Tag Archives: Caribbean

Caribbean, Play, Trip Ideas, U.S. Virgin Islands

Best Snorkel Resorts in St. Thomas

December 2, 2015

Clear tropical waters beg for exploration with mask and snorkel. Sure, you could sign up for a boat trip, but at these favorite St. Thomas beach resorts, immersing yourself in a world of Technicolor reefs and tropical fish is as easy as wading in.

Sapphire Beach Resort

This condominium resort is located directly on one of the island’s best white-sand beaches, with a coral reef that’s just a short swim from shore. Here, clear waters showcase an underwater landscape filled with tropical fish, stingrays and conch. More adventurous snorkelers can continue out to explore the rocky shoals surrounding Pretty Klip point, or search the bay’s sea grass beds for turtles. The on-site water sports center can provide snorkel equipment and advice, or arrange boat excursions to more distant snorkeling sites.

Guests at the Sapphire Beach Resort enjoy easy access to one of the best snorkeling beaches in the Virgin Islands. Photo: Christian Wheatley/iStock

The resort’s home-style accommodations include private balconies, and full kitchens with large living areas. All units have air conditioning, safes, cable TV, ceiling fans and phones. Sapphire Beach Resort is just outside the town of Red Hook, which is the jumping off point for ferry service to St. John and the British Virgin Islands.

Secret Harbour Beach Resort

The west-facing beach at Secret Harbour provides a cove sheltered from trade wind swells. As a result, the calm waters just off the palm-shrouded beach are ideal for youngsters and those new to snorkeling, as well as activities such as standup paddle boarding. For more fish life, guests can fin out to the rocks beyond the right-hand end of the beach, where parrotfish glide through a submerged boulder field.

The protected cove at Secret Harbour Beach Resort is an ideal place for children and novices to hone their snorkeling skills. Secret Harbour

The property blends the comforts of spacious condominium accommodations with a full range of resort amenities that includes a water sports center, spa, tennis and fitness centers, full-time concierge service and two on-site restaurants. Each studio, one or two-bedroom unit incorporates ocean-view patios or balconies, indoor/outdoor dining and a fully equipped kitchen.

Dreams Sugar Bay

One of St. Thomas’ favorite resorts is now part of the Dreams family of all- inclusive properties. Here, a collection of luxury rooms and suites are perched on a bluff overlooking the emerald and sapphire shallows of Water Bay. Guests can see snorkeling reefs from balconies, and it’s a short walk down to the private beach, where snorkelers are greeted by gregarious tropical fish such as yellowtail snapper. A short swim towards the right side of the bay leads to rock piles that host a collection of corals and sea fans where parrotfish, blue tangs and trumpet fish lurk.

Guests at Dreams Sugar Beach enjoy fantastic water views. A private beach provides snorkelers with easy access to a lively coral reef. Photo: Dreams

Dreams is a family-friendly property offering a wide range of activities for all age ranges, seven on-site restaurants, nightly entertainment and numerous additional all-inclusive amenities.

Bolongo Bay Beach Resort

With beachside hammocks strung between palm trees, all just steps from your room, you might be tempted to remain ashore and just chill. But the waters of Bolongo Bay are certainly worth viewing through mask and snorkel, and one need not swim far from shore to start seeing fish. The entire bay is sheltered from north and east swells, and the right of the Bay is especially calm, and features a collection of boulders that attracts a variety of marine life.

Bolongo Bay overlooks a calm bay that is ideal for a wide range of water sports. The best snorkeling is just a short swim from the beach. Photo: Bolongo Bay

This family-owned resort was the island’s original all-inclusive property, and it has remained a favorite for four decades. In addition to snorkeling, guests have access to standup paddleboards, kayaks and other water sports equipment, along with daily snorkel and dive excursions to area sites. The resort includes three pools, three on-site restaurants, a lively beach bar and some of the island’s best live entertainment.

Caribbean, Play, Trip Ideas, U.S. Virgin Islands

St John’s Sunny South Coast Hikes

December 2, 2015

Leave a comment

On an island where hiking through cool, shaded forests abound, St. John’s Salt Pond offers something very different. Located on the island’s sunbaked south coast, where rock bluffs and scrub dominate the landscape, this peninsula can only be reached by hiking trails, making it an ideal getaway for anyone seeking a bit of solitude.

Salt Pond Bay

The trail begins at the Salt Pond Bay parking lot, a 15-minute drive from Coral Bay. A short five-minute walk down a relatively steep dirt trail and you’re at beautiful Salt Pond Bay, where the often-calm waters offer excellent snorkeling. You could set up camp and spend the day sunning and swimming, but if you want to stretch your legs first and take in some scenic vistas, keep walking to the south end of the beach. As the sand starts to give way to a trail of dirt and rocks, you’ll find a National Park sign that points the way to a pair of hiking trails.

Your hike begins here, at the protected beach of Salt Pond on St. John’s sunny southern coastline. Photo: Andrea Milam

Ram Head Trail

The first portion of this trail winds gently up and down through a cactus forest, eventually ascending to about 100 feet above sea level, with big, open-ocean views. Birds provide the soundtrack, while Turks head cacti offer up their brilliant pink fruit to those who know where to find them. About 20 minutes into the hike, you’ll descend back to sea level to cross a unique blue cobblestone beach. Once you’re back on the trail, you’ll quickly ascend toward a cut in the hillside, which is the trail’s peak.

The Ram Head Trail begins in a thorn bush and cacti forest, and then climbs to a ridge that provides sweeping water views. Photo: Andrea Milam

As you rise in elevation to approximately 200 feet above sea level, the hillside below you is littered with hundreds of Turks head cacti, standing at attention like soldiers guarding one of Mother Nature’s prized creations. Approaching the crevasse in the hill, you’ll get an initial glimpse of the wild open ocean below, and with it, the sense you’re about to witness something amazing. And then, it hits you — the wind, that is. Just when the sweat is really starting to pour, and the sun’s rays are really starting to punish, Ram Head provides deliverance in the form of all-natural air conditioning, as cool sea breezes whip up through the crevasse.

To reach the top of the Ram Head peninsula you’ll cross narrow paths and a stone beach. Photo: Andrea Milam

Drunk Bay

The trail to Drunk Bay provides an easier alternative to the Ram Head hike. The beginning of this route is also located at Salt Pond’s south end. On this third of a mile-long trail, you’ll skirt the large salt pond that gives the bay its name and arrive after a short five-minute walk at wild, windswept Drunk Bay. This rocky beach is littered with coral fragments and all kinds of interesting flotsam and jetsam, which beach-goers use to create sculptures of people, gravity-defying formations, and messages. Tap your creativity to leave your own mark on the beach before heading back for Salt Pond. Swim, relax, and enjoy the water as you summon up the energy to walk back to the parking lot with a well- earned sense of accomplishment.

The beach at Drunk Bay is lined with rugged coral and stone waiting to be made into a beach sculpture. Photo: Andrea Milam

Bahamas-Out Islands, Belize, Bonaire, Caribbean, Central America, Jamaica, Play, Trip Ideas, Turks & Caicos

5 Unexpected Caribbean Animal Encounters

November 24, 2015

Leave a comment

For a different kind of vacation adventure, ditch the shopping and sightseeing tours and get to know some of the Caribbean’s finned and hoofed creatures, up close and personal. Here are five of our favorite animal encounters that take place in the wild, but don’t involve risk.

Camel Safaris, Jamaica

Horseback tours are available on many islands across the Caribbean, but Jamaica is the only place where you can ride a camel through the grounds of a former sugarcane plantation. Alexey Furman/iStock

Camels were brought to Jamaica in the 1800s to work the sugar cane plantations. Today, their descendants carry visitors on riding tours of historic Prospect Plantation. Located just outside of Ocho Rios, this thousand-acre property is one of Jamaica’s oldest plantations, growing bananas, cassava, sugarcane and coffee. In addition to camel rides through fields and groves of native hardwoods, visitors can participate in a diverse range of adventure tours and cultural activities.

Stingray Encounters, Turks & Caicos

Near the island of Grand Turk, the shallow waters of Gibbs Cay are home to a school of stingrays. Swimmers and waders can safely interact with these animals, and no dive gear is needed. Photo:iStock

Grand Cayman may be the home of the original Stingray City, but many prefer the experience at Gibb’s Cay. Located a mile off the coast of Grand Turk Island, this deserted cay is reached by boat, and participants wade into the shallows to interact with a school of resident rays that can be approached safely, making this an encounter that is suitable for all ages. In addition, a colorful, fish-filled reef is just yards from the beach.

Swimming With Pigs, Bahamas

On a small deserted island in the central Bahamas, an easy boat ride away from Great Exuma, a family of wild pigs frolic in the shallows, and swim out to greet arriving beach goers. Photo: iStock

The swimming pigs of the Bahamas have become You-Tube celebrities. To see them for yourself, join one of the small boat excursions traveling from Great Exuma Island or Staniel Cay to uninhabited Great Major Cay. Here, you will be greeted by a family of porkers who splash into the water to greet arriving boats, hopeful of receiving tasty handouts. Bring a waterproof camera for some of the most amusing selfies ever.

Swarmed by Donkeys, Bonaire

The feral descendants of domestic animals imported to the island as beasts of burden, Bonaire’s donkeys find refuge in a sanctuary, where visitors can hand-feed these gregarious creatures. Photo: iStock

When tractors replaced donkeys on the island of Bonaire, thousands of these beasts of burden were turned loose to fend for themselves. Today, more that 400 of their descendants reside at the island’s Donkey Sanctuary. Located just south of the airport, the sanctuary welcomes visitors, who can purchase feed and take a drive through the reserve. Roll down a window and you will be swarmed by gregarious donkeys vying for a treat.

Nuzzling with Nurse Sharks, Belize

Originally drawn in by fishermen cleaning their catch, the nurse sharks of Belize’s Hol Chan Marine Reserve now swarm snorkelers, creating an exciting yet safe encounter. Photo: Pete Niesen/iStock

Scuba divers can get up close with sharks at a number of adrenaline-filled shark feeding adventures throughout the Caribbean. For a milder encounter, head to Belize’s Hol Chan Marine Reserve, where a spot known as Shark-Ray Alley is home to a resident population of nurse sharks. Unlike their toothier cousins, nurse sharks are fairly mild-mannered, and will swarm among snorkels and swimmers as they jostle about in search of the handouts that tour operators drop overboard as enticements.

Caribbean, Central America, Costa Rica, Jamaica, St. Lucia

The Caribbean’s Best Aerial Adventures

November 24, 2015

Leave a comment

The jungle-clad highlands that rise above Caribbean coastlines provide a memorable alternative to water time, immersing visitors in rainforest realms where birdcalls and butterflies replace the sound of lapping waves. At select destinations, a visit to these green havens need not require hiking boots and a map, and instead involve high-flying activities that include both calming nature tours and adrenaline-filled aerial action.

Soaring Over St. Lucia

Tram passengers are treated to a bird’s eye view of St. Lucia’s upland forests as they glide above the treetops, and then enter the forest canopy for a look at life among the limbs. Photo: Chris Huxley/St. Lucia Tourist Board

Discover St. Lucia’s forest reserve by boarding a cable tramway that carries open-air gondolas on a soaring flight through the rainforest canopy. The Aerial Tram and Canopy Tour from Rainforest Adventures carries passengers past towering chatannier and gommier trees, and through groves of giant ferns and resplendent heliconia. Onboard guides identify the calls and plumage of the resident birdlife, and tell of oddities such as the strangler ficus. In addition to this 74-minute aerial tour, visitors to the reserve can hike the Fern Nature Trail, and the more adventurous can take flight on a series of zip lines that weave through the forest canopy.

Costa Rica, Like a Bird

An aerial tramway carries passengers into the heart of Costa Rica’s forest canopy for a first-hand look at a unique ecosystem that is not visible to land- bound observers. Photo: Compflight

A short drive from the capital of San Jose, Rainforest Adventures Costa Rica offers exclusive access to a 1,200-acre private ecological reserve bordering the Braulio Carrillo National Park. This region of Costa Rica is a favorite with bird watchers, who can discover more than 800 species. Aerial tram rides, suitable for all ages are a centerpiece of the experience, while an extensive network of zip lines is also available. Guests wanting a longer visit can book a room at the on-site Rainforest Lodge, discover a night sky filled with stars, and fall asleep to the sounds of the rainforest.

High in Jamaica

Leave the snow skis behind when riding the chair lift at Jamaica’s Mystic Mountain Park, but bring a camera to capture sweeping views of the island and nearby Dunns River. Photo: Compflight

Somehow, it’s not surprising that the only Caribbean nation to muster a bobsled team is also home to a ski-slope style chair lift. The Rainforest Sky Explorer carries passengers up 700 feet above the Jamaican rainforest at Mystic Mountain Park, providing magnificent views of nearby Dunn’s River Falls along the way. After taking in the views from the elevated slopes, and relaxing in the butterfly and hummingbird gardens, visitors can up the excitement quota with zip lines, waterslides and the only bobsled ride in the tropics. The park, which is rated as one of Jamaica’s best eco-adventures, is located just outside of Ocho Rios.

Aruba, Bonaire, Caribbean, Curacao, Plan, Trip Ideas

Fall Getaways in the Caribbean

October 27, 2015

Leave a comment

The Caribbean hurricane season is winding down, but why chance it. In the ABC islands there’s never a concern for tropical storms. This trio of Dutch islands—Aruba, Bonaire and Curacao—lie well south of the hurricane belt. Here, arid landscapes guarantee plenty of sunshine and warm, clear waters, and the culture is an inquiring mixture of Dutch, Spanish and African influences. By mid winter, beachfront hotel rooms will be at a premium, but in the days before thanksgiving, there are bargains to be had.

Aruba

If sun and sand are your number one priority, you can’t do much better than Aruba. Long expanses of beach and secluded coves ring the island, but the action centers on the island’s northwest coast and the two-mile expanse that includes Palm Beach. This stretch of powder-fine white sand caters to everyone from laid- back sun seekers to adrenaline junkies on overdrive. Here, you’ll find every kind of water sports from mild to wild. Take a paddleboard yoga class, play on a water bike or go for a tow in an inflatable. The steady trade winds that blow across the island are ideal for sailing, kite boarding and windsurfing. Colorful wrecks and reefs await divers just offshore, and there’s even an underwater submarine for those who want to stay dry. After a day on the water, Aruba serves up one of the most vibrant nightlife scenes in the Caribbean, from casinos to dance clubs and island-style beach parties. The island is also known for its diverse cuisine, with influences from more than 90 nations adding to the culinary melting pot.

Dutch influences are evident in the architecture of Aruba’s capital, Oranjestad. The island’s culture is the result of a mixing of European, Caribbean and South American influences. Photo: iStock

Bonaire

With a nickname like “Diver’s Paradise,” you’d expect Bonaire to attract the scuba set. The island is ringed by coral slopes that start shallow and close to shore, and are protected within the Caribbean’s oldest estabished marine park. At points all along the sheltered western shore, yellow-painted rocks mark entry points for dive and snorkel sites, where exploring the reef is as easy as wading in. A number of waterfront resorts centered near the town of Kralendijk also offer short boat rides to the reefs of uninhabited Kline Bonaire. If you’d rather keep your head above water, there’s sailing charters, windsurfing, kiteboarding, kayak trips and deep sea fishing, and the entire northern end of the island is a National Park. Visitors can spend a day at remote coves on the windward side of the island, or hike the rugged hillsides for panoramic island views. To promote off- season business, a number of hotels and dive shops are participating in the Fall Festival promotion, with incentives such as dine and dive packages, as well as a number of special events.

Bonaire was the first island in the Caribbean to establish marine sanctuaries along its coasts. Today, the coral reefs are among the healthiest and most vibrant in the region. Photo: iStock

Curacao

If you are looking to add a bit of international culture to your vacation, look no farther than Curacao. The island is home to a vibrant art scene, with galleries that attract both local and international talents. The narrow streets of downtown Willemstad are lined with Dutch Colonial buildings from the 17th and 18th century, all painted in bright island colors. A 130-year-old floating bridge connects a pair of historic districts, and the waterfront of St. Anna’s Bay hosts a floating market where fruits and vegetable are sold from boats arriving from nearby Venezuela. Treat yourself to Dutch waffles, Gouda cheese and a game of darts at one of the Dutch bars. If city life isn’t your thing, head to the cunucu—the rocky cactus-and-scrub interior— for a jeep safari tour, mountain biking excursion or hiking expedition to the top of Mt. Christoffel, the tallest peak on the island.

Though there are several popular beaches along Curacao’s southern coast, the remainder of the island’s coastline consists of rocky, cactus-covered cliffs punctuated by small coves. Photo: iStock

Anguilla, Aruba, Caribbean, Nevis, Puerto Rico, St. Kitts, Stay, Trip Ideas

Five Top Caribbean Luxury Resorts

October 27, 2015

Leave a comment

Luxury means different things to different people. It could be about the setting, the service, the food or the amenities. Whatever your definition of a luxurious Caribbean vacation, you’ll likely find it at one of these new or recently-refurbished properties, which represent the epitome of island-style indulgence.

Ritz-Carlton Aruba

Luxury rose to new heights when the Ritz-Carlton opened on Aruba’s fabled Palm Beach in November of 2013. The entire top floor of this 320-room property is devoted to an exclusive Club Level. Here, guests enjoy unrivaled views of the powder-white beach and the Caribbean Sea, both from private balconies and from the Club Lounge, where floor-to-ceiling windows provide a stunning backdrop, complementary meals and snacks are available throughout the day, and a dedicated concierge is always on call.

The Ritz-Carlton sits on Aruba’s Palm Beach, where white sands and bright turquoise waters create stunning panoramas. Floor-to- ceiling windows in the lobby bar take in the view. Photo: Don Riddle/Ritz-Carlton

The Ritz-Carlton is home to the island’s largest spa, offering both traditional and locally influenced treatments that feature aloe, coconut and cactus blended with healing components of herbs and rich earth minerals. Dining options include the signature BLT Steak restaurant, serving a world-class selection of USDA choice meats. Four additional dining experiences add Italian, seafood and an Argentine grill to the mix. The property also includes a 24-hour casino, fitness center, beach club, children’s programs and a full range of waters sports through Red Sail Sports.

Belle Monte Farms at Kittitian Hill, St. Kitts

Luxury meets sustainability at St. Kitts’ $600-million Kittitian Hill project. The visionary team behind this development describes it as a community where guests can immerse themselves in the vibrant beauty of the West Indies, enjoy fresh food foraged from the land and sea, and connect with the island’s rich culture. The first phase of this development, Belle Monte Farms, includes a collection of stand-alone guesthouses and villas, each built by island craftsmen to honor the region’s vernacular styles. Set amid lush natural landscaping, dwellings offer private infinity pools, garden baths surrounded by tropical foliage and private verandahs with mountain, garden and sea views.

The Kittitian Hill development blends luxurious accommodations into a natural environment where there is an emphasis on sustainability and respect for the island’s traditional culture. Photo: Kittitian Hill

Set on a former sugar plantation, the 400-acre Kittitian Hill project is home to a working organic farm that supplies much of the produce served at onsite restaurants, where cuisines are inspired by executive Chef Cristophe Letard’s farm-to-table philosophy. In the works is the 18-hole Irie Fields golf course, which provides challenging play in a setting that encompasses gardens and fruit trees—it’s being called the world’s most edible golf course. Additional elements of the community include a spa with indigenous treatments and a village with more eateries; shops, galleries and artisan’s studios will open as the development unfolds.

Condado Vanderbilt Hotel San Juan, Puerto Rico

Luxury meets tradition at San Juan’s Condado Vanderbilt and takes guests back to the days of the Roaring 20’s. This historic hotel opened in 1919, and over the years attracted visiting dignitaries, royalty and celebrities like Bob Hope and Errol Flynn to the shores of the vibrant Condado district, where iconic nightclubs and lounges heated up the tropical nightlife. Nearly a century later today’s guests will find nostalgic elements mixed with modern amenities and ongoing updates. The hotel’s culinary scene rose to new heights when Michelin-starred Chef Juan Jose Cuevas took the helm at the acclaimed 1919 restaurant. Most recently, a second internationally acclaimed dining spot opened in the form of Ola, where local ingredients are the focus.

Dark leather furnishings, iconic artwork and spiral staircases set the tone at San Juan’s historic Condado Vanderbilt Hotel. A roaming champagne cart delivers tempting libations. Photo: Magda Biernat/Condado Vanderbilt

A sweeping $200 million revitalization of the hotel was completed in December 2014, with more than 400 elegant guestrooms and suites re-imagined with inspirations from the hotel’s oceanfront setting and eclectic history. A sleek décor features dreamy neutral hues and textures representing ocean tides, dark wood furniture and plenty of brass accents. The on-site spa includes an aromatherapy bar and the island’s first Hammam. In addition to the beach, guests can take in the trade winds from a palm-lined roof top pool with butler service.

Malliouhana, An Auberge Resort, Anguilla

Luxury kicks off its shoes as one of the Caribbean’s favorite getaway resorts returns after a major renovation and a three-year closure. Anguilla’s Malliouhana, known for its intimacy, open-air setting and stellar service, is now under the Auberge Resort umbrella. The location can’t be beat, with 360-degree views of the sea and a gorgeous stretch of sand at Meads Bay, one the island’s best beaches. The renovation transformed the property’s 44 ocean view rooms and suites with a fresh island palette of mango, mint, saffron and white to blend the spaces with the environment.

Anguilla’s Malliouhana resort overlooks Meads Bay, which is one of the island’s finest beaches. Water and beach views abound, both from guest rooms and the top-rated restaurant. Photo: Malliouhana

Guest rooms also showcase some of Malliouhana’s original treasures, which include a collection of animated jungle scenes depicting the Garden of Eden, and painted by distinguished Haitian artist Jasmin Joseph. Also new are a pair of infinity-edged swimming pools and a signature Auberge Spa, which is cloistered in a setting of ponds, tropical vines and flowering plants. On an island known for its culinary expertise, the signature restaurant sets new standards in an open-air space situated on the bluff overlooking the sea. Under the direction of Executive Chef Jeremy Bearman, the menu embraces Caribbean flavors and traditions such as jerk spices, passion fruit, tamarind and guava.

Paradise Beach, Nevis

Luxury becomes personal at Paradise Beach. This new arrival to Nevis takes in a small, all-villa property that delivers the ultimate in private settings for extended families or groups of friends. The resort’s seven Balinese-style thatch-roofed villas include dramatic details such as 20-foot vaulted ceilings, outdoor dining areas and ocean views. Each three or four bedroom home also includes spacious common living area, full kitchens and private patios with pools.

Designed for families, friends and small corporate retreats, the garden and beach villas of the Paradise Beach Resort combine privacy with a wealth of on-call personal services. Photo: Ken Haydent/Paradise Beach Resort

Kitchens are outfitted with everything needed to prepare memorable meals, but if cooking isn’t on your agenda, the on-site concierge can arrange a visit from one of the island’s accomplished chefs, who can prepare a multi-course dinner or whip up appetizers and cocktails for the entourage around your pool. Your personal butler can summon a masseuse, or a certified personal trainer for those who want to maintain their fitness program. If not, a private beach bar awaits, and it’s just a short walk down Pinney’s Beach to Sunshine’s, where one of their famous Killer Bee cocktails is guaranteed to put you in that relaxed island state of mind.

British Virgin Islands, Caribbean, Guadeloupe, Plan, Saba, St. Vincent & the Grenadines, Trip Ideas

Off the Beaten Path Caribbean

October 6, 2015

Leave a comment

One of the great things about going to the Caribbean is discovering those quiet places where you can disconnect and turn off the outside world. Not an easy thing to do in busy cruise ship ports or when staying at a mega resort. But fortunately, there are islands that hold on to their past, have a respect for nature and the environment and provide all the ingredients for an ideal escape. Here are five of my personal favorites.

Saba

Saba’s coastline rises precipitously from the sea. Instead of sandy beaches and waving palms, this island offers picturesque villages and hiking trails that lead to cloud forests. Photo: Debbie Snow

Saba is a Caribbean island unlike any other. There are no palm- lined beaches, no casinos or nightclubs, no cruise ships, and never, ever a crowd of tourists. Rising steeply from the sea, Saba’s green-clad slopes are dotted with a collection of storybook villages, where white-walled cottages sport green shutters and red roofs, and stonewalls are layered in flowering vines. A single highway carves a serpentine path along the slopes to connect these settlements; hiking trails fan outward and upward to elfin- like cloud forests that thrive in the highlands of the long-extinct volcanic summit. Surrounding waters, which lie within a marine reserve, provide divers with unique underwater geological formations and fish-laden reefs. The island is so small that everyone knows everyone. It’s friendly and whimsical at the same time. Though connected to the world by both island ferry and small planes, Saba maintains a sense of otherworldly isolation that’s increasingly hard to find in the modern world.

Anegada

Anegada’s beaches are never crowded. Some hardly see a human footprint, as most visitors congregate at one of several lively beach bars along the central coast. Photo: Christian Wheatley/iStock

Twenty miles of blue water separate the low-lying shores of Anegada from higher-profile islands of the British Virgins. And it’s not just geography that sets this less-visited outpost apart. Miles of near-deserted white-sand beaches overlook a barrier reef that has claimed hundreds of shipwrecks. A smattering of small guesthouses and fishermen’s camps line the western coast, and much of the interior remains an unsettled realm of tropical scrub and salt marsh. A handful of day-trippers make the crossing from the island of Virgin Gorda each day, settling in at one of the beach bars on the windward coast, and some linger for the island’s signature dinner of barbecue lobster. Come evening, things get really quiet, and the stars come out in a sky where no streetlights mar the view.

Montserrat

Clouds hover over the peak of Montserrat’s Soufriere Hills. Two decades after this volcano’s last major eruption, visitors are once again discovering this green gem of an island. Photo: Debbie Snow

Once known as the “Emerald of the Caribbean” Montserrat was a green and fertile island that attracted discriminating visitors who appreciated the bucolic lifestyle. In 1995, a volcano came to life, spewing lava, smoke and ash that forced more than half the island’s population to evacuate. Today the Soufriere Hills Volcano still spurts some steam and ash, but scientists predict the eruption cycle is waning and will soon die out. Today, the island’s southern coast is coated with hardened lava that reaches from the cone to the coast. Meanwhile, the northern part of the island has returned to green and eco-tourism has taken off. Hiking is a favorite activity. The northern hills are laced with a network of forest footpaths, while a trip to the south takes you into an otherworldly landscape that presents a fascinating glimpse at the aftermath of the eruption.

Bequia

An island ferry departs the anchorage at Bequia’s Admiralty Bay. In centuries past, this harbor sheltered pirates, merchantmen and whalers. Today, it’s a favorite with cruising yachtsmen. Photo: iStock

Maritime traditions run deep in Bequia, and continue to this day. Native shipwrights still handcraft island-style boats using tools and traditions passed down through generations. Reminders of the island’s pirate past and whaling days linger, but the anchorage at Admiralty Bay is now filled by cruising yachtsmen, who include this favorite port of call on sails through the Grenadines. Bequia does receive visits by day-trippers from small cruise lines, but their temporary presence doesn’t overwhelm, and merely adds an extra dimension to the waterfront activity. The main street is for pedestrians only and an eclectic mix of bars and restaurants that hug the waterfront. Settle in and you’ll likely hear tales of voyages far and near, and maybe a few tales of the old days.

Iles des Saintes

The largest of the trio of islands of Les Saintes, Terre-de-Haute delights with a scenic waterfront district where small cafe’s and restaurants deliver a taste of France. Photo: Oliver Hoffmann/iStock

On this trio of small islets off the southern coast of Guadeloupe, the best of France has been transported to the Caribbean. On Terre-de-Haut, the largest of the three, the town of Le Bourg provides a quintessential seaside setting, to which is added a Gallic touch. Think café au lait, crisp banquettes hot from the oven, and just-caught seafood simmering in white wine and savory herbs. Most visitors are French, which adds a refreshing European flavor to the scene. Many come from the main island of Guadeloupe for the day and are gone by sunset. Stay at one of the island’s small hotels and you can practically have the place to yourself after five o’clock.

Bonaire, Caribbean, Play, Trip Ideas

Island Escapes: Bonaire’s High Point Hike

September 21, 2015

You’ll want to get an early start to reach the highest point on Bonaire. The climb up the hill known as Subi Brandaris won’t take all day – more like 45 minutes to an hour each way for most—but it’s best to start in the cool of the morning. Plan on arriving at the entrance gate to Washington Slagbaai National Park right at the eight o’clock opening hour, wearing sturdy walking shoes and packing drinking water and sunscreen. Let the rangers know your plans, and follow the park’s dirt roads some two miles to the trailhead parking area.

In a land where fencepost-sized trees are scarce and slow growing, the resourceful farmers of Bonaire plant rows of cactus to create boundaries and contain livestock. Photo: Frank van den Bergh/iStock

The trip to the summit begins in a grove of small hardwoods. A well- worn path offers partial shade for the first quarter mile, plus a chance to scan the branches for signs of the Bonaire parakeet and the many other species of birds that flit about the park. The vegetation thins and adds the odd cactus as you break out onto a boulder-and-scrub-covered ridge, which is bisected by a fence. This is the dividing line between the two former plantations—Washington and Slagbaai—which were combined to create the national park some 50 years ago. Fields where aloe and kadushi cactus were once cultivated have returned to more native vegetation, and there are ongoing efforts to remove the now-feral goats and donkeys that are descendants of the original farm animals. A gate on the pathway keeps goats out of the lusher Slagbaai side of the park, which has been purged of these over-grazing animals. Be sure to re-close it after passing through.

At the crest of the lower slope, you’ll turn west and traverse a ridgeline that provides valley views in two directions, as well as the rising summit of Brandaris ahead. At this point, the route begins a transition from path to boulder field, and as the ascent continues, you may find yourself having to scramble up and over couch-sized rocks, using the occasional handhold to steady yourself. It’s not quite rock climbing, but more challenging than your average nature walk. The higher you climb, the fresher the breeze, as you are now above the surrounding hills that blocked the easterly trade winds in the lower areas of the park. Up here, the branches of solitary divi trees grow at right angles, attesting to the relentless influence of the wind. Hang on to your hat, lest it be launched over the edge.

A Yellow-shouldered parrot roosts near one of the seasonal waterholes in Bonaire’s Washington Slagbaai National Park. The island attracts more than 200 species of birds. Photo: Brian Lasenby/iStock

You actually won’t mind the breeze, because it mitigates the growing strengthening of the sun and wicks away the light sweat generated by the climb. You come upon an iguana, sunning itself on a ledge, barely acknowledging your upward efforts. By now, the only remaining semblance of a trail is a series of yellow blaze marks painted on bushes and boulders, indicating the easiest route through the rocky maze. But the way on is obvious, and a few minutes later, you reach the white summit marker, which sits 784 feet above sea level.

Hikers pause at the windswept summit of Subi Brandaris, the highest point on the island of Bonaire. This vantage point provides 360-degrees of the island and the Caribbean Sea. Photo: Justin Lewis

The bare, windswept summit provides panoramic views of the park and the Caribbean Sea beyond. In clear weather, you can make out the distant outlines of the island of Curaçao and the Venezuelan mainland. The wind and the views somehow make Brandaris seem much higher than its sub-800-foot elevation; it’s as if you are standing on a peak miles high in the Rockies or the Alps, with the world falling away below you. Linger a few moments to take it all in while watching hawks riding the air currents.

The way down will be a bit quicker, though you’ll still need to mind your step, and you’ll be glad you packed plenty of water by the time you reach the base of this dry route. Well before noon, you’ll be back at your car, ready to decide if the afternoon should include a swim off one of the park’s remote beaches, a daring leap into the ocean from the cliff face at Boka Slagbaai or a drive into the nearby town of Rincon for some home cooking at the Rose Inn.

Caribbean, Grenada, Plan, Trip Ideas

Caribbean Snapshots: Carriacou

September 10, 2015

Leave a comment

Carriacou is a “just right” island. There are no high-rise hotels or mega resorts overshadowing the beaches, just quaint guesthouses tucked into the green hills. Instead of swarming cruise ship crowds, the waterfront is a casual mix of local fishermen and visiting yachtsmen. It’s been called the friendliest island in the Caribbean, where laid-back locals welcome the off- the-beaten-path travelers who arrive by private boat, small plane or a ferry from Grenada.

This 13-square mile dollop of green provides scenic hikes that lead to hilltop vistas, or down to a stunning collection of white, golden and black sand beaches. Snorkel-worthy coral reefs lie just beyond the turquoise shallows, along with a smattering of tiny offshore islands and sandbars perfect for beach combing getaways.

Carriacou is also known for its rum shops, with more than 100 small taverns scattered through neighborhoods and villages. Most concoct their own house blends from a potent stock known as Jack Iron. The afternoon toddy is a long-standing island tradition, which may help explain why everyone seems so relaxed and friendly.

Caribbean, Guadeloupe, Plan, Trip Ideas

Walk This Way: Guadeloupe’s Amazing Volcano Hike

September 10, 2015

Leave a comment

Pick the right day and a hike up Guadeloupe’s La Grande Soufriere will reward your uphill efforts with grand views of island and ocean from a height of 4,800 feet. But even if the clouds roll in and take away the big picture, you’ll still find yourself immersed in a lush tropical forest on the lower slopes, and an otherworldly landscape of lava flows and steaming sulfurous vents at the summit. In fact, this mountain’s name translates from French as “big sulphur outlet, and it is one of the youngest and most active volcanoes in the Caribbean. Relax, it’s not likely to blow without warning, the last eruption in 1976 didn’t cause any loss of life.

Clouds of sulfur-tinged steam rise from a thermal vent in the south crater of La Soufrière. This volcano last erupted in 1976, and is one of the youngest in the Caribbean. Photo: Jean-Luc Azou/iStock

In years past, it was possible to drive to within 1,000 feet of the summit, but a closure of the road leading up to the sulphur mine at Savannah Mulets means you’ll have to hoof it up on the network of trails that both circle and ascend the slopes. If you want to go all the way to the top, plan on a couple of hours of walking on a route that circles the volcano as it climbs. Most of the route offers moderate grades, with a steeper section near the top. Along the way you will alternate between areas of verdant greenery and lava flows where the flora is once again taking hold. Up top, you’ll find evidence of historic eruptions, as well as active fumaroles—vents that spew clouds of odiferous sulphur gas. Your greatest challenge when hiking Soufrière won’t be the climb, it will be picking a day when the clouds are at bay and there’s a clear view from the top. When conditions look favorable, put on some sturdy shoes, pack water and snacks, and get ready for a real adventure.

Sapphire Beach Resort

Secret Harbour Beach Resort

Dreams Sugar Bay

Bolongo Bay Beach Resort

Salt Pond Bay

Ram Head Trail

Drunk Bay

Camel Safaris, Jamaica

Stingray Encounters, Turks & Caicos

Swimming With Pigs, Bahamas

Swarmed by Donkeys, Bonaire

Nuzzling with Nurse Sharks, Belize

Soaring Over St. Lucia

Costa Rica, Like a Bird

High in Jamaica

Aruba

Bonaire

Curacao

Ritz-Carlton Aruba

Belle Monte Farms at Kittitian Hill, St. Kitts

Condado Vanderbilt Hotel San Juan, Puerto Rico

Malliouhana, An Auberge Resort, Anguilla

Paradise Beach, Nevis

Saba

Anegada

Montserrat

Bequia

Iles des Saintes

Most Popular Articles

The Tropics are Calling

The Tropics are
Calling