Tag Archives: Oahu

Hawaiian Shirts

The Original Hawaiian Shirt

 

Like the islands themselves, the modern-day Hawaiian shirt is the product of a mixing pot of cultures and traditions. The colorful, casual designs of today represent a convergence of influences, with its deepest roots in the colorful patterns of kapa cloth. This traditional Hawaiian fabric was usually dyed in bold geometric patterns, and worn as loincloths known as kapa malo, or sarong-like wraps known as kapa pa’u.

The arrival of European missionaries heralded a new era of conservative western-style dress through much of the 19th century, but dress codes began to relax and expand in the early 20th century, when migrants from the east came to work the sugar plantations and pineapple fields. The Chinese brought brightly colored and loose fitting silk garments, while workers from the Philippines favored the relaxed feel of the untucked and cool-wearing barong tagalog. At around the same time, Japanese immigrants transformed the cooling fabrics and loose fitting style of the kimono into a short-sleeved work shirt that would become known as the palaka. The traditional palaka sported a checkerboard design, but it wasn’t long before the cultural mingling lead to bold new interpretations that also tied into Hawaiian kapa cloth designs.

Most historians give credit to a merchant named Ellery Chun for popularizing the first modern version of what we now call the Hawaiian shirt. In the 1930s, his dry goods store in Honolulu began selling a garment he labeled the Aloha Shirt. It wasn’t long before other tailors began creating their own versions of these loose-fitting, brightly colored shirts. As the first wave of vacationers arrived from the United States, many returned home with bright Hawaiian shirts as reminders of their time in the islands.

Following World War II, the Hawaiian shirt became the unofficial symbol of a new cultural attitude that embraced a more relaxed dress code and lifestyle, and these shirts would eventually become accented business attire. Hollywood popularized the style, and by the 1960s, the Hawaiian shirt had made its way into mainstream American culture. There have been a number of subtle variations in style, materials and colors in the years since, but one thing remains unchanged: put on a Hawaiian shirt, and you are almost guaranteed to take life just a little bit easier.

 

 

oahu hawaii north shore wave

Hawaii Snapshots: North Shore, Oahu

 

When surfers describe something as “totally tubular,” this is what they mean. The view from within the curl of a breaking wave is known as the “green room.” Only a select number of wave riders will ever gain entry, because placing board and body in this legendary sweet spot requires both skill and the perfectly shaped wave.

One of the best places in the world to ride inside the tube is on the North Shore of Oahu, when winter storms far to the north generate large swells that travel across the Pacific and break on island beaches. Though most visitors to famous surf breaks such as Waimea Bay and Pipeline will never see the inside of a wave, it can be quite rewarding to watch from shore as some of the world’s best take on these towering walls of water.

Maui Turtle

Hawaii’s Best Turtle Snorkel Sites

 

The waters of Hawaii are home to colorful coral reefs and several thousand species of tropical fish. But for many snorkelers, the highlight of a snorkeling adventure is an encounter with a sea turtle. These hard-shelled amphibians are most abundant in summer months, but can be seen in coastal waters year-round. If you find yourself sharing a reef with a sea turtle, just remember to be respectful and give the animal some space. It’s OK to look, but not to touch, and you’ll stand a better chance of creating a memorable encounter if you let the turtle come to you, rather than chasing after it. You might see a turtle most anywhere you stick your head below the waves in Hawaiian waters, but some sites are more popular than others, and also easier to reach. Here are some of the islands’ best bets for turtle encounters.

Hawaii Green Sea Turtles

A pair of green sea turtles occupies a beach in Kauai. When seen ashore during daylight hours, these animals are not nesting and laying eggs, but simply basking in the sunlight. Photo: iStock

Oahu

At Hawaii’s most popular snorkel site, turtles have grown accustomed to the schools of snorkel-equipped land mammals that enter the waters of Hanauma Bay each day. That said, even the most tolerant of turtles will shy away when pursued with too much enthusiasm by too many swimmers. To avoid the crowds and have the best chance of a rewarding turtle encounter, come early, or swim a bit farther afield. You’ll usually find turtles in shallow water near the reefs.

Oahu Waimea Bay Hawaii

Snorkel sites along Oahu’s north coast, such as Waimea Bay, are best enjoyed in calmer summer months, as winter swells can create towering surf and dangerous rip currents. Photo: JS Callahan/iStock

As an alternative to Hanauma Bay, head to the North Shore. A quick stop at one of the dive shops in Haleiwa will give you the latest word on conditions at sites such as Three Tables, Shark’s Cove, Waimea Bay and Laniakea—aka Turtle Beach. Big surf can limit snorkeling in winter months, but these same sites are often calm during summer, which is also when turtles are most abundant.

Maui

Maui has numerous bays and miles of beaches where snorkelers can swim with turtles, whether entering the water from shore, or by boat. From the Lahaina area, Honolua Bay is a favorite stop for snorkel charters, where in addition to the ubiquitous turtles, there’s a good chance of sighting octopus, parrotfish and even the occasionally spinner dolphin. For land-based snorkelers, the prime site near Lahaina is the headland known as Black Rock, which is located on the north end of Kaanapali Beach. Another site in the area worth checking out is the Mala Wharf, where turtles glide through the remains of a ship’s pier that was destroyed by Hurricane Iniki in 1992.

Maui Honolua Bay Hawaii

Maui’s Honolua Bay offers plenty of sea turtles plus the chance to encounter spinner dolphin. The bay can be reached by land, but most snorkelers arrive aboard charter boats. Photo: Brad Scott/iStock

There are a number of beaches along the southwestern coast of Maui where turtles are plentiful, and the most famous is the site known as Turtle Town. Here, turtles congregate around a collection of underwater lava formations, which also attract swarms of tropical fish. A number of boat operators provide tours to Turtle Town, and you can also get there from shore, as the site is just a short swim from Maluaka Beach. Another boat-based alternative is a trip to Molokini, and a visit to Turtle Arches.

Kauai

On Kauai, the deciding factor on where to snorkel is often the surf conditions. When seas are calmer along the north shore, which is typically in summer, sites such as Kee and Makua Beach offer some of the finest reefs in Hawaii, especially at the area known as Tunnels. A less known option that’s a bit off the beaten path, but often packed with turtles, is a small cove next to the tide pool known as Queen’s Bath. Getting there requires a scramble down a rocky shore, and the site isn’t safe when the surf is up, and crashing against the walls of the cove.

Kauai Kee Beach Hawaii

Kee Beach is one of the most popular places on Kauai to snorkel with sea turtles. Summer months are best, as this is the time when surf is smallest and turtles are most abundant. Photo: iStock

When the north shore isn’t an option due to larger winter swells, Kauai’s southern coast is the place to be. Poipu Beach is a perennial favorite, and offers easy entry and calm conditions, plus a reasonable chance of seeing turtles and sometimes even Hawaiian monk seals. A bit to the west, Lawia Beach has a protected inner reef that’s safe to snorkel even when waves are breaking over the outside reef.

Hawaii

The western shores of the Big Island offer miles of calm, clear water for snorkelers, but only a limited number of access points. Closest to the resorts on the Kona coast is Kahaluu Beach Park. This shallow, sheltered bay is home to one of the highest concentrations of fish on Hawaii, along with plenty of turtles. Ten miles farther to the south, Kealakekua Bay is a site best reached by boat, as shore entry will require a long hike over rugged terrain. A number of charter operators run trips to this popular site, and the reefs hold an abundance of both turtles and fish.

Puuhonua O Honaunau Park Hawaii

On the calmer western coast of the island of Hawaii, Puuhonua O Honaunau National Park overlooks one of the island’s best snorkel sites, which is known locally as “Two Steps.” Photo: iStock

Another of the island’s best turtle watching venues is easily accessed from shore. Snorkelers can enter the waters of Honaunau Bay at a site called “Two Steps,” which is just outside of the Puuhonua O Honaunau National Park. Roadside parking can be at premium here, but for a modest fee, you can leave your car in the National Park’s lot, use the restrooms and make the short walk next door to the entry point.

Oahu Hawaii Hanauma Bay

Hawaiian Snapshots: Hanauma Bay, Oahu

 

Hawaii’s favorite snorkel site is also one of the best protected. This wasn’t always the case, and there was a time when the reefs of Hanauma Bay were showing wear and tear from the thousands of visitors who came each day to explore the coral grottoes and swim with colorful tropical fish. Things began to change for the better when the bay was designated as Hawaii’s first Marine Life Conservation District, and later designated as a nature preserve.

Today, first-time visitors are presented with a short orientation program at the reserve’s visitor’s center, which explains the proper way to enjoy the reefs without causing damage. Through education and controlled access, fish populations and corals have rebounded, and the waters are home to more than 400 species of fish, including numerous varieties of brightly colored parrotfish. The bay is also a nursery for sea turtles. Hanauma is just a short drive from Honolulu, and it’s best to arrive early if you want to stake out a prime bit of real estate on the beach.

Hawaii Plate Lunch

Hawaii’s Local Favorites

 

If your idea of Hawaii cuisine is tropical fruits and luau food, you need to expand your culinary horizons. The islands have long been a cultural mixing pot, with culinary influences from around the world blending to create a slew of unique-to-the-islands dishes and drinks you can’t find anywhere else. If you are ready to discover the diverse tastes of Hawaii, here are some of our favorite starting points.

Plate Lunch

The most iconic meal in Hawaii is called the plate lunch, an un- apologetically starch-heavy combination that dates back to the plantation period. The meal consists of two scoops of white rice, another of mayonnaise-based macaroni salad and some kind of entrée, which can range from teriyaki beef to pork adobo. The best place to sample one of these simple meals is at Rainbow Drive-In (3308 Kanaina Ave., 808-737-0177, www.rainbowdrivein.com) in Kapahulu, less than a mile outside of Waikiki. The landmark restaurant first opened in 1961 and is one of the few remaining drive-ins from this era. It’s been a favorite of residents for generations, though a recent stint on Food Network’s ‘Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives’ with Guy Fieri (who eats the fried chicken here whenever he’s in town) has put the drive-in in the guidebooks. And because of its proximity to the beaches in Waikiki, it’s a popular stop for surfers and beach-goers, who often arrive in beachwear for their fix of burgers, fries and the drive-in’s famous Slush Float. While it serves a variety of plate lunches—from hearty chili to chicken cutlets smothered in brown gravy—the most popular is the mix plate, featuring beef or pork teriyaki, a breaded chicken cutlet and mahimahi. There’s lots of parking at the drive- in and next door, but expect a crowd at lunchtime with lines spilling into the parking lot.

Rainbow Drive Inn Hawaii Local Food Plate Lunch

Oahu’s Rainbow Drive-In serves up traditional plate lunches. These date back to the plantation days, when workers sought a simple yet filling mid-day meal to fuel their labors. Photo: Catherine Toth

Spam Musubi

A popular snack found in most convenience stores in Hawaii is the Spam musubi —a block of white rice topped with a slice of grilled Spam, wrapped together with dried seaweed. Sometimes the musubi comes paired with egg, other times the Spam is flavored with teriyaki sauce. Hawaii has a long history of affection for the pink canned meat. Residents eat nearly 7 million cans of Spam a year, according to Minnesota-based Hormel Foods. That’s more than any other state in the nation. One eatery has perfected the snack. Tanioka’s Seafoods & Catering (94-903 Farrington Highway, 808-671-3779, www.taniokas.com) in Waipahu in Central Oahu prepares a Spam musubi that has quickly become one of the most popular items on the menu. The Spam is seasoned with a sweet teriyaki sauce that ramps this musubi to another level. These grab-and-go treats are located right at the cash register at Tanioka’s. But you have to go through a line to get there, passing display cases of poke, fried chicken, shortbread cookies and other local favorites. There isn’t anywhere to eat in or outside, so you’ll have to drive somewhere to enjoy your treat—we recommend visiting the nearby Hawaii’s Plantation Village (95-695 Waipahu St., 808-677-0110, www.hawaiiplantationvillage.org) in Waipahu, where you can walk around a restored plantation village that tells the story about Hawaii’s multiethnic history.

Spam

Spam musubi is a popular grab-and-go snack found all across Hawaii. Slices of flavored Spam provide the signature ingredient, which is paired with rice and wrapped in seaweed. Photo: Catherine Toth

Poke

Of the favorite types of pupu, or appetizer, in the Islands is poke (pronounced poh-kay). This consists of cubed ahi (yellow fin tuna) marinated in sea salt with shoyu (soy sauce), inamona (roasted crusted kukui nut), sesame oil, seaweed and chopped chili pepper. And it’s a fixture everywhere, from high-end restaurants to grocery stores. (Even Costco sells poke.) There are many variations of this dish, ranging from raw salmon to cured octopus. Try any of the ones served at Poke Stop (95-1840 Meheula Parkway, 808-626- 3400, www.poke-stop.com) in Mililani in Central Oahu. Here, you can even get a poke bowl with seared ahi served over kim chee- flavored fried rice. It’s a small shop located behind a McDonald’s, with some seating inside. While poke is its specialty, you’ll likely smell other dishes like garlic shrimp or grilled rib eye steak cooking up in the kitchen. Don’t be surprised to see owner Elmer Guzman prepping in the kitchen or his young daughters helping out in the dining area.

Hawaiian Poke

From high-end restaurants to supermarkets, you can find poke on every menu. The dish is typically marinated seafood topped with seaweed, chili peppers and even fish roe. Photo: Catherine Toth

Saimin

This is a noodle soup dish that came out of Hawaii’s plantation era. Drawing on the influences of Japanese ramen, Chinese mein and Filipino pancit, it is a curly egg noodles in a hot broth. One of the best bowls is on Kauai at Hamura’s Saimin Stand (2956 Kress St., Lihue, 808-245-3271), which uses locally made noodles. This old-fashioned saimin shop has been around for about 70 years and still popular as ever. Its long, S-shaped community table is almost always packed with diners, sitting on wooden stools and huddled over their bowls of steaming hot saimin. You can watch the longtime workers prepare the broth and noodles right in front of you in the open kitchen. The most popular is Hamura’s special saimin topped with luncheon meat, roast pork and veggies.

Saimin

Saimin is an Asian-influenced noodle soup turned Hawaiian. It consists of soft egg noodles immersed in a hot broth. Garnishes can include a variety of meats and vegetables. Photo: Catherine Toth

Mai Tai

A favorite libation in the islands, the Mai Tai is a combination of light and dark rums, lime, orgeat and curacao or triple sec. It was purportedly invented in 1944 at the Trader Vic’s restaurant in Oakland, California, but it soon became associated with Hawaii. The original concoction is vastly different from the imitations served in many restaurants and bars. The 1944 drink, which means “good” in Tahitian, used J. Wray & Nephew Jamaican rum, fresh lime juice, orgeat (an almond syrup with French origins), orange curacao and sugar syrup. There’s only one bottle left in the world of the Jamaican rum, so modern bartenders use various rums instead. The Royal Kona Resort hosts Don the Beachcomber’s Mai Tai Festival, which lures about two dozen mixologists who blend their best recipes in the hopes of winning $10,000. But you can find Mai Tais on just about any menu in Hawaii. The oceanfront House Without a Key (2199 Kalia Rd., 808-923-2311, www.halekulani.com/dining/house-without-a-key) at the posh Halekulani in Waikiki boasts a popular Mai Tai, perfect for sipping at sunset. Go in the evening and grab a seat outside, facing the Pacific Ocean, and listen to live Hawaiian music with hula dancers gracefully moving under a century-old kiawe tree. The refreshing drink is perfection in this atmosphere.

Mai Tai

Though thought to have originated in California, the Mai Tai has long been associated with Hawaii. With slight variations, the drink combines one or more rums, fruit juices and syrups. Photo: iStock

Loco Moco

You likely won’t find this dish—or a variation of it—anywhere but Hawaii. Another product of the plantation culture, the loco moco is just white rice topped with a hamburger patty (or two), an egg and brown gravy. It was first created in Hilo on the Big Island, where you can still get one of the best versions of this dish at Café 100 (969 Kilauea Ave., Hilo, 808-935-8683, www.cafe100.com). This old- time drive-in serves more than 30 different kinds of loco mocos, including one with fish and another topped with homemade chili. It started serving loco mocos in 1949 and now sells about 9,000 of them every month. The menu on display is dizzying, so take your time. Like Rainbow Drive-In, Café 100 has take-out windows but with some open-air seating where you can feast on your loco moco plate. This is a popular stop for Hilo residents seeking a quick bite to eat, though more visitors are finding it despite its location off the main highway. If you’re on Kilauea Avenue, you can’t miss it, with its name in huge red letters on a wooden facade.

Loco Moco

Loco moco is one of several distinctly Hawaiian creations that pairs a serving of rice with one or more protein toppers. This example comes from Cafe 100 in the town of Hilo. Photo: Catherine Toth

Malasadas

This popular Portuguese dessert is simple: it’s just fried sweet dough doused in white sugar. But few have perfected the art of making these round, sugary donuts. While Leonard’s Bakery in Kapahulu on Oahu is the most well known bakery to specialize in these fried treats, Agnes’ Portuguese Bake Shop (46 Hoolai St., 808-262-5367, www.agnesbakeshop.com) in Kailua on Oahu’s windward side whips up the most authentic version—complete with the traditional hole in the middle. The malasadas here are made to order and coated generously in white sugar. It’s located in a parking lot shared with a couple of other shops. There are display cases features other baked good such as bear claws, apple fritters, jelly donuts and scones. Grab a cup of freshly brewed local coffee and take a seat while you wait. Since the malasadas are made to order, it might take a few minutes.

Malasada

A close cousin to the donut, the Malasada originated in Portugal. These savory chunks of sweet fried dough are coated in sugar, and may or may not have central holes. Photo: Catherine Toth

Shave ice

Hawaii’s version of this icy treat is nothing like the chunky snow cones served on the mainland. Shave ice—also called ice shave on the Big Island—has a finer consistency, and more completely absorbs the sweet syrup toppings, which come in flavors ranging from strawberry to piña colada. Most shave ice stands like Matsumoto Shave Ice on Oahu’s North Shore and Ululani’s Shave Ice on Maui top these desserts with homemade mochi (sweet glutinous rice), red azuki beans and sweetened condensed milk. But if you’re looking for something truly unique, visit Shimazu Store (330 N. School St., 808-371-8899) in Honolulu. This small hole-in-the-wall boasts more than 50 different flavors including lychee, red velvet crème, durian and creme brulee. This shave ice shop is in a former neighborhood grocery store. It’s tiny inside, and you’ll likely have to eat on the small bench just outside the door. The workers will make your shave ice to order right before your eyes, including shaving the ice.

Hawaiian Shaved Ice

Hawaiian shave ice is a favorite treat. Unlike a snow cone, which uses crushed ice, shaving produces smaller ice slivers that more readily absorb flavoring syrups and additional toppings. Photo: iStock

 

Oahu, Saimin Noodles

Eat Like a Local: 10 Favorite Spots on Oahu

 

Oahu is known for its world-class surf, majestic mountains and long stretches of white sandy beaches. It’s why seven million people travel here every year. The island can also be a culinary adventure, with a variety of cuisines and dishes you can’t find anywhere else. But don’t rely solely on the guidebooks. Find out where the locals eat—the sometimes hard-to-find, off-the-GPS stops that satisfy the palettes of our multicultural mix. Here are 10 of my personal favorite places to eat on Oahu, and what you should order.

The Pig and the Lady

It was well after lunchtime and we still had to squeeze between patrons and steaming bowls of pho on a communal table at The Pig and the Lady, one of the newest restaurants to open in Oahu’s revitalized Chinatown. The restaurant, run by the Le family, started as a pop-up at farmer’s markets in Honolulu and garnered loyal, if not downright rabid fans craving its popular banh mi and Vietnamese noodle soups. In November 2013, the family opened its first brick-and-mortar shop with a menu that boasts both market favorites and new dishes like pho tsukemen (dipping noodles) and slices of homemade pie. Parking is tricky; you’ll have to park in a nearby municipal lot or get lucky and score a space on the street.

Favorite Bites: Salad lovers should try the hoi and chicken salad with cabbage, Vietnamese cilantro and fried shallots topped with fish sauce vinaigrette. The P&L Pho features smoked bacon and a 12-hour brisket paired with a marinated soft egg in the restaurant’s signature broth. And get the dessert of the week; it’s never a disappointment. The Pig and the Lady, 83 N. King St., Chinatown, (808) 585-8255, www.thepigandthelady.com 

Oahu, The Pig And The Lady, favorite spots on oahu

The Pig and the Lady serves up some of Oahu’s favorite pho noodle soups. A popular choice is the P&L Pho, which adds smoked bacon and brisket to the kitchen’s signature broth. Photo: Catherine Toth

Rainbow Drive-In

The line twisted from the four open windows and into the parking lot — and it was a hot Saturday. Yet, cars, many of them topped with surfboards, kept pulling into Rainbow Drive-In, the iconic restaurant that’s been serving plate lunches and sandwiches since 1961. It’s a throwback to the old-fashioned drive-ins, where service is quick and the food is affordable. The plate lunch is an iconic Hawaii meal, consisting of two scoops of white rice, a generous dollop of mayonnaise-laden macaroni salad and some kind of entrée, which can range from barbecue chicken to breaded mahimahi.

Favorite Bites: The mix plate is, hands down, the most popular plate lunch, boasting barbecue beef, a breaded chicken cutlet and mahimahi. Or try the loco moco, a product of Hawaii’s plantation era. This simple dish is just white rice topped with a hamburger patty (or two), an egg and brown gravy. Don’t forget to try the drive-in’s famous Slush Float, a dessert that combines strawberry slush with vanilla ice cream. Rainbow Drive-In, 3308 Kanaina Ave., Kapahulu, (808) 737-0177, www.rainbowdrivein.com

Oahu, Rainbow Drive Inn

The Rainbow Drive-In’s mixed plate is pure Hawaiian comfort food, piling portions of beef, chicken and fish on a mound of gravy-laden rice, with a side of macaroni salad. Photo: Catherine Toth

Fresh Catch

You might not notice the smoker in the rear parking lot, but that’s the secret behind the smoked meats and taco poke (pronounced poh-kay) from Fresh Catch in Kaneohe. Poke, a popular appetizer in the Islands, consists of cubed ahi (yellowfin tuna) marinated in sea salt with shoyu, inamona (roasted crusted kukui nut), sesame oil, seaweed and chopped chili pepper. There are many variations of this dish, ranging from raw salmon to cured octopus. There’s lots of parking and seating here, though most folks order their poke and smoked meat to go.

Favorite Bites: In addition to the tako poke (smoked octopus), try the smoke meat and onions plate with hearty portions of smoked pork served on a bed of freshly chopped onions. The ahi katsu is also very popular, covered in furikake (a dry Japanese condiment using seaweed) and pan-fried until golden brown. Fresh Catch, 45- 1118 Kamehameha Highway, Kaneohe, (808) 235-7653, www.freshcatch808.com   

Ohau Fresh Catch

In addition to a tempting array of smoked meats and fishes, Fresh Catch is known for its ahi katsu, which is pan-fried yellowfin tuna flavored with a seaweed-based breading. Photo: Melissa Chang.

Shige’s Saimin Restaurant

Saimin is a noodle soup dish that came out of Hawaii’s plantation era, combining Japanese ramen, Chinese mein and Filipino pancit, using curly egg noodles in a hot broth. You can find an authentic bowl of this at Shige’s Saimin Restaurant in Wahiawa on the way to the North Shore. It’s one of the last remaining saimin stands on Oahu that makes its own noodles. They’re flat and doughy and a perfect complement for the stand’s salty broth.

Favorite Bites: Saimin, of course, with barbecue beef sticks. Shige’s Saimin Restaurant, 70 Kukui St., #108, Wahiawa, (808) 621-3621

Shiges, Oahu

Soup lovers make the drive to Shige’s Saimin Restaurant in the mid-island town of Wahiawa for the chance to enjoy a bowl of authentic saimin, with noodles made fresh on site. Photo: Catherine Toth

 Alicia’s Market

Hidden in the industrial area of Kalihi, a small neighborhood a few miles outside of Waikiki is one of the island’s best-kept secrets when it comes to p?p?, or appetizers. And mostly because it looks like an old-time market complete with posters plastered to its glass window exterior and a bright neon “open” sign. Go past the vegetable aisle toward the back of the market; that’s where the action is. A glass case houses a seemingly unlimited variety of poke, salted seaweed, boiled peanuts, smoked pork and other island favorites.

Favorite Bites: Try the market’s most popular poke, the masago wasabi poke, made with fish roe (eggs) and Japanese horseradish tossed with cubed ahi. The smoked pork and beef are stellar choices, too, perfect for tailgating during football season. Alicia’s Market, 267 Mokauea St., Kalihi, (808) 841-1921

Alicia's on Oahu

Alicia’s Market serves up numerous varieties of poke, including the classic version, with raw ahi tuna marinated in sea salt, and seasoned with soy, sesame and chili peppers. Photo: Catherine Toth

 Agnes’ Portuguese Bake Shop

On your way back from a day lounging on picturesque Lanikai Beach on Oahu’s windward side, stop by for a fried treat you can only find in Hawaii. Malasadas are a popular Portuguese dessert that’s simple: it’s just fried sweet dough doused in white sugar. But few have perfected the art of making these round, sugary donuts like Agnes’ Portuguese Bake Shop. These balls of fried goodness are made to order. And while you’re waiting, you can browse the display cases filled with other goodies such as lemon bars, bear claws, turnovers, bacon maple fritters, Russian tea biscuits and a variety of pies. There’s parking and lots of seating inside, though you’ll likely just want to grab a box and go.

Favorite Bites: Malasadas with a cup of the bakery’s freshly brewed island coffee. Agnes’ Portuguese Bake Shop, 46 Hoolai St., Kailua, (808) 262-5367, www.agnesbakeshop.com

Agnes Oahu

The signature offering at Agnes’ Portuguese Bake Shop is the Malasada, a Portuguese take on the dough doused in white sugar. These confections are made hot and fresh to order. Photo: Catherine Toth

Opal’s Thai

What started as a popular food truck in the north shore town of Haleiwa turned into a brick-and-mortar restaurant not too far from its original location. The only thing that’s changed is that owner Opel Sirichandhra can serve more people. Opal’s Thai offers authentic Thai food that doesn’t skimp on flavor or spice. And Sirichandhra still insists on choosing food for you, asking only for your heat tolerance and favorite ingredients. He’ll come back and hand you a plate that you never thought about ordering—and you’ll love every bite. It’s cozy and there are lines during lunchtime, so get there early.

Favorite Bites: Despite its strange and slightly unappetizing name, order the larb, a tangy minced pork salad with ground, toasted rice; and the drunken noodles. You can’t go wrong with the pad Thai noodles either. Opal’s Thai, 66-197 Kamehameha Highway, North Shore, (808) 637-7950

Opals, Oahu

Regulars at Opal’s Thai don’t consult a menu, and trust the chef/owner to whip up original Thai recipes that vary from day to day. His only question: how hot do you like it? Photo: Catherine Toth

 Koko Head Café

It’s a common complaint among Oahu locals: there aren’t a lot of breakfast and brunch places on the island. Well, that started to change in recent years. The latest brunch spot to hit the culinary scene is Koko Head Café, a venture between Kevin Hanney, owner of nearby 12th Avenue Grill, and Lee Anne Wong, trained culinary ninja and “Top Chef” alum. Wong runs the kitchen and creates such innovative dishes as kimchi bacon cheddar scones, miso- smoked pork and onion omelet, poi biscuits and gravy with a soft- poached egg and mushroom gravy, and daily dumplings.

Favorite Bites: For a unique flavor, try the breakfast bibimbap, a Korean take on breakfast with bacon, Portuguese sausage, heritage ham, house made kimchi, soy-mirin mushrooms, ong choy, sesame carrots and bean sprouts with a sunny-up egg served over crispy garlic rice in a hot skillet. Talk about a meal! Koko Head Cafe, 1145c 12th Avenue, Kaimuki, (808) 732-8920, www.kokoheadcafe.com

Koko Head Cafe, Oahu

The Koko Head Cafe’s breakfast bibimbap is a savory collision of cultures and flavors, pairing breakfast meats, eggs, rice and Oriental vegetables in a satisfying skillet meal. Photo: Catherine Toth

 Side Street Inn

If you’re looking for unpretentious bar food in something other than a trendy gastropub, check out the popular late-night sports bar Side Street Inn on Kapahulu Avenue. Even James Beard award- winning chefs like Alan Wong dine here. This place specializes in large, shareable plates of island comfort-foods such as Hawaiian- style pulehu short ribs, steamed Manila clams with Portuguese sausage and bell peppers, and kimchi fried rice. The vibe is lively, with flat screen TVs surrounding the dining area and a full bar ready for anything. This isn’t the place for a romantic date night; it’s loud and unapologetic about it. There’s valet parking under the building or street park along Kapahulu.

Favorite Bites: The most popular dish is the pan-fried pork chops, crispy on the outside, juicy on the inside. Wash it down with the bar’s wide selection of domestic and imported beers — including its own signature Side Street Inn Rogue Ale — wines, spirits and cocktails. Side Street Inn, 614 Kapahulu Ave., (808) 739-3939, www.sidestreetinn.com 

Oahu, Side Street Inn

The Side Street Inn serves savory pub food with an island flair. Signature favorites include Hawaiian-style pulehu short ribs, kimchi fried rice and crispy pan-fried pork chops. Photo: Catherine Toth

Kiwami Ramen

This beloved ramen shop was originally located in a basement food court of the Waikiki Shopping Plaza. Ramen lovers across the island were devastated by it’s closing when the center underwent renovation, and plans to re-open were sketchy. Then, in October 2013, the ramen-ya re-opened on Keeaumoku Street in the space vacated by a short-lived udon shop. Kiwami is best known for its tsukemen, or dipping-style ramen. (The noodles and a more concentrated broth are served separately.) The fat, chewy noodles, which come either hot or cold, are always cooked perfectly and the chicken-based dipping broths — in shio (salt), shoyu or spicy — are rich and flavorful. Parking is $1 below the building, which is a boon on busy Keeaumoku.

Favorite Bites: Since it’s unique to the shop, get the tsukemen. You dip the noodles—you can order them cold or hot—into the concentrated broth, then into your mouth. The gyoza here is house made and worth the 10-minute wait. Kiwami Ramen, 641 Keeaumoku St., (808) 955-1122, www. kiwami-ramen.com

Kiwami Ramen, Oahu

Now reopened in a new location, Kiwami Ramen is Honolulu’s favorite stop for tsukemen—ramen-style noodles served hot or cold for dipping in salty or spicy chicken-based broths. Photo: Catherine Toth

Hawaii, Maui, Haleakala Horseback Riding

Hawaii Horseback Adventures

 

Hawaii and horses. The image just seems right. And, in fact you can saddle with dozens of outfitters and riding stables scattered across all six major islands. There are beginner-friendly walks on groomed trails, fast-paced rides for those with some equine experience and challenging excursions into the backcountry to discover sights few tourists ever see. From this list of possibilities, we’ve come up with four rides that offer something a bit out of the ordinary.

Into the Volcano

The island of Maui offers some of the most diverse horseback excursions in the state—everything from beach rides to explorations of wooded trails and canters on expansive grasslands lying thousands of feet above the ocean. The Valley Isle’s most unusual riding adventure begins at the summit of Mount Haleakala, and descends into this dormant volcano’s central crater. The route follows the Sliding Sands Trail to the crater floor, some 2,500 feet below the rim. This route requires about four hours to complete, including a lunch stop in the crater. The tour outfitters recommend that riders have at least some riding experience, and should be comfortable with higher altitudes, as the trail ranges from 7,500 feet up to 10,000 feet above sea level. Needless to say, the views are unforgettable.

Maui, Haleakala Horseback Riding, Hawaii Horseback Adventures

Riders descend the Sliding Sands trail in Haleakala National Park. Hikers and riders can follow a network of trails from the summit rim deep into the dormant volcano’s inner crater. Photo: iStock

Saddles and Swimsuits

The island of Kauai is known for it’s wild spaces, lush landscapes and cascading falls–especially on the north shore. You can take in all these elements on a two-hour ride through the Kalihiwai Valley that includes a chance to plunge into a mountain stream. The ride, which is suitable for all ages, begins at the Silver Falls Ranch, a private 300-acre estate set in the heart of the valley. Tours pass through an 80-acre botanical reserve where more than 150 species of palm trees grow, then joins Pohakuhonu Creek on a trail lined with ferns, hibiscus blossoms and wild orchids. The destination is Sliver Falls, where the ranch’s namesake cascade feeds a refreshing pool of water. Riders can enjoy a refreshing dip while the guides prepare a picnic lunch.

Riding the Rim

The Big Island is home to several working cattle ranches, and visitors can saddle up to ride the ranges where Paniolo, aka Hawaiian cowboys, still work the herds. For a different take on trail riding that includes some breathtaking vistas, head to the east coast village of Kukuihaele, which overlooks the remote Waipio Valley. Flanked by tall ridges and facing the sea, this expansive cleft in the coastal mountain range is often referred to as the “Valley of the Kings,” as it was home to many of the island’s traditional chiefs. The 2.5 hour-ride takes you along the upper rim of the valley, and on to the top of Hiilawe Falls, which is one of the highest and most scenic cascades in the state. The views are unmatched, and if you want more, you can opt for a five-hour ride that continues upstream of the falls, following the fern-clad banks to the river and into a pristine rainforest to discover a series of hidden pools and smaller falls.

Hawaii Big Island, Waipio Valley Horseback Riding

A panoramic horseback perspective of Hawaii’s Waipio Valley from the upper rim. This verdant cleft in the mountains northeastern shore of the Big Island was once home to Hawaii’s kings. Photo: Sharron Miller/iStock

Moonlight on the Trail

The island of Oahu certainly has its share of exciting nightlife. But if your idea of a light show isn’t spinning-mirrored balls, check your calendar for the next full moon, and reserve a spot on Hawaii’s only moonlight horse ride. The adventure is staged from the Gunstock Ranch, which is located on the island’s less-settled north shore, far from city lights. The ranch overlooks Kalanai Point and the Malaekahana State Recreation Area, with the Koolau Mountains rising just behind. These 90-minute rides are scheduled to begin at dusk to take in twilight views of the mountains and ocean as you climb to a scenic overlook just in time to watch the moon rise over the Pacific. The ride back takes place under the light of the full moon. This ride is offered just two to three times a month, so it’s best to reserve well ahead.

SUP Paddleboard Hawaii

Hawaiian SUP Adventures

 

Like surfing, stand-up paddleboarding (SUP) has deep roots in Hawaiian culture, and the islands remain a hotbed for the growth of this evolving sport. The appeal is easy to understand. Compared to surfing, the learning curve is much easier. Novices can be cruising calm waters almost immediately, and venture into friendly shore breaks soon after gaining sea legs. At the other end of the spectrum, the sport’s innovators are pushing the limits with open ocean crossings and big wave rides. Whatever your interest and skill level, you will find ample opportunities in the Hawaiian Islands to take to the water on a SUP. To give some idea of the variety of adventures that await, here are three unique and memorable ways to enjoy the ride while standing up.

Hawaii SUP

Experienced stand up paddleboard enthusiasts are taking their sport into the waves, which actually represents a return to the sport’s original Hawaiian roots. Photo: iStock

River Runs

Kauai’s Hanalei River flows northward from the island’s mountainous interior to the north shore. The lower half of this winding and scenic waterway offers expanses of calm water that are free of motorized boat traffic. This is an ideal venue for mastering the basics of SUP riding, or for embarking on an upstream paddle through riverside taro farms and on into the forested banks of the Hanalei National Wildlife Refuge. Several companies in the Hanalei and Princeville areas can provide rental boards, but if you are new to the sport, it’s probably best to sign up for a tour. Guides typically provide instruction in the basics of the sport, which will make the experience far more enjoyable. If you plan to stay in the area, a good choice is the Hanalei Colony Resort.

Whale Watch

With a bit of practice and the right board, most people can comfortably manage a SUP in the ocean, provided they stay near a calm lee shore such as the western coastline of Maui. The Wailea area offers ideal conditions for a coastal paddle, along with a spectacular seasonal bonus. Between the months of December and April, humpback whales gather in the waters around Maui to mate, give birth and nurture their young. Dozens of tour boat operators offer whale-watching tours, but viewing these magnificent mammals from the deck of a motor vessel can’t compare to getting up close on a paddleboard. There’s no engine noise or crowded decks to come between you and the experience, and the SUP’s upright paddling position gives you a great vantage point for spotting breaching whales. Private tours and small group excursions are available, and though it helps to have some practice handling a board in small swells, guides can often coach even novice paddlers to success. The premier property to book when planning a SUP adventure is the Four Seasons Resort Maui at Wailea.

Wave Ride

As the sport evolves, a growing number of SUP riders are venturing into the surf, and in some cases riding big waves. This trend is actually a return to the roots, which came about when Hawaii’s first generation of surfing instructors started using longer boards and canoe paddles to provide themselves with a more versatile and mobile platform from which to teach. Novice riders don’t belong in crashing surf, but SUPs are ideal for riding smaller waves. Compared to the average surfboard, they are more stable and can catch less powerful waves earlier while providing longer rides. This makes them ideal for Waikiki Beach, where there are a number of rental concessions. Novices will want to include some lesson time, and are often able to catch some waves on the first session. If you are looking for a room near the beach, the Outrigger Waikiki on the Beach continues to provide a top-rated combination of value, location and amenities.

 

Diamond Head, Oahu, Hawaii

10 Things to Do on Oahu

 

The island of Oahu overflows with attractions and activities- far more than anyone could take in on a single visit. From this long list, we’ve chosen a few of our favorites. Some are simple and obvious, others not so well known, but certainly worth pursuing.

1  Enjoy a Close Shave

Though its made with ice and a sweet liquid, Hawaiian shave ice is much more than a snow cone. Rather than just trickle syrup over a cone of crushed ice, a frozen block is shaved into micro-fine particles that resemble powdery snow. Fresh fruit juices such as pineapple, guava, mango or passion fruit are then added, and absorbed by this fine powder to create a cool treat that is more creamy than crunchy.

2  Catch the Fireworks

Fireworks over Waikiki Beach. Photo: iStock, things to do on oahu

Fireworks over Waikiki Beach. Photo: iStock

There are few things more spectacular than a fireworks show over water, and in Honolulu, you don’t have to go far or wait long to enjoy such a spectacle. Each Friday night, the Hilton Hawaiian Village Beach Resort & Spa stages a traditional luau that ends with a big fireworks show over the water. You don’t have to attend the party to reap the benefits of the aerial light show, as the colorful explosions are visible from points all along Waikiki Beach. Make your way to the waterfront and settle in with a chair or blanket to enjoy the show.

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3  Ride an Outrigger

There are many ways to take to the water in Oahu, but one of the most memorable is aboard a traditional outrigger canoe. The fun escalates when you join a group paddle at Waikiki Beach, where long breaking waves of moderate height are ideal for canoe surfing. These rides are suitable for all age levels, and don’t require the balance or water skills of surfing. All you need do to catch a wave is dig in your paddle when the canoe master says go, and then sit back and enjoy the ride.

4  Watch the Ponies

You don’t need an ascot or oversize sun hat to take in a match at the Hawaii Polo Club, but you might want to pack a bathing suit and beach blanket. These Sunday afternoon matches have become a favorite island tradition. For a modest admission fee you can set up on the beach side of the playing field, where picnics and barbecues create an atmosphere akin to a stadium tailgate party. For added refreshment, the ocean is just a few steps away.

5  Tour the Harbor

Oahu, Arizona Memorial, Hawaii

USS Arizona Memorial. Photo: iStock

The USS Arizona Memorial at Pearl Harbor should be a must-do stop on any visitor’s list, as it is one of Hawaii’s most significant historic landmarks, and the final resting place of many U.S. servicemen. But there’s more to see and do at this busy naval port, enough to fill an entire day. Other noteworthy stops on a tour of our nation’s history could include a tour of the decommissioned USS Missouri, a trip through the USS Bowfin Submarine Museum & Park and a visit to the Pacific Aviation Museum Pearl Harbor, which tells the story of the air war.

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6  Eat a Plate Lunch

For a taste of how the locals eat, stop by one of the many downtown cafes or any of the roadside diners across the island that serve up a traditional plate lunch. Choose your meat from savory offerings such as kalua pork, Korean barbecue, chicken katsu, beef teriyaki or fresh mahimahi, and it will come with a couple scoops of rice and a helping of macaroni salad. Ask for the mixed plate if you want to sample two different meats.

7  Take in History

Delve into Hawaii’s rich cultural and natural history at Oahu’s Bernice Pauahi Bishop Museum. In addition to telling the story of the islands through displays and programs, it houses an extensive regionally-themed library, the world’s largest collection of Polynesian artifacts and a suite of flora and fauna displays that include some 13.5 million specimens of bugs. For a more in-depth experience, sign up for one of the numerous lecturers and educational presentations the museum offers.

8  Summit the East End

Koko Head Crater, Oahu, Hawaii

Koko Head Crater, Oahu. Photo: iStock

If you’ve done Diamond Head and are looking for another climb that ends with a big view, head to Koko Head District Park near the island’s easternmost point. Here, a relatively short but fairly steep trail will take you up 1,000 feet to the top of Koko Crater, where you can take in 360-degree views of Molokai Channel, Haunama Bay and the Kiliouou Valley. Once down from the summit, you can find easier paths in the nearby Koko Crater Botanical Garden, which is a prime example of a dry-land garden, with plants from the Americas, Hawaii, Madagascar, and Africa growing within a 60-acre crater.

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9  Get a Taste of Sugar

Discover a tasty bit of the island’s past at the Hawaii’s Plantation Village. This living history museum and botanical garden occupies the grounds of a former sugar plantation and tells not only the story of the agricultural process, but also the various ethnic groups who worked the cane fields and processing plants. The settlement consists of some 25 original and restored plantation-era homes and buildings, which house a diverse collection of artifacts and exhibits.

10  Ride a Rickshaw

Settle in and let your guide do the work and share some local knowledge on a pedal rickshaw trip through Honolulu’s eclectic Chinatown and notorious (but safe) red light district. Other highlights of the trip could include the Hawaiian Capitol building and landmarks such as the Iolani Palace. Along the way you’ll not only pick up some cultural and historical facts, but also some great insider tips on lesser-known places to visit.

 

Oahu Coastline

Hawaii’s Natural Wonders

 

Hawaii is home to so many spectacular sights it’s nearly impossible to picture just one iconic landscape when imagining the state’s natural beauty. Sprawling beaches, towering coastal cliffs, tropical rainforests, volcanoes and red-hot lava flows are just a few of the picturesque scenes the islands provide—not to mention the bounty of bays and lagoons that make for stunning views of the Pacific Ocean.