Tag Archives: Caribbean

Santurce Market, Puerto Rico

Authentic Caribbean: Mercado Santurce, Puerto Rico

 

Open-air markets are ubiquitous in the Caribbean. Every town, seaside village and mountain hamlet plays host to this particular form of local commerce. Some are formal and permanent, while others are pop-ups that come and go on weekends, holidays or special occasions. The market in San Juan’s Santurce neighborhood has been a lasting fixture for decades, and remains the preferred spot for chefs and home cooks to buy fresh produce. It’s an easy drive from Condado and just 20 minutes from Old San Juan. Here, local farmers deliver fresh produce daily, and vendors set up displays in their personalized spaces decorated with family photos and keepsakes. In addition to fruit and vegetables, long-time vendors sell everything from hats to lace, wooden carvings, festival masks and leather goods, flowers, local remedies and prepared dishes. Many shoppers include breakfast or lunch in the outing, and spend hours socializing while making purchases. During the day, the place is humming with shoppers, but come evening the music starts and the crowds increase. On the weekends, the area known as La Placita buzzes with laughter as people drop in and out of bars and restaurants. Later in the evening when the music kicks, the dancing begins. Inside restaurants and bars and out on the patios, the plaza is packed with salsa dancers from the neighborhood and around San Juan.

Belize Snorkeling

Into The Blue: Best Snorkel Sites in Belize

 

Coral reefs make the best snorkel sites, and the small nation of Belize has corals aplenty. Just off the country’s Caribbean coast lies one of the world longest barrier reefs, stretching north to south for more than 190 miles. Scattered along its length are dozens of small, scenic islands known as cayes, which provide ideal starting points for snorkeling excursions, as well as a trio of offshore coral atolls—the only ones in the Caribbean. With the arrival of cruise ships in recent years, it’s possible to enjoy a Belize snorkeling adventure while in port for the day. But many of the best sites are available only to those who stay in country a bit longer, booking into a base camp at one of the beachside resorts or small lodges scattered throughout the cayes. Here are some of our favorite sites to discover the best snorkeling in Belize.

Coral Reef in Belize, best snorkel sites in belize

The reefs of Belize are covered in a mix of hard and soft corals. Shallow reefs offer the most vibrancy, as more sunlight penetrates the water to reveal the true colors of the reef. Photo: iStock

Ambergris Caye

Ambergris Caye is home to some of Belize’s most popular snorkeling sites. This largest and most northerly of the cayes is less affected by turbid outflow from mainland rivers, resulting consistently clear waters. In addition, reefs run closer to shore here, allowing for shorter boat rides to prime sites. It’s possible to snorkel right from the beach at select resorts along Ambergris’ eastern shore, but the underwater terrain is often sea grass beds with only the occasional coral head. These nearshore sites can be rewarding for those who enjoy critter spotting among the grass and coral rubble, but the actual reef line typically lies beyond easy swimming distance. The best sites are reached by boat, and are located within the Hol Chan Marine Reserve. Lying some four miles south of the town of San Pedro, this underwater national park teems with fish life, especially at sites such as The Cut, where you are likely to see large grouper, barracuda and schooling jacks. The most famous destination in the park is Shark Ray Alley, which is a shallow, sand bottomed area where nurse sharks and stingrays gather. Neither of these species poses a threat to snorkelers, and most visitors are thrilled to find themselves immersed in a swirling mass of marine life. Other favorite sites near San Pedro include Mexico Rocks, which is a series of shallow patch reefs located north of town, and well-sheltered from ocean swells. Fish watchers will also enjoy Tres Cocos, where impressive stands of elkhorn coral attract a wide range of colorful tropical fish. There are a number of charter boat operators based in San Pedro, and finding a ride to the site of your choice is never a problem. 

Belize Ambergris Caye Sharks

Nurse sharks congregate in the waters of Hol Chan Marine Reserve at a site known as Shark Ray Alley. Here, snorkelers can enter the water safely to interact with the schooling fish. Photo: iStock

 

The Atolls

In addition to an expansive barrier reef, Belize is also home to the only true coral atolls in the Caribbean. Sitting 25 to 50 miles off the mainland, these coral-ringed plateaus offer acres of protected shallow water ideal for snorkelers. Turneffe Atoll lies closest to the coast, and is the easiest to reach by boat from the mainland or the northern cayes. Dotted with hundreds of mangrove islands, Turneffe is best known as a flats fishing mecca, but it is also an excellent snorkeling destination, as there are acres of shallow coral gardens washed by clear oceanic water. Sites can be reached during a day trip from Belize City or San Pedro, and there are also several small lodges tucked among the islets that cater to fishermen, but also welcome scuba divers and snorkelers. Some 20 miles farther to sea is Lighthouse Reef Atoll, home to the famous Blue Hole. Reaching this site will require a long boat ride across open water, which may not be for everyone. Once there, however, you can don mask and snorkel to hover on the precipitous edges of this famous geological formation, which is ringed by shallow coral reefs. Trips to Lighthouse will usually include a second stop at Half Moon Caye, a bird sanctuary which combines a shallow snorkel site with the chance to see rare red-footed boobies and other sea birds. Farther to the south, Glovers Reef Atoll provides an expansive shallow playground for snorkelers, with more than 700 patch reefs lying in shallow water within a protective coral ring. Several small resorts perch on tiny islands within the atoll, and day trips from the coastal town of Dangriga provide access for day trips. 

Blue Hole Belize

The Blue Hole is one of Belize’s best-known landmarks. Essentially a giant underwater sinkhole, it is located within Lighthouse Reef Atoll, which sits 50 miles east of the mainland. Photo: iStock

The Southern Cayes

Belize’s southern cayes are smaller and less settled – some no more than a few acres of sand with a mattering of palms and perhaps a single Robinson Crusoe-style dwelling. The best snorkel sites are located farther from shore, as river water can cloud nearshore sites. For many years, the premier destination in this area has been Rendezvous Caye. Now owned by a cruise line, it is a small spit of sand fitted with the comforts of civilizations such as bath houses and cold drinks—well suited to casual snorkelers seeking a day at the beach, but somewhat less so for those looking for a more solitary in-water experience. To escape the crowds, you can book a small boat tour originating in the coastal towns of Placencia or Dangriga. As an alternative to Rendezvous Caye, guides may drop you at nearby Colson Cay, but the area’s best coral and fish life are found at the Gladden Cays, where extensive arrays of corals and sponges line the shallows inside the reef, and the nearby Gladden Spit creates a gateway for larger fish to move between lagoon and open ocean. This coastline is also home to a number of small resorts and eco lodges, each offering an opportunity to snorkel right from the dock, or to discover surrounding reefs with a short boat ride. Among our favorites are Thatch Caye, Coco Plum and the Fantasy Island Eco Resort.

Belize Caye Marine Reserve Island

Belize’s southern coastline is dotted by hundreds of sandbars and tiny islands known as cayes. This idyllic island lodge lies within the South Water Cay Marine Reserve. Photo: Simon Dannhauer/iStock

Angelitos Pig in Puerto Rico

La Ruta del Lechón’s Pork Perfection

 

For an authentic taste of Puerto Rico, it doesn’t get any better than lechon asado. This savoy favorite begins with a whole pig that is fired-roasted to create a crispy outer skin that keeps the meat inside succulent and tender. It’s a favorite all over the island, but as local will tell you, there’s one particular area that draws lechón lovers in droves.

Guavate Rancho Puerto Rico

After hours of slow roasting lechón asado is carved into chunks and ready to be served at El Rancho Original. The results are a crispy outer skin and a juicy interior. Photo: Debbie Snow

If your pork pilgrimage begins in San Juan, you’ll want to escape the city on Highway 18, then continue on Route 52 into the mountains and through the town of Caguas. Keep going a couple more miles to hang a left on PR-184, 18, AKA “La Ruta del Lechón” (Pork Route). This winding secondary road carries you into the Sierra de Cayey Mountains, and the village of Cayey. Just when you think you’ve gone too far, a slightly ramshackle restaurant appears just off the road. If the car windows are down, the tantalizing aroma of slow-smoked meat will tempt you to apply the brakes. But you have options, as this is just the first in a line of lechóneras. Traffic slows as drivers jockey for parking spaces, and pedestrians mill about in a carnival-like atmosphere. It’s a gathering that takes place each weekend, with friends and family converging on their favorite dining stop, where they linger over heaping platters of roasted meat, washed down with a cold cerveza. And the feast isn’t just for the locals.

182-PR-Angelito's-Pig

The savory flavors and unique textures of lechon asado are created by spit roasting a whole pig over an open fire. Junior Rivera of Angelito’s uses natural wood for coals. Photo: Debbie Snow

As word of Ruta del Lechón spread, a growing number of island visitors now join in the fun and feasting. Try to arrive midday, as most of the kitchens close by early evening, and you’ll want to have time to savor not only the food, but also the live music, dancing and camaraderie that are as much a part of this gathering as is the pig itself.

El Rancho Original

There’s no doubt that this is one of the favorite stops along the Ruta del Lechón, as it’s hard to find a parking spot out front and there’s always a line inside waiting to place an order. The restaurant has a park-like ambience where the building resembles a wooden tree house. The dining area is scattered about with large wooden picnic tables, some inside under cover, others out in the lawn and a few near the slow flowing brook. Painted signs with cartoon-like pigs dressed in aprons are posted throughout the grounds; some attached to trees others hanging over entrances. Patrons pass by the glass window and order cafeteria style. Most order the roasted pork with rice and pigeon peas, morcillas (blood sausage), yucca and a cold Medalla beer.

Guavate Rancho Pig, Puerto Rico

An order at El Rancho Original is usually accompanied by a side of arroz con gandules (pigeon peas and rice). A selection of hot sauces are available to spice it up according to tastes. Photo: Debbie Snow

Angelito’s Place

If you can’t make it to the mountains for the weekend pig roast, you can enjoy the same flavors closer to San Juan in the Trujillo district. At Angelito’s Place, owner Junior Rivera has been roasting pig for 25 years, and garnering accolades from lechón connoisseurs for almost as long. His secret to the smokey flavor is in the coals, which according to Junior Rivera must be natural wood. He insists the succulent taste of the pork comes from the pigs’ diet, which consists of rice and beans. While some may choose to dine inside, most patrons head to outdoor tables carrying plates filled with of mounds of glistening pork. After the pig is carved up, its weighed and served with a variety of sides. At Anglelito’s an assortment of starches served include the mainstay, arroz con gandules (pigeon peas and rice), along with white sweet potatoes, pasteles, plantains and cuerito—the brittle, seared pork skin. Angelito’s Place consistently wins top billing and deserves the moniker “El Rey de Lechón Asado”—the king of roasted pork.

Angelitos Puerto Rico Food

Plates of succulent pork along with cuerito, the brittle hard skin, and the basics of arroz con ganules mound a plate served at Angelito’s. Photo: Debbie Snow

Trinidad Maracas Beach

Caribbean Snap Shots: Maracas Bay Beach, Trinidad

 

The island of Trinidad is best known as the home of the world- famous Carnival, with its lavish street parades, calypso music and all-night parties that pack the streets with local and visiting revelers. But this southern most of the Caribbean island also boasts some fine beaches. Visitors looking to add a bit of sight seeing and a swim to their visit can escape Port of Spain and follow the North Coast Road over a jungle-clad mountain range to discover a perfect crescent-shaped bay ringed in golden sand, and backed by towering palms set against dramatic rainforest cliffs. This is Maracas Bay Beach. Located on the island’s north coast, this stretch of shoreline receives enough wave action to attract paddlers, surfers and boogie boarders to the outer reaches of the bay, while the warm sands and calmer inshore waters welcome the less ambitious, who come only to relax. Maracas is by far the island’s most popular beach, and visitors and locals come to spend the day. There is a lifeguard on duty during peak hours and nearby options for libations or lunching on the local favorite: bake-and- shark, which is a fried flatbread filled with seasoned shark meat and lettuce or coleslaw. Richard’s Bake and Shark gets top marks, and provides an array of hot sauces for the adventurous, but it is by no means the only lunch spot worth checking out.

USVI Maho Bay

Caribbean Snap Shots: Maho Bay, St. John, USVI

 

You could spend a month going to a different beach every day on the island of St. John, as there are over 50 bays, coves and sandy stretches of coastline to choose from. But if you only have a day, and want to park your beach umbrella on a strand that offers easy access, calm water and great scenery, you need look no farther than Maho Bay. Located on the island’s north shore, and fully protected from easterly trade winds and swells by a protruding headland, Maho is a favorite with locals and visitors alike. Access is easy, as there is parking along North Shore Road, with the beach just steps away. As a result, you may want to arrive early on weekends to secure a prime spot. If your ambitions run beyond sunning and napping, you can don mask and snorkel to explore the coral reefs that fringe the outer edges of the bay, or glide over the sea grass in the center to discover grazing green turtles. Mornings and evenings are the best time for a sighting.

Barbados, Harrismith Beach

Caribbean Snap Shots: Harrismith Beach, Barbados

 

A surf washed strand flanked by headlands; trade winds caressing overhanging palms; and soft white sand awaiting a beach towel. On Barbados, sun worshipers flock to popular Bottom Bay on the island’s east coast to enjoy this idyllic scenario. But if you are looking for a bit more privacy, you can find it just to the south. Beyond a projecting headland lies quiet and less-visited Harrismith Beach, sometimes called Harry Smith. You’ll know you have arrived when you see the ruins of Harrismith Hotel, a former great house that perches on a cliff overlooking the rough and turbulent Atlantic Ocean, its former glory now a shell of tumbled stones and crumbling concrete. Today, visitors find their way down to the beach via the remnants of the stone steps once used by hotel guests.

Swimming is not recommended although you might see a few people wading in the shallow pools between the rocks when the tide is low. These lagoons are protected by the reef and make a good spot for a salt-water dip. Most who find their way here are content to sit back, breath in the cool Atlantic breezes and watch the waves crash along the shoreline. Bring a beach towel, drinks and snacks and spend the afternoon enjoying the surf and the solitude.

Pink Sand Beach in Bermuda

Best Pink Beaches in the Caribbean

 

Some of the Caribbean’s big draws are the beaches. They come in all colors from sugary white sand to glistening pewter and even slate black. But perhaps closest to our heart are the pink strands, often romantic and always breathtaking, in particular when the soft morning light hits the rosy granules. So, make sure you drag yourself out of bed early if you are lucky enough to be staying near one of these pink delights.

Bermuda: South Shore Beaches

While pink sand beaches and pink hotels seem to be synonymous with Bermuda, not all sandy strands on Bermuda are cast in pastel, as there is an occasional creamy white sand beach. But for the most part, the famed south shore is marked by cotton candy swirls of pink sands made from red foram, a tiny marine organism. The animal lives on the undersides of rocks and has a red skeleton. When it dies it mixes with bits of coral and broken shells, giving the sands their signature pink hues.

The Bermuda South Shore Park is an impressive stretch of coast lined with beaches. There you’ll find grassy areas for picnics along the roadside, rolling dunes and plenty of dramatic rock formations. Each beach seems to have a private cove that’s sheltered from ocean swells, and perfect for splashing around. Between Warwick Parish and Southampton Parish you’ll find a selection of pink beaches like Jobson’s Cove, Warwick Long Bay and the most well-known and popular stretch: Horseshoe Bay. Head to Church Bay at the far end and grab a mask and snorkel or West Whale Bay where you might see humpback whales migrating north to their summer feeding grounds during the spring.

Where to stay: Perched on a hilltop with the sea off in the distance is the Fairmont Southampton, a soup-to-nuts resort with golf, spa and a beachside watersports center. Their jitney takes guests on a one-minute ride to and from the beach.

Bermuda Horseshoe Beach

Horseshoe Beach is the most popular beach on the south shore of Bermuda. Summer months may bring crowds but there is always a stretch of beach to call your own. Photo: iStock

Barbados: Crane Beach

The combination of turquoise blue waters, pink sands and feathering palms, all set against a backdrop of dramatic cliffs, certainly makes Crane’s Beach a striking postcard image. You might think that this splendid stretch of beach was named for a long-necked bird. But in reality, the crane in question was a tall, gantry-like metal hoist that once sat cliffside, and was used to unload ships. The site is no longer a cargo port, and is instead touted as one of the 10 best beaches in the world by the Lifestyles of the Rich and Famous. It has also served as a backdrop for hundreds of wedding photos.

Seas are occasional calm enough for casual swims, but more often the waves that strike the island’s exposed eastern coast create currents and a strong shore break. That’s when surfers head out and boogie boarders are seen lining up. For the mere spectator there are soft sands, a coral reef offshore and swimming in more protected areas. Guests of the namesake cliffside resort can descend 100 steps or hop a ride in the glass-front elevator to the sands, where staff is on hand to set up umbrellas and chairs. Sundays are popular with both locals and visitors, as the resort’s sea view restaurant, L’Azure, hosts a Bajan buffet with live gospel music.

Where to stay: The only resort on the island’s southeast coast just happens to be the oldest resort on the Barbados. The Crane has a botanical garden setting and sits anchored on a cliff overlooking the sea. Book a room with a plunge pool on your balcony for the ultimate experience.

Barbados Crane Beach

Swimmers and boogie boarders take advantage of small waves at picturesque Crane Beach on Barbados. Photo: iStock

Bahamas Out Island-Harbour Island

Harbour Island measures just three miles in length, and most of its eastern shore is blessed with a pink sand beach so soft it pours like flour, and shimmers in hues from subtle blush to salmon. The sands are protected by a coral reef that runs the length of the beach and is just a five-minute swim from shore. Here, in canyons of Elkhorn coral you may see a Ridley sea turtle, bottlenose dolphin or even a small shark. Beachside strolls are a daily delight, and in late afternoon you may encounter horses and riders wading into the shore break.

Harbour Island is a favorite with celebrities, and many pass through with little notice, grateful for a respite or hideout from the paparazzi. The island’s slow-paced, low-key lifestyle is treasured by visitors who instantly become part of the community. Walking is a favorite form of conveyance, and golf carts are more common then cars. The local equivalent of restaurant row is Bay Street, where fishing boats bob in the harbor and roadside vendors with small roadside food stands offer up conch fritters, conch salad and fried fish, all pulled fresh from the sea just hours before.

Where to stay: Pink Sands is the definitive experience on Harbour Island, a boutique property with lush gardens and a bird sanctuary. Rooms are set back off the beach but close enough to follow a private path down to the pink sands.

Bahamas Harbour Island Pink Sand Beach

Gentle waves wash the pristine pink shores of Harbour Island, one of many treasured gems in the 700 islands of the Bahamas. Photo: Shane Gross/iStock

 

 

Bahamas, Exumas

Bahamas Wade-In Snorkel Beaches

 

With hundreds of miles of reefs, rocks and beaches scattered across some 700 islands, there’s no shortage of great snorkel sites in the Bahamas. Some are remote and difficult to reach; others will require a boat ride. But there are also a number of prime fish watching venues that lie just off popular beaches, and within close proximity to a waterfront resort. Here are five of our favorite island destinations where you can go right from the sand to the reef.

Love Beach, New Providence Island

The best place for nearshore snorkeling on the island of New Providence isn’t from the resorts at Cable Beach or Paradise Island, but instead can be found a few miles to the west at Love Beach. Getting there is easy by either public bus or rental car, but you’ll have to know the local ropes to gain access to the water, as this beach is flanked primarily by private homes. Guests of Compass Point Beach Resort have walk-on proximity, while day- trippers can pay a modest fee at nearby Nirvana Beach Club to gain entry, and enjoy changing facilities. From either starting point, the best area for snorkeling is toward the western end of the beach, where coral-covered rock ledges run closer to shore. Blue tangs and yellow-and-blue striped grunts hover in the shadows of overhangs, while the more gregarious yellowtail snapper will often approach. The sandy patches between the rocks hold conch and starfish, and keen-eyed snorkelers may spot the antenna of a spiny lobster hiding deep in a crevice.

Deadman’s Reef, Grand Bahama Island

Come for the day, or book a stay. Either option places you next to Grand Bahama’s favorite snorkeling destination: Deadman’s Reef. The reef lies just offshore of Paradise Cove Beach Resort, which is a 15-minute drive west of Freeport. The resort sits on an otherwise deserted stretch of beach, and in addition to snorkeling, offers a range of day-at-the-beach diversions for both the active and the just relaxing. Right from the sand, snorkelers wade into clear water that is usually calm, and swim less than 100 feet to the start of the reef. Usual sightings include angelfish, barracuda, colorful parrotfish and rays, plus the chance of a sea turtle. To add an extra element to the swim, you can rent a motorized sea scooter that will propel you along the reefs like James Bond.

Small Hope Bay, Andros

Andros is the largest and wildest island in the Bahamas, and home to some of the island nation’s most diverse diving and snorkeling adventures. Some take place from boats, but others await right off the beach. A long-time favorite starting point, and one of the island’s few full-service resorts, is Small Hope Bay Lodge. Snorkel adventures begin right at the resort beach, where guests can wade in to discover schools of tropical fish holding in the shadows of the resort dock. A bit farther out, a series of patch reefs provide hours of exploration. For a truly unique snorkeling adventure, sign up for a half-day inland trip to a pair of freshwater blue holes that includes a walking tour of forests where medicinal plants and more than 50 varieties of orchids thrive.

Pink Sands Beach, Harbour Island

Harbour Island’s famous pink beach is among the prettiest in the Bahamas, and just offshore lie some equally enchanting coral grottoes. Because this beach faces the open Atlantic, conditions aren’t always favorable for snorkeling. But when the surf is down, those willing to fin their way 50 to 100 yards from shore will encounter a maze of coral heads cut by deep channels, tunnels and hidden grottoes. Fish flit in and out of hidden recesses, while sunlight dapples groves of Elkhorn coral. It’s a magical scene, whether you remain on the surface, or dip down into one of the recesses for a closer look. For immediate access to the beach, you can stay at the top- rated Pink Sands Resort, which perches on a bluff overlooking the beach, and is just a short stroll away from the Dunmore Town waterfront.

Harbour Island Snorkeling, Bahamas Out Islands

The east coast of Harbour Island is flanked by an expansive fringing reef offering numerous swim-throughs and coral grottoes. These sites are best visited when seas are calm. Photo: Shane Gross/iStock

Stocking Island, Great Exuma

There are several spots along the shores of Great Exuma Island where reefs come close to shore. Some of the best are on the east side of Stocking Island, which is either a short ferry ride away from George Town, or a few steps from the front porch of cottages such as the Kevalli House. The eastern shores of the island are punctuated by caverns and caves that delve into the underlying limestone strata of the shoreline. Just offshore, coral gardens rise from depths of ten feet or less, providing shelter for a variety of colorful tropical fish. Another good right-from-the-beach option a few miles to the north is Three Sisters Beach, so named for the trio of rock outcroppings that lie within swimming distance of the shore. The Exuma Palms Hotel is the place to stay at Three Sisters. As compared to some of the newer, high-end resorts that have sprung up mid island, it’s smaller and reminiscent of a simpler time, offering clean, comfortable accommodations at a reasonable rate, with a first class restaurant, a magnificent beachfront location and a range of available water sports.

 

Caribbean Cascades: Gozalandia Falls, Puerto Rico

 

Getting to this once secret site is easier than ever Most call it Gozalandia Falls, but you may also hear this cataract referred to as Las Cataratas, El Roble Waterfall or Charco de la Leche. By any name, it’s one of Puerto Rico’s favorite “secret” sites. Getting there will begin with a drive along the island’s twisting back roads to the town of San Sebastian, which is about a two hour drive west of San Juan, or a half hour from the west coast town of Aguadilla. Finding the pathway leading to the falls is not as difficult as in years past, as an adjacent landowner now provides roadside parking at the trailhead for a modest fee. Also easier is the actual route to the falls, which once required trial blazing on a series of unofficial dirt and mud paths that meandered through the woods and down to the stream, sometimes requiring a bit of climbing and a lot of careful footwork on slippery slopes. The growing popularity of this site has lead to the development and maintenance of a more formal trail, but getting to the water will still require about 15 minutes of trekking. There are actually two falls, an upper that is somewhat less visited, and the lower, which is the larger of the two, and quite popular with locals on the weekends. Both flow into pools that are suitable for swimming, and deep enough to dive off nearby rocks. Rumor has it that there are plans afoot to develop an eco resort adjacent to the falls, but for now, they remain one of the island’s more rewarding and rustic natural attractions.

Guadeloupe-La-Cascade-Aux

Caribbean Cascades: La Cascade aux Ecrevisses, Guadeloupe

 

You won’t have to lace up the hiking boots to discover Guadeloupe’s favorite waterfall. There is about ten minutes of walking required from a parking area along Route D23, but you’ll follow a well-maintained walkway that’s flip-flop friendly, and once there you’ll find viewing platforms and park-like facilities at the base of the falls. Pull out your French-to-English dictionary and you’ll soon figure out that the lilting title of La Cascade aux Ecrevisses sounds more enticing that the Anglo equivalent: Crawfish Falls. Regardless of the name, the clear pool at the base of the falls provides an opportunity for a cooling dip, or you can simply wade into the steam below and perhaps encounter a few of the waterway’s namesake freshwater crustaceans. The falls are a popular stop on the scenic drive known as Route de la Traversée, which crosses the mountains of Basse-Terre and enters Guadeloupe National Park. The picnic area and pool often fill with local families on the weekends, and on days when mid-day bus tours from the cruise ships pause to disgorge their passengers. Visit at other times, however, and you might just have the basin to yourself.