffs to get the wild pigs of Big Major Cay to approach. All you need to do is anchor a boat within swimming range of the beach. The pigs are fast. The six of us on this day trip haven’t even fully removed our lens caps or entered the water before the animals are a couple of yards away. And they’re huge. You don’t have to bend over to rub a hand across their hides—each stands roughly 3 feet tall.

Local lore has it that these pigs, or rather, their pig parents, have been living on this beach since World War II, when enterprising islanders stashed them here for safekeeping. A bacon reserve, if you will. Only, whoever left them here never claimed them post amnesty. Instead, they’ve run, well, hog wild, subsisting on forage and the kindness of picnic-toting tourists. Which explains why they’re not big on personal space. I near one for a picture and it raises its donut-size snout to inspect my face. It bowls into me, making me step back to keep from getting a soaking. Every time I reach down for a pat, it hefts its snout against my palm, presumably sniffing for crumbs. This one definitely thinks I’m holding out.

We’re surrounded by three pigs—one a downy pink, and the others spotted with patches of chocolate brown and black. Their hair is wiry and sparse, like petting a hairbrush. I’m not sure which is more amusing: how physical the pigs are in trying to get to know us, or how unsuccessful my friends are in trying to take selfies with these animals. They have an in-your-face energy, nosing too far into the frame.

And the beach! This is easily one of the most stunning patches of white sand in the Caribbean—the kind the Exumas are known for—and it’s the playground of pigs. From this spot, we motor north to Compass Cay Marina. Under the dock is a school of dozens of nurse sharks. They make me happy; I’ve toted along snorkel gear. It’s unreal to swim among so many sharks in just 12 feet of water.

Before the day ends, the last stop for animal viewing is Bitter Guana Cay. Here, the northern Bahamian rock iguanas appear in packs. They waddle through the sand, hefting big bellies, so clearly they’re doing well. To snap their pictures, we stay low to the ground and approach slowly to avoid spooking them. Unlike with the pigs, these tiny Godzillas make it much harder to score a selfie. So instead, we settle in and simply watch the wildlife watching us.

Romantic Sunset in the Caribbean
Bahamas, Bahamas-Out Islands, Cancun, Caribbean, Cuba, Dominican Republic, Mexico, Plan, Puerto Rico, St. Lucia, Trip Ideas

The Caribbean’s Most Romantic Moments

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Between the soft, enveloping trade winds and the scent of hibiscus and frangipani they carry, it’s a cold heart indeed that doesn’t feel at least a little romantic in the Caribbean. Almost any moonlit beach or relaxed restaurant can be the launching pad for love, but there are some special times and places that you should experience for yourself. Here are our picks for the Caribbean’s most romantic moments.

Picnic at Fort Rodney, Pigeon Island, St. Lucia

“A Book of Verses underneath the Bough / A Jug of Wine, a Loaf of Bread / and Thou Beside me singing in the Wilderness….” Omar Khayyam never saw Pigeon Island on St. Lucia, but no doubt it was just this sort of place he had in mind when he wrote his famous quatrain. Pack your bread and wine and head up the hiking trail to Fort Rodney. The view from on top is magnificent, sweeping across Rodney Bay and Reduit Beach. The fort and bay are named for Admiral George Rodney, who bedeviled the French, Spanish and Dutch fleets in the 18th century. There are cannons commanding the seaway leading to Gros Islet and plenty of spots to sprawl on a blanket in the shade of the ruined fortifications.

St Lucia Pigeon Island

The site of historic forts and the source of magnificent views, St. Lucia’s Pigeon Island is now joined to the main island, thanks to a man-made earth causeway added in the 1970s. Photo: St Lucia Tourist Board

Equinox, Temple of Kukulkán, Mexico

Both mysterious and mystical, the Maya temples of the Yucatan make you feel the vastness of time and spark appreciation for the pleasures and people of the present. A short drive from Cancun, the largest structure at Chichén Itzá is “El Castillo,” the Temple of Kukulkán, the Feathered Serpent. On the spring and autumn equinoxes, the steps that ascend the pyramid cast a moving shadow that looks like a large, feathered snake slowly crawling down the structure’s stone side. Avoid the hordes of addled New Agers by visiting a few days before or after the equinox. The serpent will still appear and you can enjoy each other’s company without so many spectators. How considerate of the Mayan astronomers to put on a light show just for the two of you.

Chichén Itzá’s Kukulkan, exico

Each year at the times of the spring and fall equinox, evening shadows on Chichén Itzá’s Temple of Kukulkán create patterns that resemble a giant serpent ascending the stairs. Photo: Victor Pelaez/iStock

Sunset at the Rogativa Statue, San Juan, Puerto Rico

The stone fortifications that protected San Juan have been stout enough to survive for more than 400 years. But in 1797, the city was almost forced to surrender to British troops. Sir Ralph Abercrombie and his invasion fleet lay at anchor in the harbor. The bishop of San Juan recruited scores of women and led a torchlight parade, called a rogativa, atop the city’s walls to pray for deliverance. Seeing the huge procession of torches, the Brits concluded the town had been massively reinforced. The hoisted their anchors and sailed away in the night. A statue commemorating the event stands in the Plazuela Rogativa overlooking San Juan Harbor. At sunset, the city walls and the statue are bathed in a glow thick and sweet as orange marmalade while the lights blink on across the opposite shore.

Altos de Chavon, La Romana, Dominican Republic

Perched on the heights overlooking the languid Chavon River in southeastern Dominican Republic, Altos de Chavon is a re-creation of a 16th century Mediterranean village. Cobblestone streets meander past small shops, art galleries and restaurants, while a broad walkway along the cliff’s edge invites extended gazing over a rolling landscape that encompasses the Casa de Campo golf course. Head over to St. Stanislaus Church and sit in the niche that holds the church’s bell to watch the bougainvillea lining the ravine glow as the sun disappears. Afterward, enjoy a long, lingering dinner.

Dominican Republic La Romana Altos De Chavon

An authentic replica of a medieval European village, the buildings and cobblestone streets of Altos de Chavon were fabricated from the rock spoils of a nearby highway project. Photo: Debbie Snow

Sunrise, Pink Sands Beach, Bahamas

The east side of Harbour Island, just off Eleuthera in the central Bahamas, is rimmed by three glorious miles of pink sand. The beach is wide and lapped by gentle waves muffled by the offshore reef. The distinctive color comes from tiny foraminifera, single-celled organisms that create a pink shell. They die by the millions to create a colorful carpet for lovers. Get to the beach before the sun comes up and watch as the first tendrils of light skip across the tops of the waves onto the sand. Work up your various appetites before heading back to your hotel for breakfast and a rest.

The Tropicana, Havana, Cuba

This is the Caribbean’s original den of iniquity. Although not quite as lively as it was pre- Castro when it was run by mobsters Meyer Lansky and Santo Trafficante Jr., the stage show at the Tropicana celebrates the primal Afro-Caribbean rhythms of Cuba and serves them up with plenty of skin and sizzle. A night in the Salon Bajo las Estrellas with scantily clad dancers scampering along catwalks in the towering trees that line the outdoor showroom will have you feeling the heat.

Cuba Tropicana Club

Since 1939, the cabaret shows at the Tropicana Club have remained one of Cuba’s most iconic acts. Today, the lights shine brighter than ever to welcome a new wave of tourism. Photo: Compflight

Swimming in the Bahia Fosforescente, Parguera, Puerto Rico

On the southwest coast of Puerto Rico near La Parguera is a bay with a shallow entrance that traps microscopic bioluminescent critters. Find a local guide with a small boat, take your mask and snorkel and head out on a moonless night. Test the waters by trailing your hand overboard—when you find the plankton, the friction of your fingers will cause them to glow bright green. Slip overboard and watch in amazement as the two of you literally light up the night.

Exumas, Out Islands, Bahamas
Bahamas, Bahamas-Out Islands, Caribbean, Plan, Trip Ideas

Bahamas Out Islands: 10 Reasons to Go

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If you’ve been to Nassau and Freeport, you’ve made a start. Now, there are just 698 islands left to go. Actually, the inhabited landmasses in the Bahamas geared to tourism number in the dozens, not the hundreds. But the principle remains: There’s still much more to see and do in this island nation.

1  Island Styles

The Out Islands range from pleasantly detached to truly remote, and you can plan your vacation experience accordingly. On Great Exuma, a mid-size commuter aircraft and a 10-minute taxi ride get you to a modern beachfront resort. A trip to Rum Cay requires a charter flight in a smaller aircraft and a taxi transfer to reach a secluded rental home on a bluff. Getting to Green Turtle Cay in the Abacos will involve an airplane, taxi, ferryboat and a golf cart ride to a rustic cottage on the beach.

2  Low-Rise Stays

Hotels in the Out Islands tend to be small and independently owned. For those who want even more privacy and personal autonomy, there is a wealth of rental cottages and villas. Some sit in the center of small villages, others perch on secluded points of land where wind and surf are the only neighbors. Rentals also run the price gamut. You can find a two-bedroom cottage in Georgetown for less than $100 a night or spend more than 10 times that amount for an oceanfront villa on Harbour Island.

3  Island Hopping

While some Out Islands sit alone, surrounded by blue water, others band together into closely linked archipelagos. The Exumas, Abacos and Berry Islands are prime examples, and each group provides an opportunity to explore by small boat, popping into the colorful harbor towns for a libation and a nosh at a dockside eatery or heading to an unsettled beach on a sunny lee shore.

4  Same Day Seafood

When you order a bowl of fish stew or a platter of cracked conch at an Out Island eatery, chances are it was swimming just hours earlier. One of the attractions of the Bahamas’ more remote destinations is that cooks rely on local ingredients because imported groceries are expensive and sometimes hard to come by. This result is culinary dishes that are both authentic and fresh, with a heavy emphasis on things that come from the surrounding seas.

5  Shallow Delights

While some Out Islands lie near the deep blue waters of the Atlantic or the Tongue of the Ocean, most also have at least one shore that opens to shallow, protected waters ideal for snorkeling, swimming and flats fishing. Islands such as Andros are doubly blessed by both expansive sand flats and fringing coral reefs that teem with tropical fish life. Discovering this underwater playground is as easy as wading out from shore.

6  Alternative Transportation

When you are staying on an island that’s a couple of miles from end to end, a rental car just doesn’t make sense. At many Out Island destinations, accommodations are within walking distance of beaches and villages. For slightly longer commutes, bicycles and golf carts are often the preferred conveyance.

7  See You at the Regatta

Sailing sloops no longer carry freight and passengers between islands, but their white sails and brightly colored hulls are still evident each year at Great Exuma’s Family Island Regatta. For six decades, boat crews and their followers from around the Bahamas have congregated in Georgetown each April for a week of racing and revelry, and everyone is welcome at the party.

8  Nautical Heritage

As would befit an island nation, the Bahamas has a strong boat building tradition. On Man of War Cay, families such as the Alburys craft both traditional and modern vessels from local woods. While on Bimini, fifth-generation boatbuilder Ansil Saunders handcrafts floating works of art that are prized by collectors.

9  Bluer Mysteries

Underneath the islands and coastal flats of the Bahamas are flooded caverns and underground rivers. When these chasms break the surface, they’re known as blue holes. Inland, they create freshwater oases in the forests and scrub. In the ocean, they flow in and out with the tides, a flow which local legend attributes to the watery breaths of the sea monster Lusca. Water movement attracts schools of fish to the entrances and creates coral gardens in the shallows. The largest known blue hole on Long Island has been plumbed to depths of more than 600 feet.

10  Rake-n-Scrape

To hear the traditional sounds of the southern Bahamas, make your way to Cat Island for the Rake and Scrape Festival. Held over the Bahamian Labor Day weekend (the first weekend in June), it brings together traditions, musicians and performers, who come to dance the quadrille and compete for top honors in the musical style known as rake-n-scrap or rip saw. As the name suggests, a performer coaxes the style’s signature sounds from a carpenter’s saw by raking it with a pic, while goombay drums keep time.

Snorkeling Destinations
Bahamas, Bahamas-Grand Bahama Island, Bahamas-New Providence, Bahamas-Out Islands, Belize, British Virgin Islands, Caribbean, Cayman Islands, Plan, Trip Ideas, U.S. Virgin Islands

See the Sea: 5 Prime Caribbean Snorkeling Destinations

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It’s hard to describe the feeling you get when drifting weightless over a living coral reef, engulfed in a cloud of colorful tropical fish and forests of sun-dappled sea fans. For some, it brings total relaxation. Others find it thrilling. Either way, a good snorkel adventure is all about one thing: location. Simply swimming out from a resort beach may yield nothing but a vast expanse of sand desert. But if you pick the right spot to don mask and fins, you can enjoy calm seas, rich sea life and easy access from boat or beach. To help you find your own underwater nirvana, we’ve rounded up some of the best and most easily-accessed tropical snorkel sites in the upper Caribbean and provided some recommendations on where to stay once you resurface.

Bahamas

Pelican Cays Land & Sea Park on the Bahamian island of Great Abaco.

Exploring the shallows in the Pelican Cays Land & Sea Park on the Bahamian island of Great Abaco. Photo: Walt Stearns

The 700-plus islands and rocky outcroppings of the Bahamas offer innumerable snorkeling opportunities. Some require small aircraft transfers, and many more can be reached only by liveaboard dive charters or private boats. The primary resort islands—Grand Bahama and New Providence—offer numerous guided encounters that include everything from family-friendly fish-watching excursions to adrenal-packed shark feeds. Visitors who range into the Out Islands can often find an interesting patch of coral by simply wading out from the beach, and a bit more swimming may bring them to a fringing reef on the edge of blue water. One of the best places to enjoy snorkeling freedom is on the northern end of less-visited Andros Island, with a stay at Small Hope Bay Lodge. The family-owned property has been a favorite of fishermen, divers and solitude seekers for more than 50 years, but its amenities have kept up with the times. The resort offers both guided and DIY snorkel adventures, including trips to the fascinating blue holes that dot the island’s wooded interior. 

Belize

Belize, Ambergris Caye reef

A lone French angelfish patrols a shallow reef in the waters near Ambergris Caye, Belize. Photo: Dennis Sabo/iStock

The green jungles and coastal swamps of Belize are flanked by the Western Hemisphere’s longest barrier reef. A number of low lying islands—known locally as cayes—punctuate these reefs, some of which are home to thatch-roofed eco huts offering a true out-island experience. If the Robinson Crusoe lifestyle isn’t for you, Ambergris Caye is your destination. Though no longer the sleepy fishing village it once was, Ambergris still manages to exude a small-town vibe, but with a first-class collection of beachfront resorts tossed into the mix. Finding a snorkel site can be as easy as finning out from the sand to one of the numerous patch reefs. A guide is usually needed for visits to signature sites such as Hol Chan Marine Reserve and Shark Ray Alley, where regular feedings have attracted a resident population of gregarious rays and nurse sharks—relax, they won’t bite. When weather permits, the more adventurous can sign up for an all-day offshore excursion to Lighthouse Reef, home to the famous Blue Hole and the stellar shallow reefs of Half Moon Caye. Accommodations on Ambergris range from idyllic beachfront suites at low-key properties such as X’tah Ha to upscale resorts such as Coco Beach Resort or the fully-cloistered luxury retreat Matachica Resort & Spa, which are a boat ride away from the downtown. 

British Virgin Islands

BVI, snorkeling the baths

The Baths on Virgin Gorda in the British Virgin Islands provide a dramatic backdrop for snorkelers. Photo: Christian Wheatley/iStock

This group of islands has a number of sites where one could don mask and snorkel and explore the coral-encrusted rocks along the shores of the British Virgins, but most require a boat for access. This proves ideal for those who charter in this sailor’s paradise; land-based vacationers can book a trip through dive shops or tour companies scattered across the major islands. Perennial favorite destinations include the Indians, near Norman Island, and the Baths, Dogs and Prickly Pear Island on Virgin Gorda. For the best self-guided, wade-in snorkeling experience, travelers will have to make their way to the somewhat remote island of Anegada. In contrast to its mountainous green siblings to the south, Anegada is a low-lying coral isle covered in scrub, but blessed with one of the region’s finest beaches, Loblolly Bay. There, you can establish a beachhead at the Big Bamboo beach club before swimming out to discover Horseshoe Reef, home to an enchanting world of coral grottoes and shallow reefs. The Bamboo has cottages for rent in case you linger too long at the open-air bar and loose ambition. If the remote and somewhat rustic isn’t for you, day trips to Anegada can be staged from Virgin Gorda, where you can enjoy a more civilized stay at Little Dix Bay. 

Grand Cayman

Grand Cayman's Stingray City, tropical snorkeling destinations

At Grand Cayman’s Stingray City, resident southern stingrays are conditioned to human interaction. Photo: Walt Stearns

Popular west-end snorkel sites such as Eden Rock and the Cali Wreck are best visited when the cruise ships aren’t in town, lest you find yourself awash in a sea of day-trippers. There’s no avoiding the crowds at much-publicized Stingray City, but it remains a must-do. If possible, book your boat ride with a smaller operator who doesn’t cater to the cruise ships; try to arrive at a slack or incoming tide for best water clarity. To find snorkeling solitude, head for Rum Point, where you can fin out from the palm-shaded beach for a self-guided tour of the north shore’s shallow fringing reefs. To escape the bustle of Seven Mile Beach, stay at the adjacent Retreat at Rum Point.

St. Croix

USVI, St. Croix snorkeling

The coral reefs of St. Croix’s Buck Island Reef National Monument provide guided snorkel trails. Photo: U.S. Virgin Islands Department of Tourism

A snorkel trip to Buck Island is an almost mandatory aquatic pilgrimage for visitors to St. Croix. It’s been more than 50 years since this uninhabited island and its surrounding reefs were granted protective status as a national monument. The reefs have held up well to the ongoing stream of human traffic, thanks in part to the marked underwater snorkel trails that guide swimmers through the coral mazes. But Buck Island is far from the island’s only noteworthy snorkel venue. A short swim from any of several beaches along the island’s northeastern shore will lead to less-visited shallow reefs, and there are several waterfront resorts that sit just inshore of great snorkeling. East of Christiansted, the Tamarind Reef Resort offers upscale amenities and a beach that’s just a short swim away from an excellent and well-protected shallow reef that teems with fish life. Other properties within easily reach and lively reefs include The Buccaneer on Mermaid Beach, and, well to the west, the more secluded environs of The Palms at Pelican Cove. 

 

 

Big animal encounters, Diving with Goliath Grouper
Bahamas, Bahamas-Grand Bahama Island, Bahamas-New Providence, Bahamas-Out Islands, Belize, Cancun, Caribbean, Cayman Islands, Dominican Republic, Florida, Florida Keys, Play, Trip Ideas

10 Places in the Tropics for Big Animal Encounters

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Coral reefs and colorful tropical fish are what many seek when they embark on snorkeling or diving adventures. But there are bigger fish in the sea, and at select places in the Caribbean and tropical Atlantic, you can be all but guaranteed a chance to come face to face with critters that are closer to your own size—or significantly larger. Here are some of the best big animal adventures I’ve enjoyed and can endorse.

Giant Grouper

You’ll need to be comfortable performing a drift dive at depths of 60 to 80 feet for an almost-guaranteed chance to see the biggest fish on the reef. Protected status has brought the Goliath grouper back to the reefs of South Florida, where it’s sometimes possible to swim with 40 or more fish weighting 200 to 400 pounds. The annual late-summer spawn brings together the greatest number of fish, but there’s a good chance of seeing several behemoths cruising the ledges off Jupiter, Florida, at any time of the year.

Moray Eel

The teeth are wicked sharp, but that doesn’t stop Spencer Slate from hand feeding the moray eel he’s nicknamed Sundance. It’s all part of his weekly Creature Feature dives, which take place on the coral reefs near Key Largo, Florida. The big eel isn’t the only animal that comes when Spencer pulls out some tasty fish treats. There’s also a large resident grouper that shoulders in for a bite, and at least one nurse shark, destined to become the recipient of one of Spenser’s bear hugs. Next, participants in the feed are given the chance to mug with the animals themselves while the dive shop’s photo pro shoots souvenir stills and video.

Humpback Whales

Every year from January to April, pods of humpback whales pass through a region known as the Silver Banks. Located some 60 miles north of the Dominican Republic, this marine sanctuary has become a prime destination for in-water humpback encounters. Due to the long runs from shore, these interspecies meet-ups are usually staged from liveaboard dive boats. If jumping overboard isn’t for you, opt for a single- day whale-watching trip in Samana Bay.

Loggerhead Turtles

Sea turtles are among the most common large animals found on reefs throughout the Caribbean, and they are usually quite tolerant of divers and snorkelers—though it’s never a good idea to chase or harasser them. The experience turns from ooh to wow when the encounter involves a loggerhead turtle. These heavyweight hard shells can grow to 300 pounds or more, and live to a half century. A good place to find them in shallow water is among the remains of the Sugar Wreck, which is located just off Grand Bahama’s west end.

Manatee

When Florida’s coastal waters grow cool in the winter months, resident herds of sea cows move into the relatively warmer waters of spring-fed estuaries such as Crystal River on the Gulf side of the state. There, it’s possible to don mask, snorkel and a wet suit to get up close with these gentle giants. Just don’t get too aggressive or attempt to touch them, as there are strict regulations regarding interactions. This will all be explained to you during the brief ride from dock to manatee sanctuary. For more than two decades, Bird’s Underwater has remained one of the most reliable and convenient operators for manatee encounters.

Nurse Sharks

The sound of an approaching boat draws an aquatic menagerie of moochers that includes grouper, jacks, southern stingrays and nurse sharks to the sandy shallows known as Shark Ray Alley. These fish were originally conditioned to seek scraps from local fishermen, who once stopped here to clean their catch. The site is now part of the Hol Chan Marine Reserve and one of the most popular aquatic attractions in Belize. The nurse sharks, typically as benign as their name implies, sometimes seem to nuzzle up to swimmers, but what they are really after is a handout. Several operators run trips to the site from nearby Ambergris Caye.

Reef Sharks

The Bahamas offer a wide range of shark-diving adventures, some mild, some wild. The most accessible, consistent and safest are the reef shark encounters offered by Stuart Cove’s Aqua Adventures. You can don scuba to watch these impressive predators take the bait during a shark-feeding dive, observe them circling below while snorkeling the reefs, or climb into one of Stuart’s unique one-person submersibles to motor among them. The shop picks up at most of the major resorts on New Providence and Paradise Island, and caters to everyone from first-timers to movie crews who come here for guaranteed action footage.

Wild Dolphins

The meetings between human and cetacean that take place in the bright, sand-bottom shoals of the Bahamas are nothing like the encounters staged with captive animals. These are spotted pods of wild, free- swimming dolphin. When they approach, it is of their own free will, not institutional conditioning. Pods can sometimes be found in the Little Bahama Bank, but it is near the small island of Bimini that they make their most consistent appearances. Dolphin day trips can be booked with tour companies on Bimini, or for an extended adventure, there are dedicated liveaboards offering trips of up to a week.

Stingrays

Stingray feeds have spread to several islands in the Caribbean, but the original and still the most popular takes place in the waters of Grand Cayman’s North Sound. Here, dozens of tour boats are drawn to a shallow patch of sand where a resident group of stingrays has been conditioned to accept a free seafood meal. While participants kneel or stand in the shallows, the rays flit among them, getting up close to create memorable photo ops. There are actually two adjacent sites where the rays are fed, and for the best experience, avoid the large boats that ferry cruise-ship crowds and opt for one of the smaller operators.

Whale Sharks

The idea of coming face to face with a 35-foot-long shark might be alarming, were if not for the fact that these filter-feeding giants gorge on plankton, not humans. In fact, when you find yourself in the path of one of these slow-moving fish, they seem to pay you little mind as they move forward with mouths agape to suck in their tiny prey. The best place to swim with whale sharks is on the Contoy Banks, which lie north of Cancun and are best reached by boats leaving from Isla Mujeres or the more remote Holbox Island. Prime whale-spotting season begins in late May and runs into early September.