Tag Archives: Caribbean

Cuba El Nicho Waterfall

Caribbean Cascades: El Nicho Waterfalls, Cuba

 

Most everyone who visits the central-Cuban cities of Trinidad and Cienfuegos finds their way to El Nicho Falls. Located in the Escambray Mountains, this site is one of Cuba’s most popular natural attractions, drawing locals and visitor alike with the promise of beautiful views, natural beauty and the chance to cool off in sparkling pools of water.

The Parque El Nicho is a small and scenic national park hidden within a wildlife refuge. The cascades known as El Nicho are actually a trio of waterfalls that spill into natural ponds. The Hanabanilla River feeds the waterfalls as it meanders through lush vegetation before it begins to cascade over rocks and ravines into a series of cool, crystal-clear pools.

An easy 10-minute walk takes you to the first set of falls, while an additional half-hour reveals additional cascades, along with beautiful views of the mountains and valleys of central Cuba. Additional marked and unmarked trails within the park also lead to caves and forests that showcase the island’s exotic flora and fauna, including Cuba’s national bird, the tocororo. These birds thrive in the mountains, and are easy to identify with their plumage of purple, red, black and white.

The park is located just outside of Cienfuegos, the trip can take over an hour with the often rough and winding country roads that pass traditional villages, plantations and fields of sugarcane. If driving a rental car, you’ll want to leave plenty of time to take in the scenery and possibly stop off at a coffee, mango or banana plantation. If driving isn’t in your plans than join one of the several excursions that leave from Cienfuegos. You can also take a local bus right to the entrance of the park.

Saba Mt Scenery

Walk This Way: Mount Scenery, Saba

 

The highest point in the Kingdom of the Netherlands isn’t in Europe; it’s in the Caribbean. The high point of the island of Saba, known as Mount Scenery, rises from the ocean depths to a height of just under 3,000 feet. The slopes of this former volcano are covered in a lush array of foliage that changes with altitude. Hikers starting on lower slopes may wend their way over grassy meadows and redwood. Near the summit, the unique ecosystem known as the Elfin Forest is a mist-shrouded realm where giant tree ferns, mountain palms and elephant ears share space with groves of mountain mahogany. This elevated cloud forest is also home to numerous varieties of orchids and a range of rare tropical plants.

Saba’s 2,000 residents live in small villages connected by a single road, with other parts of the island linked by trials and footpaths. With barely a beach and no big resorts, hiking is a favorite pastime for the limited number of tourists who find their way to this quiet, charming island.

Turks & Caicos Queen Triggerfish

Into the Blue: Diving and Snorkeling the Turks & Caicos

 

Whether you are an avid diver in search of dramatic seascapes and rare wildlife, or a casual snorkeler looking to spend a relaxing afternoon on a sun-dappled reef, the Turks & Caicos can accommodate. For many years, these islands were a bit harder to reach, and didn’t have the same level of infrastructure as better-known watersports destinations such as the Cayman Islands, Cozumel and Bonaire. That’s all changed, and today the islands are a direct flight from several US cities, there are a number of dive operators and snorkel charters that specialize in delivering divers and snorkelers into some of the best dive sites in the region.

Parrotfish Turks & Caicos

Parrotfish are common sights on the reefs of the Turks & Caicos. These fish feed on hard corals, and excrete sand as a byproduct of their digestion process. Photo: Deborah Liljegren/iStock

Diver’s Delight

Divers love clear water and dramatic undersea landscapes. The Turks & Caicos have both. The islands sit on a massive underwater plateau, and just offshore this submerged precipice rises to within 40 feet of the surface, then plunges vertically into a mile-deep abyss. The upwelling along these walls nourishes robust reefs covered in plate corals and sponges and the depth brings out the big boys: leatherback turtles, sharks and rays.

Turks & Caicos Reef Shark

A reef shark patrols a steep coral slope off the island of Providenciales. When left unmolested, these animals pose no real threat to humans, and are a prize sighting when encountered. Photo: iStock

There are no rivers on the islands, and therefore no runoff to cloud the waters. With clear oceanic water flowing right up to the shore, it’s not uncommon for divers to find themselves suspended in waters as seemingly clear as air—a true thrill when you are floating weightless over the edge of one of the island’s towering undersea walls. Near Northwest Point on Providenciales, it seems like there’s a special site every hundred yards. Provo has the international airport and most of the tourist traffic, but that doesn’t’t mean it has a lock on great dive sites. On the opposite side of the chain, South Caicos also has miles of walls begging to be plumbed. A quarter-mile from shore will put your fins over more than a mile of cobalt blue water in the company of hammerhead sharks and eagle rays. On the other side of the Turks Passage, Salt Cay south of Grand Turk is literally surrounded by shallow sites that transition to walls.

The number of divers experiencing these riches is so low that dive operations on islands other than Provo and Salt Cay come and go. There is a liveaboard, the Turks & Caicos Aggressor II that primarily visits sites west and south of Provo. An alternative to the deep sites, there are hundreds of shallow reefs just waiting to be explored, and enough underwater variety in the seascape to keep even the most avid divers enthralled for days on end.

Puffer Fish Turks & Caicos

This big-eyed puffer fish may seem harmless and vulnerable, but when provoked or frightened, it will swell up and extend rows of toxin-tinged spikes to deter would-be attackers. Photo: iStock

Shallow Water Splendor

The walls may be the big attraction for divers, but the Turks & Caicos Islands have plenty to offer snorkelers as well. The area inside of the barrier reef that runs along the north shore of the Caicos Bank is chock full of shallow patch reefs that are overrun with parrotfish, big eyes, surgeonfish, yellowtails, creole wrasse and the whole gang of colorful tropicals. Coral Gardens in Grace Bay is a favorite, but get creative and you’ll find unnamed attractions everywhere.

Turks & Caicos Wreck the Dome

The waters of the Turks & Caicos hold a number of historic shipwrecks awaiting exploration. The clear waters and bright sunlight allow for views of the remains of The Dome, a prop for a French reality show. Photo: iStock

Off South Caicos there are conch shell mounds, formed where fishermen have been cleaning their conch for generations that cover a quarter of a football field. The most spectacular snorkel site may be the Endymion wreck off Sand Cay near Salt Cay. In 1790, a British fourth- rater, the HMS Endymion found a then-unmapped solitary coral pinnacle that soars up from several hundred feet to within a dozen feet of the surface. The rocks holed the hull and the Endymion sank where she struck. Today snorkelers can dive from the surface down to inspect cannons and anchors. The heavy keel timber of the Endymion was pinned to her hull with large copper rods which still stand, now embedded in the reef, like the strings of a lonely harp. In one spot, there’s a perfectly square hole in the reef, about four inches square, the impression left by a Royal Marine’s ammo pouch, with .50 caliber balls still in it. There are dozens of snorkel tour operators in Provo, and at least one or two on each of the other major islands.

 

USVI St John Northshore Beaches

50 Shades of Blue: St. John Beaches, USVI

 

Finding a gorgeous beach on St. John is easy- the island’s north shore is lined with one stunning strand after the next. Choosing a favorite beach might prove a bit more challenging. Island resident and photographer Christian Wheatley loves them all, and devotes much of his time to documenting them from land, sea and air. He’s either floating in the water, on a boat, flying overhead in a plane or helicopter or setting up a drone shot, always looking for a different perspective. To see more of his photos of the magnificent beaches of St. John and nearby islands, go to http://www.christianwheatley.com/

Jamaica Ocho Rios Dunns River Falls

Caribbean Cascades: Dunn’s River Falls, Ocho Rios, Jamaica

 

The falls at Dunn’s River are as ubiquitous to Jamaica’s national identity as Red Stripe beer, jerk chicken and reggae. It’s one of the most popular attractions on the island and the climb should be on everyone’s bucket list.

The Spaniards originally called the area “Las Chorreras” meaning waterfalls or springs. The name later evolved to Ocho Rios—eight rivers—although there actually only four in the area. Dunn’s River Falls is situated in the island’s north-central coast three miles west of the town of Ocho Rios. Backed by lowlands and rolling hills and fronted by glistening beaches, the falls provide a cool place to take a break from the island heat.

In addition to flowing into the sea, its described as a living falls, constantly regenerating itself by rebuilding the limestone face of the cataract with particles of calcium carbonate deposited by the flowing water.

Plan on spending at least two hours climbing from bottom to top, stopping for a dip in the pools of clear mountain waters tucked within the falls. Guides are available to make your trip go easier, often initiating a handholding chain of visitors who work their way up the 600-foot face. Some prefer to balance on the slippery rocks on their own but shoes with a griping sole are essential in either case.

It’s rare to find the Dunn’s River Falls void of crowds. And, when there is a cruise in town it’s almost impossible. Head there early in the day or time your visit when cruisers are in another port.

Hawksbill Turtle

Snorkeling with Sea Turtles

 

Any snorkel trip is better when there’s sea life to see, especially if it’s a sea turtle. An encounter with one of these aquatic ancient mariners never fails to delight. And thanks to an ever-growing range of conservation programs and nesting sanctuaries on islands across the Caribbean, you stand a good chance of seeing turtles at snorkel sites all across the region.

Green Turtle Caribbean

You don’t need to be snorkeling above a coral reef to find a green sea turtle, as they often patrol grass beds and sand-bottomed shallows, and can be quite tolerant of human presence. Photo: iStock

The turtles you are most likely to find swimming close to shore are the juveniles, with shells anywhere from the size of a dinner plate to a cafeteria tray. These youngsters, which may be anywhere from three years up to around age 20, are often curious, and may even approach snorkelers. Less often seen are the adults, which can reach sizes of five feet or more, and weight up to 500 pounds. If you do see a big turtle close to shore, it is most likely a mom, getting ready to come ashore and bury a nest of eggs in the sand, or resting up after doing so. These tired moms usually just want to be left alone, and you should respect their boundaries and not disturb their rest.

There are three species of sea turtles you may run into in Caribbean waters, and the best way to tell one from the other is by looking a their beaks. If the turtle has a bulled-shaped head and a short, flat beak, you’ve found a green turtle. Young green turtles are the most commonly seen turtles on Caribbean reefs, especially in destinations such as St. Thomas’ Turtle Bay, Grand Cayman’s West End and the west coast of Bonaire. They are often found cruising the shallows in search of small critters. As they mature, greens turn to a vegetarian diet, and you are more likely to find them grazing on sea grasses and algae.

Hawksbill Turtle

The hawksbill turtle takes its name from its bird-like beak. They use this beak to peck at sponges, and a single turtle can eat up to 1,000 pounds of sponges a year. Photo: Rainer von Brandis/iStock

Turtles with pointed bird-like beaks are aptly named hawksbills. Around islands such as St. Lucia, Barbados and Tobago, where reefs are rich in soft coral growth, you are likely to spot one nibbling on a sponge, which is their favorite food. The third turtle you may run across is the loggerhead, which get’s its name from its large, log-like head. These are less often seen on shallow reefs, as they roam far and wide in search of a meal. One of the best places to find loggerheads on a consistent basis is Akumal Bay on Mexico’s Rivera Maya coast.

Loggerhead Turtle

Loggerhead turtles have large blunt heads, which contain powerful jaws used to crack the shells of conchs and others shellfish, which make up much of this animal’s diet. Photo: H. Damke/iStock

The key to a successful interaction with a sea turtle is patience. A rapid, direct approach will likely startle the animal, and cause it to swim away. Instead, move in on sleeping or feeding turtles slowly and deliberately, and stay outside their comfort zone, which is usually around an arm’s length. If you come upon a swimming turtle, try to match its pace while moving in the same direction. You can then begin to subtly close the gap until you are cruising in formation, sometimes as close as a few feet apart. As long as you don’t seem like a threat, the turtle will likely keep going about its business, providing you with a long and very memorable encounter.

Tobago Cays Mayreau Salt Whistle, Grenadines

Caribbean Snapshots: Salt Whistle Bay, Mayreau, Grenadines

 

The smallest inhabited island in the Grenadines chain, Mayreau is home to just 300 people, and one of the most idyllic anchorages in the entire Caribbean. Salt Whistle Bay is a crescent moon-shaped body of water on the island’s northeast coast that offers calm, crystal clear waters for snorkelers, white sand beaches for sun worshipers and secure holding ground for the yachtsmen who drop anchor during a cruise through the islands.

Shore leave usually centers around the Salt Whistle Bay Beach Club, along with a smattering of local restaurants and open-aIr bars scattered along the beach. The island’s only settlement is just a short walk away, and the views from atop Station Hill take in the Tobago Cays, Canouan and Union Island.

Mayreau is served by an island ferry, but most visitors arrive by private boat, often during the course of a yacht charter originating in St. Vincent or Grenada. This relative isolation ensures that Salt Whistle Bay will never see cruise ship crowds, and will remain one of the Caribbean’s most memorable stopovers for those who do make landfall.

Jamaica Pelican Bar

Caribbean Beach Bars: Floyd’s Pelican Bar, South Coast, Jamaica

 

Forget market research and business plans. Delroy Forbes didn’t have a grand design when he created the Pelican Bar- he just wanted a place where he could pull up his fishing boat, relax and enjoy a cool drink. Since no such place existed near Jamaica’s Parottee Bay, he set out to build one.

In 2001, he started gathering driftwood and cutting acacia and red mangrove branches, which he ferried out to a sandbar in the bay. Over the course of two months, he pieced together a ramshackle over-water structure that earned its name from the sea birds that soon arrived to roost on the roof.

His first customers were local fishermen, who stopped by to enjoy a cool Red Stripe beer in the shade after a long day on the water. Word got around, and tourists soon joined the mix. Delroy, who is better known by his nickname Floyd, added rum drinks and other spirits to the drink menu, including his signature Pelican Special (ginger beer, sugar, lime, ice and rum). From time to time, he’d also grill up some fresh fish.

In 2004 Hurricane Ivan took the place down to nothing. But soon after the weather cleared, Floyd and his friends gathered more wood and put the bar back together. Today, it remains as one of the Caribbean’s most iconic and original bars, attracting everyone from island fishermen to celebrities on holiday. Stop in and you’ll find Floyd hosting the party, which begins mid morning and can last until midnight.

 

Martinique Pointe du Bout Bar

Caribbean Beach Bars: Coco Bar, Point de Bout, Martinique

 

It’s the next best thing to going to sea. Perched on pilings in a quiet cove on the western edge of Martinique’s Pointe de Bout resort area, the iconic Coco Bar invites beach goers to abandon their chaise lounges in favor of a shaded over- water barstool. In addition to serving up a range of libations—many based on various combinations of local fruit juices and rums—the bar offers a tasty array of light fare with a French flair.

Midday, the atmosphere remains low key, but as evening approaches, this thatched-roof dock becomes one of the best places on the island to toast the sunset. And after that first indulgence, it’s easy to linger on into the twilight, savoring the refreshing ocean breezes and panoramic views as the lights of Fort-de-France twinkle in the distance.