Tag Archives: Plan

Maui Road Trip
Hawaii, Kauai, Plan, Trip Ideas

Hawaii Road Trips: A Drive on the Edge

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Most every visitor to Maui knows about the Hana Highway, that 65-mile stretch of coastal highway that winds a serpentine path along the island’s southwest coast. Less known, and less traveled, is the coastal road known as the Kahekili Highway, which connects the north shore to the east-central town of Wailuku. This 20-miles stretch of narrow and sometimes cliff- hugging roadway is a source of automotive terror for some, and inspiration for others. Yet despite its reputation as the “death highway,” in reality, all that is needed to safely make this scenic journey is a light foot on the accelerator, a firm command of the steering wheel and a degree of common sense when negotiating some of the blind curves and narrow stretches that are hallmarks of the route.

Aerial Maui Highway

An aerial view of the Kahekili Highway reveals the circuitous nature of this roadway. The rewards for negotiating this narrow track are spectacular vistas of the Pacific Ocean. Photo: Eugene Kalenkovich/iStock

Large stretches of this roadway are paved as a single lane, and open to two- way traffic. That said, many locals feel that the best way to make the drive is in a clockwise direction, with a morning start to ensure plenty of daylight, because its not a road most drivers would feel comfortable negotiating in the dark. Drivers starting from resorts along the island’s west coast should make their way to Lahaina, and continue up the Honopilani Highway.

Lahaina Maui

Road trips on Maui’s Kahekili Highway often begin in the west coast village of Lahaina. It’s a good idea to start early, and allow plenty of time for stops to take in the sights. Photo: Ryan Yong/iStock

After a dozen or so miles of coastal development, the first big views of the ocean come at DT Fleming Park. From there, the road winds around the shores of Honokahua and Honolua Bays, then turns east toward the island’s northernmost point. You’ll probably see some cars parked along the roadway as mile marker 38.5, as this is the site of the famous Nakalele Blowhole. It’s worth a stop and the short hike over lava rocks to witness the spectacle of wave-driven spray erupting from a void in the shoreline to rise as high as 100 feet in the air.

Maui Blowhole

At the northernmost point of Maui, a hidden cavern in the lava rock shoreline funnels crashing waves through the vents of the Nakalele Blowhole, creating giant clouds of spray. Photo: iStock

After viewing the blowhole and the area’s other famous sight—a rock with a heart-shaped hole carved by wave action—many drivers will drive another mile on the narrowing two-lane roadway to view the Olivine Tide Pool. From there most will turn back and return the way the came. Those with a sense of adventure keep going, and as the roadway crests a ridge above Kahakuloa Bay, the pavement goes to a single lane. A half-mile on, the Braddah Chic’s food trailer perches on the edge of the roadway, high above the ocean. This local landmark is a favorite stop for fruit smoothies.

For the next eight miles, this single lane of asphalt winds its way up and down steep hillsides, with stretches too narrow for meeting traffic to pass. This is where common sense comes into play, as drivers may have to plan ahead by pausing at a wide spot to avoid head-on meetups with oncoming traffic.

Narrow Road Maui

When the Kahekili Highway narrows to a single lane, drivers can ensure their safety by slowing down and approaching blind curves with a degree of caution. Photo: iStock

Once the road returns to two-lane status, it’s just a few more miles to one of west Maui’s most spectacular settings. The Iao Valley State Park is a 4,000- acre preserve that extends ten miles into the heart of the West Maui Mountains. Visitors can drive to the Kepaniwai Heritage Gardens and the Hawaii Nature Center.

Heritage Gardens Maui

The Kepaniwai Heritage Gardens is filled with elements that showcase Hawaii’s multi-cultural mix, which includes Asian, European and Indo-Pacific influences. Photo: iStock

You’ll need to put on your walking shoes to see the park’s most famous attraction, the 1,200-foot-tall spire known as the Iao Needle. It’s an easy half-mile walk from the parking lot to an observation deck, on a trail that winds through verdant tropical landscapes and crosses a running stream. If the walk works up your appetite, it’s just a short drive in to the towns of Wailuku and Kahului, where you can nosh on everything from traditional plate lunches and poke bowls to upscale sit-down dinners.

Iao Needle Maui

The Iao Needle is one of Maui’s most famous landmarks. This volcanic spire is located in its namesake state park, which offers miles of hiking trails and scenic overlooks. Photo: Jojo Florece/iStock

Cozumel Benito Fountain
Cozumel, Mexico, Plan, Trip Ideas

Just Back from Cozumel

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Some three decades after my trip to Cozumel, I was back for the umpteenth visit – but for the first time in nearly five years. I knew there would be changes and new development, but hoped that the island still retained its laid-back, small town vibe. Like many Caribbean destinations, Cozumel has become a major stop on the cruise ship circuit, and there are occasions when six or more of the big ships arrive at the same time to disgorge up to 10,000 day-trippers.

To really experience all the island has to offer, you need to stay a while. Some longer-term visitors escape to one of the upscale resorts that lie well south of the town of San Miguel. These properties become oases of leisure that cloister guests in a wealth of all-inclusive indulgences and diversions, but they also remove you from the local essence of the destination.

A Downtown Palace

Rather than head south, I checked in to the Cozumel Palace. This downtown landmark was originally known as the Hotel Plaza Las Glorias. After it was acquired by the Palace hotel group, it underwent a full renovation that transformed this 176-room property into an all-suite hotel with luxury touches such as two-person Jacuzzi whirlpools, a full-service spa, two infinity-edge pools and four specialty restaurants. Dollar for dollar, the Plaza represents one of the best values on the island. Like many Cozumel resorts, the Palace offers an all-inclusive rate plan that covers all meals. But don’t think warming trays and buffet lines, because the Plaza’s culinary team takes things to the next level, and no matter which of the resort’s dining venues you opt for, you’ll enjoy cuisines that are a level above the expected.

Cozumel Palace

The landmark downtown hotel now known as the Cozumel Palace has been upgraded and transformed into one of the island’s more luxurious options. Photo: Ione Ascanio Green/Cozumel Palace

Beyond the waterfront

Another reason for staying at Plaza was its walking distance location to downtown San Miguel. When you walk the waterfront, you may think there’s nothing more to this town than timeshare kiosks and duty-free shops. But as you explore a few streets inland, you’ll begin to discover a variety of eclectic and low-key shops that don’t just serve the cruise ship crowd. Cozumel is Mexico’s equivalent of Key West, and it has long attracted artists and artisans from all parts of Mexico. One of the best known is Galo Ramirez. Though originally from Mexico City, Galo has been a fixture of the Cozumel art scene for more than 25 years. His work in acrylics, charcoals, and oils often depicts subjects such as jazz musicians or island scenes, and he is also an accomplished sculptor. He and his equally talented wife Niurka live and work at their studio on 25th Avenue, where he welcomes all who drop in.

Cozumel Art Gallery

Galo and Niurka Ramirez pose in front of their namesake gallery on San Miguel’s 25th Avenue. Galo is the best-known member of Cozumel’s thriving artist community. Photo: Pierce Hoover

Dine Around

There are a number of charming local eateries to be discovered when wandering the back streets of San Miguel. As you might expect, there are quite a few that serve traditional Mexican dishes and regional cuisines, and two worth checking out are and Diegos and Pescadaria San Carlos. When looking for a change from the usual regional fare, my favorite find is La Cocay on Calle Ocho Norte. Slightly upscale but completely unpretentious, this local favorite serves a savory Mediterranean menu, accompanied by a respectable wine list and live music on certain nights. Closer to the central square, the corner bistro known as Le Chef is famous for it’s fish burgers and lobster/bacon sandwiches, while a stroll to the south side will bring you to Chocolateria Isla Bella. This family-run confectionary creates fresh and tempting chocolate creations each day.

La Cocay Cozumel

Locals and in-the-know visitors to Cozumel tend to avoid the waterfront restaurants in favor of venues such as La Cocay, which is located a few blocks inland. Photo: Pierce Hoover

The Return of the Locals

One of the more charming aspects of life on Cozumel has always been the evening activity around the central waterfront square. As night falls and the cruise ships depart, the town folk would gather on the square, often to the accompaniment of a band playing in the landmark gazebo. In 2016, the square was given a major facelift, which included the removal of the old bandstand in favor of a larger stage. Some decried these changes as the end of an era. An evening stroll from the Cozumel Palace revealed that this wasn’t the case. Families, young couples and old friends could all be found taking in the night air, and children were playing in the square’s latest addition, which is a lighted display of dancing water fountains. Similar activity was taking place at Quintana Roo Park, which is adjacent to the Municipal Palace. Here, parents and grand parents bring youngsters for a lively scene includes food carts, vendors, face painting booths and nightly concerts.

Cozumel Park

The clock tower is one of the enduring landmarks on Cozumel’s central plaza. At night, this area becomes a gathering point for locals, and often features live music. Photo: Pierce Hoover

Life’s a Beach

Though the Cozumel Palace is a waterfront hotel, like many similar properties located on the island’s north and central coast, it lacks a true beach. Cozumel’s best beaches lie several miles to the south. Some stretches of sand are accessible only to guests of the cloistered resorts scattered along this coast, but others are the sites of beach clubs. These venues cater to daytime visitors, with amenities that go beyond beach chairs and restrooms to include full-service bars and dining, water sports and entertainment. The key to a good day at a beach club is avoiding the crowds that taxi down from the cruise ship docks. To maintain personal space on the sand, some clubs limit the number of guests admitted. This is the case of what I consider the island’s current best club, which is known as Nachi Cocom. This waterfront day park sits on the north end of San Francisco Beach, flanked by jungle on each side, and facing the snorkel and dive sites of famed Palancar Reef. Daily capacity is limited to just 130 guests, who enjoy water sports, beach massage and a four-course lunch.

Nachi Cocom Beach Cozumel

A select number of beach clubs such as Nachi Cocom are scattered across the island’s southwest coast. This area combines calm water with some of the island’s best sand beaches. Photo: Nachi Cocom

In the Water

It was scuba divers who first put Cozumel on the travel map. Beginning in the 1970s, the first wave of traveling divers returned from the island with stories of tall coral reefs covered in rich growths of multi-hued sea fans and sponges. By the late 90s, Cozumel had grown into one of the most popular diving destinations in the Caribbean, with more than 90 individual dive operators on the island. Too often, this sort of popularity can spoil the very things that make a place special. Not so with Cozumel’s reefs. Thanks to decades of protection within a marine park, and a constant flow of nourishing oceanic water, the reefs are in excellent health, and rich with fish life.

Cozumel Dive Wreck

The shipwreck known as the Felipe Xicoténcatl is a former Mexican naval destroyer that was sunk intentionally as a fish haven and attraction for scuba divers. Photo: Walt Stearns

I never miss a chance to dive and snorkel when on Cozumel, and on this latest visit, I started with an exploration of the island’s signature shipwreck, the Felipe Xicoténcatl, which is now home to a very large moray eel. The following morning, I boarded the Aqua Safari boat for a longer trip to the southern reefs. The most famous of these is Palancar, where a wall-like line of coral formations rise two stories above the sand, and are riddled with a maze-like network of canyons and tunnels. After the dive, we moved closer to shore to join the fleet of snorkel boats that visit sites in the National Coral Reef Marine Park.

Guadeloupe Marie Galante Beach
Bahamas-Out Islands, Caribbean, Cayman Islands, Central America, Guadeloupe, Nicaragua, Plan, St. Vincent & the Grenadines, Trip Ideas

Off the Path Caribbean Beaches

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The great thing about staying at a Caribbean Beach resort is that a prime patch of sand is usually just a few steps away. The downside is that you probably aren’t the only one within walking distance of that sand, and you’ll likely end up sharing a beach lounge with a number of other vacationers. Fortunately, there are still islands all across the region where you can find seclusion on the shore. To truly escape the crowds, you’ll have to venture beyond the range of cruise ships, and separate yourself from the resort districts by taking a puddle jumper or water taxi to a place less visited. We’ve come up with five of our favorite islands that are off the beaten path but reachable, and which reward those who make the journey with some of the most pristine and uncrowded beaches in the Caribbean.

Anse Canot, Marie Galante, Guadeloupe

Guadeloupe isn’t an island; it is a group of islands that together form an overseas region of France. And while the main island of Guadeloupe has its share of beachfront resorts, outliers such as Marie Galante are a different story. With no airport, this 60-square-mile island can only be reached by ferry or freighter. Once there, travelers will discover the Caribbean of yesteryear, where cane fields and farms spread across the landscape, and the only high rises are the traditional stone windmills that perch on hillsides. In a nod to the 21st century, there are taxis on call and cars for rent. After touring the back roads for a bit, and possibly touring the Rhum Belle Distillery, head to the undeveloped shores of Anse Canot. There are no beach bars, and no facilities, but you will find plenty of sand that is all yours to enjoy.

marie galante guadeloupe

Farming is the number one activity on Guadeloupe’s Marie Galante island, which means that the relatively small number of visitors can often stake out their own private stretch of beach. Photo: Michel Letertre/Flickr

Point of Sand, Little Cayman Island

This deserted swatch of sand stands in sharp contrast to the sophisticated luxuries of Grand Cayman’s Seven Mile Beach. Little Cayman is the smallest and least developed member of the Cayman Islands group, with fewer than 200 full-time residents, and a single road ringing the shores. Visitors arrive aboard a small aircraft that lands on an unpaved strip, and there is no town to speak of, just a handful of small beach resorts scattered along the southern side of the island. It’s a great place for fishermen, divers, and nature lovers, who are vastly outnumbered by iguanas and rare birds. Bikes and motor scooters are often the preferred method of transport, but rental jeeps are also available. Whatever transportation you choose, the coast road will lead you east to the tip of the island, and Point of Sand Beach. The powdery white sands of this beach are soothing to the feet and pleasing to the eyes, as turquoise shallows extend to a snorkeling reef that marks the boundary with blue water.

little cayman

With only a handful of small resorts scattered around its undeveloped coast, Little Cayman Island provides almost total seclusion for those who make their way to beaches such as Point of Sand. Photo: Ray Bodden/Flickr

Otto Beach, Little Corn Island, Nicaragua

Even well traveled Caribbean veterans don’t know about the Corn Islands. Sitting 40 miles off the coast of Nicaragua, these small islands are way off the radar, and the cruise ship routes. It’s possible to fly from the mainland to a simple airfield on Big Corn Island, but to reach Little Corn will require a boat ride in a panga-style water taxi. Once there, plan on walking, because no motorized vehicles are allowed on this two-mile-long strip of sand and jungle. Footpaths connect the limited number of beachfront hostels and guesthouses that cater to adventurous backpackers and savvy travelers. There is one paved walkway that leads from the island’s only village to several east-side beaches, but for the ultimate in seclusion, you’ll want to follow a trail through the island’s wooded interior to the north shore, where there’s a good chance you will have the sands of Otto Beach all to yourself.

little corn island

There’s never a crowd at Little Corn Island’s Otto Beach, because getting there begins with a boat ride from Big Corn, followed by a mile of walking on a wooded cross-island trail. Photo: Brian Johnson & Dane Kantner/Flickr

Pink Sand Beach, Harbour Island, Bahamas

Given the number of rich and famous that have visited, it would be hard to call Harbour Island a hidden gem. But it is certainly the crown jewel of the Bahamian Out Islands, and a place where a select few travelers can enjoy the seclusion that privilege provides. The island can only be reached by a puddle jumping flight, followed by a land and then a water taxi ride. Forget owning one of the quaint and colorful cottages that front the flower-lined streets of Dunmore Town that would set you back a minimum of seven figures. But for the price of an upscale Caribbean beach hotel, you can rent a bungalow that’s just steps from the island’s famous pink sand beach. This rose-colored strand has been featured on magazine covers and in countless fashion shoots, but on any given day, there are surprisingly few folks out sunning on this three-mile expanse.

harbour island pink

Harbour Island is famous for the pink sand beach that runs the length of its eastern shore. The absence of large hotels on the island keeps things from getting crowded. Photo: iStock

Petit Tabac, Tobago Cays, St. Vincent and the Grenadines

Remember that deserted beach where Johnny Depp’s character was marooned on the first Pirates of the Caribbean movie? It’s actually Petit Tabac, which is the smallest of five islands that make up the Tobago Cays. You can reach these uninhabited bits of land aboard a chartered sailboat, or by hopping a water taxi from nearby Mayreau or Union Islands. Bring provisions, and plan on a day trip, because as there are no hotels for overnighting—or any other signs of human impact. The Cays lie within a marine park, and are surrounded by coral reefs that attract divers and snorkelers. The scenic beach on Petit Tabac is shaded by coconut palms, and there is good snorkeling just a short swim from shore.

petit tabac

One of the five uninhabited islands in the Tobago Cays, Petit Tabac is a popular nesting spot for hawksbill, leatherback and green turtles. Photo: Christian Lendl/Flickr

old san juan
Caribbean, Plan, Puerto Rico, Trip Ideas

Just Back from Old San Juan

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A visit to Old San Juan is a trip back in time. It is a place of blue cobblestone streets that glisten when wet with tropical rains; brightly painted houses with balconies overflowing with bougainvillea; and iron gates protecting hidden patios. All are part of the magic. This historic district is filled with Spanish-Colonial buildings dating back to the 16th and 17th century, set within 20- foot-high walls. There are famous landmarks such as the fortress El Morro, San Cristo Arch and Parque de las Palomas. But equally intriguing are the quiet neighborhoods that open to community squares, and the unique shops and restaurants tucked into hidden alleys. Old San Juan may have been temporarily dampened by the rains and winds of Hurricane Maria, but the spirit lives on. After two months without power in 2017, the town has regained its fortitude and lives on stronger today.

Hotel El Convento

Once the Carmelite Convent, established in 1651, this cloister housed nuns for 252 years. In 1903 the building was transformed to a retail store and dance hall, and then became a hotel in 1959. This was during the time when Ricardo Alegría director of The Institute of Puerto Rico Culture established his urban renewal program to save all of the historic buildings in Old San Juan. Over the next three decades, the hotel changed ownership and management and underwent various renovations. The current rendition reopened in 1997 with much of the original structure restored. The building’s large courtyard is surrounded by tiered balconies draped in philodendron that overflow to the patio below. Arched hallway corridors lead to rooms, decorative tile floors have been restored, and the décor features wrought iron fixtures, dark woods and grand chandeliers. Today’s hotel is a blend of old world charm and new world conveniences.

San Juan El Convento

Balconies at Hotel El Convento look out onto an inner courtyard that is shaded by a massive, 300-year-old nispero fruit tree that was brought from Spain as a seedling. Photo: Debbie Snow

Once a favorite with the rich and famous, the hotel now receives visiting dignitaries and guests from around the world. The first two floors are used for dining and the top three are guest rooms that open to the courtyard below. On the roof is a sundeck and small pool overlooking the city. With walls of sunbaked clay three feet thick, El Convento was build to withstand hurricanes, so it’s no surprise that it came through Hurricane Maria with minor damage and never really closed. It was used to house Coast Guard personnel right after the storm, but within two months was back to receiving paying clients. The hotel has had the tradition of serving guests wine and cheese from 6 to 7 p.m. nightly, giving guests an opportunity to chat about their day before heading out to dinner. The ground floor restaurant Café Nispero sits under a giant 300-year-old nispero tree, serving a huge breakfast, and open for lunch and dinner as well.

Made in Puerto Rico

Shopkeepers reopened in Old San Juan just over a month after hurricane Maria, even though they were without electricity. Today, the power is on and stores are back on track with shelves and racks once again stocked with products from the island. Walk down Calle Fortaleza and the aroma of lavender will guide you to the all-natural apothecary of Marisel Herbal Bath & Body. Her products are handmade on site and include a natural line of skin and body care products. Favorites include the salt scrubs made from Puerto Rican sea salt and infused with lavender or even chocolate. Medicinal products like Breath Better, Good Bye Pain and Relieve Stress are popular with today’s stress levels. Hand made soap, lip balm and teas can go home in your carry on. A chemist by trade and yoga enthusiast, Marisel offers yoga on site as well as classes for those wanting to make soaps and skincare products. Another shop featuring locally designed and manufactured products is Concalma. The business opened in 2006 offering a line of simple tote bags. Today new colors and designs have been added to the collection, including an assortment of backpacks, cargo bags, and clutches. For artwork and tchotchkes made in Puerto Rica, look to Mundo Taino, which has two locations in Old San Juan. Paintings, pottery, masks, engravings, ceramics and even coffee and rum are sold in the shops. It’s an ideal place to shop for gifts or home décor. And while you are there, pick up the CD of the El Yunque rainforest sounds, which you might hear when entering the store.

San Juan Marisel Bath

Marisel Herbal Bath & Body is an artisanal apothecary that offers everything from teas for an upset stomach and oils for allergies to body exfoliants and creamy lip balms. Photo: Debbie Snow

Spoon Food Tours

One of the best ways to get to know a town is by walking the streets and tasting the food. If you want some background on the buildings and streets of Old San Juan, as well as a taste of the local delicacies, there’s no better way than a Spoon Food Tour. The Old San Juan highlight tours starts in the morning at Plaza de Quinto Centenario. The square commemorates the 500-year anniversary of the New World, and the totem pole in the middle pays homage to the Taino Indians, the island’s indigenous inhabitants. The first food stop on the tour is for café con leche and Mallorca, the sweet bun with ham and cheese, buttered and pressed and sprinkled with powder sugar. Here you’ll explore the Cuartel de Ballajá and the location of Café Don Ruiz. The cafe’s building was used as barracks during the Spanish American War and in WWII; it was transformed into a hospital. Today it houses the Museum of the Americas. As you walk south toward the center of Old San Juan, you’ll stop off for another morning favorite, a quesito, which is a pastry filled with cream cheese. Lunch is the Puerto Rico national dish, mofongo, which is made to order at Hecho en Casa, and followed by a Puerto Rican made tropical fruit popsicle. A walk along the Paseo de la Princesa leads to the final stop at the Princesa Gastrobar, which serves local Puerto Rican cuisine in a hidden garden. The spot was once the site of the city’s jail. Begin the meal with a mojito and end with a local fish stew in a sofrito base with a view of San Juan Bay.

Spoon Full Tours San Juan

Spoon Food Tours showcases the diversity of Old San Juan’s culinary scene, including traditional island favorites like garbanzada, a fish stew served at Princesa Gastrobar. Photo: Debbie Snow

The Forts

The forts of Old San Juan have withstood centuries of storms, and were largely unfazed by the Hurricanes of 2017. Both are open and offering free admission for a limited time. The island’s most iconic landmark, Castillo de San Felipe del Morro, is usually known simply as El Morro. This massive stone edifice juts out into San Juan Bay, with 140-ft high ramparts that rise above the cliffs at the harbor entrance. El Morro was built in stages, growing from a simple four-cannon blockhouse established in the early 1500s to a sprawling six-level citadel with outer walls 15 feet thick. It has defended the harbor from pirates and Dutch and British forces, and pressed into service by the US Army during the Second World War. Today, it is a United Nations World Heritage Site, recognized as the oldest Spanish fort in the Western Hemisphere.

San Juan San Cristobal

Though less well known than El Morro, Old San Juan’s Fort San Cristóbal is an equally important and interesting element of the city’s history, and well worth a visit. Photo: Debbie Snow

Head east on Calle Norzagaray from El Morro and you will find San Juan’s “other fort.” Though it sees fewer visitors than it’s famous counterpart, Fort San Cristóbal is actually larger than El Morro, as it spreads across 27 acres of high ground on the edge of the original walled city. Following a Dutch raid in 1625, a small fortification was created to protect the city from land attacks. A century later, an ambitious construction project created the present day fortress, complete with moats, bridges and tunnels. San Cristóbal’s defenses subsequently thwarted an attack by British troops, and saw it’s final military action in 1898, during the Spanish-American War. Today, visitors can wander the bunkers, barracks and hidden tunnels of San Cristóbal, or sign up for ranger-guided tours that delve into the history of the fort.

Favorite Eateries

Soon after the hurricanes passed, a number of restaurants in Old San Juan reopened part time with limited service. Today, most all are back serving full menus at regular hours. San Juan’s culinary choices are many and varied. The cozy, romantic and eclectic Verde Mesa works with fresh organic ingredients to deliver Mediterranean, French and Caribbean influenced meals with plenty of vegetarian options. The lines outside Casa Cortez are starting to form again. This local favorite serves breakfast, lunch and dinner with special chocolate-infused concoctions of grilled cheese, croquetas de jamon with chocolate and grilled salmon with a savory chocolate sauce. After dining, many patrons buy a box of truffles or some chocolate bars to take home. For local food, Hecho en Casa is the place, as all meals are made fresh to order. This restaurant is also a stop on the Spoon Food Tour. Several coffee shops sell Puerto Rican grown beans and blends. For some fresh brew and a quick meal, Cuartro Sombras has some of Puerto Rico’s best coffee. It’s a place where you’ll want to take home a few bags and have a pastry, salad or sandwich while you are there. After a morning walk to El Morro, stop off at Café Don Ruiz for a morning cup of coffee and a Mallorca, the favorite breakfast treat from Spain.

Casa Cortez San Juan

The Casa Cortés ChocoBar is operated by the chocolate-producing Cortés family, serving meals that incorporate their chocolates, and showcase their family’s art collection. Photo: Debbie Snow

 

USVI St. Croix
Caribbean, Plan, Trip Ideas, U.S. Virgin Islands

St. Croix Returns

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The island of St. Croix escaped the devastating effects of 2017’s Hurricane Irma, but two weeks later, Hurricane Maria roared in as a category five storm. The lights went out, and homes and businesses across the island sustained damage. But soon after the wind and rain passed, the rebuilding began, and before spring of 2018, many of the island’s resorts were once more welcoming visitors, and shops and restaurants were open for business. One of the best ways to contribute to the renewal is by rewarding yourself with a St. Croix vacation. You’ll enjoy some relaxing beach time bliss, with the added enjoyment of knowing that you are supporting the relief efforts. To help you plan, here’s the latest news from the island.

Fort Christiansvaern

Iconic island landmarks such as Fort Christiansvaer were spared by Hurricane Maria, and reopened after power was restored and debris were removed. Photo: Gary Felton/USVI Department of Tourism

The First to Return

One of the first hotels to bounce back after the storm was the Club Comanche Hotel St. Croix, which reopened on September 26, 2017. One of the island’s landmark properties, The Buccaneer, sustained relatively minor damage, but put a halt to guest reservations while housing relief workers in September and October of last year. The resort returned to normal operations on the first of November in 2017. Several other resorts were also back up and running in time for the winter season. The Cottages by the Sea required only minor repairs and cleanup, and once electricity was restored, began welcoming guests in early November. Two additional resorts, the Palms at Pelican Cove and the Sand Castle on the Beach, are now back to normal operations, and accepting reservations for spring and beyond.

Buccaneer Mermaid Restaurant

On the north coast of St. Croix, the Mermaid at the Buccaneer resort is once more open and serving meals with a generous helping of ocean views. Photo: Buccaneer

Out West

On the island’s west end, the long anticipated opening of The Fred was delayed, but the property made it through the storms relatively unscathed. The planned opening date of December 1, 2017, was moved forward to January of 2018. The nearby Frederiksted Hotel is now also open for business.

In the Works

The Chenay Bay Beach Resort is welcoming guests, but the on-site restaurant has yet to reopen. Fortunately, there are a number of restaurants in the vicinity that are open and serving. The Hotel on the Cay reopened its doors to guests on December 1, 2017. Restoration work was ongoing through the spring, and the pool reopened in March. At that time there was limited food service provided by the resort, as the independently owned beach restaurant remained closed.

Still to Come

The Divi Carina Bay Resort & Casino was originally slated to remain closed through most of 2018. But following a full assessment of needed repairs, the resort management moved the tentative reopening date to early May, pending any unanticipated construction or supply delays. The Renaissance St. Croix Carambola Beach Resort & Spa anticipates reopening in the fourth quarter of 2018, but at this point there is no official date.

Island Happenings

One of the Caribbean’s signature culinary events is on track for the first week of April. The St. Croix Food and Wine Experience will kick off on April 5, with a theme of Resiliency in Action, and proceeds from the four-day event going to recovery efforts. Highlights will include the popular Wine in the Warehouse gathering, the Cork & Fork/Giving Table dinner and the Reef Responsible Fish Fry. Another local tradition that will return to downtown Christiansted is the weekly Art Thursday gathering, when galleries, jewelry studios and retail stores in the town’s historic district stay open late, and downtown becomes a gathering place for art and culture. Another island favorite, the St. Croix Agricultural Fair, has been rescheduled from its original February dates to May 26 to 27, 2018. The fair features vendors selling a variety of goods and locally made products, and exhibits sponsored by St. Croix schools, youth groups, and public service groups.T

Food And Wine Fest St. Croix

The St. Croix Food and Wine Experience returns to the island on the first week of April, with proceeds going to hurricane recovery efforts. Photo: St. Croix Food & Wine

Fiji Yasawa
Islands, Oceania, Plan, Tahiti, Trip Ideas

Fiji or Tahiti?

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So you want to escape to a tropical island in the South Pacific. But which one? Tahiti seems amazing, but you’ve also heard good things about Fiji. To help you start packing, here’s the low down on what to expect, and some of the differences between these two idyllic destinations.

The Islands

For starters, neither of the destinations known as Tahiti or Fiji are a single island. There is an island named Tahiti, but it is just one of a number in the group of islands also known as Tahiti, and sometimes called French Polynesia. In addition to the “big island,” the two that attract the vast majority of tourism are Bora Bora and Moorea. All of these are mountainous, volcanic islands ringed by lagoons. The country of Fiji includes more than 300 islands, ranging in size from 4,000-square-mile Viti Levu to small and in some cases uninhabited islands—like the one Tom Hanks landed on in the movie Castaway.

Tikehau

The barrier reefs that ring many of the Islands of Tahiti also include small outer islands known as motus. Visitors can arrange to make day trips to islands like Tikehua by boat. Photo: Grégoire Le Bacon/Tahiti Tourisme

Getting There

If you are starting from North America, both Fiji and Tahiti are a fairly long hop across the Pacific. A direct flight from Los Angeles takes 8.5 hours to Tahiti, and a bit more than 10 hours to Fiji. Both destinations are served by a single international airport, which are located on the largest islands. From there resorts are a shuttle bus, ferry ride or an inter-island flight away. In many cases, the transition from airport to resort will be shorter in Tahiti, as you’ll either be taking a ferry or short flight to Moorea, where hotels are ten minutes to a half-hour from the runway, or a flight to Bora Bora, with similar transfer times once you land. Travel in Fiji is a lot more variable. Resorts on the west and north coasts of Viti Levu can be less than a half-hour away, while properties to the south will require a two-hour-plus van ride. There are a number of resorts scattered across the smaller islands, and getting there could involve a single flight and a boat ride, or a series of transfers that take the better part of an afternoon.

Stingray Lagoons

A number of the Islands of Tahiti are ringed in barrier reefs that create calm water lagoons ideal for snorkeling. Stingray encounters are a favorite activity at many resorts. Photo: Tahiti Tourisme

The Resorts

Tahiti is famous for it’s over-water bungalows. This style of resort originated in these islands, and the shallow lagoons of Bora Bora and Moorea are home to dozens of resorts with over-water accommodations. These offer wow factors such as glass floor panels, plunge pools and over-water hammocks on private terraces, and steps that lead directly from rooms into the water. There are no such resorts in Fiji, where the usual resort scenario is a group of cottages known as bures, which are set in garden-like settings on the shore. Another difference is the usual size of the resorts. Tahiti has a number of 200-plus room properties that deliver a full range of amenities that include multiple dining options and some of the most opulent spas on the planet. A stay in Fiji more likely means a small resort with a few dozen rooms or less, with a central dining hall and a boutique spa.

Overwater Bungalows

The Islands of Tahiti are famous for over-water bungalows. Islands such as Bora Bora and Moorea are home to a number of resorts that offer this type of iconic accommodation. Photo: Alice Izal/Tahiti Tourisme

On the Water

With warm Pacific waters washing the shores of both island groups, it’s no surprise that water sports are a central focus in both Tahiti and Fiji. That said, the experiences can be different. The aforementioned over-water bungalows of Tahiti immerse guests in an aquatic panorama, and the lagoons that surround these resorts offer calm conditions and clear water for snorkeling right form the beach. The corals aren’t as colorful as in Fiji, but there’s plenty of tropical fish, plus the thrill of seeing rays and even sharks swimming by. Fiji also offers snorkeling, but more often on near- shore reefs that could be either a swim or a boat ride away. Scuba diving is what puts Fiji on many travelers’ list. The destination is known as the soft coral capital of the world, and reefs explode in vibrant growths of red, yellow, purple and indigo sea fans. Above the surface, both destinations will please paddlers, sailors, fishermen and even surfers at certain times of year. In Tahiti, these activities are more likely to take place within the lagoon, while Fiji offers sheltered bays that open to blue water channels.

Fiji Coral Reef

Fiji is world famous for its colorful soft coral formations. Some of the most spectacular are growths found off the island of Taveuni at Rainbow Reef. Photo: Paradise Taveuni Hotel

On the Land

You can hike across wooded valleys and climb to elevated overlooks on the islands of Tahiti, but there are more chances for land-based adventures in Fiji, which offers more waterfalls, taller mountains, bigger rainforests and even a white water river. From a cultural aspect, there are also significant differences. Tahiti is more cosmopolitan, and permeated with elements of French culture. English is fairly widely spoken at the resorts, but a visit to the capital of Papeete is bit like a trip to a tropical version of Paris. Get outside the few major towns on Fiji’s big island, and you’ll discover an authentic slice of traditional island life. For many, a highlight of their vacation is an invite to a traditional lovo feasts, or a kava ceremony.

Kava Fiji

The kava ceremony is a mainstay of tradition Fijian culture. Visitors are invited to share a beverage made from the root of the yaqona plant, which creates a sensation of mild relaxation. Photo: Chris McLennan/Tourism Fiji

Divi Trees Aruba
Aruba, Belize, Caribbean, Central America, Cuba, Dominican Republic, Jamaica, Plan, Trip Ideas

Caribbean Volunteer Vacations

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If checking in to a Caribbean beach resort seems a bit self-indulgent, you might want to check out some of the ways you can give back while traveling to the islands. There are a number of organizations that promote and coordinate volunteer programs that let you add a philanthropic mission to your time in the sun.

Tidy Up

Aruba is known as one happy island. And one thing that makes the locals happy is having a clean island. Visitors can help by participating in the Aruba Reef Care Project, which is the island’s largest single volunteer environmental initiative. Locals are joined by divers and snorkelers from around the globe, who sweep the shores to remove glass, plastics and other debris from a number of popular reefs and beaches. The annual event draws more than 800 participants. As an alternative, visitors who prefer to stay dry while doing good can volunteer at the Donkey Sanctuary, to help with the daily chores of feeding and caring for the animals. http://www.aruba.com/aruba-vacations/volunteer-vacations

Aruba Snorkeling

During the annual beach and coastal cleanup, volunteers scour the sands of Aruba’s beaches, some also don mask and snorkel or dive gear to hunt for submerged litter. Photo: iStock

Pooches in Paradise

Go beyond the beach resorts to discover the real Jamaica, and make some new canine friends in the process. Volunteers with the Animal Care Project spend time at an island shelter for abandoned dogs, assisting with everything from feeding, bathing and brushing the animals to walking them and providing love and play time. Participants typically spend mornings working with the rescued dogs, and have afternoons and weekends free to explore beaches, waterfalls and area villages. The shelter is located in St. Mary Parish, near the resort town of Ocho Rios. Volunteers stay in simple, comfortable dormitory-style accommodations, or have the option of staying with a local family. In addition to animal care, the program organizers also coordinate teaching, sports, and community development programs. www.volunteerhq.org

Jamaica Dogs

Headquartered near Ocho Rios, Jamaica’s Animal Care Project provides volunteers with a unique opportunity to combine an island vacation with a chance to work with rescued dogs. Photo: Lori Newman/Flickr

Restore the Shore

Even if cruise ships aren’t normally your thing, you might want to consider signing up for a sailing with the Fathom organization, which organizes cruises with cultural and philanthropic elements to destinations across the Caribbean. Most recently, Fathom has partnered with Princess Cruises to visit islands hard-hit by the 2017 hurricanes. Participants on these seven-day trips will come ashore to work with locals to rebuild in the storm-ravaged communities. In addition to special disaster relief trips, Fathom offers a broad range of cultural programs in Cuba and the Dominican Republic, and is currently working to expand to more islands. www.fathom.org

Cruising Caribbean

After the 2017 hurricanes, the Fathom volunteer organization created a number of special itineraries with Princess cruise lines, giving passengers a chance to participate in island rebuilding. Photo: Steve Hughes/Flickr

Be a Sport

If you love team sports, the Amigos de las Americanas program is a great way to give back while also engaging in your favorite pastimes. Participants sign up for immersive programs in the Dominican Republic, working with local community members to develop a youth sports league. Prior coaching experiences is a good thing, but not mandatory, as there are many skill sets needed to organize and run a league, both on and off the field. This four- week program was developed with the partner agency, Plan Dominican Republic, which helps place participants with a local host family. In addition to working with young athletes, the rewards include a chance to experience the country like a local, and opportunities to improve your Spanish through authentic cultural immersion. www.gooverseas.com

Dominican Republic Pargue Colon

Volunteers can participate in a number of educational and civic programs in the Dominican Republic, and immerse themselves in the nation’s rich culture and history. Photo: Getty Images

Monitor a Manatee

The coastal wetlands of Belize are one of the last unspoiled habitats for the West Indian Manatee. You can help ensure the survival of these large, gentle sea cows by joining a Wildlife Volunteer Adventure with Discover Corps. You’ll join marine biologists working to save the country’s endangered manatees, monitoring the health of the animals, taking environmental measurements and census counts. The program exposes participants to three different marine environments, including coastal mangrove lagoons, the Caribbean Sea and jungle rivers. Monitoring and counting activities take place in the mornings, leaving free time each afternoon to relax on white sand beaches, snorkel on coral reefs or explore the natural wonders of Belize. A highlight of each weeklong trip is a chance to visit the pristine ecosystems of the Port Honduras Marine Reserve. www.discovercorps.com

Belize Manatees

A group of manatees glide through shallow sea grass beds in the coastal waters of Belize. Though threatened elsewhere, these gentle mammals thrive in Belize’s marine preserves. Photo: David Harvey/Hamanasi Resort

Antigua Jolly Beach
Anguilla, Antigua & Barbuda, British Virgin Islands, Caribbean, Dominica, Plan, Puerto Rico, St. Barts, St. Martin/St. Maarten, Trip Ideas, U.S. Virgin Islands

The Caribbean Makes a Comeback

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In the fall of 2017, portions of the Caribbean received back-to-back blows from hurricanes Irma and Maria. These Category 5 storms did significant damage to some islands, while virtually sparing others. In the months following the storms, rebuilding efforts were underway on all islands affected.

News of these efforts was shared during the recent Caribbean Hotel & Tourism Association’s annual show. According to reports and updates, the region is not only repairing damage and restoring existing properties, but also undertaking a number of expansion projects and new builds.

In all, there are an expected 74 new builds planned. Airports are being expanded as they rebuild, and many of the islands are now receiving more incoming flights. Ferry services have returned, with some increases from both private and public ferry companies. The beaches are returning as sand comes in with the tides and on many islands life is returning to normal. Some areas and islands are still without full electrical power but expectations are to get back to 100 percent by early to mid 2018. Essentially the Caribbean is back and is still the paradise we all know and love.

Puerto Rico

In the aftermath of Hurricane Maria, Puerto Rico was very much in the news. The storm left widespread devastation, but though the Enchanted Island was down, it was far from out. Cruise ships made their first return to the Port of San Juan less than three weeks after the storm’s passing, and even without electricity, resilient shop owners were selling their wares to cruise passengers on a cash basis. The San Juan and Old San Juan tourism district spent two months recovering, with electricity and services returning week by week. By the December holiday season, a majority of the city was in business, with some 1,500 restaurants and most hotels. On the entire island 80 percent of the resorts are now open.

Puerto Rico is emerging renewed and revamped as many hotels are taking the time to renovate and add new rooms. There are still the isolated communities in the country without power, but expectations are that 95 percent of the island’s power will be restored by the end of February. Hardest hit are the eastern coast areas of Palmas del Mar and Humacao, which may take longer to recover. El Yunque rainforest was hit hard, but replanting is underway and some hiking trails have reopened. Visitors are also returning to the islands of Vieques and Culebra, which received minimal damage.

Puerto Rico San Juan Port

Cruise ships are once again docking in the Port of San Juan, and the shops and restaurants in the adjacent historic district of Old San Juan are open for business. Photo: Puerto Rico Tourism

USVI

The campaign slogan of the US Virgin Islands is “still nice”, and almost 100 percent electrical power has been restored to all three islands, the days of candles and bucket baths are over. St. Croix was spared major damage and most everything is up and running, with exception of a couple of the larger resorts. Most beaches recovered beautifully on all three islands and after a massive cleanup and rebuilding project, Magens Bay on St. Thomas is once again welcoming swimmers. Some of the larger hotels and resorts on St. Thomas and St. John were hit hard and will take time to recover. Most will be back in full operation by the end of 2018 or early 2019, renewed, renovated and in some cases with additional space. Island visitors now have the opportunity to get to know the locals by staying in small guesthouses, B & B and villas, and there is no shortage of these accommodations. On St. John the National Park trails and beaches are open. The shores are not yet as green as before the storm, but foliage is slowly coming back.

St. Croix Buccaneer

St. Croix’s landmark Buccaneer resort was spared from major storm damage from Irma and Maria, and was soon fully operational and welcoming guests. Photo: Steve Simonsen/The Buccaneer

Antigua & Barbuda

The big island of Antigua dodged the full force of Hurricane Irma, and returned to normal within 48 hours of the storm. Hotels, restaurants and bars are all open, and visitors who were already booked were able to come and enjoy vacations as planned. Unfortunately, the sister island of Barbuda was literally flattened by wind and waves, and for an already flat island of scrub and mangrove forests, the effects were devastating. The island’s 2,000 residents had to be evacuated and now live with friends and family on Antigua while their homes are being rebuilt. The potential silver lining is that new structures will be totally green and supplied by solar polar, which is a first in the islands. The storms didn’t scare away Robert DeNiro and plans are still on the books for his resort to be built on Barbuda. The islands continue to attract sailors from around the world with several sailing events throughout the year.

Antigua English Harbour

Sailboats ride at anchor in Antigua’s English Harbour. The island was not in the direct path of the storms, and suffered minimal damage from wind or waves. Photo: Stephen Robertson/iStock

Anguilla

An island that made a fast post-storm recovery is Anguilla. The airport was back open one week after Irma, and thanks to British and Canadian support, rebuilding and clean up moved quickly. Electricity was fully restored by mid December, so the island celebrated with Christmas lights and festivities. Many of the island’s five-star properties are now undergoing renovations and will open throughout the coming year. In the interim, the island has a number of small hotels and villas that are welcoming guests. The well-known Dune Preserve will need some time to rebuild, but all festivals are on, most favorite dining venues and beach bars are back in operation.

Anguilla Beach

The powder-fine sand shores of Anguilla were not severely affected by the hurricanes of 2017, and all of the island’s 33 public beaches are once again welcoming visitors. Photo: Anguilla Tourist Board

BVI

The British Virgin Islands was hit hard with back-to-back hurricanes and two floods. Maria held back some of its full force, but Irma made a direct hit on the islands. After the first hurricane, Puerto Rica sent ships with supplies to help the British Virgin Islands, but soon those ships and supplies were back on their way to Puerto Rico after Maria devastated that island. While some of the BVI’s lux resorts will take time to make their recoveries, there are several that are already up and running, including Scrub Island, Oil Nut Bay and Cooper Island. A number of smaller guesthouses and hotels are welcoming guests and crews from sailing yachts. Sailing, diving, fishing and other water sports operations are all back in business, and several charter yacht companies have expanded their fleets. The islands are rebuilding and also replanting palms, as some 6,000 coconut trees were gifted from the island of St. Vincent.

BVI The Baths

While a number of resorts in the British Virgin Islands suffered significant storm damage, iconic natural features such as the Baths of Virgin Gorda were spared. Photo: Robert Ingelhart/iStock

St. Martin/St. Maarten

The half Dutch, half French island is still rebuilding but open to visitors. The Princess Juliana airport is open and operative, using tents to receive passengers. A rebuilt terminal is scheduled to open by the end of 2018. All 37 beaches on the island are open. On the French side, Grand Case restaurants and shops are opening up on a daily basis; while the bars on the Dutch side are also back in business. Cell phone service is still spotty, but transportation services are fully operative. Both nations have a range of small hotels and guesthouses available as the larger properties rebuild. Large resorts like Oyster Bay and Sonesta on the Dutch side will be back in business by the end of 2018 or early 2019. On the French side, Grand Case and Belmond La Samanna plan on reopening by the forth quarter of 2018.

St. Maarten Great Bay

Cruise ships are once again docking at the port facilities in St. Martin’s Great Bay. Hotels around the bay are now in the process of rebuilding and reopening. Photo: Gerry Slabaugh/Flickr

Dominica

Maria did significant damage to most of the island’s buildings, including resorts. The island’s forests suffered significant wind damage, but by late fall, the Forestry & Wildlife Parks Division had reopened a number of natural attractions for tourism, including the Emerald Pool, Trafalgar Falls, Titou Gorge and Indian River. The 115-mile Waitukubuli National Trail is still being cleared and volunteers are working on restoring the path in the segments badly hit. Meanwhile, divers are working on restoring the coral reefs. The first cruise ship, the Sea Cloud II arrived December 28 and more are returning every month. Several small hotels and guesthouses are now receiving visitors and more are partially open. The Fort Young Hotel in Roseau renovated and opened a portion of its rooms. And as other hotels renovate and rebuild, there was news of a new resort near Portsmouth breaking ground. Power is still being restored on much of the island and many of the larger properties are being rebuilt and will open in mid 2018 or 2019.

Dominica Scotts Head

Dominica’s Scotts Head Marine Reserve is one of the best and calmest snorkeling spots on the west coast of the island. Efforts are still underway to restore and clean all of the island’s dive sites. Photo: Discover Dominica

St. Barts

This was one of the first islands to announce that it was back in business after hurricane Irma slammed the Caribbean. The entire island now has electricity and water service. Clean up efforts went smoothly and the beaches are more pristine and beautiful than ever. Guests will find plenty of villas and a handful of hotels available as the larger properties rebuild. Many of the lux properties will reopen in late 2018. Resorts like Eden Rock, which sits on a promontory over the ocean, and Le Toiny, which sits at the top of a hillside, were badly damaged but will also reopen near the end of 2018.

St. Barts

The beaches of St. Barts have recovered from passing storms, and a number of the island’s favorite resorts are now in the process of rebuilding and reopening. Photo: Saint Barth Tourisme

Panama Birds
Central America, Panama, Plan, Trip Ideas

Birds of Panama

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Panama is a bird watcher’s paradise. This Central American country lies at the heart of migratory routes between North and South America, and also harbors hundreds of native species. In fact, the world’s highest single-day species count was recorded in Panama, with more than 900 varieties of birds spotted. Here is a sampling of what you can find at the Canopy Lodge, Canopy Camp and Canopy Tower. This band-tailed barbthroat belongs to the hermit group of hummingbirds, which means that instead of bright iridescent plumage, it shows more subdued green and brown pattern.