Tag Archives: BVI

Belize Hol Chan Reef Scene
Aruba, Bahamas, Bahamas-Out Islands, Belize, Bonaire, British Virgin Islands, Cancun, Caribbean, Central America, Mexico, Play, St. Lucia, St. Vincent & the Grenadines, Trip Ideas, Turks & Caicos, U.S. Virgin Islands

The Caribbean’s Best Snorkel Sites

Leave a comment

 

The Caribbean is home to thousands of snorkel-worthy beaches and reefs, and I’ve spent hundreds of hours exploring sites near and far. For the optimum combination of calm water, easy access, vibrant coral growth, abundant fish life and sheer variety, here are my favorites.

Kline Bonaire

Coral reefs start close to shore all along Bonaire’s sheltered western coastline, but the most colorful sites are a short boat ride away. A five- minute ride across calm water brings you to the low-lying, uninhabited shores of Kline Bonaire. Your boat captain can choose from one of more than two dozen sites based on conditions, and my consistent favorite begins right off No Name Beach, where hard and soft coral growth starts in as little as five feet of water.

Bonaire Klein Turtles

Sea turtles are often seen along the shoreline of deserted Kline Bonaire island, which is just a short boat ride from dive resorts on the west coast of Bonaire. Photo: Alejandro Gutierrez/ Tourism Corporation Bonaire

Anse Chastanet, St. Lucia

I’ve spent hours watching the fish life on Anse Chastanet Reef, but every so often, I find myself pausing to admire the view above the water. A foreground of golden sand and jungle green frame the towering profiles of St. Lucia’s most famous landmarks, the Pitons. Just a short swim from shore, a coral-covered plateau presents an undulating profile that rises within five feet of the surface, and then falls from 20 feet to depths of more than 100. In addition to large schools of tropical fish, this site is known for its small invertebrates, giving critter spotters hours of enjoyable hunting.

St Lucia Anse Chastanet Snorkeling

On the island of St. Lucia, the twin spires of the Pitons provide a dramatic backdrop for snorkelers exploring the near shore reefs at Anse Chastanet. Photo: Bernd Rac/Anse Chastanet Resort

The Indians, British Virgin Islands

Between the bareboat fleets, tour operators and private boaters, you’ll seldom find the waters around the rock pinnacles known as the Indians deserted. But that’s OK, there’s plenty of coral-covered reef to go around. I especially enjoy the steep cliff faces to the west, where seas are calmest and the underwater landscape is the most dramatic. The usual roster of reef characters there in abundance, including blue tangs, queen angels and a colorful assortment of parrotfish. Peek into the crevices and you might discover an eel or lobster lurking in the shadows.

BVI the Indians Rocks

The distinctive rock pinnacles known as the Indians are the most popular snorkeling destination in the British Virgin Islands, offering clear water and colorful corals. Photo: BVI Tourist Board

Puerto Morelos, Mexico

Cancun isn’t known for great snorkeling. But drive a few miles south to the sleepy fishing village of Puerto Morelos, and you’re just a short boat ride from the Yucatan’s premier national marine park. The coral gardens begin a half-mile from the beach, and there are always a number of panga-style launches on the beach, with gregarious crews ready to provide guided snorkel tours of the park. Depths are typically less than 10 feet, making it easy to spot the menagerie of reef creatures that flit through the sea fans and coral fingers.

Puerto Morales Mexico Reef Fish Snorkel

A short distance south of Cancun, the national marine park at Puerto Morales features protected reefs rich in fish life and corals. Photo: Adam Saltman/Flickr

Smith’s Reef, Turks & Caicos

There are literally hundreds of miles of pristine shallow reef to explore around the islands of the Turks & Caicos. When I’m staying on Providenciales, and don’t feel like a boat ride, there’s no need to go far. Right off the beach is a three-mile expanse of coral heads and sea grass shallows known as Smith’s Reef. I sometimes enjoy searching the grass beds for hidden critters, but it’s the coral heads that hold the greatest variety of life. To locate a coral patch from shore, look for the patches of water that have a brownish tint, which indicates hard bottom.

Turks and Caicos Smiths Reef

On the island of Providenciales in the Turks & Caicos island group, the coral heads of Smith’s Reef start just offshore of the Turtle Cove Marina and stretch for three miles to the east. Photo: Turks & Caicos Tourist Board

Exumas Land and Sea Park, Bahamas

In the heart of the Bahamas, the Exuma Land and Sea Park encompasses dozens of islands and miles of protected reef. The best way to explore the fish-laden waters of this aquatic preserve is by signing up for a half or full day boat tour. The guides will not only know which sites are best based on tides and weather, they will also put you on to a number of additional adventures such as a swim through the hidden grotto from the James Bond film Thunderball, or a visit to the famous swimming pigs of the Exumas.

Exumas Bahamas Land Sea Park

The Exumas Land and Sea Park encompasses a number of small islands and thousands of acres of shoals and reefs ideal for swimming and snorkeling. Photo: Darryl Massaro/Flickr

Hol Chan Marine Reserve, Belize

Belize’s original marine reserve packs a lot of underwater diversity into a relatively small area. Hol Chan is the Mayan phrase for “little channel” and when snorkelers arrive at this cut in the reef after an easy boat ride from Ambergris Caye, they are treated to spur and grove coral formations, sea brass beds and mangrove nurseries. Most tours also take in the site’s famous Shark Ray Alley, where southern stingrays and nurse sharks gather to nosh on fishy morsels offered by dive guides. The interaction is safe, and will put you right in the middle of the action.

Belize Hol Chan Nurse Sharks

Nurse sharks gather in the shallow waters of Belize’s Hol Chan Marine Reserve in anticipation of a free meal of fish scraps. These placid reef dwellers pose no danger to humans. Photo: iStock

Buck Island, St. Croix

It’s been more than 50 years since Buck Island Reef was declared a National Monument, and it’s still one of the Caribbean’s most popular snorkel sites. Located off the northeastern shore of St. Croix, Buck Island offers deserted white sand beaches and an encircling reef dominated by branching Elkhorn formations and groves of undulating sea fans. An underwater snorkel trail leads through the coral maze, which is home to hawksbill sea turtles. Shallow depths put swimmers face to face with the many tropical fish that seek shelter in the branching arms of the corals.

St Croix USVI Buck Island

St. Croix’s Buck Island National Monument includes a white sand beach and one of the most extensive groves of elkhorn corals in the Caribbean. Photo: Steve Simonsen/ US Virgin Island Department of Tourism

De Palm Island, Aruba

A visit to Aruba’s De Palm Island is part snorkel trip, part beach party. Located just off the main island’s southern coast, this all-inclusive day resort offers half and full day experiences that include beachside buffets, libations, entertainment and guided tours to the nearby reef, which is one of the best on the island. Snorkel equipment and instruction are included in the price of admission, and while water conditions are beginner friendly, the underwater landscape offers plenty to keep even veteran snorkelers enthralled.

Aruba De Palm Island

De Palm Island is located just off the coast of Aruba. Guests who come for an all-inclusive beach day can enjoy guided or individual snorkeling on reefs just off the beach. Photo: De Palm Tours

Horseshoe Reef, Tobago Cays

I love to swim with sea turtles, and one of the best places to do this in the southern Caribbean is in the Tobago Cays. This collection of five uninhabited islands lies just east of Mayreau in the southern Grenadines. It became a wildlife reserve in 2006, and is home to a colorful array of marine life— including a population of resident turtles. The formation known as Horseshoe Reef encircles four of the five islands to create calm conditions for snorkeling. Portions of the park can get a bit crowded when several tour boats arrive at once, but even on busy days I’ve always been able to slip off and find a quieter corner of the reef to enjoy.

Horseshoe Reef Snorkeling St Vincent Grenadines in Tobago Cay

In the southern Grenadines, a group of five small, uninhabited islands known as the Tobago Cays provide excellent snorkeling within the protected shallows of Horseshoe Reef. Photo: Debbie Snow

BVI Jost Van Dyke White Bay
British Virgin Islands, Caribbean, Eat, Trip Ideas

10 Best Beach Bars in the British Virgin Islands

Leave a comment

 

Many BVI beaches have that deserted-island feel, but what fun is being marooned if there’s no rum to be had? Luckily, there is no shortage of beach bars in this British territory, each with its own vibe and a gorgeous setting to match. Several of our top 10 favorites are not accessible by land, so get ready to bar hop in the best way possible — by boat.

Soggy Dollar, Jost Van Dyke

The best party in the BVI happens here every day, and you’re invited. Whether you want to people watch or be part of the show, this beachfront bar is packed by midday with all kinds of swimsuit-clad characters who share one common accessory: a painkiller in hand. When quaffed at the jaw-droppingly beautiful White Bay, where this deliciously sweet, perfectly tropical concoction originated, the painkiller will indeed make you forget that pain is even a thing. An afternoon nap in one of the quintessential hammocks strung between palm trees is a given, and don’t leave Soggy Dollar without earning bragging rights by prevailing over the bar’s famous time-killer, the ring game.

Soggy Dollar Bar Jost Van Dyke BVI

The Soggy Dollar bar is known as the home of the famous Painkiller cocktail. The establishment got its name from the wet currency provided by the customers who swam ashore from anchored sailboats. Photo: Andrea Milam

Ivan’s Stress Free Bar, Jost Van Dyke

A stone’s throw from the wildly popular Soggy Dollar Bar but worlds apart when it comes to ambiance, Ivan’s Stress Free Bar is the place to go for some laid-back beach limin’. Your most difficult decision here is whether to glide on the tire swing, sway in the hammock, or plant yourself in a beach chair while you enjoy a drink from the bar. The party crowd tends to favor nearby Soggy Dollar, making Ivan’s one of the most peaceful beach bars in the Caribbean. Though the bar’s proprietor and namesake is getting up there in age — Ivan Chinnery just celebrated his 71st birthday with a low-key party and some live steel pan music — he still makes appearances here from time to time. If this spot looks familiar to you, it should. Ivan’s provided the backdrop for Kenny Chesney’s No Shirt, No Shoes, No Problem music video.

Ivans Stress Free Bar BVI Jost Van Dyke

Low-key relaxation is the mantra at Ivan’s Stress Free Bar. When the bar is not tended, a sign directs patrons to mix their own drinks and deposit payment in an honor box. Photo: Andrea Milam

Foxy’s, Jost Van Dyke

Boaters know how to party, so the fact that they all end the day by mooring in Great Harbour should be your first clue that Foxy’s Bar is the place to be. The life of the party is often Foxy Callwood himself, who delights the crowd with his impromptu songs and jokes. His colorful personality and carefree energy make this beach bar authentic, the real deal — no kitsch here! Rum and draft beers are made on-site, and Foxy’s big weekend BBQ fuels up patrons who dance the night away. Foxy’s has been an island institution for decades for a reason. Get here and find out why.

BVI Foxys Bar Jost Van Dyke

Foxy’s Tamarind Bar is famous for it’s weekly beach barbecues and annual Old Year’s Night celebration, which draws thousands of revelers from around the world. Photo: Compflight

Foxy’s Taboo, Jost Van Dyke

A quick hop over the hill from its “parent” restaurant but worlds apart when it comes to atmosphere, Foxy’s Taboo is a super laid-back lunch spot favored by day trippers who arrive at the dock hungry and ready to relax. Service is pleasant and friendly, and though a Mediterranean- inspired menu at a small Caribbean island restaurant may seem out of place, Taboo nails it with their fresh pizzas, hummus, and eggplant cheesecake. Top off your meal with a bushwacker — like a liquor-laden chocolate milkshake for adults — then make the short hike to the wild, wonderful Bubbly Pool before hopping back aboard your boat charter and heading out to your next stop.

B-Line Beach Bar, Little Jost

For years, old favorites have dominated the BVI beach bar scene. But now, there’s a new kid in town, and at less than a year old, this new arrival is holding its own against the longtime contenders. B-Line Beach Bar has all the necessary elements for a laid-back experience, from games like corn hole for the competitive set, to plenty of lounge chairs spread across a gorgeous little slice of beach for those whose main goal of the day is to sit and relax. B-Line even has its own signature drink, the Passion Confusion. This sublime mixture of fruit juices and pineapple rum with a dark rum floater and a treat at the bottom in the form of rum-soaked chunks of pineapple will have you smiling like a kid in a candy store.

Bomba’s Surfside Shack, Tortola

Enjoying the beauty of a full moon from a charming beachfront shack while sipping tea sounds pretty relaxing, right? Not if that shack is Bomba’s Surfside Shack and that tea is steeped from hallucinogenic mushrooms! Built in the 1970s from various discarded materials and adorned with the undergarments of partiers past, this ramshackle beach shanty presided over by Bomba Callwood himself is the place to be if you’re looking to blow off some steam and dance the night away. Though this beach bar hosts amazing parties most nights of the week, Bomba’s full moon parties are legendary. Hopped up on Bomba’s punch or the aforementioned mushroom tea, partygoers don’t stop until dawn, sometimes losing pieces of clothing along the way.

Bombas Surf Shack Tortola BVI

On the shores of Tortola’s Capoons Bay, Bomba’s Surfside Shack is home to the infamous Full Moon parties, where inhibitions and sometimes clothing are lost in celebration. Photo: Debbie Snow

Bitter End Yacht Club, Virgin Gorda

There are few places in the world more perfect than Virgin Gorda’s North Sound, and the Bitter End Yacht Club prevails as the funnest spot to come ashore, hands down. This resort and yacht club offers a handful of places to wet your whistle like the Windward Mark Bar or The Clubhouse Bar, where you can imbibe over the wreck of Huey Long’s yacht, Ondine, which today serves as the Clubhouse bar. Feeling competitive? Test your skill with a game of pool or darts while downing one of BEYC’s 16 Sounders — that’s 16 full ounces of cocktail deliciousness — at The Crawl Pub, home of some of the Caribbean’s best handmade pizza.

Bitter End Yacht Club Windmark Bar BVI

There’s nothing exclusive about the Bitter End Yacht Club where all are welcome to come ashore and enjoy the sea breezes and views of Virgin Gorda’s North Sound. Photo: Bitter End Yacht Club

Cow Wreck Beach Bar, Anegada

If your daydreams consist of deserted islands and sweet rum drinks, Anegada’s Cow Wreck Beach Bar is your spot. A blinding white beach and luminously turquoise waters make up your view as you enjoy a painkiller that rivals Soggy Dollar’s, or one of the bar’s signature drinks, the Cow Killer and the Wreck Punch. The lobster, conch, and fish that call the BVI waters home are featured prominently on Cow Wreck’s menu. Don’t leave without trying the conch fritters, and take the time to chat with the staff, who will happily regale you with tales and lore of this authentically laid-back island.

BVI Anegada Cow Wreck Grill Beach Bar

The quiet island of Anegada is home to miles of deserted beaches and the Cow Wreck Beach Bar, where lobster and conch plucked fresh from the reef are accompanied by signature rum drinks. Photo: M.Rubenstein/Compflight

Pirates Bight, Norman Island

Straight out of a Robert Louis Stevenson novel, Norman Island is a picturesque little spit of land that happens to be home to one of the territory’s most protected anchorages, The Bight. It’s here on the shore of this gorgeous cove that you’ll find the island’s only signs of life — other than the goats who freely roam the island’s hills, that is. Pirate’s Bight welcomes hungry charter boat guests and thirsty sailors with their seafood- and rum-laden menu offerings. The Bight’s authentic roti might be the best in the BVI, though its taste is surely enhanced by the laid-back vibes and beautiful scenery at this sweet beachfront spot. The original Pirate’s Bight sadly burned down in recent years, but it was rebuilt in lighting speed and the venue is even better than ever.

Norman Island BVI Pirates Bight Bar

The Bight at Norman Island’s is one of the most popular anchorages in the British Virgins. Overlooking a sheltered beach at the head of the harbor is the Pirates Bight beach club. Photo: Debbie Snow

Willy-T, Norman Island

Within sight of Pirate’s Bight and featuring a decidedly different atmosphere, the William Thornton is a floating bar anchored off Norman Island with a distinguished name and a vibe that leans toward the raucous. Though jumping from the ship’s deck in one’s birthday suit is no longer rewarded with a t-shirt as in previous years, the stripping down and plunging in continues to this day (not that we’d know anything about that personally). Despite the Willy-T’s reputation as a party ship, the lunch hour is surprisingly tame and the food is notably tasty. As the afternoon wears on, alcohol consumption increases thanks to body shots and the famous shotski, a water-ski with four shot glasses attached which allows you and three of your closest friends to start seeing double in sync.

BVI Norman Island Willy T Bar

Permanently anchored in the waters of Norman’s Bight, the Wille T is a floating restaurant and bar where a low-key lunch vibe transforms into nightly parties that often end with leaps from the poop deck. Photo: Debbie Snow

BVI Scrub Island
Bahamas, Bahamas-Out Islands, British Virgin Islands, Caribbean, Stay, Trip Ideas, Turks & Caicos

The Caribbean’s Best Private Island Resorts

Leave a comment

 

Imagine an escape from stress and distractions, a place accessible by boat, where you can relax or recreate far from the crowds, enjoying unrivaled personal attention or a blissful solitude. This is the private island experience, and we have found four Caribbean islands that provide the ideal combination of luxury, seclusion and personal relaxation.

Scrub Island Resort, BVI

The location is ideal for anyone who loves the water. Scrub Island sits one mile from the east end of Tortola, and is ideally situated for a wide range of waters sports and nautical adventures. Fisherman are close to the rich waters of the North Drop, known as some of the best waters in the world for tuna and blue marlin fishing. The British Virgins are also known as the hub of sailing in the Caribbean, and bareboat and captained charters typically begin in nearby Tortola. The resort’s marina provides provisioning for boats as well as 55 slips for overnight dockage. And, the surrounding shallows and reefs are a must for snorkelers and divers. Guests can experience new adventures at on-site sailing and diving schools, sign up for island hopping boat tours or take a relaxing cruise to the spectacular rock formations at the Baths.

Scrub Island Marina BVI

The Marina at Scrub Island provides a starting point for aquatic adventures including sailing excursions, fishing trips, scuba diving and snorkeling charters. Photo: Scrub Island Resort

A stay on the island at one of the 52 water view rooms at Marina Village make for easy access to shops, bars, restaurants and pools. Larger parties will want to book one of the villas. Offering two or three bedrooms these private homes are equipped with full chef’s kitchens, private pools and views of Great Camanoe Island. Soothing views of blue waters complements a trio of upscale restaurants, private candlelit beachside dining and a top rated spa. The island’s natural ecosystem remains intact, with hiking trails leading to private coves and hilltop views. Three sandy beaches can be reached by walking or a ride in the resort’s shuttle—the only vehicles on the island.

Scrub Island Village Marina BVI

The Marina Village at Scrub Island includes a number of restaurants, shops and bars, allowing guests to enjoy a range of indulgences without having to leave the relaxation of their private island retreat. Photo: Scrub Island Resort

Kamalame Cay

Perched on a three-mile stretch of white sand beach overlooking the world’s third longest barrier reef, this five-star boutique resort includes just 27 suites, cottages and villas on a 96-acre private island. Residences are positioned for privacy; yet within easy strolling distance of neighbors and central amenities for recreation, fine dining and social activities. Villa interiors feature soaring beamed ceilings, Indonesian furniture and sun decks overlooking the sea. Kamalame Cay operates on eco-friendly principles, and is moving toward 100 percent solar power. An onsite garden supplies many of the greens and herbs used in locavore-themed meals, and free-range chickens supply fresh eggs for morning omelets.

Kamalame Cay Deck Andros Island Bahamas

A waterfront deck at Kamalame Cay overlooks a three-mile stretch of white sand beach and blue waters, which are home to the world’s third longest barrier reef. Photo: David Scarpati/Kamalame Cay

In addition to beach time, guests can enjoy a full range of water sports, including kayaking, snorkeling, diving and fishing on the reefs that plunge into the vivid blue waters of the Tongue of the Ocean. Ashore, beach bikes are a favorite for cruising the shaded sand road that runs the length of the island, while an the overwater spa with ceiling to floor windows face the turquoise lagoon. Cottages and villas include full-equipped kitchens, with private chef services available, while the Great House is home to one of the top-rated restaurants in the Bahamas. In addition to monthly wine pairings the newest social mixer on the island is a progressive dinner where guests dine at a different villa for every course, ending up on the beach for desert.

Kamalame Cay Exterior Bahamas Andros

Villas at Kamalame Cay are set beachside amidst a lush tropical landscape on a private island just off the coast of Andros, the largest and least settled island in the Bahamas. Photo: David Scarpati/Kamalame Cay

Peter Island Resort, BVI

The largest private island in the British Virgins, Peter Island is separated from the bustle of Tortola by the blue waters of the Sir Francis Drake channel. A private yacht ferries guests to this 1,300 acre oasis of tropical solitude, where guests can settle into seaside suites and villas and enjoy all the perks of a world-class resort. As one might expect, water sports such as sailing, diving and snorkeling feature prominently, but many guests come for relaxation, and find it at the world-class spa, and on nature walks along paths that lead to quiet coves and hidden beaches.

BVI Peter Island Deadmans Bay Beach Watersports

Peter Island offers a wide range of water sports for the active, and private beaches for those who prefer to relax in the shade and enjoy a book or a favorite libation. Photo: Preston Schlebusch/Peter Island Resort

Peter Island offers a beach for every mood and every day. For an active day, Deadman’s Beach has all of the water toys including windsurfers, snorkel gear and paddle boards. Instruction is available and after an energetic day on the water, Deadman’s Bar & Grill is right there to replenish and nourish. Away from the activity yet great for a swim is nearby Little Deadman’s Beach. For the quintessential palm tree-studded sandy beach where waves gently roll onshore, there is Big Reef Bay. The spa overlooks this area, which is a perfect tropical escape in the early mornings and evenings. Aptly named Honeymoon Beach provides the romance of a grass-roofed shelter where private catered picnics are served, and on the opposite side of the island sits the pristine shores of White Bay where you can spend the day snorkeling with sea turtles.

Peter Island Little Deadmans Beach

Deadman’s Beach is the center of water sports activity on Peter Island. This beach and cove takes its name from the uninhabited island in the background, which is the storied Dead Man’s Chest of pirate lore. Photo: Peter Island Resort

Parrot Cay

When guests depart from Providenciales for a half-hour boat ride to Parrot Cay, a 1,000-acre island, it is as if they are stepping into another world, where everyday cares and responsibilities are put on hold. Surrounded by the shimmering turquoise waters for which the Turks & Caicos Islands are famous, this East Indian inspired resort and expansive natural surroundings become a canvas to create your formula for recreation, relaxation and rejuvenation. Walk the 3.2 miles of sugary sands that surround the island, snorkel in the shallows or commune with nature in the tranquility of the nature preserve. The island’s mangrove forests and wetlands are home to 175 species of birds.

Parrot Cay Yoga Pool Turks And Caicos

Relaxation and rejuvenation take many forms at the tranquil setting of Parrot Cay, which sits on a thousand-acre nature reserve surrounded by the sparkling waters of the Turks & Caicos. Photo: Debbie Snow

It’s hard to return to reality after spending time at Parrot Cay, but easy to depart in better shape than when you arrived. On the tranquil eastern side of the island you will find the COMO Shambhala Retreat, an Asian-influenced spa with gardens, pools, terraces and pavilions for yoga and mediation overlooking the wetlands towards the North Caicos channel. Mind body connections are endemic to Parrot Cay and part of the experience of staying there. Asian-based therapies range from shiatsu to Ayurvedic detox programs. An Ayurvedic doctor is a permanent resident, for those who wish to undergo a consultation and program. You can be as active as you wish and most guests take in a yoga class in the early morning, a Pilates session midday and an afternoon swim. Guests also relish the Asian and Mediterranean influenced cuisines as well as the healthy Shambhala cuisine, which is designed to energize and nourish; yet delivering a delicious distinctive gourmet experience. Homemade organic carrot cake is on the dessert menu.

Parrot Cay Healthy Food

At Parrot Cay, Asian and Mediterranean-influenced cuisines are mated with Shambhala principles to energize and nourish while providing a delicious distinctive dining experience. Photo: Debbie Snow

 

BVI Tortola Can Garden Bay
British Virgin Islands, Caribbean, Plan, Trip Ideas

Caribbean Snapshots: Cane Garden Bay, Tortola BVI

Leave a comment

 

Tortola’s favorite beach has something for everyone. Encircling hills and an offshore barrier reef shelter a crescent of soft sand from prevailing winds and ocean swells, enticing beach goers to spread a towel and relax. Cruising sailors drop anchor in the protected harbor, which also serves as an inviting aquatic playground for snorkeling and beach-based water sports. In winter, surfers ride the wave that breaks on the outside reef, while swimmers enjoy calm beachfront conditions year round.

Laid-back beach bars and several small hotels overlook the shoreline, and the palm-shaded plaza attracts an eclectic mix of vendors offering everything from hair braiding and handicrafts to chilled coconut water. Just steps away is one of the Caribbean’s most historic rum distilleries, which has been operated by the Callwood family for more than 200 years.

The beach scene is chill by day, but when happy hour rolls around the sands pulse to the sounds of island tunes and most everyone has some type of libation in hand. Dinghies ferry boat crews ashore, and revelers flow from bar to bar. Long-standing landmarks such as Quito’s Gazebo, Myett’s and Rhymer’s offer food, drink and live music and when there is standing room only the crowds spill out onto the sand.

Virgin Gorda Devils Bay BVI
British Virgin Islands, Caribbean, Plan

Caribbean Snapshots: Devil’s Bay, Virgin Gorda

Leave a comment

 

Devil’s Bay is the quieter side of Virgin Gorda’s famous Baths. Most visitors to this scenic wonder arrive at Spring Bay, which is located just north of the giant beachside boulder field that is the site’s signature feature. Spring Bay offers restrooms, cool drinks and local vendors offering everything from handicrafts to hair braiding.

Finding the relative solitude of Devil’s Bay, which sits south of the boulders, will require either a ten-minute walk from the hillside parking lot or an energetic scramble over, under and through the massive rock formations. The reward is a magnificent, secluded beach that has been called one of the most beautiful in the Caribbean, plus a sheltered cove perfect for swimming or snorkeling.

Tortola Long Bay Beach
British Virgin Islands, Caribbean, Plan, Trip Ideas

Caribbean Snapshots: Long Bay Beach, Tortola, BVI

Leave a comment

 

Though you may hear locals refer to it as the “big island,” Tortola is actually just 12 miles long by three miles wide. The nickname may have as much to do with the island’s role as the British Virgin’s hub of government and commercial activity. But if you hike the forested slopes, drive the coastline or explore hidden coves by boat, its 22-square-miles can seem larger than the statistics would suggest. Scattered across this landscape are a collection of vacation villas and boutique hotels that provide a relaxing retreat, or a base for daily adventures to area beaches and nearby islands.

One of Tortola’s best stretches of white sand is Long Bay Beach. Located on the island’s north shore, the mile-long swath of sugar- fine granules is ideal for swimming, beach walks or just relaxing. Never crowded, there’s always plenty of room to stretch out a towel or borrow beach chairs from Long Bay Beach Resort, which offers hillside suites with views of Jost van Dyke. The resort bar and restaurant are within easy reach of the beach, providing a break from the sun and a welcoming spot for lunch or cocktails. Picturesque and calm, the bay is dotted with sailboats and flanked by palm trees that offer a cool bit of shade. Come sundown the vibrant blues of the water and the dazzling white of the sand transition to pinks and oranges, providing a mellowing cast to the scene just in time for happy hour.

Soggy Dollar Bar, BVU, Jost Van Dyke
British Virgin Islands, Caribbean, Eat, Trip Ideas

Caribbean Beach Bars: Soggy Dollar Bar, Jost Van Dyke, British Virgin Islands

1 Comment

 

It’s hard to imagine how anyone relaxing in a beach chair overlooking White Bay could be feeling any pain. But that doesn’t stop patrons of Jost Van Dyke island’s Soggy Dollar Bar from ordering up a round of the Pusser’s Painkillers that have made this landmark watering hole one of the most famous in the Caribbean. The origins of this signature drink date to the 1970s, long before the island offered paved roads or electricity. Back then, the only way to reach this beach was to anchor nearby and row, paddle or swim ashore—assumedly with a pocket full of soggy dollars to pay for libations.

The bar’s original owner, Daphne Henderson, is credited with creating the savory juice and rum cocktail, which was later made famous by the founder of the Pusser’s Rum company. These days, patrons are less concerned with the history of the drink than with its effects. There are few better places in the world to relax on a sunny afternoon under the soothing influences of a Painkiller or two, with nothing more on the agenda than a few tries at the bar’s much-loved ring game, a dip in the bay, a nap in the sun… and perhaps another round of Painkillers.

Cayman Brac Hiking
Antigua & Barbuda, British Virgin Islands, Caribbean, Cayman Islands, Dominica, Nevis, Play, Puerto Rico, Trip Ideas, U.S. Virgin Islands

The Caribbean’s Ten Top Hikes

Leave a comment

 

When you are vacationing in the Caribbean, you’re already far outside your everyday, so why not take the next step-or several hundred of them-to widen your island experience with a hike. Tread these natural sanctuaries for encounters with local birds and wildlife, lush rainforests and sweeping panoramas of paradise. We’ve hiked the duds and the winners to give you a list of the Caribbean’s best trails—from breezy to push-the-limits challenging —winding past waterfalls, rivers, beaches, tide pools and so much more.

The Bubbly Pool Hike, Jost Van Dyke, British Virgin Islands

From Foxy’s Taboo, a popular bar and party spot on Great Harbour, the bartenders can steer you to the start of this 15- minute, super easy walk to the island’s rock-walled soaking spot. You’ll end at a pool with crashing waves sending spray overhead and a surge of bubbles up into the basin where you’re standing.

Lighthouse Footpath, Cayman Brac, Cayman Islands

Start at either end of this trail for a 90-minute walk each way past nesting grounds of brown boobies. If you make the lighthouse at the island’s easternmost point your halfway mark, pack a lunch to enjoy while sitting on limestone cliffs overlooking breaking waves. Free printed guides are available: Ask at the front desk of Brac Reef Beach Resort, or see the pamphlet in your guesthouse to arrange your hike.

The Signal Hill Tour, Antigua

Antigua’s shortest and easiest hike starts at Wallings Dam, found at the end of Fig Tree Drive. From there, it’s about an hour—if you don’t stop—to the top of Signal Hill, which rewards finishers with a 360-degree island view. If you’d like to learn more about local history and wildlife, join a tour company like Footsteps Rainforest Hiking Tours.

The Annaly Bay Tide Pool Hike, St. Croix, U.S. Virgin Islands

You won’t need fins for the tide pools at the end of this hike, but do pack a snorkel mask so you can take a cool dip and see the juvenile fish nesting in the shallows. Start this moderate, 2-mile hike behind Carambola Beach Resort and Spa. The parking-lot attendant can point you to the trailhead. It’s a fairly straightforward trail that climbs the bluffs overlooking the island’s north shore. You’ll surely stop several times to snap photos, so the uphill stretches won’t feel too strenuous.

El Toro Hike, Puerto Rico

Most visitors to El Yunque National Forest stick to the roadside pullovers immediately adjacent to waterfalls and other attractions. El Toro Trail sees few visitors despite being a moderate, well-marked 2.2-mile journey to the forest’s highest point. Wear long pants and shoes you don’t mind getting caked in mud. As for the vista, allow time to sit and enjoy the clouds rolling in.

The Sandy Cruz Trail, Saba

A visit to Saba, a satellite island of St. Maarten, is all about the cloud forest. Wait for a day when the fog has subsided around Mount Scenery, then set off on this hike. Before you go, grab a trail map from The Trail Shop at the foot of the mountain—the attendants will also keep tabs on your return. This moderate hike is the best pick for those who want to see a diversity of flora and fauna. The trail winds past banana tree groves and dense cloud forest dotted with a rainbow of orchids, and opens up to a vista overlooking the island’s airport runway, one of the world’s shortest and most adrenaline inducing.

Victoria Falls Hike, Dominica

Lose the hiking boots in favor of Tevas or similar water-ready shoes as you’ll wade across a river several times. The path can be tricky to keep track of on your own, so it’s a good idea to hire a guide for the day. Jenner Robinson of JennTours is a good pick. He’s from Dominica and has a knack for pointing out the birds of the canopy. As for the 45-minute climb, the incline isn’t too great; the challenge is staying stable atop wet rocks. But the reward is lovely. You’ll likely be the only ones admiring the 165-foot cascade of Victoria Falls.

Mount Qua Qua Trail, Grenada

Grenada is a wonderland for hikers and birders alike. The rainforest around Grand Etang Lake—what’s become of the former volcano—is home to mona monkeys, broad-winged hawks, Lesser Antillean swifts and tons of tiny frogs. A moderate pick is the Mount Qua Qua Trail, a 90-minute cruise past the lake, the elfin mountain forests and a host of canopy critters.

The Quill, St. Eustatius

It’s the jungle-covered volcanic cone that dominates the skyline from points across this small island, and it’s a gorgeous hike. The 50-minute uphill jaunt known as the Quill Trail is Statia’s most popular hike as it offers direct access to an overlook of the crater bowl. If you want to keep going, you can connect to the Crater Trail for a 90-minute circuit of the volcano’s rainforest-covered inner crater. Boven National Park also maps six other trails, all great for spying fauna like red-bellied racer snakes, Antillean iguanas, hummingbirds and more.

Nevis Peak Hike, Nevis

Steep and slippery, this hike is one worth doing with a guide, such as Lynell Liburd of Sunrise Tours. The 3,000-foot incline takes two hours to scale and two hours to pick your way down—and none of the locals call it hiking. It’s more about finding footing and grabbing hold of roots to gain ground. If it’s a clear day, you score a view of the island’s Atlantic side. Otherwise, it’s just a really satisfying workout.

 

Caribbean Hammock
British Virgin Islands, Caribbean, Cozumel, Mexico, Nevis, Stay, Trip Ideas

Six Caribbean Resorts Where Irresistible Hammocks Await

Leave a comment

The word comes to us from the Taino people: amaca. These woven strands evolved from fishing nets into chairs, beds and carry sacks. Sailors slung them in the holds of their trading vessels and jungle explorers carried them in lieu of bedding. Today, hammocks evoke relaxation and provide a perfect place to rest or nod off for an afternoon nap as a sea breeze tempers the heat of the day. Whether suspended over lush green grass, beachfront or just outside your private palapa, a hammock is always a welcome site when you arrive at a Caribbean resort.

BVI, sailing the baths
British Virgin Islands, Caribbean, Plan, Trip Ideas

Discovering the British Virgin Islands by Boat

2 Comments

 

Planning a vacation to the British Virgin Islands (BVI) is a bit like opening a box of chocolates. So many tempting choices that it’s hard to choose just one. Nightlife or seclusion? Luxury villa or beachfront cottage? Each island has something slightly different to offer. So why not try them all. Gorging might be a bad thing when it comes to sweets, but if you take to the sea, you can sample the best of the BVI, setting your own pace and itinerary as you harbor hop.

Discovering the British Virgin Islands by Boat

Stowing a kayak aboard allows you to tour the harbor when the big boat remains tied to the mooring. Photo: Pierce Hoover

Ideal Islands

There’s a reason why the British Virgin Islands are the world’s favorite charter-boat destination. The islands seem made for recreational sailing. They are within sight of each other and arranged roughly in a rectangle, with Drake’s Passage in the middle. Predictable trade winds blow in from the east, and there are sheltered harbors and coves on every island. This favorable geography allows cruisers to set zigzagging courses between islands, with crossings lasting hours rather than days. You can leave port late, stop for a bit of snorkeling and still arrive in the next port before happy hour.

Cost-Effective Cruising

Think charter yachts are only for the mega wealthy? Not true. Vessels-for- hire come in all shapes and sizes, from compact sloops to luxury yachts. When you add up the cost on a per-person basis, a boating vacation can compare favorable with a resort stay. At the lower end of the range, a 32-foot sailboat suitable for a couple or family of four can be chartered for $2,000 to $2,500 a week—though in reality you’ll want to add about half of that amount to cover provisions, moorage fees and other incidentals. At the other end of the spectrum, a 65-foot luxury catamaran with crew could command 10 times that sum. But when split between four couples, even that ultra-luxe option breaks down to less than $400 a day per person, and that includes water sports, top-shelf libations and onboard meals created by a personal chef.

Self-Guided or Self-Indulgent

Mid-day libations at Tortolla's Cane Garden Bay

Midday libations at Tortolla’s Cane Garden Bay. Photo: Pierce Hoover

There are two primary types of charter offered in the British Virgins. A crewed charter is like a limo ride: You just sit back and let a professional do the work. A bareboat charter puts you in command—but only if are a competent sailor or powerboat operator capable of navigating around the islands and attending to the various details of shipboard life. As an in- between, many charter companies will add a captain to a bareboat charter for an additional fee. This gives novices a chance to learn the ropes without running afoul of the rocks.

 

 

One Hull or Two?

One of the first decisions you’ll make when choosing a charter boat is whether you want to go with a single-hull vessel or opt for a twin-hulled catamaran. Each has its merits. Serious sailors usually opt for a more traditional monohull, as they enjoy the sensation of a well-tuned craft heeling to leeward as the trade winds urge it forward. Catamarans usually offer a more gentile and upright passage. There’s more deck space on a cat and usually a more spacious central salon with large windows. Sleeping cabins on a cat may be slightly smaller in boats under 50 feet, as they sit in narrower hulls. Catamarans also tend to command a higher charter price as compared to a monohull of similar crew capacity.

Sail Away or Power Up?

A power catamaran BVI

A power catamaran eliminates the work of sailing and allows cruisers to ply calm, lee-shore waters. Photo: Christian Wheatley / iStock

To a sailor, there are few things better than spending the day reaching and tacking about before discovering new ports of call. For those who tend to focus less on the journey and are more about the destination, there are powerboat charters. Motor boaters typically make faster crossings than their sailing brethren, and under power, it’s sometimes possible to plan routes along more sheltered lees shores to avoid wind and waves. But when you do hit a cross sea without the stabilizing effects of a sail, there may be more rolling and pitching. Fortunately, the power catamarans that prevail in the BVI rental fleets are less susceptible to motion than single-hull motorboats.

Anchors Away

Setting an anchor can be tricky, especially in a crowded harbor where dragging the hook or swinging into another boat could dampen a vacation cruise. In addition, the steady wear and tear of metal hooks and chains on fragile sea bottoms can wreck havoc on the underwater ecosystem. In the British Virgins, there’s an easier way to stop for the night. Mooring balls have been installed in most all of the major anchorages. All you need do is loop a bowline around one, pay a modest usage fee and relax, knowing there’s no danger of crashing into another boat or a lee shore.

Beat the Crowds

Setting your own cruising schedule allows you to visit all of the BVI’s most popular landfalls, including The Baths, Cane Garden Bay and White Sound. Even better, you can do it in a time frame that avoids the crowds that often descend on these sites when tour buses and shuttle boats arrive. Cane Garden may be congested midday, but come early or stay late and you will have it practically to yourself.

Travel Like Others Can’t

Local shopping excursion on Cooper Island

Local shopping excursion on Cooper Island. Photo: Pierce Hoover

Having your own aquatic means of transport opens up a whole realm of destinations that are difficult, or in some cases impossible, to reach by cruise ship, ferry or island taxi. It also allows you to pack more into your day. For example, you could cast off after breakfast in Cooper Island, beat the crowds to The Baths, tie up for lunch in Spanish Town, spend an afternoon snorkeling the Dogs, and then head to North Sound for dinner at the Bitter End.

 

Shore Leaves

One of the best parts of cruising the British Virgins is creating your own itinerary. That said, here are some of our favorite stops that should not be missed:

The Bight at Norma Island

Be sure to stop and snorkel the Indians on the way over, then arrive in time to snag a mooring ball in the sheltered eastern end of the bay. Take the dingy over to the cliffs that hide Bluebeard’s treasure cave, swim and swill on the beach at Pirate’s Bight, or leave your inhibitions behind and tie up to the Willie T., the harbor’s notorious floating tavern.

The Baths National Park

You’ve probably seen the pictures. Giant boulders strewn along a white-sand beach like a giant’s abandoned marbles. Come early and tie into one of the park’s day-use mooring buoys, and you’ll have the prime location for snorkeling and exploring the rock formations.

North Sound

The protected waters of Virgin Gorda’s North Sound are home to several great beachfront resorts and eateries. Tie in close to the Bitter End Yacht Club and spend the day beaching it at the Sandbox on Prickly Pear, snorkeling the front reefs or skimming the bay on a rented dinghy or windsurfer. Head to Saba Rock to cap off the evening.

White Bay

The most laid-back beach scene on Jost Van Dyke island is at White Bay. Whether it’s the ring game at the Soggy Dollar or the hammock at Ivan’s Stress-Free Bar, this is beach bumming at its best. Stay for the night and you can, as Jimmy Buffett once sang, “see the lights of St. Thomas 20 miles west.”

Anegada

If time and your charter contract allow, a trip to Anegada is a passage back in time. Low lying and sparely settled, this is the place to spend a day sunning and swimming on the east coast beach of Loblolly Bay before returning for one of the island’s famous barbecue lobster dinners.